1. *..*Unit 06*..*
By Nicole Terry

2. *..*Contents*..* 1.Temporary colours 2.Semi-permanent colours
4.Perming
5.Quasi
6. Bleach

3. *..*Temporary Colours*..*
Wash-in/Wash-out products are often used for temporary looks or for home "maintenance" on permanent or semi-permanent colour in the form of a shampoo or conditioner with colour added. They can also be part of a styling product like old fashioned setting lotion with a bluish tint. I have even come across mascara type wands with temporary colour's that you can streak through your hair. Many are vegetable-based. In-salon time 5min as they can be part of your shampoo or finishing product application but these are most common as home use products.
The Positives:
Great to pick up or lift your normal colour.
You can slightly vary your normal colour (depending on how dark you are) and get rid of the effect the next time you shampoo.
They can keep more that more expensive colour looking good for just that little longer before you are able to visit the hairdresser again.
They are very cheap.
Can't damage your hair.
The Negatives:
Not effective on dark hair
Colour change is very subtle.
If you are blonde they can build up and last longer than you want. If you have highly damaged blonde hair be very careful as they can grab to bits of your hair and not wash out!
They won't cover grey hair but will disguise it.

5. *..*Semi-Permanent Colours*..*
The two names are often used to describe the
same type of colour although a "demi" lasts longer than a "semi". They are designed to fade gradually.
Depending on the exact manufacturers range, they last between 6 and 8 weeks, some will last even longer. They are applied to all of your hair and will change the
reflect (copper, red, chocolate etc.) or darken it.
In-salon application would take less than an hour then add you cut and blow-dry time.
The Positives:
Conditioner based so will improve the condition of your hair.
If you have never tried colour in your hair before these are a great introduction without the commitment of having to keep the colour up.
These are the best types of colour to use in conjunction with a perm to maintain condition. The other advantage of a semi-permanent colour is that perms will fade your coloured hair and a semi-permanent colour can be done on the same day as your perm to refresh your look (you have to wait a week between a perm and a permanent colour).
Semi/Demi-permanent colours are generally a cheaper service than a permanent colour.
If you have a tendency to want to try new colours all the time this is a good way to go as long as you let each one fully fade away before doing the next.
Can be used in conjunction with a permanent colour, by your hairdresser, to keep the ends of your hair healthy and looking freshly coloured.
The Negatives:
Will not lighten your hair. Although on rare occasions, if you have naturally very fine hair some lightening may occur.
Will only give partial coverage on grey hair, the amount of coverage varies with differing brands (30 to 70%).
They gradually fade out over a period of weeks or washes so the colour changes quite a bit as it does this, and you may not like all of the stages of faded colour.
If your hair is very fine or you repeat too often (before the last one fades out) you will get a re-growth.
May require an allergy test if you are worried.
Your own colour will effect the results possible.

7. *..*Permanent Colours*..*
Colour is applied directly onto your scalp to all of your hair. In salon time about 1 hour then add the cut or blow-dry time. The same colours can be used to create, or in combination with highlights or lowlights to give texture to your hair.
The Negatives:
Although 'permanent', it is not forever, your hair will grow as it always has and be just as grey or dark, in fact it can even look a little more grey or darker due to the contrast with the colour.
It will fade a little too, especially over those stubborn greys, which are difficult to colour. Fade can also look a little reddish and if you don't want those tones in your hair then a semi or demi permanent colour maybe a better choice.
You will need to visit the salon for your roots to be "touched up" every 5 to 6 weeks.
The re-growth and how obvious it is will depend on the contrast of the colour chosen with your natural colour or any grey hair. A tiny re-growth with a high contrast colour is visible within two weeks. You would not believe how fast your hair grows before you have a colour of high contrast to your own. This can mean in a few cases that the re-growth needs touching-up every 3 weeks!
Permanent colour can cause an allergic reaction on very rare occasions, so ask for a patch test if you are worried.
The condition of your hair will change and feel a little coarser. This is not damage but the way coloured hair feels. Using specially designed shampoos and conditioners will help.
Can look a little "wig-like" on people with very thick dense hair.
It can be more obvious as it grows if you wear your hair with a definite parting or pull it back off your face.
The Positives:
Will give a strong, solid effect of colour in many different shades.
Makes haircuts, like the bob, look very sleek and sharp.
Makes fine hair look thicker when deeper shades are used.
The resultant slight swelling of the hair when permanently coloured is great for making fine hair appear thicker.
Covers grey hair. See our specialist grey hair section
Can make your hair lighter than it is naturally with out using bleach therefore gentler on the condition.

9. *..*Perming*..* What a perm won't do
Welcome to our perming section. The term "perm" comes from the word "permanent" because your hairdresser is basically changing the structure of your hair to make it permanently into a new shape. The reality of a "permanent" service is, that as your hair grows so your perm grows out. A perm will also soften or lose some of its shape over time, but rarely will it go back to what it originally was.
What a perm won't do
The main thing to know is that a perm is not the answer to never having to style your hair again. Don't assume you will wake up every morning with a perfect hairdo just because you've had a perm. In fact the opposite can be true as it is like having someone else's hair and you will need to learn a whole new set of skills to be able to look after it. Perms are really a good foundation to build the style you want to create. Many of the looks that you may think are permed are actually blow-dried, tonged or set on curlers and will only last until the hair is next shampooed.
Some types of hair will perm exceptionally easily and last a long time:
Already curly hair
Asian hair
Coarse hair
What a perm can do:
Perms can be used to create a bend, curl or even to loosen curl for those people who have naturally tight curls. The image of the eighties "tight perm" or the "granny/woolly head" look is hopefully disappearing forever. You can now get a "perm" that will do nothing more than give your hair some volume, direct it in a certain way or prevent it from making a parting where you don't want one.
The type of curl effect you can get varies depending on what the hair is moulded around during the perming process. Normally this is a curler but some hairdressers will use anything from a pipe cleaner for a really tight curl, to a "bendy" stick for a spiral effect. Yes, we are about to suggest a consultation again as it's all down to the skill of the hairdresser and the suitability of your hair.

10. *..*Acid Perms*..*
An acid perm is a type of hair permanent that uses acid. Acid is a liquid that is quite corrosive, and has a pH that is lower than pH 7. Acid perms are the opposite of alkaline perms. Acid perms have a pH that ranges from 6.5 to Permanents create a permanent curl or wave in the hair. If a permanent takes well, the hair will stay curly or wavy until it grows out. An acid perm creates a softer curl than an alkaline perm. If you are considering a permanent treatment for your hair, it is a good idea to talk to your hair care professional about which type of permanent, alkaline or acid, would work best with your hair. Make sure you ask about what could go wrong, and what damage the permanent could possibly do to your hair. With that information, you can make an informed decision about getting an acid perm or an alkaline perm.

11. Acid Hair Perms..*

12. Alkaline Hair Perms..*
An alkaline perm produces permanent hair waves (tight curls). It also has a pH from 7.5 to 9.5.
Another name for this is a cold wave.
Lotion S – for strong natural resistant hair (usually fine in texture)
Lotion 1 – for normal hair.
Lotion 2 – for normal hair, easy to wave or coloured hair in good condition
Lotion 3 – for coloured hair and mildly pre-lightened hair
Alkaline perms are good for strong curls, they process quickly, and they work at room temperature. They usually contain ammonium thioglycolate. it can be taken out of your hair but the chemicals will still be in your hair

13. *..*Quasi*..*
quasi colour lasts longer than a semi but it is not permanent it can last up to 48 washes and you don't get any re-growth when using this colour. A quasi colour covers grey whilst keeping a natural look
Quasi-colour contains ethanolamine and 3% peroxide, which slightly opens the cuticle. This means that the colour can last up to 20 washes and will softly fade and you shampoo causing no re-growth problem.

14. *..*Bleach*..*
Depending on your natural hair colour it is possible to give natural blonde more intensity by colour enhancing products. Bleach doesn’t wash out because it is permanent. It comes in different forms which are powder, cream, gel and oil, the oil based ones are used on the scalp as they are kinder.

15. *..*Bibliography*..* I got my information from:
Perming and straightening a salon handbook by Lesley and Philip Hatton.