1. Scientific Measurements on Hair & Skin
Professional Objective Diagnosis at
All Stages of the Treatment
Diana Khazaka, COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronic
Cologne, Germany
Beauty Eurasia, June 2007, Istanbul, Türkei

2. Introduction
The days are over when a dermatologist or the esthetician only looked at the skin to make a diagnosis and to decide about the following treatments and to recommend skin care products to use.
For almost 20 years now there is scientific equipment available to measure different parameters on the skin.
These kind of measurements are already standard for the cosmetic industry to do efficacy testing and claim support in their laboratories and also in dermatological research. Hundreds of studies prove their worldwide use.

3. Use of Skin Analysing Methods in the Field of Cosmetics
In R&D of the cosmetic companies to test the products in each state of the development for its efficacy and to support their claims
In independent testing laboratories to do the final documentation for the different products.
At the point of sale (retail area) to determine the customers skin type and to advice the best suitable products as a strong selling and promotional
instrument.

4. Objective Skin Measurement Parameters
Overview over
Objective Skin Measurement Parameters
Hydrolipidic Film of the Skin
Hydration
Sebum
pH-Value
Transepidermal Waterloss (TEWL)
Skin Color: Melanin & Erythema
Elasticity & Biological Age

5. Objective Skin Measurement Parameters
Overview over
Objective Skin Measurement Parameters
Elasticity & Direction of Fibers
Skin Roughness & Wrinkles
Skin Smoothness
Skin Thickness
Microcirculation
Desquamation
Sebum Production (Qualitative)
Skin Surface Stripping
UV-Spots

6. Information on the Skin
The Structure of the Skin
Epidermis
Dermis
Subcutis

7. Information on the Skin
The Hydrolipidic Film on the Skin Surface
Functions:
- consists of sebum and moisture
- protects the skin from drying out, UV
radiation
- keeps it supple
- prevents the penetration of harmful
external substances (e. g. germs) due to
the natural acid protection barrier
Stratum Corneum

8. External Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film
Information on the Skin
Sun exposure
Ambient conditions (temperature and r.H. / seasons/ climate)
Life Style (e.g. sports/ vacation/ food/ smoking and alcohol/ use of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, clothing)

9. Internal Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film
Information on the Skin
Internal Influences on the Hydrolipidic Film
Temperature regulation mechanisms
Body region
Age
Sex, race, genetic dispositions
Physical exercise and emotional state
Biorythm

10. Hydration of the Skin
Different for each body site, depending on the thickness of the stratum corneum and the number and activity of the sweat glands
The highest on the face and in the palms of the hands
On the extremities however, the hydration is much lower
Highly influenced by temperature and rel. humidity

11. Moisture Measurement and Skin Aging
The moisture content of the skin surface depend on the age
Of a person. A child’s skin moisture is very low,
that of an adult (between the age of years)
it is its maximum, while a senior’s skin moisture content
becomes lower again due to the decreasing storing
capacity of the Stratum corneum.
High
Medium
Low
Child Adult Senior

12. Measurement of Skin Hydration
Capacitance measurement, worldwide used as the standard
quick and easy measurement
small penetration depth to make sure to measure in the
very first layer of the skin
Constant but low pressure of the probe head provides
stable reproducible measurements
Small measuring head allows measurements on all body
sites

13. Oil/Sebum of the Skin
Sebacceous glands throughout the whole body but mainly in the face (T-zone), on the scalp, and on chest and back
Sebum in µg/cm²
200
100 10
T-Zone Cheek Chest/Back Hair Arms/Legs

14. Oil/Sebum of the Skin
Also the sebum content depends on the age of a person.
As sebum secretion is controlled by hormones, the skin
of a young child is dry whereas the skin of a teenager is oily.
With increasing age the sebum content decreases again.
Oily
Normal
Low
Child Teenager Adult Senior

15. Measurement of Skin Oil
Photometrical measurement, worldwide used as the standard
Measurement only sensitive to oil not to water
Quick and easy measurement
Constant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurements
Measurements on all body sites, even hair and scalp are possible

16. Information on the Skin
Each hydrolipidic film is an individual combination of moisture and sebum. Many customers are not aware of the fact that even though their skin feels oily it can be very dry (dehydrated at the same time).
Oil + -
Oily and dehydrated skin
Slightly dehydrated skin/oily
Very oily skin
Slightly dehydrated skin
Dehydra-ted skin
Optimal skin
Very dry skin
Slightly dehydrated skin/low oil
Low oil
Moisture

17. pH-Measurement The hydrolipidic film on
the skin which consists of moisture and sebum has a certain pH-value of 4.0 to 5.9 (in the acidic range). The pH-value varies for different age,
sex and body sites.

18. Skin Pigmentation
The production of melanin is the skin‘s main protection mechanism against harmful UV-radiation. The higher the pigmentation, the better the skin is protected against sunburn. With increasing age pigmentations spots show more.

19. Measurement of Skin Pigmentation & Redness
Easy, quick and economical measurement of even
slightest changes in skin color
Quick and easy measurement
Constant but low pressure of the probe head provides
stable reproducible measurements
Small measuring head allows measurements on all body sites

20. Elasticity & Biological Aging
Suction measurement, worldwide used as the standard (skin is drawn into the
aperture of the probe and released again)
Measurement of firmness and elasticity, thus providing the biological age of the skin
Quick and easy measurement
Constant but low pressure of the probe head provides stable reproducible measurements
Measurements on all body sites

21. Comparisons of Different Ages & Body Sites
Skin elasticity of a 50 year old (red) Compared to a 20 year old (blue)
The older the skin the less the the firmness (higher amplitude) and less elastic (not returning to the original position after the suction is released.
Elasticity and Firmeness at different skin sites:
under the eye (very low) at the temple (low) at the inner forearm (better)

22. Information on the Skin
Elasticity decreases with increasing age

23. TEWL-Index-Measurement
Skin is a barrier for the inside of the body to the outside environment.
It is in constant metabolism with the outside by water evaporating through the skin. Whenever even a slight damage happens to this barrier, increased transepidermal waterloss can be found. Thus this is an ideal parameter to quantify the barrier function of the skin.

24. Skin Temperature Measurement
The temperature of the skin is directly related to its microcirculation. The more circulated the skin is with blood the higher the temperature. Comparing the skin at well circulated areas (e.g. the side of the neck) to other areas (e.g. face or legs) give interesting results.

25. Camera Images with a special UV-light source
Very impressive images of the skin structure, dry skin, lines & wrinkles, desquamation, hair quality, dandruff, pigmentation underneath the surface, etc.

26. Comparison aged vs. yound skin Comparison dry vs. normal skin
Camera Images with special UV-light
Comparison aged vs. yound skin
Comparison dry vs. normal skin

27. Camera Images with special UV-light
Craw feet
Impurities
Spots/Lentigo

28. Camera Images with special UV-light
Hair ends
Dandruff
Nail

29. Colored camera images
Very impressive images the skin structure, spots, pores, lines & wrinkles, hair, rednesses, scars, etc.

30. Special Tapes Tapes to show the sebum production (qualititatively)
and the desquamation (dryness)
of the skin with the adhesive tape
especially well visible with the Visioscope cameras. The oil production can be monitored live in real time.

31. Full Photography To look at: Spots on the colored image Pores
Lines & wrinkles
“UV- like”- image for educational purpose.

32. Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments with Important Measurements in the Esthetic Field

33. pigmentation for sun screen recommendation on a scale from 0-99
Example for Complete and Easy to Use Instruments with Important Measurements in the Esthetic Field
measures:
sebum on skin & hair
moisture
elasticity
pigmentation for sun screen recommendation
on a scale from 0-99
In addition the camera images can be seen on the built-in monitor.

34. How to use the Measurement Methods in the Esthetic Practice
Patient anamnesis:
Visual, questionnaire & scientific
skin measurements:
What is the skin type?
Which treatments should be done
according to the individual skin
type?
After the treatment:
Show short term effects
Determine future treatments

35. How to use the Measurement Methods in the Esthetic Practice
Very important:
Put together a set of products for the customer to use at home (cleansing, day care, night care, additional care) for the individual skin type of the patient.
For the next session check changes in the skin according to the use of products.
Make the customer a regular customer!

36. Benefits for the Customer:
Using a unique service and knowing exactly the actual state of the skin (very impressive and convincing)
Seeing the necessity and the efficacy of treatments
Advice of a complete care system for their individual skin
Feeling well served and are likely becoming regular customer

37. Thank you for listening
and Greetings from
Cologne, Germany