1. Haircolor vs Hair Color
Chapter 19

2. A hair colorist needs to become an expert in:
Enhancing natural hair color
Blending or covering gray
Lightening natural hair color
Depositing color on previously colored hair (corrective)
Depositing color on hair that has been lightened (corrective)
Creating dimensional color

3. Why do people color their hair?
Cover or blend gray
Enhance existing haircolor
Create a fashion statement of self- expression
Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure such as sun or chlorine
Accentuate a particular haircut

4. Hair facts
The structure of the client’s hair and the desired results determined which haircolor to use
The hair structure affects the quality and ultimate success of haircolor service
Some haircolor products may cause a dramatic change in the structure of the hair, while others cause little change or can help repair
You must know how the products will affect the hair in order to make the best choice for your client

5. Hair structure: TEXTURE & how it effects haircolor
Texture: melanin is distributed differently according to the texture
Melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker
Medium texture hair has an average reaction to haircolor
Coarse hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process

6. Hair structure: Density & how it effects haircolor
Density must be taken into account when applying haircolor to ensure proper coverage
Density also determines the quantity of color or number of ounces that must be mixed

7. Hair structure: Porosity & how it effects haircolor
Porous hair accepts haircolor faster, but it may also “bleed-out” faster
Low porosity means the hair is resistant and it is difficult for the moisture of chemicals to penetrate and may require a longer processing time
Average porosity should take an average amount of processing time and produce the best results
High porosity means that the hair is overly porous and takes color quickly and fades quickly – requires preconditioning or use of a filler

8. Porosity Test
Take a strand of sever hairs, hold the strand securely with one hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp
If the hair feels smooth it has low porosity
If the hair feels slightly rough it is average
If the hair feels rough is has high porosity

9. Hair color Hair color is natural color Haircolor is artificial color
Learning to identify a client’s natural hair color is the most important step to becoming a good colorist

10. Hair color & Haircolor Are based on a level system # 1-10
Some manufacturers go as high as 12, however if you are talking about hair color it will always be based on 1-10

11. Melanin All hair has both eumelanin and pheomelanin
Eumelanin is black / brown
Pheomelanin is blond / red

12. Contributing Pigment Is also called the UNDERTONE
It lies under the natural hair color and must be taken into consideration when you select a haircolor
When you lighten hair you expose the contributing pigment

13. Level system
Unit of measurement used to identify lightness or darkness of a color
Level is the saturation of density of a color
Color names may vary from manufacturer to manufacture however the degree of lightness and darkness in each level will remain the same

14. Tone Hue of color or the balance of the color
Tones are described as warm or cool
Any level can have different tones
Warm tones = gold, copper, auburn, burnt orange
Cool tones= platinum, ash, drab, blue

15. How to read a haircolor box
The number is the level 1-10
The letters mean:
n= neutral
r = red
rb = red brown
rv = redviolet
ro = redorange
a= ash
p = pearl / platinum
g = gold
k = kopper
b= beige
gn = goldneutal
#’s 11 & 12 are always considered high lift series and act more like bleach or hair lightener with some of the benefits of haircolor

16. To determine natural level and tone
Take a ½ in square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp – allowing light to pass through
Using a natural level finder, select the swatch that matches the section of hair, place it up against the hair, you are trying to determine depth level – how light or dark not tone
Move the swatch along the hair strand to determine the natural level

17. Base color Is the predominant tone of a color
Example: a haircolor with a violet base color will deliver cool results and help minimize unwanted yellow tones / or a red-orange base will create the bright warm results that some clients are looking for

18. Law of color Primary colors: Red – Blue – Yellow
These colors can not be achieved from mixing any other colors
Secondary colors:
Green – Orange – Violet
These colors are achieved by mixing two primary colors together in equal parts

19. Law of color continued Tertiary colors
Redorange – redviolet – yelloworange – yellowgreen – bluegreen – blueviolet
These are created by mixing a primary with a neighboring secondary and always carry the primary colors name first
Complimentary colors are those colors opposite each other on the color wheel that cancel each other out
example: Red + Green = Brown (Neutral)

20. Types of Haircolor 2 categories: nonoxidative & oxidative
Nonoxidative: temporary & semi-permanent
Oxidative: demi-permanent & permanent
Lighteners have a unique chemical property and falls into its own category

21. Temporary haircolor Used to neutralize an unwanted tone
Uses large pigment molecules and does not penetrate the cuticle layer, only allows a coating action
Only make a physical change not a chemical change
Only last from shampoo to shampoo
Color rinses, color mousses or gel, hair mascara, spray on color, color enhancing shampoos

22. Semipermanent Last several shampoos depending on the hair’s porosity
Pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate and stain the cuticle layer
Last 4-6 weeks and fades with each shampoo
It is not mixed with peroxide
Used right out of the bottle

23. Demipermanent Also called deposit only Is an oxidative tint
Able to deposit but not lift
Many use alkalizing agents other than traditional ammonia however that does not necessary make them any less damaging
Great for blending gray hair or a first time color client
Less line of demarcation
Refreshing faded ends
Color correction or restoring natural hair color

24. Permanent
Can lighten and deposit haircolor at the same time in a single process
They are more alkaline than deposit only
Mixed with different volume developers
Used to cover gray hair w/ 20vol developer

25. Natural & metallic haircolors
Are NOT considered professional
They coat the hairshaft
Shade ranges are limited
If this client was to come to the salon they would be upset to find out that out professional products can NOT be applied over these “natural” haircolors

26. Hydrogen peroxide H2O2 Often referred to as developer
Is an oxidizing agent – that supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color
Volume measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide
Lower the volume – less lift, Higher the volume – more lift
20 volume is used with permanent haircolor to cover gray hair

27. Lighteners
Lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment
As soon as H2O2 is mixed with lightener, it begins to release oxygen
Oxidation occurs within the cortex of the hair
Used to create a light blond shade that is not achievable with permanent haircolor

28. Decolorizing process 7 stages of lightening
The amount of change depends on:
1- the amount of natural pigment in the hair
2- the strength of the lightening product
3 – length of time product is processed
Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result
Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to a controlled final haircoloring result

29. CAUTION
Lightening dark hair to a very pale blond is difficult without extreme damage to the hair
Giving hair a white appearance usually will cause the hair to feel “mushy” and will stretch without returning to its original length
When the hair is dry is feels brittle and harsh
This type of hair often suffers breakage and has difficulty accepting a toner properly

30. Toners
Are semipermanent or demipermanent haircolor products that are used on prelightened hair to achieve the desired color after the decolorizing process

31. Consultation Is the most critical part of the haircoloring service
Hold the consultation in an area with proper lighting
If possible the walls should be a neutral color
Allow at least 15 minutes
Have a client fill out a client information card and release statement
Ask leading questions:
are you looking for a temporary or permanent change?
do you want color all over or just a few highlights?
do you see yourself as conservative or dramatic?

32. Consultation Continued
Recommend at least two different color options
Review the procedure, application technique, cost of service, and follow-up maintenance
Be honest, let the client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve the final results
Fill out the client’s record card with detailed notes
Avoid negative words – bleached, frosted, roots

33. CAUTION Medications can affect hair color
In the consultation determine if the client is taking any medication
Usually medications for diabetes, high blood pressure, and thyroid problems will affect the outcome of color and most chemical services

34. Selecting Haircolor
There are four basic questions that must always be asked when formulating a haircolor:
1. What is the natural level and does it include gray hair
2. What is the client’s desired level and tone?
3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be revealed?
4. What colors should be mixed to get the desired result?

35. Selecting haircolor
Always remember to formulate with both lift and deposit in mind
A higher lift formula may not have enough deposit to cancel the warmth of a client’s natural contributing pigment
The volume of hydrogen peroxide mixed with the haircolor product will also influence the lift and deposit

36. Mixing permanent colors
Method of mixing is determined by the type of application that you are using as well as the consistency of the product
Applicator bottle – should be large enough to hold both color and developer with enough airspace to shake the bottle and blend the mixture thoroughly
Brush and Bowl – use a nonmetallic mixing bowl, measure in developer, add color and use applicator brush to stir the mixture until blended

37. Color developer ratio
1:1 means for every one part of developer you use one part color
2:1 means for every two parts of developer your use one part color
2:1 is usually only used for high lift color, and should never be used for gray coverage

38. Patch test Used to determine clients allergies or sensitivities
Also called a predisposition test
Given 24 to 48 hours prior to haircolor application
The color used for the patch test must be the same mixture used to color the hair
Mix a small amount of the color to be used and apply it to a small area either behind the ear or in the fold of the elbow, leave undisturbed for 24 – 48 hours. If there is no swelling or redness then the test is negative a your can proceed with the haircoloring service

39. CAUTION
Operator dermatitis or toxicity is the build up of chemicals in the operators system due to not using gloves and repeatedly being exposed to chemicals throughout the day

40. Strand Test
Once you have created a formula try it first on a small strand of hair
This test will tell you how the hair will react to the formula that you have chosen

41. Hair color application - Temporary
Drape client
Shampoo and towel dry hair
Put on gloves
Use an applicator bottle
Apply color and work around the entire head
Blend color with comb
DO NOT rinse hair
Towel blot and proceed with styling

42. Single process Lightens and deposits color in a single application
Examples are virgin application and retouch application
As the hair grows in you will need to retouch the new growth to avoid a two toned effect
Line of demarcation is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth

43. Single Process – Virgin Application
Virgin application is applied first to the area where the color change will be greatest or where the hair is most resistant, usually the temples or hairline
Section the hair into quadrants
Lift a ¼ subsection and apply color to the mid-shaft area stay ½ inch away from the scalp and stop before porous ends
Go back an apply color to the scalp
Pull the color through the ends of the hair
After checking results, shampoo with warm water
Remove any stains around the hairline
Condition
Towel dry and style

44. Single Process – Retouch application
Section hair into quadrants
Apply color to the new growth are using ¼ inch partings
Complete all four sides and set timer for manf. Suggested processing time
Prepare a no-lift deposit only glaze formula to be applied mid shaft to ends
Apply the glaze from the line where the retouch application ends to the ends of the hair
Check results
Shampoo, condition, and style

45. Double process haircolor
This process is used for hair that has to be prelightened because the desired result is a dramatically lighter color
Decolorize with a lightener and then use a separate product to deposit the desired tone
Because the lightening action and the deposit of color are independent of each other, a wider range of haircolor is possible
During the prelightening you can create a perfect foundation for a longer –lasting color that will be true to tone
The prelightener is applied in the same manner as a regular hair lightening treatment, shampooed, and then the demipermanent color is applied from scalp to ends

46. Lighteners 3 forms: oil, cream and powder
Oil and cream are considered on the scalp lighteners
Powder is considered off the scalp lightener
Cream and oil are the most popular because they are easy to apply and are mild on the hair
Cream and oil can also be used to professionally lighten dark facial or body hair

47. Cream lighteners features and benefits:
Conditioning agents give some protection to the hair and scalp
Thickeners give more control during application process
Because cream lighteners do not run or drip overlapping is prevented during retouching services

48. Powder lighteners: Strong Fast acting Stronger than cream
Can cause scalp irritation and should not be applied directly to the scalp
Contain persulfate salts for quicker stronger action
Tend to dry out quickly
Most powder lighteners expand and spread out during processing and should NOT be used for retouch services

49. Processing time for lightening is affected by the following:
The darker the natural hair color, the more melanin it has , the longer it takes to lighten
Amount of time needed is influenced by porosity
Tone influences time to lighten natural hair, the greater the % of red the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate shades of pale blond
Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the level and the tone of the hair
The strength of the product affects the speed and amount of lightening
Heat leads to faster lightening, but can be more damaging to hair

50. CAUTION
Powder lighteners are used exclusively for off the scalp applications
This means never directly on the scalp, can be used on the shaft, ends, in foils, in film, baliage, or with a highlighting cap
Heat used with lighteners causes the cuticle to crack and break, therefore extreme caution must be used

51. Lightener retouch Mixture is only applied to new growth
Overlapping can cause severe breakage and lines of demarcation
Never overlap

52. Lightening virgin hair application
Divide the hair into four quadrants
Place cotton in all four sections to protect the scalp
Apply lightener ½ inch away from the scalp working the lightener through the mid- strand and up to the porous ends
Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parting to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair
Complete all four sections in this manner
Add more lightener if necessary
Do NOT comb the lightener through the hair
Keep the lightener moist during development
Take a strand test
Once desired level is reached apply the lightener to the scalp
Then apply to the porous ends
Rinse thoroughly with warm water
Shampoo gently – hair is fragile
Condition hair
Tone if necessary

53. Toners Primarily used on prelightened hair to achieve desired color
Your speed and accuracy are both important factors in the application and will determine whether you get good color results

54. Special effects haircoloring
Refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring
Highlighting – coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades
Lowlighting or reverse highlighting – technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color

55. 3 basic methods of highlighting:
Cap
Foil
Baliage or free form technique

56. Cap highlighting Previously referred to as “frosting” or “tipping”
Pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook
Number of strands pulled through will determine the noticeable results

57. Foil technique (Film, Paper)
Coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections and isolating them on foil or a foil alternative
Placing foils is an art and takes much practice and discipline
Slicing is taking a 1/8 inch parting by making a straight part at the scalp
Weaving is selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb

58. Baliage Also spelled Balyage
Is the painting of a lightener directly onto clean styled hair
The lightener is applied with an applicator brush or a tail comb from the scalp to the ends around the head
Effects are extremely subtle and are used to draw attention to the surface of the hair

59. Color correction
The use of a toner may be used to cancel out any undesirable yellow contributing pigment
A toner could but not always add a slight amount of lift or “bump” to the natural hair surrounding the prelightened hair – to avoid this use a color that does not require a developer

60. Highlighting shampoo Are a mixture of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide
They cause the natural color to be lifted slightly

61. Gray hair challenges & solutions
Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough
Gray hair can get a yellow cast from smoking, medication, sun exposure, and some styling products – this can often be solved by washing with a violet based shampoo
Gray hair accepts the level of color that is applied except when the level is 8 or higher because there is a low concentration of dye found in the higher numbers

62. Gray hair challenges and solutions
Use 20 volume developer
Process for 45 minutes
Add ½ to 1 ounce of natural/ warm tone to the formula for resistant gray hair
High lift blond is not designed for gray coverage
Presoften – raises the cuticle of resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color

63. Rules for effective color correction:
Do not panic – remain calm
Determine the nature of the problem
Determine what caused the problem
Develop a solution
Always take one step at a time
Never guarantee an exact result
Always strand test for accuracy

64. Damaged hair
Hair is damaged when it has one ore more of the following characteristics:
1- rough texture
2- overporous condition
3- brittle and dry to the touch
4 – susceptible to breakage
5- becomes spongy and matted when wet
6 – color fades too quickly or grabs too dark

65. Tips for dealing with damaged hair:
Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein, oils and moisture-rich ingredients
Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH with an acidic finishing rinse, this will restore the ability of the cuticle to protect the internal hair
Postpone any further chemical services until the hair is reconditioned
Schedule the client for between-service conditionings
Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for the next service

66. Fillers Equalize porosity
Color filler equalize porosity and deposit color in one application
Two type of fillers: color fillers or conditioner fillers
Help hair to accept color evenly

67. Selecting the correct color filler
All three primary colors must be present to produce a haircolor that looks natural
To correct an unwanted haircolor, always use the primary or secondary color that is missing in the hair
Example: orange blond hair can be corrected to a natural blond by adding the missing primary color blue, blue cancels orange
A primary color always cancels a secondary color and a secondary color always cancels a primary color

68. Tips for redheads Fading is a common problem with redheads
It is important to recommend the proper at home products for redheads
To create warm coppery reds use a red orange base color
To create hot fiery reds use red-violet or a true red color
Always use a no-lift deposit only color to refresh the shaft and ends
If gray hair is present, always add ½ to 1oz of a neutral color or it will be pink

69. Tips for Brunettes
To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color always use a cool blue base
To avoid brassy tones do not lighten more than two levels above the natural tone
Add 1oz of a neutral color to cover gray in a brunette
Natural highlights should be deep or caramel color – blond is too much contrast with brunette, it does not look natural and requires frequent touch-ups

70. Tips for blonds Is popular, profitable and find
When lightening keep in mind the undertones that will be exposed
When covering gray hair use a level 7 or darker for best coverage
Double process is the best way to obtain pale blond results
If a high light blond that only lifts 5 levels is used on a level 4 and below the result will be warm and brassy
If highlights become too blond or all one color, lowlights or deeper strands needed to be foiled in to create a more natural look

71. Common haircolor solutions
Green cast – usually caused by copper build –up in pipes, attaches itself to blond hair, can be washed away with a clarifying shampoo (it is not chlorine that causes this)
Green cast – in a brunette, color formulation was incorrect and used a green based color. Tone with a gold, copper or neutral to cast out green tone

72. Overall hair color is too light
To correct apply a no-lift deposit only hair color two shades darker than the previous formula

73. Overall color is too dark
Determine how much color needs to be removed
Use an oxidizing haircolor remover
Process for 10 minutes and check
These are specially formulated to remove oxidative tints from the hair
Wash and tone to new desired color

74. Restoring hair to natural hair color
Is called a tint-back
When dealing with a blond – first soften the new growth with a level 6 violet base color with 20 volume for 30 minutes, rinse, apply a no lift glaze with 1 oz of level 8 light natural blond and 1oz of level 9 red-orange, do not apply to scalp but rest of head, process for 20 minutes, rinse, then mix a no lift glaze with 2 oz of level 6 neutral apply for 20 minutes checking every 5, rinse, shampoo, condition, and style

75. Safety precautions Perform a patch test
Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present
Do not apply haircolor if a metallic hair color is present
Do not brush the hair prior to applying color
Always read and follow the man. directions
Use sanitized applicator bottle, brushes, combs, and towels
Protect your client’s clothing
Perform a strand test
Do not mix color until you are ready to use it
Discard all left overs
Wear gloves
Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch
Use a shampoo made for chemically treated hair
Always wash hands before and after each client