1.  AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 1 Anita Buzengeiger-Mahncke / Matthias Schmidt Sewing Advisory And Product Service Hauptstraße 1 / 74357 Bönnigheim / Tel: 07143 277 250 / Fax: 07143 277 460 / nt@amann.com

2. Basic Sewing Threads AMANN GROUP 2010

3. Influences to sewing process Machine Sewing thread Handling Fabric / Lining Needle Nähtechnischer Service

4. Quality In Sewing Thread Knots and thick places Tenacity (breaking strength) Sliding charakteristics Shrinkage Abrasion resistance Colour (tone and fastness) Lubrication Elongation Twists (Thread and yarn twists per meter) Density

5. Thread analysis AMANN GROUP 2010

6. Thread analysis –Raw material –Twist direction –Amount of plies –Thread thickness (ticket number) –Thread construction Parameters to differentiate the threads AMANN GROUP 2010

7. Raw material AMANN GROUP 2010

8. Raw material Determination of raw material through burning test Polyamide (PA) (called Nylon) Cotton (CO) Silk (SI) - smoke: heavy black - flame: high blazed - remainder: black melting - smell : sharp, penetrative - smoke: mostly white, blazed - flame: blazed and dropping, brown - remainder: brown melting, liquid drops - smell: aromatic (like celery) - flame: quick burning, bright - remainder: light ashes - smell: like burned paper - flame: blazed - remainder: cindery, grindable - smell: like horn or hair Polyester (PES) Be careful!

9. Itecm Natural fibresChemical fibres Raw materials CottonPolyesterPolyamide Optical appearance Matt gloss, can be improved by mercerization The optical appearance can be changed by using optical brighteners, dyeing, profiles of fibers, texurizing and making of special types of fibers Tenacity -+++ Elongation -+++ Abrasion resistance -++++ Dyeing performance ++ o (only high pressure: app. 135°C /app. 4 bar) ++ Colour fastness -+++ Light fastness -++- Melting point app. 320°C Heat for selfburning ca. 256°C215 – 252°C Chemical resistance - OK against acid OK against soda / hydrooxide Raw Materials

10. AMANN GROUP 2010 Why mostly threads made of chemical fibres are used today?  Characteristics are adaptable to different applications  Constant quality  „Custom-made fibres“ (fibre according to requirements)  Yarn evenness  High breaking strength and abrasion resistance Raw material

11. Twist direction AMANN GROUP 2010

12. Thread – direction of twisting S-winding Z-winding

13. Number of plies AMANN GROUP 2010

14. 2-plies3-plies4-plies Z SSSS Z SSS Z SS Amount of plies

15. Thread construction AMANN GROUP 2010

16. Spun threads (Cotton, Polyester, Nomex ©, Kevlar ©,...) Sewing thread constructions Cotton Chemical fibres N-tech K-tech Belfil-S

17. Monofilament (Polyamid) TRANSFIL Sewing thread constructions

18. Continous filament (Polyester, Polyamide, Nomex ©, Kevlar ©,…. ) Sewing thread constructions Synton ISACORD 40

19. Core spun threads Polyester & Cotton Polyester & Polyester Sewing thread constructions

20. Texturized threads (Polyester, Polyamide) Sewing thread constructions

21. AMANN GROUP 2010 Wrapped yarn META 30 e.g. Polyester: Sewing thread constructions

22. Herzlichen Dank für Ihr Interesse! Muchas gracias por su interés! Grazie mille per il Suo interesse! Merci beaucoup pour votre intérêt! akujem Vám za pozornos ! Muito obrigado pelo seu interesse! Thanks you very much for being interested! Ilginize tesekkuer ederim ! Спасибо за внимание AMANN GROUP 2010