1. Trichos= Hair Ology=the study of Trichology is the study of Hair

2. .
Prepared by: Steve Ellis

3. Hair Analysis Wave Pattern and Tendencies
Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand
Hair texture can be classified as course, medium and fine

4. Story of the Strand The hair is broken into 2 parts
- the Root is the part of the hair located below the surface of the skin
- the Shaft is the portion of the hair that projects above the skin

5. Structure of the Root The Root is broken into 5 parts: 1-Follicule
2-Bulb
3- Dermal Papilla
4-Arrector Pili
5-Sebaceous Glands

6. Follicle
The tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp that contains the root.
It extends downward through the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) into the dermis ( the inner layer of the skin)

7. Hair Bulb
The lowest area or part of the hair strand. It is the thickened, club-shaped structure that forms the hair root. The lower part of the hair blub fits over and covers the dermal papilla.

8. Dermal Papilla
A small cone-shaped elevation located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb. The dermal papilla contains the blood and nerve supply that provides the nutrients needed for hair growth.

9. Arrector Pili
A minute, involuntary muscle fiber in the skin inserted in the base of the hair follicle. Fear or cold causes it to contract, which makes the hair stand up straight resulting in “goose bumps”.

10. Sebaceous Gland
The oil glands of the skin, connected to the hair follicles. The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance called sebum, which lubricates the hair and skin.

11. Structure of the Shaft The Shaft is broken into 3 parts: -Cuticle
- Cortex
-Medulla

12. Cuticle The outermost layer of the hair
It consist of scale like cells that over lap like shingles on a roof.
A healthy cuticle layer protects the hair from penetration and prevents damage to hair fibers

13. Cortex The middle layer of the hair
About 90% of the strength of the hair comes from the cortex
Hair elasticity and color structure is located in within the cortex.
Hair-coloring, wet-styling, thermal styling, permanent waving, and chemical hair relaxing all take place in the cortex.

14. Medulla The inner most layer of the hair
It is quite common for very fine and naturally blonde hair to entirely lack a medulla
Generally only thick course hair contains a medulla

15. Chemical Structure of Hair “The Proteins”
Hair is composed of proteins that grow from cells originating within the hair follicle
Hair is approximately 91% protein

16. Amino Acids Amino Acids are the units of structure in protein
They are linked together end to end

17. Peptide Bond
The bond that that joins amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond
A long chain of amino acids linked together by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide chain

18. Chemical Structure of Hair “The Bonds”
The Cortex, middle layer of hair , is made up of millions of polypeptide chains
Polypeptide chains are crossed-linked together by 3 different types of side bonds; hydrogen bonds, salt bonds, and disulfide bonds
These side bonds hold the hair fibers together and account for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair

19. Hydrogen Bond
Physical side bond that is easily broken by water or heat
Although individual hydrogen bonds are very weak, there are so many of them that they account for about 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

20. Salt Bond Also physical side bond, but is broken by changes in pH
Salt bonds are easily broken by strong alkaline or acidic solutions and also account for 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

21. Disulfide Bond
A chemical side bond that differs greatly from physical hydrogen or salt bonds
Disulfide bonds join sulfur atoms of two neighboring cysteine amino acids to create cystine
There are far fewer than the physical bonds, but they are stronger and account for another 1/3 of the hairs overall strength

22. Hair Pigment Melanin
All natural hair color is the result of the pigment located within the cortex
Melanin is the tiny grains of pigment in the cortex that give natural color to the hair
Two different types of melanin are eumelanin and pheomelanin

23. Eumelanin
Provides brown and black color to hair

24. Pheomelanin
Provides natural hair colors from red and ginger to yellow/blonde tones

25. Haircolor vs Hair Color
Hair Color refers to the color of hair created by nature
Haircolor is the term used in the industry to refer to artificial haircoloring products
Natural Haircolor is the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin along with the total number and size of pigment granules
Grey Hair is caused by the absence of melanin

26. Hair Analysis Wave Pattern and Tendencies
Hair texture is the thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand
Hair texture can be classified as course, medium and fine

27. Hair Texture
Course hair texture has the largest diameter and has a stronger structure
Medium hair texture is the most common and is the standard to which other hair is compared
Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is more fragile and easier to process

28. Hair Density
Measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch of the scalp. The average is 2200 hair per square inch and 100,000 total
Low density = thin hair
Medium density = Average or normal numbers of hairs per square inch
High density = thick hair or a high numbers per square inch

29. Hair Porosity Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture
Hair with low porosity is considered resistant hair it requires more alkaline solution to raise the cuticle for processing
Hair with average porosity is considered normal hair

30. Types of Porosity
Resistant- cuticle lays close to hair shaft; absorbs slowly and requires longer processing time

31. Good Porosity
Cuticle slightly raised from shaft and absorbs moisture and/or chemicals in average time
Normal Hair that can absorb moisture in average time

32. Overly Porous Hair
Overly porous is often the result of over processing
Hair is damaged, dry, fragile, and brittle
Chemical services require less alkaline solutions with a lower pH to prevent additional over processing

33. Damaged, Over processed Hair
Hair is Dry, Brittle and Fragile
Until damaged hair is cut do not perm

34. Extreme Porosity
Use a lower Ph solution
Proceed with Caution

35. Elasticity
The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking
Normal Elasticity in hair will stretch up to 50% of its original length when wet
Low Elasticity is hair that is brittle and breaks easily; will not hold a curl and is the result of weak side bonds

36. Growth Patterns
Hair Stream is hair flowing in the same direction; result of follicles sloping in the same direction. Two stream flowing in opposite directions create a natural part
Whorl is hair that forms a circular pattern as on the crown
Cowlick is a tuft of hair that stands straight up

37. Dry Hair and Scalp
Dry hair in scalp is caused by inactive sebaceous gland and is aggravated by dry winter or desert climate
The lack of natural oils leads to a flaky scalp and hair appears dull, dry and lifeless

38. Oily Hair and Scalp
Caused by overactive sebaceous gland and characterized by greasy buildup on the scalp and an oily coating on the hair

39. Hair Growth Types of Hair
There are 2 main types of hair found on the body; Vellus (or Lanugo) and Terminal hair
Vellus is short, fine, downy, unpigmented hair covering most of the body except palms and soles of the feet
Terminal hair is long, think pigmented hair found on the scalp, legs, arms and bodies of males and females

40. 3 Growth Cycles of Hair Anagen is the growing phase
Average growth is about 2 inches per month
90% of hair is growing at one time
Grows for a period of from two to six years
Hair grows faster on women than men
Grows faster between ages of and slows sharply after age 50

41. Catagen
Transition phase, ends the growth phase and last only one to two weeks
Follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla
Hair bulb disappears and the shrunken root end forms a rounded club

42. Telogen Resting phase Follicle begins a 3 to 6 month phase of resting
About 10% of hair is in Telogen phase at one time
The cycle then begins again, growth cycle repeats itself every 4 to 5 years

43. 6 Hair Growth Myths Myth #1 question
Clipping, shaving, trimming, and cutting makes hair grow faster ?

44. Fact
They have no effect on hair growth

45. Myth #2
Scalp massage increases hair growth

46. Fact
No evidence to indicate this is true. Minoxidil and Finasteride are the only treatments that have been proven to increase hair growth and are approved for that purpose by the FDA

47. Myth #3
Grey hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair?

48. Fact
Other than lack of pigment, grey hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair. It is not resistant because it is gray, and is not more resistant than pigmented hair on the same persons head

49. Myth #4
Amount of natural curl is determined by racial background?

50. Fact
Anyone of any race can have straight or extremely curly hair

51. Myth #5
Hair with round cross-section is straight; hair with oval cross-section is wavy; hair with flat cross-section is curly?

52. Truth
Cross-sections of straight hair tend to be round and curlier hair tends to be more oval, but cross-sections of hair almost any shape, including triangular; the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl or the shape of the follicle

53. Androgenetic Alopecia
Caused by a combination of heredity, hormones and age causes progressive shrinking or miniaturization of terminal hair, converting it to vellus hair. Known as male pattern baldness
Affects 40 million men in US
Affects 20 million women in US

54. Alopecia Areata
Sudden loss of hair in round or irregular patches; may occur on scalp or anywhere else on body. Its highly unpredictable and affects almost 5 million people in the US

55. Postpartum Alopecia
Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy. Growth cycle generally returns to normal within one year after the baby is delivered

56. 7 Disorders of the Hair
Canities- Congenitial canities is grey hair that is at birth. Acquired canities is both premature and grey hair at old age.
Ringed Hair is alternate bands of gray and dark hair
Hypertrichosis is the growth of terminal hair in areas of the body that normally only grows vellus hair

57. 7 Disorders of the Hair Trichoptilosis- split ends
Trichorrehxis Nodosa- knotted hair; a dry brittle condition including formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft
Monilethrix-beaded hair; hair breaks between the beads or nodes
Fragilitas Crinium- brittle hair that causes splitting

58. Disorders of the Scalp
Dandruff- pityriasis= small white scales that usually appear on the scalp and hair there are 2 types of Pityriasis

59. Pityriasis
Dry Type; characterized by itchy scalp and small white scales attached to the scalp or scattered loosely in the hair. Sluggish scalp is caused by poor circulation, lack of nerve stimulation, improper diet, emotional and glandular disturbances, and poor personal hygiene

60. Pityriasis
Greasy or Wax Type; scales become mixed with sebum, causing them to stick to scalp in patches; medical treatment is advisable

61. .
Both forms are contagious and can be spread by the common use of implements. Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will prevent the spread of this condition

62. Vegetable Parasitic Infections
Tinea is the technical term for Ringworm. It is caused by vegetable parasites and is highly contagious. It begins with a small, reddened patch of little blisters. You should refer client to physician

63. Vegetable Parasitic Infections
Tinea Capitis is ringworm of the scalp and is characterized by red papules or spots at opening of hair follicles causing hair to break

64. Vegetable Parasitic Infections
Tinea Favosa is Honeycomb ringworm and is characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crust on scalp called scutula; it gives off an odor; scars from favus anr pink or white, shiny bald patches. Its very contagious and should be referred to a physician

65. Animal Parasitic Infections
Scabies “itch mite”- highly contagious and caused by itch mite; vesicles and pustules from the irritation of the parasites or from scratching the affected area

66. Animal Parasitic Infections
Pediculosis Capitis is a contagious condition caused by head lice infesting the hair and scalp; itching occurs and resultant scratching can cause infection. Refer to a physician

67. Staphylococci Infections
Furuncle or boil- an infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain and a pustule perforated by hair
Carbuncle- an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci; similar to a furuncle but larger. Refer both to a physician