1. Unit 3 Jewelry and Watches

2. From archaeological excavations, we have learned that jewels have been favored by humans since as early as 20,000 B.C. Materials such as shells, ivory and wood were crafted into imaginative ornamentation.

3. Symbolic purposes of jewelry: 17 th century England, funeral rings were worn to commemorate the deaths of aristocracy.

4. Jewelry is functional as well as an adornment Ex. Belts, Necklaces, Pins & Rings Engagement rings Wedding rings Fraternal pins School rings

5. Historical Overview Some of the earliest finds come from Mesopotamia (region between Syria & Iran) where hammered gold and lapis lazuli stones were discovered. The patterns included leaf designs, flowers & animals

6. Ancient Egypt jewelry featured animal heads, the eye and the ankh. 700 B.C. Greece- simple gold and silver jewelry that featured animal heads and mythological figures.

7. The great period of Chinese jewelry was created from AD 960-1270. Jade is the major precious ingredient found in Chinese jewelry.

8. During the Renaissance period of the 15 th & 16 th centuries elaborate versions of religious symbols were commonplace.

9. 17 th century – Baroque featured grand ornamental designs. Ex. Faceting was used to increase brilliance of the stones; and diamonds overwhelming dominated the scene.

10. 18 th century – Rococo style underplayed the lavishness of Baroque.

11. 19 th century – Victorian England- new technology: Electroplating made jewelry affordable. Lockets and brooches were popular.

12. 20 th century – Art Noveau themes: Lilies, water, butterflies, peacocks, women with long flowing hair Art Deco designs : geometric patterns

13. Native American jewelry types include: Bangle bracelets, earrings, necklaces, belt buckles, and brooches that combine metal and stones. Each tribe contributes a specific style that represents its own culture.

14. Sioux Tribe Lakota Tribe Cherokee Tribe

15. Designs included: Squash blossom – necklaces with silver beads and turquoise. Navajo – heavy silver in symmetrical patterns Zuni – more delicate than Navajo, using stones inlaid in metal

16. Hopi – two layers of metal joined with a design cut in the top layer of metal to expose the lower one. Santo Domingo- primarily beadwork

17. Squash Blossom Navajo Zuni Hopi Santo Domingo

18. Production Techniques After the design has been conceived and sketched, it is ready to be transformed into a piece of jewelry. Fusing – liquefying the metals and joining them without the use of another metal.

19. SolderingSoldering – requires the use of a separate metal that has a lower melting point to join metallic parts. DrawingDrawing – jewelers make thick wires into thinner gauges. Casting – this process involves making a cast or mold into which molten metals are forced.

20. Stone Settings Tiffany setting – is typically used for stones that are to prominently displayed without the intrusion of too much metal. 4-6 prongs in U-shaped openings are used to hold a stone in place. https://youtu.be/3HOVVXdU_w0youtu.be/3HOVVXdU_w0

21. Illusion setting – is used to give the impression that the stone it holds is larger than its actual size. It uses a metal border that features a design that surrounds the prongs. This patterned design creates the illusion of a larger stone.

22. Cluster setting – generally six stones used to surround one in the center.

23. Pave setting – has extensive blank areas that are tooled into little bead-like surfaces that surround a number of small stones (paved with stones) – gives the surface a brilliant effect.

24. Channel setting – the stones are lined up next to each other with no metal between them and set into grooves or channels.

25. Bezel setting – holds a stone in place by a rim of metal that goes around its entire perimeter. Sometimes it is called a flush setting.

26. Buttercup head setting – has six prongs that rise from a scalloped base and resemble a flower bud. It is used for pendants and earrings

27. Paste settings – used for inexpensive jewelry. The stones are glued into the setting.

28. Jewelry Styles Rings – bands worn on fingers Marriage Engagement Graduation Dinner or cocktail

29. Bracelets Bangle Flexible Charm

30. Necklaces Choker – the shortest necklace Bibs – hug the base of the neck Matinee – 22 -24 inches Opera lengths – 30 -32 inches Rope – 45 inches long and may be wrapped around neck

33. Stick pins – elongated decorative types Brooches – Pins Lapel pins – used on suit lapels

34. Earrings Clip–ons – screw backs grip the ears Pierced – posts that pass through the ear lobe. Earring jackets – are made with holes in their centers so that small studs may be inserted in them.

35. Watches – for other than military use, watches achieved acceptance in the mid 1800’s

36. Mechanical watches – dates back several hundred years. Mainspring barrel used Loud ticks

37. For precision, use jeweled movements. (eliminates the noise) 17 jewel movement – uses 17 jewels as friction points on watches.

38. Electronic – first electronic watch went into production in 1956 – power cell used. Advantages Elimination of ticking sound Keeps better time than jewel movements Fewer parts

39. Digital watches – a timepiece that uses solid-state components instead of moving parts and displays the actual time whenever a button is pushed

40. Quartz Watch- a timepiece that has accuracy 10 times greater than that of the conventional watch.