1. HAIR REMOVAL
CHAPTER 18

2. Hair Removal
Mastering the techniques of removing unwanted hair will be of great benefit to the professional cosmetologist because most clients have unwanted hair in one area or another
Excessive hair can be extremely embarrassing and unattractive for female clients, especially when found on the face and chest.
It’s important for the cosmetologist to be very sensitive when approaching a client about this type of service
You will want to learn the best ways to remove unwanted hair that cause the least amount of discomfort for the client and create lasting results.

3. Hair Removal
The technical terms for excessive hair are hirsuties (hur-SOO-shee-eeez) or hypertrichosis (hy-pur-trih-KOH-sis)
Simply, it means hair growth in unusual amounts or locations on both male and female clients that needs to be removed
This problem of excessive hairiness has been around for centuries
History documents that everything from abrasive pumice stones to sharpened stones and seashells have been used to rub off and pluck out hair

4. Hair Removal
Records also indicate that primitive chemicals were used for his purpose
Egyptians made a compound of mud and alum, which was unpleasant and could pit the surface of the skin
Turks used a combination of yellow sulfide of arsenic, quicklime and rose water, which created a primitive depilatory called rusma
Today, methods of hair removal fall into two categories:
Depilation: removing hair at the skin line such as shaving and using chemical depilatories
Epilation: removing hair below the skin line such as tweezing, waxing and electrolysis

5. Contraindications
A contraindication is any condition or disease that makes an indicated treatment or medication inadvisable

6. Contraindications
Facial waxing or tweezing should not be performed on clients with these conditions
Roascea or very sensitive skin
Sunburn
History of fever blisters or cold sores
Presence of pustules or papules
Recent chemical peel using glycolic, salicylic or other acid-based products
Recent botox or collagen injections
Cosmetic or reconstructive surgery

7. Contraindications Medications affecting hair removal services Retin-A
Renova
Hydroquinone
Blood-thinning medications
Topical or oral cortisone medication
Accutane

8. TYPES OF HAIR REMOVAL Temporary Permanent
Hair will grow back eventually
Quick and convenient
Permanent
Destroys the papilla
Will not grow back

9. TEMPORARY METHODS OF HAIR REMOVAL
Shaving
REMOVES HAIR ABOVE SKIN SURFACE
Tweezing
REMOVES HAIR SHAFT AND BULB
Electronic tweezers
PAPILLA IS DEHYDRATED & EVENTUALLY DESTROYED
Depilatories
PHYSICAL
CHEMICAL

10. TEMPORARY METHODS OF HAIR REMOVAL
EPILATORS
REMOVES HAIR BY PULLING IT OUT OF THE FOLLICLE
Waxing
Removes hair by pulling out the hair follicle
Threading
Practiced in many Eastern cultures; involves manipulations of cotton thread, which is twisted & rolled along the skin surface, entwining the hair in the thread & lifting it from the follicle.
Sugaring
As results as hot or cold wax. Involves the use of a thick, sugar-based paste & is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types

11. DEPILATORIES PHYSICAL CHEMICAL EPILADY WAX NEET NAIR BIKINI BARE HOT
COLD
SUGAR
CHEMICAL
NEET
NAIR
BIKINI BARE

12. CHEMICAL DEPILATORIES
CONTAINS AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE
PENETRATES INTO THE CORTEX LAYER
BREAKS THE DISULFIDE BONDS AND THE POLY PEPTIDE BONDS
DISSOLVES THE HAIR SHAFT
REMOVES HAIR AT SKIN SURFACE

13. PHYSICAL HAIR REMOVAL Wax is applied to the hair shaft
Removes hair shaft and bulb
It is like tweezing, but eventually it will weaken the papilla and eliminate growth
Removes all hair, even lanugo hair
Epilady only removes the long hairs

14. PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL
ELECTROLOGY
GENERAL TERM USED TO DESCRIBE PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL
By means of an electric current that destroys the root of the hair
Photo-epilation
Intense light to destroy hair follicle
Laser hair removal
Laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing the hair follicle
GALVANIC
THERMOLYSIS

15. PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL
GALVANIC
WORKS THROUGH CHEMICALLY AND ELECTRICITY
DIRECT CURRENT
AN ELECTRICAL CURRENT IS SENT THROUGH A SMALL NEEEDLE THAT IS INSERTED IN THE FOLLICLE
BODY SALTS CHANGE
THERMOLYSIS
ALTERNATING OR HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT
USES HEAT TO DESTROY THE PAPILLA

16. Summary We’ve learned that hair is removed by:
Depilation; removing hair at the skin line such as tweezing, waxing and electrolysis
Epilation; removing hair below the skin line such as tweezing, waxing and electrolysis
As a cosmetologist you will be asked to remove unwanted hair, especially the eyebrows and facial hair. If you choose to specialize in esthetics, you will want to become proficient in other hair removal services as allowed by the regulatory agency in the state
It is extremely important to follow sanitary guidelines when removing unwanted hair. Never forget to cleanse and dry the treatment area prior to treatment and apply a cooling antiseptic afterwards. Follow all safety precautions to protect client from skin irritation or inflammation