1. Origin: It’s soap or mixture of soap The new trends used the synthetic detergents. Definition: It’s a preparation of surfactant in suitable form.

2. Function: 1.remove grease surface, dirt and skin debris from hair and scalp. 2.Cleaning of scalp only make the hair look clean and manageable. 3.It shouldn't cause stinging and irritation, also it shouldn’t remove too much of the natural oil of the hair. 4.Why shampoo replace the cake soap? Detergent and cosmetic reasons. Form and type of shampoo: 1. form: liquid, lotion, gel, paste aerosol, dry product 2. Type or differentiation: according to hair (dry, greasy) for children, infants, and men.

3. Liquid Shampoo: 1.properties: 2.Why it is based on K soap? It chelate Ca & Mg to inhibit the formation of Ca & Mg soap. Lotion Shampoo: Contain Mg stearate, water, PEG distearate, propylene glycol, sod. Chloride. Raw Materials: It's soap formed by: Oil or fat + Alkali saponification Soap.

4. 2. Oil with short chain fatty acid good foaming soap. Chain 10-12 work well in low temp. 14-16 good cleaners in warm water. 16-18 good cleaners and effective at 70 o c. Less than 10 soap is very soluble and irritant. More than 20 soap is insoluble The more popular is that one containing coconut oil. Solve the problem by: 1.Ex. Of sequestering agent: Coconut oil KoH Water Perfume Olive oil Sod. OH Ethyl alcohol EDTA Palm oil

5. 2. Using sulfated oils or fat e.g. sulfated castor oil Water Sulfated castor oil Sulfated olive oil Mineral oil Glycerol Perfume Disadvantage of sulfated oils: poor foaming agent, and the excessive use of these oil leave the hair dull, wiry and difficult to manage.

6. Synthetic Detergents: 1.Alkyl benzene and alkyl naphthalene have good leathering effect in hard water. It must contain more than 12 carbon atom to give excellent foam and leave the hair smooth and soft. Commercial products are mix of C10 2%, C12 62%, C14 22%, C16 and C18. 2. Alkyl benzene polyoxyethylene sulfonates have excellent detergent, emulsifier and wetting properties. And it’s effective in hard water. 3. Sulfated monoglyceride it’s excellent detergent and good foaming agent which leave the hair soft and lustrous. 4. Alcohol ether sulfates it’s mild detergent. Cationic: less popular than anionic. It’s usually poor detergent. Harsh to the skin & eyes. Expensive.

7. Advantage: has a bactericidal activity. Ex. Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride Dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride Cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide Amphotenics: it’s anionic surfactant _ cationic & pH adjustment agent Nonionic: 2 nd widely used gp bec. Of low foam. Have good resistance to hard water. Effective in acidic & alkaline pH. Mild to the skin. Using different amount of ethylene oxide different degree of solubility.

8. 1.Foam builder: * It increase the quantity, volume and stability of the lather. It enhance the viscosity and impart a slight conditioner effect to the hair. Ex: * fatty acid alkanolamide comparison: SAA foam V 15min 30min A A LaurylOdecyl benzene monoethanolamide 120 50 25 B B lauryl monoethanolamide 190 160 159 B B Lauryl diethanolamide 130 75 50 A B A has good foaming effect when used alone but the addition of B to the formula not only increase the foam value but enhance the stability of foam.

9. 2. Conditioning agent: the difference bet. The SAA and the shampoo is the finishing or conditioning action of the shampoo. Conditioning agent coat the hair with a small amount of a material that either improve the handling or lubricates the hair. Ex: lanoline and it’s derivative, ester such as isopropyl myristate, glyceryl, propylene glycol Amine oxide and silicon and lauryl was recommended to soft the hair, Quaternaries has excellent conditioning action but it cause eye irritation & not compatible with soap and anionic detergent. Cationic material has excellent conditioning action, but it retained on hair after extended rinsing. 3.Opacifier agent: Ex higher alcohol, higher acid, glyceryl, propylene glycol 4. preservative: Formaldehyde, nitrate, PHBA derivative alkylcresol

10. 5. Reducing agent: Protect against discoloration or odor deterioration 6. Suspending agent: vegum & bentonite stabilize the suspending of particles 7. pH buffer stabilizer: Stabilize the shampoo. 8. clarifying agent: Keep the shampoo clear over a wide temp. range 9. Sequesting agent: Tween is used to improve the cleaning action of shampoo & disappears the lime soap formed by the hard water. 10.Thickning agent: Cellulose derivative, carbapol must use with special care. Inorganic salt is use in limited amount.