1. Medieval What Not to Wear: The right hat for the right outfit THL Berengaria of Outremer, OW, Cygnus Knowne World Costume Symposium The Barony of Jaravellir November 24-26 2006

2. Today’s Agenda Overview of hats/headdresses over time Overview of hats/headdresses over time Northern Europe (Britain, Netherlands) Northern Europe (Britain, Netherlands) Southern Europe (mainly Italy) Southern Europe (mainly Italy) Men and women Men and women Peasant, middle class & noble Peasant, middle class & noble Choosing the right hat Choosing the right hat Creating/Reproducing your hat Creating/Reproducing your hat

3. Some background

4. Hats/headdresses became more elaborate over time

5. Heads were generally (but not always) covered or hair was dressed

6. Northern Europeans used headgear more than Southern Europeans German, 1502Florentine, 1505

7. It was more common for women’s heads to be covered than men’s (but not always)

8. Different styles of hats were worn at the same time

9. Hats signalled class/rank, age, ethnicity

10. Hats for nobility or royalty often combined millinery and jewellery

11. Children dressed the same as adults

12. A note about straw hats and snoods: Yes, they’re period… but use with caution!

13. How do you choose the right hat? Research, research, research

14. Research Sources Primary Sources: Primary Sources: Artwork of the time Artwork of the time Writings of the time – literature, ballads, diaries, wills, etc. Writings of the time – literature, ballads, diaries, wills, etc. Archaeological evidence Archaeological evidence Secondary sources: Secondary sources: Costume histories Costume histories Art books Art books SCA sources– recommend Cynthia Virtue/Cynthia Du Pre Argent SCA sources– recommend Cynthia Virtue/Cynthia Du Pre Argent Tertiary Sources: Tertiary Sources: Encyclopedias Encyclopedias Pattern books Pattern books Theatrical/film costumes Theatrical/film costumes

15. Primary source = created at the time, by the people who lived it Helps you to develop an “eye” for periods, styles, shapes, fabrics, colours,etc. Helps you to develop an “eye” for periods, styles, shapes, fabrics, colours,etc. Helps you to judge relevance of secondary sources like books, articles & websites Helps you to judge relevance of secondary sources like books, articles & websites What’s the difference?

16. Primary sources for North Americans Not easy to find – mostly located in museums, galleries, university libraries & archives Not easy to find – mostly located in museums, galleries, university libraries & archives For us the Internet is crucial, but….use extreme caution!!! For us the Internet is crucial, but….use extreme caution!!! Information can range from the sublime to the ridiculous……. Information can range from the sublime to the ridiculous…….

17. Fantasy

18. Reality! http://www.elizabethancostume.net/effigy.htm

19. “If you want accurate costumes…don't believe web articles, collegium seminars, or offhand remarks by others who won't show you (or refer you to) the medieval or renaissance original images they base their theories on.” Cynthia de Pre Argent http://www.virtue.to/bookmarks.html

20. Developing an artistic eye Early detailed visual evidence of costume not easy to find Early detailed visual evidence of costume not easy to find Portraiture not common Portraiture not common Human figures not realistically represented Human figures not realistically represented

21. Be aware that from 1000-1500 many/most themes were religious or allegorical Be aware that from 1000-1500 many/most themes were religious or allegorical Even portraits had a lots of religious symbolism Even portraits had a lots of religious symbolism Costuming may be in the “Nativity scene” style – an idealized view Costuming may be in the “Nativity scene” style – an idealized view

23. Now, a quick romp through hat history

24. Viking and Anglo Saxon Periods – to 1200

25. Characteristics: Simple, flowing Accessorizes: Apron dress, tunic, kirtle & gown Women’s hair loose or braided & pinned Women’s hair loose or braided & pinned Men’s hair longish, could wear caps or hoods except for noble Normans who shaved the back of their heads Men’s hair longish, could wear caps or hoods except for noble Normans who shaved the back of their heads Women also wore veils (silk, linen) with fillets, allows hair to show Women also wore veils (silk, linen) with fillets, allows hair to show

27. A note on women’s Viking headgear

28. “…The kerchief as understood and worn in the SCA is conspicuous by its absence from the archaeological debate about Viking women's headwear. "But That's How They Look in the Book!": Viking Women's Garb in Art and Archaeology © 1991, 1999 Carolyn Priest-Dorman http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/roach.html

29. Jorvik Hood reconstruction Dublin Hood reconstruction http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/hairstyl.shtml#WomensHairstyles

30. http://www.sagamuseum.is/enska/figures.html

31. Princess Leia Strikes Back: 1200-1400 Marie France 1327

32. Characteristics: Fillets, crowns/veils Accessorizes: Kirtle & gown, open surcoat, tunic Hair begins to be hidden Hair begins to be hidden Wimples, barbettes develop Wimples, barbettes develop Secured with fillet or crown Secured with fillet or crown Hair sometimes worn loose underneath but more typically netted Hair sometimes worn loose underneath but more typically netted Men’s hair same as previously Men’s hair same as previously Men’s hats incl. liripipes, capuchons Men’s hats incl. liripipes, capuchons

34. Netting begins to take on a life of its own – development of the crespine – occurs mid-late in the 1300s Philippa of Hainault 1365

35. Styles in north and south begin to diverge

36. Cinderella’s Ugly Sisters: 1400- 1450

37. Characteristics: Extreme shapes – men & women Hidden hair – women Accessorizes: Houppelande, both men & women Hats become headdresses in this century, except for Italy Hats become headdresses in this century, except for Italy Exaggerations of previous trends, esp. women’s Exaggerations of previous trends, esp. women’s Shapes are : reticulated, horned, heart-shaped, turbans,rolls – the escoffion Shapes are : reticulated, horned, heart-shaped, turbans,rolls – the escoffion Veils are optional; have moved away from functionality of hiding the hair and are purely decorative Veils are optional; have moved away from functionality of hiding the hair and are purely decorative Materials go from simple linens and silks to brocades; metal is common in the netting; jewels are part of the design Materials go from simple linens and silks to brocades; metal is common in the netting; jewels are part of the design Middle class copy noble fashions Middle class copy noble fashions

38. Italian 1436 French 1430s Flemish 1439

39. 1430 Flemish 1440 Italian More similarities for men???

40. Fairytale Princesses:1450-1485

41. Characteristics: Pointed or tubular shapes – women Close-fitting caps/bonnets,”top hats” Accessorizes: Houppelande, v-necked gown&kirtle –women Houppelande,short tunics – men Pointy shoes for both Hats more streamlined – emphasis on height Hats more streamlined – emphasis on height Veiling is very lightweight, complicated for hennins; wired and starched to shape Veiling is very lightweight, complicated for hennins; wired and starched to shape Middle class uses heavier veiling, pins, less exaggerated shapes Middle class uses heavier veiling, pins, less exaggerated shapes Hair hidden, heads partially shaved/plucked Hair hidden, heads partially shaved/plucked Completely different in Italy: jewelled hair, ribbon coifs, pageboy haircuts (men) Completely different in Italy: jewelled hair, ribbon coifs, pageboy haircuts (men)

42. Northern 1460s-80s

43. Southern 1460s-80s

44. Gables & the Hood: 1485-1550

45. Characteristics: Rounded shapes, close-fitting – men & women Hair allowed to show Accessorizes: Square-necked gown & kirtle Doublet Hennins shrink and become gables ca. 1485 in Northern Europe & England Hennins shrink and become gables ca. 1485 in Northern Europe & England Turban shapes retained in Germany Turban shapes retained in Germany Hair still the focus in Italy – both men & women Hair still the focus in Italy – both men & women English hood evolves from gable/kennel in early 1500s English hood evolves from gable/kennel in early 1500s French hood introduced by Anne Boleyn French hood introduced by Anne Boleyn Men wear flat caps & berets –both north & south Men wear flat caps & berets –both north & south

46. 1496 German vs Venetian

47. 1505 English 1515 Italian

48. Shakespeare in Love: 1550-1600

49. Characteristics: Smaller, flatter, unisex Accessorizes: Farthingale, doublet, ruffs Hats become smaller and set off hair, which is poofy Hats become smaller and set off hair, which is poofy Usually worn with undercap/coif Usually worn with undercap/coif Some “top hat” styles: “Spanish toque” Some “top hat” styles: “Spanish toque” Court hats can be bigger Court hats can be bigger Little to no veiling – feathers the big accessory Little to no veiling – feathers the big accessory Unisex style –both men & women wore, although women’s more delicate and closer-fitting Unisex style –both men & women wore, although women’s more delicate and closer-fitting Italian, French – favour styled hair Italian, French – favour styled hair

52. Summary Hats became more elaborate over time Hats became more elaborate over time Heads were generally (but not always) covered or hair was dressed Heads were generally (but not always) covered or hair was dressed Northern Europeans used headgear more than Southern Europeans Northern Europeans used headgear more than Southern Europeans It was more common for women’s heads to be covered than men’s It was more common for women’s heads to be covered than men’s Different styles of hats were worn at the same time Different styles of hats were worn at the same time Children were dressed the same as adults Children were dressed the same as adults Hats for nobility or royalty often combined millinery and jewellery Hats for nobility or royalty often combined millinery and jewellery Straw hats & snoods are period – but not all-purpose Straw hats & snoods are period – but not all-purpose

53. Up to 13 th century: simple, flowing Up to 13 th century: simple, flowing Veil (women), Cap (men) Veil (women), Cap (men) 1300-1400: structure, braids, netting 1300-1400: structure, braids, netting Wimple, Crespine (women), Chaperon (men) Wimple, Crespine (women), Chaperon (men) 1400-1485: big hats, horns, turbans 1400-1485: big hats, horns, turbans Escoffion(women),Turban(men) Escoffion(women),Turban(men) 1485-1550: smaller,rounded,flatter 1485-1550: smaller,rounded,flatter Gable,French hood(women), Bonnet, Flat cap(men) Gable,French hood(women), Bonnet, Flat cap(men) 1550-1600: small,fitted,plumed 1550-1600: small,fitted,plumed Caps, Spanish toque – men & women Caps, Spanish toque – men & women

54. Thank you!