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Published byAda Cooper Modified over 9 years ago
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NATURAL AND MANUFACTURED FIBERS DESTINY DAVID
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TYPES OF NATURAL FIBERS Silk Cotton Wool Mohair Cashmere
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SILK Originated in china Around for 500 years Was only available as an oriental import and only very wealthy people could afford it For a long time, Italy remained the leading silk country in Europe France expanded it’s silk weaving in the middle of the 17th century and surpassed Italy
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SILK Produced by silk worms Eggs are hatched Worms eats chopped mulberry leaves during which time they shed their skin four times Rotates it’s body in a figure-8 movement about 300,000 times Constructing a cocoon and producing about a kilometer of silk filament Silk is then unbound from the cocoon by softening the sericin (protects fiber during process) Once sericin is washed out (in soap and boiling water), the fabric is left soft, lustrous, and up to 30% lighter The amount of usable silk in each cocoon is small, and about 2500 silkworms are required to produce a pound of raw silk.
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SILK Lingerie Furniture Home Furnishings Knitting Scarves Ribbons Ties
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SILK Advantages Mixes well with other animal and vegetable fibers Washes easily Warm and cozy in winter Highly absorbent Dries quickly Disadvantages Cannot be bleached or soaked in prewash products Delicate Stains easily Requires dry cleaning Expensive
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COTTON In the Indus River Valley in Pakistan, cotton was being grown, spun and woven into cloth 3,000 years BC. Natives of Egypt’s Nile valley were making and wearing cotton clothing When Columbus discovered America in 1492, he found cotton growing in the Bahama Islands By 1500, cotton was known generally throughout the world Cotton was first spun by machinery in England in 1730 The industrial revolution in England and the invention of the cotton gin in the U.S. paved the way for the important place cotton holds in the world today
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COTTON The seeds are planted in spring and cotton plants grow into green, bushy shrubs about a metre in height The plants briefly grow pink and cream colored flowers that once pollinated dropped off and are replaced with “fruit”, better known as cotton bolls Inside each cotton boll is the fluffy white lint that we’re all familiar with, as well as a number of cotton seeds The cotton is picked with large mechanical harvesters and sent off to the cotton “gin” for processing During the ginning process, the lint is separated from the seeds and is then pressed into bales Shipped overseas to be spun, dyed, knitted and woven into fabrics like clothes and home furnishings
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COTTON Socks Underwear Towels Sheets Q-Tips Fabric Threads
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COTTON Advantages Absorbent Breathable Resists static Soft Inexpensive Doesn’t stain easily Disadvantages Not wrinkle-resistant Fades in sunlight Dries slowly Shrinks easily
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Machine wash Tumble dry at moderate temperatures Press with warm to hot iron Wash cotton whites with bleach on a hot water setting
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WOOL Humans in the Neolithic Age wore animal pelts as clothing The English had become proficient in the raising of sheep, while the Flemish had developed the skills for processing The British began to sell their wool to the Flemish, who processed the raw material and then sold it back to the English When the American colonies began to compete with the motherland, the English passed a series of laws in an attempt to protect their "golden fleece.“ One law even threatened the amputation of the hand of any colonist caught trying to improve the blood line of American sheep
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WOOL - PROCESS They grow a wool coat and once a year this wool coat is sheared off the animal The fleece must be cleaned before it can be processed into wool yarn All the edges of the wool coat are removed; fine from coarse and short from long Submerge the wool in an acid bath which dissolves all the vegetable matter as well as the grease The wool is put through a picker which opens the locks and blows the fluffy wool into a room Combed many times by transfering it back and forth from one drum to the other as it is passed down the series of drums Spools of pencil roving will be placed on the spinning frame to make yarn To make two or more ply yarn the strands are twisted together on the plyer, from several cones onto fewer spools When the wooden bobbins are full of yarn, they are placed on a cone winder and the yarn is transferred to paper cones for use in weaving and knitting machines
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WOOL Sweaters Coats Suits Blankets Rugs + Carpets Use a brush to remove surface soil and dirt Hang wool garments in a steamy bathroom after wearing or unpacking Try to treat stains immediately to prevent them from setting into the fabric Clean wool fabric using a mild detergent in lukewarm water Set iron to WOOL setting Add water to the iron. Always use steam heat when pressing
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WOOL Advantages Holds moisture without feeling wet Resilient Fire, Dirt, and Static resistant Great for warmth Disadvantages Can be scratchy to wear Pills easily Felts easily by moisture, heat and agitation
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MOHAIR Sweaters Suits Beanies Socks Home Furnishings Scarves
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MOHAIR - HISTORY One of the oldest textile fibers in use Comes from Angora Goats Originates from the mountains of Tibet In about 1820, raw mohair was first exported from Turkey to England Until 1849, the Turkish province of Ankara was the sole producer of Angora goats In 1849, Angora goats made their way to America as a gift from Turkey South Africa is the largest mohair producer in the world, with the majority of South African mohair being produced in the Eastern Cape
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MOHAIR - PROCESS Shearing: Mohair is shorn from Angora goats twice a year, usually in Spring so they can grow long coats in the winter Scouring: Fleeces are washed to remove dirt and natural oils (called lanolin, which also has important market value) Carding: Wire brushes are used to comb themohair and wool to align fibers in parallel. The fiber is then loosely twisted together into long, loose, multiple fiber strands, called roving. Spinning: twists the roving more tightly, interlocking and binding fibers together to become strong threads or yarn Knitting/Weaving: can be knitted to make, sweaters, and knitted shirts or woven (criss-crossed threads) for blankets, rugs, and fabrics that are cut and sewn together for fine garments such as suits, shirts and dresses
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