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Chapter 13 Oceans
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13.1 Ocean Currents What is the difference between a current and a wave? Waves are on the surface of water (i.e. - ocean waves at a beach) Currents are below the surface (i.e. – EAC – East Australian Current)
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13.1 Ocean Currents surface currents – currents near the surface of the ocean (warm and/or cold currents) 3 things can change the direction of surface currents: continental deflections – currents change direction because they hit a continent global winds – global winds can blow a current a different direction Coriolis effect – the Earth rotating changes the direction of winds and currents (they do not go straight because the Earth is turning in circles) (i.e. – throwing a ball onto a spinning merry-go-round)
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13.1 Ocean Currents deep currents – currents far below the surface of the ocean (all cold currents) Deep currents travel along the ocean floor
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13.2 Ocean Waves El Niño – a change in the water temperature in the Pacific Ocean that produces a warm current (more severe) La Niña – a change in the eastern Pacific Ocean in which the surface water temperature becomes unusually cool
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13.2 Ocean Waves upwelling – happens near the shore where cold water rises to replace the warm water that has been blown out to sea by wind Upwelling helped to cause the El Niño phenomenon
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13.3 Ocean Waves crest – highest point of a wave
trough – lowest point of a wave wave length – the distance between two wave crests or two wave troughs wave height – the distance between the wave crest and the wave trough wave period – the time it takes for two waves to pass over a fixed point
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13.3 Ocean Waves breaker zone – the near-shore area where waves are at their highest point right as they begin to break or tumble downward Surfers surf on the breaker zone surf – the near-shore area where waves have broken and the water is calmer white caps – white foaming waves with steep crests that break in the open ocean Heavy winds or storms can cause white caps swells – steady waves out in the open ocean
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13.3 Ocean Waves tsunamis – large waves that form in the ocean due to an underwater earthquake, volcanic eruptions, landslides, underwater explosions, or a meteorite hitting the ocean storm surge – a rise in sea level near the shore that was caused by strong winds, hurricanes, or a tsunami
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13.3 Tides high tide – when the water level rises near the shore
low tide – when the water level lowers near the shore
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