1. Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing
Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machine Part 1: Single Jersey Jacquard Fabrics
Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing

2. Learning Objectives Definition Knit and Miss Jacquard
Knit and Tuck Jacquard
Knit, tuck and miss jacquard
Other Jacquard fabrics
Drop stitch jacquard
Jacquard Fishnet
Jacquard Inlay
Jacquard Purl
Jacquard Terry

3. Definition Jacquard : A general term for fabrics with knit on pattern
Can you name any non-jacquard fabric ?

4. Definition (II) Mini-jacquard/semi-jacquard/intermediate-jacquard
Jacquard with small pattern area eg E18 double jersey with 2 colours in one square inch
Rib-jacquard
Double Knit jacquard
Knit and Miss Jacquard
Single Knit Jacquard
Self colour Jacquard
Jacquard pattern with surface effect eg tuck eyelets

5. Definition (III) Floatless Jacquard Accordian Miss Fabric
Single Jersey colour jacquard made by knit and tuck
Accordian Miss Fabric
Single jersey jacquard with knit, tuck on the same course. The tuck stitches are used to tie-in the long floats of unwanted colours.

6. Knit and Miss Jacquard fabric

7. Knit and Miss Jacquard
Used for colour pattern on single jersey machine
By sharing the loops of a colour yarn on the fabric surface and hiding those unwanted colour yarns at the back in the form of float stitch

8. Knit + Miss Jacquard Sample
Gauge 5, V-bed Knitting Sample
Technical Back
Technical Face

9. Knit+Miss Jacquard fabric
Eight Gauge V-bed Knitting
Technical Face
Technical Back

10. 2-Colour Knit and
Miss jacquard

11. 3-Colour Knit
and Miss Jacquard

12. Characteristics of Knit+Miss Jacquard Fabric
Narrower width
The float yarn tends to pull the knit loops closer to each other. Eg. 20E plain fabric will have wpi but 2 colour jacquard will have wpi.
Shorter in length
Heavier in weight
The fabric density is higher, together with float yarns at the back. (therefore, 3 or 4 colour is not popular because it is too heavily)
Fabric thickness
It will be thicker and becomes bucker because of extra float yarn

13. Characteristics of Knit+Miss Jacquard Fabric
Surface Appearance
Good surface appearance on colour pattern
Dimensional Stability
High stitch desnity with large amount of float yarn, it is better in dimensional stability than plain fabric.

14. Application
The knit and miss jacquard fabric can almost be produced on any circular sinker top machine.
However, fabric end uses depends on:
machine gauge;
material used;
fabric weight;
fabric properties;
colour pattern and structure

15. End-uses for Single Jacquard fabrics

16. Yarn Arrangement Yarn Tension Control Please discuss above statement.
Positive feed cannot be used, instead the storage feed should be used. Direct yarn feeding from cone to needles will be used for low quality fabric product.
Please discuss above statement.
Yarn Set out on knitting feeders
For 2-colour jacquard patterns, the machine feeders must be in even number. This is because it takes 2 feeders to make one surface course on fabric. Similarly, 3 colour jacquard need the no. of feeders in the multiple of 3.

17. Knit and Tuck Jacquard Fabrics
It is commonly used to produce single colour structure with surface effect of fabric.

18. Knit+Tuck Jacquard Fabric
Note: No float yarn at the back of the fabric
Technical Back
Technical Face

19. Knit + Tuck Jacquard fabric Characteristics
Wider Width
The tuck stitch will increase the width of fabric
eg. KTKTKT (fabric A); KKTKKTKKT (fabric B)
fabric A is wider than B
Shorter length
The tuck loop will reduce the fabric length
KTKT KTKKKTK
KTKT (A) KKTKKKT (B)
KTKT KKKTKKK
fabric A will be shorter than B

20. Knit + Tuck Jacquard Characteristics
Fabric thickness and weight
fabric thickness will increase with the amount of tuck stitch. The fabric density is lower than knit and miss but is still heavier than plain
Dimensional Stability
because of lower fabric density, it is not as stable as knit and miss fabric

21. Knit + Tuck Jacquard Application
Knit and Tuck fabric will never be used for underwear because it is not smooth enough to contact with the skin.

22. Knit, tuck and miss jacquard

23. Knit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard
Also known as selective accordian or 3-way technique.
Similar to knit and miss jacquard, except the insertion of tuck stitch to tie-in the long float threads at predetermined interval.
Eg float length of 11 wales can be reduced to 5 wales by inserting tuck stitch at the middle
fabric A= XX XX
fabric B=XX-----T-----XX

24. Knit + Tuck + Miss Jacquard Characteristics
Similar to knit and miss except the fabric density is lower because of tuck stitch.
Also fabric appearance and colour is not as clear as knit and miss jacquard
Can you tell why ?

25. Modification of single knit colour jacquard fabric
Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knitting
On circular machine, only those installed with automatic striper can change the yarn according to program. Ordinary machine will have to use yarn set out method
Insertion of plain knit on multi-colour pattern
Method 1: just knit the horizontal block in plain with one colour yarn, the fabric thickness will be uneven
Method 2: Leave the unwanted colour yarns to float and tuck at the back to maintain the fabric thickness

26. Multi-colour by 2 colour jacquard knitting

27. Modification of 2-colour jacaurd
Knit+Tuck+Miss
2-colour
All Knit
one colour

28. Color Stripe Single jersey
Technical Face
Technical back
Special Design by mixing of colour yarn, basically
it is a simple plain knit fabric

29. Printed Fabric Technical Face Technical Back
The easy way to distinguish a printed fabric from knitted
jacquard fabric is, the printed fabric only shows the design
on one size.