1. Hairstyling
Chapter 15

2. Hairstyling
The art of hairstyling or dressing the hair has always had a direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the times
A person’s hairstyle often reflects the period in which they live
Historical and technical knowledge of hairstyling will prepare you for the constant cyclical changes of fashion
By learning basic styling techniques, you will be able and ready to create endless styles to keep clients happy

3. Wet Hairstyling Tools:
Combs –
Brushes
Rollers
Clips – duckbill, sectioning, double prong
Pins – bobby or hair
Clamps – butterfly clips

4. Finger waving
Is the process of shaping and directing hair into an “S” pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion
Was the rage in the 1920’s

5. Waving lotion
Is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger waving process
Traditionally made from karaya gum an ingredient found in trees in India and Africa
A good waving lotion is harmless to the hair and does not flake when dry
If you use too much the hair will be too wet and dripping

6. Finding the natural part
Comb wet hair straight back from the hairline
Push the hair gently forward with the palm of the hand
Use your comb and other hand to separate the hair where it parts

7. Horizontal finger waving
Part hair
Apply waving lotion
Shape the hair into a S or C shaping
Place index finger of your left hand directly above the position for the first ridge, with the teeth of the comb pointing slightly upward insert the comb directly under the index finger, draw the comb forward about 1 inch
Flatten the comb against the head to hold ridge in place
Remove your left hand and place your middle finger above the ridge with your index finger on the teeth of the comb
Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and applying pressure – do not push or over direct
Turn the teeth downward and comb the hair in a semicircular direction opposite the slide
Continue this procedure until all sections are complete

8. Pin Curls
Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, line waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles
Can be used on all types of hair
Work best when the hair is layered and smoothly wound
Have three basic parts: base, stem, and circle

9. 3 Basic Parts of a
Pin Curl

10. Base
stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl which is the area closest to the scalp 10

11. Stem
section of the curl between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle that gives the curl its direction and movement 11

12. Circle
part of the curl that forms a complete circle, size of circle determines the width of the wave and its strength 12

13. Mobility of a curl
The stem is what determines the mobility or movement of the curl
There are 3 classifications of curl mobility:
no-stem curl
half-stem curl
full-stem curl

14. placed directly on the base of the curl
No Stem
placed directly on the base of the curl
produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl
allows minimum mobility

15. circle is placed half off the base gives good control to the hair
Half Stem
medium movement
circle is placed half off the base
gives good control to the hair 15

16. Full Stem greatest mobility curl is placed completely off the base
base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or rectangular
Gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit, if it is exaggerated the hair near the scalp will be flat
this curl is used to give hair a strong definite direction

17. Shaping
A section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls
Are either open ended or closed ended
Always begin a pin curl at the open end or convex side of a shaping

18. Open / Closed Center Curls
Open center curls produce even smooth waves and uniform curls
Closed center curls produce waves that get smaller in size toward the end. They are good for fine hair, if a fluffy curl is desired

19. Open Center / Closed Center

20. Stem and Direction
Curls may be turned toward the face, away from the face, upward, downward, or diagonally
Terms clockwise and counterclockwise are used to describe the direction of a pin curl

21. Bases / Foundations Most common is half-moon or C shaping
To avoid splits in the finished hairstyle you must use care when selecting and forming the curl base
Each curl must lie flat and smooth on its base
The shape of the base does not affect the finished curl

22. Rectangular Base usually recommended at the side front hairline
for a smooth effect and to avoid splits in the comb-out the pin curls must overlap

23. Triangular Base
recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits 23

24. Arc Base / C shape / Half Moon
are carved out of a shaping
give good direction and may be used at the hairline or in the nape 24

25. Square Bases suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift
can be used on any part of the head
to avoid splits stagger the sections 25

26. Pin curl techniques
Ribboning: involves forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension

27. Carved Curls
those curls that are sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head 27

28. Wave
To create a wave effect use two rows of pin curls set one row clockwise and one counter clockwise

29. Ridge Curls
Are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a finger wave 29

30. Skip Waves Are two rows of ridge curls usually on the side of the head30

31. Pin curl procedure Form C shaping
Slice a strand to create the first curl
Point your left index finger down and hold the strand in place
Ribbon the strand
Wind the curl forward keeping the ends inside the center of the curl
Hold the curl in the shaping and anchor it with a clip

32. Pin Curl Procedure

33. Anchoring pins
To anchor pin curls start at the open end of the curl – this is the side opposite the stem
The clip should enter the circle parallel to the stem
To avoid a dent in the curl avoid pinning across the circle
If clips touch the skin place cotton under them before placing client under the dryer

34. Stand up Curls used to create height
they are fastened to the head in a standing position to allow hair to flow upward and then downward
size of the curl determines the amount of height in the comb-out

35. Barrel Curls
have a large center opening and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base
is similar to a roller but does not have the same tension as a roller when it is set 35

36. Roller Curls Advantages
Use to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls
Roller holds the equivalent of two to four stand-up curls
Faster way to set hair
Hair is wrapped around the roller with tension which gives a longer-lasting effect
Come in variety of shapes and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for styles

37. ROLLERS

38. Parts of a Roller Curl
Base: panel of hair on which the roller is placed. Base should be same length and width as the roller. The type of base does effect the volume
Stem: hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller, stem gives hair direction and mobility
Curl: or circle, the hair that is wrapped around the roller, determines the size of the wave or curl

39. 3 Parts of a roller curl

40. Choosing your roller size
Relationship between the length of the hair and the size of the roller will determine the results
C shape, Wave, or Curl

41. C Shape
One complete turn around the roller 41

42. Wave
One and a half turns 42

43. Curl
Two and a half turns 43

44. Roller Placement
The size of the roller and how it sits on its base will determine the volume achieved
General rule – larger the roller the greater the volume
There are three basic roller placements or bases: On Base, Half Base, Off Base
Special roller placement is indentation

45. On Base For full volume the roller is placed directly on its base
Over direct (higher than 90 degrees) the strand slightly in front of the base and then roll the hair down to the base

46. Half Base For medium volume
The roller sits halfway on its base, and halfway behind its base.
Hold the strand straight up from the head (90 degrees) and roll the hair down 46

47. OFF BASE Least volume The roller sits completely off the base
Hold the strand 45% down from the base and roll the hair down 47

48. Indentation
Placement of rollers on the head usually follows the movement of the finished style
is the point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area, this is often found in a flip style

49. Hot Rollers To be used only on dry hair
They are heated either electrically or by steam
Allow the rollers to set in the hair for approximately 10 minutes
A thermal protector should be sprayed on the hair prior to setting
The result curl is less strong than a wet set curl but longer lasting than a curling iron curl

50. Velcro Rollers
Are not allowed by some state boards because of the difficulty of sanitizing them properly
Used only on dry hair, using them on wet hair will snag and tear the hair
Often used after a blow-out to reinforce a curl of wave
No clipping is necessary the Velcro fabric grips the hair and holds itself in place
Mist entire head with hairspray, dry under a hood dryer for 5 – 10 minutes

51. Comb-Out Techniques
Back combing – also called back brushing, teasing, ratting, matting,ruffing or french lacing
Best way to increase volume and remove indentations caused by roller setting
Involves combing small sections of hair from the ends towards the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base
During the 1950’s and 60’s back brushing would allow a client to wear their hair in their style for an entire week
Teasing hair is a necessity for a good updo

52. Back combing procedure
Section hair, pick up a section no more than 1 inch thick and 2 to 3 inches wide
Insert comb using fine teeth at a depth of about 1 ½ inches from the scalp
Press the comb down gently to the scalp repeat this process until desired volume is achieved
Create a cushion by firmly pushing the hair down to the scalp
Smooth the hair so as not to see the packing or cushioning at the scalp

53. Backcombing

54. Hair Wrapping
Useful to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape
Wrap hair around the head using the head to contour the hair
Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair
On overly curly hair press it first and then do a dry hair wrapping
Apply a silicone shine product before wrapping for a glossy comb out
For extra protection stretch a neck strip around the head so that it overlaps at the ends
The longer the hair is wrapped the smoother it will be

55. Hair Wrapping

56. Blow-dry styling
Technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation
The impression of the client’s haircut will be determined by the quality of the blow-dry

57. Tools for blow-dry styling
Blow-dryer – and electrical appliance designed for drying and styling hair
Its main parts are handle, slotted nozzle, small fan, heating element, speed and heat controls, and cool shot button
Temperature control switch helps to produce a steady stream of air at the desired temperature
Concentrator is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of air
Diffuser is an attachment that causes the air to flow more softly and help to accentuate or keep textural (curl) definition

58. Blow-dryer tips
To keep blow-dryer safe and effective keep it clean and free of dirt, oil, and hair
The air intake at the back of the dryer must also be kept clear at all times
Dropping a blow-dryer can damage the fan or heating element
Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one place, keep it in motion at all times
Always direct the hot air away from the client’s scalp to avoid burns
Direct it from the scalp towards the ends to seal the cuticle so the hair is smooth and shiny

59. Tools for styling hair
Picks and combs: designed to distribute and part the hair, they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, hard rubber combs should always be used with thermal tools
Brushes: choose one based on the length, texture, and styling needs of the hair that you are working with

60. Brushes

61. Combs

62. Classic Styling Brush
half round rubber based typically have with seven or nine rows of round tipped nylon bristles
heat resistant and antistatic
used where little volume is desired 62

63. Paddle Brush
large, flat base are well suited for mid to longer length hair
usually with ball tipped nylon pins 63

64. Grooming Brush usually oval with a mixture of boar and nylon bristles
boar helps to distribute scalp oils throughout hair shaft 64

65. Vent Brush ventilated design, used to speed up the blow drying process
great for adding volume and lift at the scalp 65

66. Round Brush Come in various diameters
usually natural bristles, smaller brush gives more curl
used to lift hair at scalp and add volume
metal cylinders bases act as electric roller
use the cool shot button to “set” the shape

67. Teasing Brush
thin nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning along with a narrow row of bristles 67

68. Tools for styling continued…
Styling product: are thought of a “liquid tools” with so many products on the market a stylist needs to consider the following:
1.How long does the style need to hold?
2.What are the environmental
conditions, humidity, wind, sun?
3.Type of hair, straight, curly?
4.Amount of support desired, using it on fine or coarse hair?

69. Mousse light airy whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam
It builds moderate body and volume into the hair
good for fine hair will not weigh it down
great for blowouts needing volume & roller sets

70. Gel thickened styling preparation that comes in a tube or bottle
create the strongest control for slicked or molded styles
firm hold may overwhelm fine hair

71. Liquid Gel / Texturizer
lighter and usually a more liquid in form, add volume and body to the hair 71

72. Straightening Gel / Serum
is applied to hair ranging from wavy to extremely curly and creates a smooth straight look that will hold in a variety of weather conditions, this is temporary and will only last from shampoo to shampoo

73. Volumizers
add volume to the hair, usually have a drying effect on the hair and should only be sprayed on close to the roots 73

74. Pomade / Wax
add considerable weight to the hair by causing the strands to join together
showing separation in the hair, makes dry hair easy to mold
should be used sparingly on fine hair
excellent on short hair
check ingredients and avoid all products with petroleum and mineral oil 74

75. Silicone
adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural definition
nonoily silicones are best to add at the end for extra shine
spray formulas are useful for fine hair so they do not add weight 75

76. Hairspray / Finishing Mist
mist or aerosol formula used to hold hair in place
available in a variety of holding strengths 76

77. Thermal Hairstyling aka Marcel waving / thermal curling
Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hair
Electrical or stove heated
Made of quality steel to provide even heat controlled by the stylist
Stove irons are capable of higher heat settings preferred w/extremely curly hair

78. Thermal Iron 4 basic parts
Rod handle
Shell handle
Barrel or rod (cylinder)
Shell

79. Flat Iron
Have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ inch to 3 inches across
Straight edges used to create straight styles
Beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or curl the ends
best are made from full ceramic not coated plates
titanium, tourmaline ceramic, nano

80. Testing Thermal Irons
Test it on a piece of tissue paper or a damp towel
Clamp the iron on the material and hold for 5 seconds
If it scorches or turns brown the iron is too hot

81. Care of thermal irons
To remove dirt, oils and product residue, dampen a towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia
Do not immerse the barrel in the solutions
Do not do this when your iron is on
Do not do this when your iron is hot
Premixed solutions

82. Manipulating thermal irons
Grasp the iron in your right hand far enough away from the joint to avoid the heat
Place your three middle fingers on the back of the lower handle, your little finder in front of the lower handle and your thumb in front of the upper handle
Practice rolling a cold iron until you are comfortable

83. Manipulating thermal irons

84. Temperature There is no single correct temperature used for the iron
Depends mainly on the texture of the hair
Hair that has been lightened or tinted as well as white hair should be treated with gentle heat
Coarse hair can withstand a greater temperature

85. Types of curls
Barrel curl – good for short hair (can be volume based, full based, half based, or off base)
Figure 6 curl – good for medium hair
Figure 8 curl – good for long hair
Spiral curl – curling hair by winding it around the rod, inserted at an angle
End curls – finished appearance to hair ends, can be turned either under or over

86. End Curls

87. Barrel Curl

88. Figure 6 Curl

89. Figure 8 Curl

90. Curl Placement
Volume Curl
On Base
Slightly Off Base
Off Base

91. Safety for thermal irons
Keep clean
Do not overheat, this can cause the ability of the iron to hold heat uniformly
Test temperature
Handle thermal irons carefully
Place hot irons in a safe place to cool
When heating conventional irons do not place the handles too close to the stove
Make sure that iron is properly balanced in the stove to avoid injury
Use only hard rubber combs
Do not use metal combs they can burn the scalp
Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curling
The client’s hair must be clean and dry to endure a good result
Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this will cause fishhooks
When ironing lightened, tinted or relaxed hair always use gentle heat

92. Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)
Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated comb
Generally lasts from shampoo to shampoo
A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural and lustrous condition, and is not harmful to the hair
There are 3 basic types of pressing: soft, medium, and hard

93. Hair pressing
Soft Press: removes about 50-60% of the curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hair
Medium press: removes about % of the curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hair but using more pressure
Hard press: removes 100% of curl, apply thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair

94. Hair and Scalp Analysis
Under no circumstances should hair pressing be given to a client who has a scalp abrasion or a contagious scalp condition, or chemically damaged hair
Chemically relaxed hair should not be pressed
If hair condition is not optimal suggest a series of reconditioning treatments prior to pressing
A tight scalp can be made more flexible by scalp massage or brushing

95. Pressing Comb 2 basic types: regular and electric
Constructed of good quality stainless steel or brass
Handle is usually made of wood since wood does not readily absorb heat
A comb with more space between the teeth produces a coarse or open looking press, while a comb with less space produces a smoother press

96. Tempering Allows the brass to hold heat evenly
You must burn off any polish the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb, if the polish is not burned off the comb may stick to the hair causing scorching and breakage
To temper a new comb –
1.heat until extremely hot
2.coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil
3.let it cool naturally
4.rinse w/ hot running water to remove oil 96

97. Cleaning Pressing Comb
Will perform more efficiently if it is kept clean
Remove the carbon by rubbing the outside surface and between the teeth with a fine steel wool pad or fine sandpaper
Then place the metal portion of the comb in a hot baking soda solution for about 1 hour; rinse and dry

98. Pressing oil or cream Pressing oil or cream make the hair: softer
prepare and condition the hair for pressing
help prevent burning or scorching
help prevent breakage
add sheen to the hair
help hair stay pressed longer

99. Pressing Hints Avoid excessive heat or pressure
Avoid too much pressing oil – will smoke and causes hair to look greasy
Avoid perfumed pressing oil near scalp to prevent allergies
Avoid over frequent hair pressings
Keep the comb clean at all times
Test temperature on tissue paper
Completely dry hair before pressing

100. Touch-ups
Sometime necessary when the hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or humidity
The process is the same however you omit the shampoo

101. Styling long hair
Updo – is a hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders and secured with implements such as hairpins, bobbypins, and elastics
Usually requested for special occasions such as weddings, proms, and evening events
3 basic updos: chignon, basic French twist, classic French twist
Backcombing and backbrushing are a must for updo styling, often times hair is set in rollers first too
Hair should be washed and dried the day before the updo because freshly washed hair can be slippery and difficult to work with

102. Basic French Twist

103. Classic French Twist/ Pleat

104. Chingnon/ Knot