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A Teutonic Tippling: The Wines of Germany and Austria More than Just Sweet Riesling
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Wine Produced Mainly in the West Rhine and Tributaries 60% of Production in Rhineland – Palitinate (Rheinland – Pfalz) 247,100 acres of Vineyards About 10% of France, Italy or Spain 18 th Most in the World (Wine Institute – 2010) Approximately 1.2 Billion Bottles per Year
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Myth: Germany Only makes Sweet Wines Fact: This tasting will feature exactly zero sweet wines Myth: Most German Wines are Low Quality Liebfraumilch (Silvaner) Blue Nun Fact: German White Wines are Widely Considered to be Some of the World’s Most Elegant and Aromatically Pure Myth: German Red Wines are Lousy Fact: German Red Wines are Becoming Much Better, and Quickly – But They are Difficult to Find in the US
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Some of the Most Northern Wine Regions in the World Wines Need to Be Frost- Resistant and/or Early Harvesting/Ripening Wines are All Produced Around Rivers – the Mountains Provide Shelter The Rivers Have Extreme Micro-Climate Impacts Steep Cliffs are Mainly Slate (Slate Absorbs the Sun’s Heat, and Retains it Through the Colder Nights) Rolling Hills are Mainly Clay and Lime The Best Wineries are on Steep Cliffs (Difficult to Harvest)
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Riesling – 21.9% (of acreage) and Increasing Müller-Thurgau – 13.4% Decreasing Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) – 11.5% Constant Dornfelder – 7.9% Decreasing Silvaner – 5.1% Decreasing Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) – 4.4% Increasing Blauer-Portugieser – 4.3% Decreasing Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) – 3.6% Increasing
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Ullrich Langguth Riesling Sekt – Trocken, Non-Vintage Trocken = Dry 13% ABV 100% Riesling Grape Langguth Family Founded the Wine Business in 1789 Ulrich Langguth Winery Founded in 1921 Patrick and Mark Langguth Currently Run the Winery
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Property is 4.5 Acres – 90% Riesling Grapes Also Come From Other Vineyards Traben Enkirch Piesport Vineyards All on Steep Slopes (85% Facing South or SSW) Production Limited to 60 Hectoliters per Hectare (~650 Gallons per Acre)
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Wine Produced Mainly in the East Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) ~60% of Total Wine Production in Austria (Regions 1 – 8) Burgenland ~30% of Total Wine Production in Austria (Regions 9 – 12) Others – Vienna (13); Styria (14 – 16) 108,000 acres of Vineyards 30 th Most in the World (Wine Institute – 2010)
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Danube Area Large Temperature Differentials Between Day and Night Long Vegetation Cycle Allows Harvest Into November Weinviertel Home to the Peppery Grüner Veltliner Numerous Micro-Climates and Geologic Differences Pannonian Area Warmer Climate than Danube or Weinviertel Contributes to Rounder, Fuller- Bodied Wines Great for Blaufränkisch Stiermark Also Warm – Hillier Countryside Wines are Precise, Brilliant and Robust
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Grüner Veltliner – 36.0% (of acreage) Other White (<2%) – 11.1% Zweigelt– 9.0% Welschriesling – 8.9% Other Red (<2%) – 8.9% Müller-Thurgau – 6.8% Pinot blanc + Chardonnay – 6.1% Blaufränkisch – 5.5% Blauer Portugieser – 4.9% Riesling – 3.4% Neuburger – 2.3%
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Lenz Moser Grüner Veltliner, Niederösterreich – Trocken, 2013 11.5% ABV 100% Grüner Veltliner Niederösterreich (Lower Austria – In the North) Winery at Rohrendorf bei Krems Yellow-Green Color Fresh and Spicy Bouquet Fruity Body, Lively Fresh Finish
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Food-Friendly Wine Many Different Styles Drunk Young Sparkling Longer Aging Steep, Slate Cliffs Produce Pure, Mineral Grüner Intended for Aging In the Plains, Citrus and Peach Flavors with Bouquet of Pepper or Tobacco
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Cooperates Exclusively with Winegrowers and Wine-Making Collectives from Lower Austria and Burgenland First Mentioned in an Official Document as Early as 1040 Laurenz (Lenz) Moser III Founded the Family Vine Nursery in 1929 Developed the Lenz Moser High Training System Used in 90% of Austria’s Vines
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Taffelwein and Landwein 3.6% of total production exported to US Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) Prädikatswein Kabinett Spätlese Auslese Beerneauslese Eiswein Trockenbeerenauslese
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German Wine Classification Table ClassificationEnglish Translation Min Alc of Wines Min. Pot. Alc of Must Sweetness of wine Botrytis Character Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) quality wine from a specific region (1 of 13 regions) 7 % 7-10 % Can add sugar us. semi- sweet, crisp acid Prädikatswein wine with special attributes (1 of 39 subregions) (Approved varieties) Kabinettreserve7 %9.5-12 % us. semi- sweet Spätleselate harvest7 %11-13 % us. semi- sweet Auslese select late harvest clusters 7 %12-14 %dry to sweetmaybe Beernernauslese select late harvest berries 5.5 %(15-18) % sweet dessert wine often Eisweinice wine5.5 %(15-18) % sweet dessert wine often Trockenbeerenauslese select late harvest dried berries 5.5 %(20-21) % sweet dessert wine often
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Max. sugar level allowed DesignationEnglish translation Low acid wines Medium acid wines High acid wines Trockendry 4 g/L (0.4%) acid level in g/L + 2 9 g/L (0.9%) Halbtrockenhalf-dry 12 g/L (1.2%) acid level in g/L + 10 18 g/L (1.8%) Feinherboff-dry Unregulated, slightly sweeter than halbtrocken Lieblich, Mild, Restsüß semi-sweetUsually not marked Süß, EdelsüßsweetUsually not marked How Sweet is it?
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Clean Slate Riesling, Mosel 2013 Grapes Selected from Upper, Middle, and Lower Mosel 10.5% ABV 100% Riesling Total Acid 7.4 g/L pH 2.5 Residual Sugar 2.2% Stainless Steel 4 Months Before Bottling Pale Gold Clean Nose – Apples and White Peaches Fruity with Vibrant Acidity – Intense Slate Minerality
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Moselland eG – Cooperative Formed in 1969 from Regional Cooperatives 6 districts, 19 collective parcels, 524 individual parcels 8,787 ha (21,700 acres) vineyard area (2011) 42.2% of growing area is “step Slope“ with more than 30% grading. Riesling grows on 60% of total area
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Ice Wine Harvest
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Arsenic
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Naturally Occurring Element In the Soil Groundwater Equipment Mostly Inexpensive Wines – Charles Shaw was Targeted by CBS Trader Joe’s Issued A Statement A Note to Customers about Arsenic in Wine, March 20, 2015 http://www.traderjoes.com/announcement/a-note-to-customers-about-arsenic-in- wine http://www.traderjoes.com/announcement/a-note-to-customers-about-arsenic-in- wine George Balling (the Dinner Party) Wrote an Article that Appeared in the Coeur d’Alene Press on 4/1/15 Described the Processes by Which Arsenic Could End Up in Wine Inexpensive Wines – You Get What You Pay For – Result of Trying to Save Money in: Crops (Central California Valley) Harvesting Processes – Machines Grab Unexpected Flora, Soil, Fauna Not a Lot of Money put Into Quality Wine-Making
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Only Toxic in it’s Inorganic Form – Standards Measure Total Arsenic (Both Organic and Inorganic) Health Effects Include Skin Disease; Skin, Lung, Bladder, Kidney Cancer; Hypertension; Diabetes Lifestyle Factors – Smoking, Genetics, Diet, Concurrent Exposure to Other Substances Have an Impact Standards are 10 Parts Per Billion (PPB) or 10 micrograms/Liter (µg/L) for Drinking Water Before 2001, it was 50 µg/L for Drinking Water In Canada, for Wine, it is currently 100 µg/L The International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV) in Paris – Standard for Wine is 200 µg/L The Highest Arsenic Level in the CBS Report was 50 µg/L I Can Calculate What Happens When I Drink Wine with this Level of Arsenic
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If I Drink 4.5 Liters of Wine Per Day with 50 µg/L Arsenic…. And These Pictures Represent ~7.5 Months of Wine…It’s a LOT And if I do this for a Lifetime – My Cancer Risk Does Increase Using the EPA Calculated Oral Dose Standards, & If I Do the Math Correctly, My Increased Chance of Cancer Risk After a Lifetime is ~ 1 in 250 This is Equivalent to 0.4% Chance of Contracting Cancer in My Lifetime Another way to View This – I Have a 99.6% Chance of NOT Contracting Cancer from Drinking This Much Wine with 50 PPB Arsenic Over a Lifetime And, I’ll probably Die from Cirrhosis of the Liver Way, Way Before I get Cancer
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Riesling Terpenoid Alcohols Mostly from skins, and juice Easily oxidized, can change with aqge Some bound with glucose- a reservoir Hotrienol- Grapefruit Linalool, Nerol, Geraniol- Rose, Geranium Citronellol- Citronella Alpha-terpineol- Lily of the Valley
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TDN Formed from plant pigments carotene and lutein Riesling has right proportions to produce TDN with age More common from warm weather grapes, sun exposure, high acid Cork absorbs TDN, so screwcaps favor TDN Considered a flaw in young Australian Riesling 20 ppb threshold, up to 200 ppb in Riesling
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Rudi Weist, Pfeffingen Ungstein Gewürztraminer - Trocken, Pfalz 2013 13% ABV 100% Gewürztraminer Hand-Selected Grapes Acidity 5.2 g/L Residual Sugar 7.2 g/L
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High Natural Sugar Usually Results in an Off- Dry Wine Pink to Red Skins Makes it a “White” Wine Grape Only the 18 th Most Common Grape Varietal Grown in Germany Typically a Dryer Style than Across the Rhine (Alsace) Spicy, Peppery Nose – with Rose Floral Notes Extremely Well-Balanced Wine, Rich Mouth-feel, Lingering Finish
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Located in the Village of Ungstein – Essentially a Neighborhood in Bad Dürkheim – 10 Miles West of Mannheim Family-Owned Winery 8,000 Cases per Year Total Production Valentin Schnell Bought the Estate in 1931 Karl and Helen Fuhrmann (Helen is Valentin’s Grand- daughter) Took Over in 1952. Karl and Helen’s Daughter, Doris Eymael, Has Run the Winery Since 1992
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The Pfeffingen Estate
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Lenz Moser, Zweigelt, Niederösterreich – Trocken 2013 12.5% ABV 100% Zweigelt Ruby Red Wine – Aroma of Cherries Medium to Full Bodied – Spicy Notes, Fruity Finish
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Most Widely-Grown Red Varietal in Austria Developed in 1922 by Fritz Zweigelt Cross Between St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch Grows in All Austrian Wine Regions – Varies Greatly in Character Young-Drinking non- Wood-Matured Strong, Well-Structured Wood Aged And Everything In Between
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Uwe Schiefer, Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, 2012 13.0% ABV 100% Blaufränkisch Ruby to Garnet in Color Nose of Sour Cherries Medium to Full Bodied – Well Structured with Wood and Mineral Notes, with a Lingering Finish
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In the US, Known as Lemberger Early-Budding, Late- Ripening Varietal Susceptible to Early Frost So, Typically Grown in Southern Austria 2 nd Most Widely- Grown Red Wine in Austria
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Located in Welgersdorf Südburgenland Uwe Schiefer – Owner Since 1994 14 Hectares (~34.5 acres) About 26,000 Bottles Annually Most Acreage Devoted to Red Wine, Mostly Blaufränkisch “Iron-rich Clay-silt Terroir on Ancient Terraces Allows the Production of Red Wines that are Full of Character and Seem Almost Cool”
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You can order any of these wines (except the Sekt) at Pilgrim’s. Within the next week, Sara Ray will provide you a 10% discount – talk to her when she is in – usually after about 11:00 AM Tues – Fri. Riesling Sekt – Total Wine - $15 Lenz Moser – Grüner Veltliner - $11 Clean Slate Riesling - $11 Pfeffingen Gewürztraminer - $26 Lenz Moser Zweigelt - $13 Uwe Schieffer Blaufränkisch - $20
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