1. Vegetative Plant Propagation
Master Gardener Training

2. What is Plant Propagation
Plant propagation is the process of artificially or naturally propagating (distributing or spreading) plants

3. Vegetative Propagation
Vegetative propagation methods include:
Cuttings
Layering
Division
Grafting and budding
Tissue culture

4. Propagation
of plants by Cuttings

5. Cuttings
Cuttings involve removing a piece from the parent plant and that piece then regrows the lost parts or tissues.
New plants can be grown from parts of plants because each living plant cell contains the ability to duplicate all plant parts and functions.
Some plants will reproduce readily from cuttings and others take a considerable amount of time and care.

6. Stock Plants The parent plants used in asexual propagation.
Herbaceous cuttings
Softwood cuttings
Hardwood cuttings
Other forms of cuttings are leaf cuttings and root cuttings
STOCK PLANTS are the parent plants used in asexual propagation.
Stock plants must be in excellent health and should possess characteristics desirable for production of new plants.
Herbaceous cuttings are those taken from non-woody plants, such as perennials and houseplants.
Softwood cuttings are pieces of new growth taken from woody stock plants and must be taken before the new growth starts to harden.
Hardwood cuttings are taken from tissue which has become woody.
Other forms of cuttings are leaf cuttings and root cuttings.

7. Stock Plants (cont’d.)
High humidity, indirect light and soil temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees F are best for most cuttings
The gardener must try to duplicate the conditions needed for a plant to root from a cutting.
High humidity, indirect light and soil temperatures of 70 to 80 degrees F are best for most cuttings.
These conditions may be created by keeping cuttings enclosed under glass or in plastic bags in dappled shade.
Cuttings must be shielded from direct sunlight, especially if they are under glass or plastic.

8. Trademarks Trademarked plants may be marked by the symbols - ® and ™.
Trademarks remain in effect for 10 years and may be renewed indefinitely in 10- year increments
Propagation of trademarked plants may be done asexually by taking cuttings
You can use the cultivar name but cannot use the trademarked name such as Wave Petunias

9. Trademarks
Rosa 'Korlanum' is marketed under three different trademark names, each owned by a different company, SurreyTM, SommerwindTM, and Vente D'eteTM.
Vente D’ete
Surrey
Summer Wind

10. Plant Patents
Propagation of patented plants in any way, shape or form without the owner's permission or until the patent term has expired, is strictly prohibited by federal law.
Patents are for 17 or 20 years and are not renewable.
Website with more plant patent details than you could need
The United States Patent and Trademark Office issue both of these symbols. The first symbol denotes plants with names officially registered and trademarked. The latter means the plant name has been claimed but not officially registered.
An Internet search should help you determine trademark or patent information of a plant.
Jack Frost Brunnera

11. Cercis ‘Ruby Falls’ (USPP 22097)
List of plant patents held and applied for by Plant Haven

12. Types of Cuttings Leaf cuttings Root cuttings Herbaceous stem cuttings
Softwood cuttings
Semi-hardwood cuttings
Hardwood cuttings

13. Leaf Cuttings Plants that can be propagated using leaf cuttings
include African violets, begonias, sedum, jade and Peperomia.
In this method, a leaf blade or leaf with petiole is used to propagate new plants.
Choose a healthy leaf from a vigorously growing plant, cutting it close to the stem with a sharp, disinfested razor or knife.
Trim off 1/4 of the leaf and dip into rooting hormone, if desired, and insert the leaf into rooting medium so that 1/3 of the leaf is below the surface.
One or many new small plants form at the base of the leaf.
With leaf cuttings, the original leaf is not a part of the new plant and is usually discarded.
Plants that can be propagated using leaf cuttings include African violets, begonias, sedum, jade and peperomia.
Crassula streyi
Jade plant

14. Root Formation on Leaf Cuttings
Must initiate both a new root and a new shoot system
(Auxin)
1. The leaf blade, as usual, produces IAA (auxin). This auxin is transported basipetally (down the petiole) as usual.
2. The IAA accumulates in the base of the petiole to the point that a callus tissue (tumor) forms. A callus is a mixture of meristematic cells and parenchyma cells. Since these cells do not have a determined fate, it is possible to influence these cells to differentiate in just about any direction.
3. The IAA continues to accumulate in the callus. The concentration rises to the point that roots are initiated on the callus.
4. The roots produce cytokinins (CK). This hormone is transported acropetally (away from the root tip, toward the callus). The cytokinin accumulates in the callus.
5. As the concentration of cytokinin accumulates in the callus, it stimulates shoot formation. The shoots then can grow up. In the end you have a shoot with roots...a whole plant!
(Cytokynins)

15. Cells of more than one genotype (genetic makeup) are found growing adjacent in the tissues of that plant
Chimera
Variegated plants are perhaps the most common types of chimeras
Cells in the variegated leaf all originated in the apical meristem of the shoot but some cells are characterized by the inability to synthesize chlorophyll

16. Types Stem Cuttings Herbaceous Softwood Semi-Hardwood (greenwood)
Deciduous
Narrowleaf evergreen
Broadleaf evergreen
There are several ways to assess the status of the cutting – color lf leaves and stems, firmness of wood and time the end bud develops are suitable indices for different plants.

17. Stem Cuttings Houseplants Callus No flower buds
Cutting 2-4 inches long with 2-3 leaves
Remove lower leaves (not needed in media)
Poke hole in media/prevents shifting of hormone
Rooting hormone (auxin) in powder or liquid form
Plastic Tent/Indirect light
Stem cuttings are the most commonly used method to produce houseplants.
When a cutting is made, injured xylem and phloem cells plug the tubes so that precious fluids are not lost forming a callus
Cells near the callus area reorganize to form adventitious roots.
Select vigorous, new growth with no flower buds.
Stem sections should be free of diseases and insects, and each cutting should be 2 to 4 inches long and have 2 or 3 leaves attached.
Make a cut 1/4 inch below a leaf node and pull off the leaves that are at the nodes that will be below the surface of the rooting medium.
Poke a hole in the medium before inserting the cutting to avoid loss a rooting hormone and insert the treated cutting in a moist rooting medium. Any disinfested container with drainage is acceptable for use.
Cover container and cutting with a plastic bag tent to maintain high humidity and place it in a warm area with indirect light.
Check the rooting medium every few days to make sure it remains moist.
After a few weeks, test for rooting by gently tugging at the cutting. If there is resistance, rooting has started and the plastic cover may be removed.
Callus=scar. Xylem=a complex tissue in the vascular system of higher plants that consists of vessels, tracheids, or both usually together with wood fibers and parenchyma cells, functions chiefly in conduction of water and dissolved minerals but also in support and food storage, and typically constitutes the woody element (as of a plant stem). Phloem=a complex tissue in the vascular system of higher plants that consists mainly of sieve tubes and elongated parenchyma cells usually with fibers and that functions in translocation and in support and storage. Rooting hormone helps to stimulate rooting. A suitable rooting medium is half perlite and half sphagnum peat moss

18. Stem Cuttings (cont’d.)
Preparing the cutting
Planting the cutting

19. Herbaceous Cuttings Made from non-woody, herbaceous plants
Herbaceous perennials, annuals
3 to 5” piece of stem is cut from the parent plant
Leaves on the lower one-third to one-half of the stem are removed
High percentage of the cuttings root, and they do so quickly.

20. Softwood Cuttings Softwood cuttings are taken from first-year branches
Late spring/early summer
Emerging shoots
However not so green that it wilts immediately after being cut
Use diagonal cut
Make cuttings 2 - 5” long with several nodes
Cuts slightly below a leaf node
Softwood cuttings are taken from first-year branches that have not yet become woody.
Late spring and early summer are the best times for success with this method.
Make a diagonal cut. The larger diagonal cut gives more area to develop roots. Keep cuttings in water before moving them into rooting medium.
Rooting time for a softwood cutting may vary from 7-10 days

21. Softwood Cuttings
Rooting time may vary from 7-10 days to 3-5 weeks or more depending on genus
Tug test
Reduce mist after rooting to prevent rot

22. Semi-Hardwood Cuttings
Broadleaf and needled evergreens, deciduous trees/shrubs
Time varies based on cutting type
3-6” long
Benefit of semi hardwood over softwood is that they are not as susceptible to desiccation problems as softwood

23. Semi-Hardwood Cuttings
Type of Cutting
Best Time to Cut
Broadleaf Evergreens
Mid-July to early September
Deciduous
Summer
Needled Evergreens
September into Winter
Most needled evergreens benefit from cold temperatures

24. Hardwood Cuttings Types Deciduous Broadleaf Evergreen
Lost leaves Oct./Nov. and carry through to late winter
Last season’s growth
6-20” long
See methods to right
Bottom heat beneficial
Broadleaf Evergreen
Jan. - March
Needled Evergreen
Late fall and winter – greenhouse conditions
4-8” long
Bottom heat – heated bins with the bottom of the cutting exposed to 70 deg. And the tops maintained at cool temperatures, treated with ppm rooting hormone and left for 4 weeks – after callusing the cuttings are planted before the buds break into growth
Plastic bag – cuttings are prepared, dipped into a hormone ( ppm), sealed in poly-bags and placed in the dark at 50 deg.. After callusing/rooting they are planted out.
Winter temperature – discussed on next slide
Warm temperature – cuttings taken in fall, treated with hormone, stored under moist conditions around 70 deg. For 3-5 weeks. After this, cuttings may be out-planted in mild climates or held in cold storage until spring and then out-planted.
Outdoor ground beds – bottom-heated (70 deg. F) outdoor ground beds root well when planted in Jan. – March – on some plants (forsythia) doesn’t work so well when planted closer to bud break.

25. Hardwood Cuttings
Hardwood cutting

26. Hardwood Cuttings Manipulation Bottom heat Plastic Bag
Winter treatment
Warm temperature
Outdoor ground beds
w/bottom heat

27. Hardwood Cuttings – Winter Treatment
Cuts at a slant, 5 to 12 inches long
Treat with rooting hormone
Bundle together buried outside or in suitable structure with tops down in sand/sawdust or soil level
Callus
In spring, plant cuttings in a hotbed or other protected site with morning sun exposure or filtered light.
Keep cuttings moist until a root system forms
Basal cuts should be just below a node, while the upper cut should be slightly above a bud.

28. Root Formation on Leaf-Bud, Herbaceous, Softwood and Hardwood Cuttings
Only necessary that a new adventitious root system be formed
Shoot system is already present

29. Root Cuttings Take cuttings from newer root growth
Dormant season (Dec.-March)
Younger plants/closer to main stems/trunk – better rooting
Roots can be dug, cleaned, “fungicided” and stored
Must retain polarity while storing
Closest to stem (proximal)– straight cut and planted “upright”
Distal End – Slanted cut
Cultivation of root cuttings probably started after gardeners observed new plants growing from pieces of root accidentally left behind in the soil.
Take cuttings from newer root growth, making cuttings 1 to 6 inches long from roots that are 1/8 to 1/2 inch in diameter.
Cuttings should be taken during the dormant season when roots have large carbohydrate supplies.
Cut the other end on a slant. This allows you to remember which end is the top (the straight cut) and which is the bottom (the diagonal cut).
Store cuttings from dormant roots for 3 weeks in moist rooting medium at 40 degrees F.

30. Root Cuttings
Store cuttings for 3 weeks in moist rooting medium at 40 degrees F.
Remove from storage and plant upright in the growing medium or horizontally in flats covered with ½” of medium
Bottom heat may prove beneficial

31. Root Cuttings
If root cuttings are taken during active growth, skip the storage period and place cuttings directly in the rooting medium.
For smaller plants, take 1- to 2-inch sections and place cuttings horizontally a half inch below the surface of the rooting medium.

32. Root Formation in Root Cuttings
Must initiate both a new shoot system from an adventitious bud as well as adventitious roots
Used to propagate plants that naturally produce suckers (new shoots) from their roots
Naturally free of foliar pests or nematodes
Root cuttings are used to propagate plants that naturally produce suckers (new shoots) from their roots. Root cuttings require no special aftercare needed for aerial cuttings, large numbers of new plants can be generated from each parent plant and the plants derived from root cuttings are relatively large and vigorous. Finally root cuttings are taken in the quiet season in winter when gardeners' hands are not as full as in summer.
Another bonus is that plants from root cuttings are free of foliar pests and pathogens that might affect their parents, such as stem and leaf nematodes.
Herbaceous plants that take well from root cuttings often have thick or fleshy roots. Some plants, such as Papaver and Primula denticulata, do not take from shoot cuttings, although they will grow well from root cuttings.

33. Plants that can be propagated by root cuttings
Acanthus mollis
Amsonia
Brugmansia
Chaenomeles speciosa\
Cornus stolonifera
Dicentra species
Echinops
Epimedium
Ficus carica
Geranium spp.
Hydrangea spp.
Malus spp.
Phlox spp.
Populus alba
Rhus spp.
Rosa spp.
Syringa vulgaris
               

34. Layering
Layering causes roots to develop on shoots that are still attached to the parent plant.
The stem is not cut from the main plant until it has rooted.
Simple layering is done by bending a branch to the ground and burying a portion of it while the tip remains uncovered.
Treatment with rooting hormone is helpful.

35. Layering, continued
Layering is done in early spring while plants are still dormant or in late summer on wood that has not become woody.
Other types of layering include compound, trench and mound layering.

36. Air Layering
Air layering can be used to propagate large, overgrown house plants such as rubber plants.
Woody ornamentals such as azalea, camellia, magnolia, oleander, and holly can also be propagated by air layering.
See notes explaining monocots and dicots

37. Air Layering, continued
For optimum rooting, make air layers in the spring on shoots produced during the previous season or in mid to late summer on shoots from the current season’s growth.
For woody plants, stems of pencil size diameter or larger are best.
Choose an area just below a node and remove leaves and twigs on the stem 3 to 4 inches above and below this point.

38. Air Layering, continued
With a sharp knife, make two parallel cuts about an inch apart around the stem and through the bark and cambium layer.
Connect the two parallel cuts with one long cut and remove the ring of bark, leaving the inner woody tissue exposed.
Scrape the newly bared ring to remove the cambial tissue to prevent a bridge of callus tissue from forming.
For monocots, make an upward 1- to 1 1/2-inch cut about one-third through the stem. The cut is held open with a toothpick or wooden match stick.

39. Air Layering, continued
Surround the wound with moist, unmilled sphagnum moss (about a handful) that has been soaked in water and squeezed to remove excess moisture.
Wrap the moss with plastic and hold in place with twist ties or electrician’s tape.
Fasten each end of the plastic securely, to retain moisture and to prevent water from entering.
After the rooting medium is filled with roots, sever the stem below the medium and pot the layer.

40. Division
Division is the cutting or breaking up of a crown or clump of suckers into segments.
Each segment must have a bud and some roots.
These segments are replanted and grow into new plants identical to the parent.

41. Division
Most perennials should be lifted and divided when they become overgrown and begin to lose vigor.
Vigorous growth in most perennials occurs on the outer segments of the clump.
Carefully dig the plant, loosening the roots and lifting the plant from the soil.
Split apart the main clump with two spades or forks or chop with a shovel or hatchet if the clump is firmly massed.

42. Division
In some cases outside segments of the plant can be removed and replanted without disturbing the rest of the plant.
A good rule of thumb is to divide fall-flowering perennials in spring and spring- and summer-flowering perennials in fall.

43. Bulbs and Corms
Bulbs can be propagated by removing small bulblets or offsets that form at the base of the parent bulb.
These small bulbs take 2 or 3 years to mature into plants that flower.
Many lilies can be multiplied by removing scales from the mature bulb.
See notes on bulbs vs. corms.
Corm (Crocus)
Bulb (Tulips)

44. Bulbs and Corms
Place offsets in rich, light soil for their development, and this same procedure should be followed for plants which form from corms, such as gladiolus.
Dust the scale with a fungicide and place, base end down, in a moist growing medium in a warm, protected area. Bulblets will form at the base of the scale.
In 1 to 4 years these bulblets will grow and be ready to flower.

45. Tubers and Rhizomes
Tuberous plants can be dug up and the tubers separated.
In separating the tubers, each must have a segment of the crown that contains at least one eye or bud.
Rhizomes grow and develop buds along their length.
The rhizomes can be dug and cut into sections that each contain at least one eye or bud.
Rhizomes
Tubers

46. Grafting
Grafting involves the joining of different segments of two different plants of the same species.
Grafting is usually done in the spring and involves collecting small branches called scion wood
In grafting, the cambium layers of the two different segments are aligned and grow together.
Rejected grafting=called graft incompatibility.

47. Grafting (cont’d.)
Grafting allows gardeners to produce plants identical to a parent plant.
It also allows growers to control size and shape of a tree or shrub.
On the negative side, some grafting attempts will be rejected.
Some grafted trees or plants produce large numbers of suckers which can crowd out the desired plant or tree and are unsightly.

48. Budding or Bud Grafting
Bud grafting is faster, easier and less messy than other forms of grafting. Cambium layers do not need to be aligned.
Bud grafting is done from early July through early August.
This method uses a newly developed latent bud, taken from under a live leaf.

49. Micropropagation or Tissue Culture
Each plant cell has the potential to grow into a new plant exactly like the parent.
In tissue culture, individual or small groups of plant cells are manipulated so they each produce a new plant.
A tiny piece of bud, leaf or stem can produce incredible numbers of new plants in a small space in a short time.

50. Micropropagation or Tissue Culture
The advantages of tissue culture, in addition to speed and efficiency of propagation, include production of disease-free plants and new plants can be made available to the public more quickly because of tissue culture.
Absolutely sterile conditions must be maintained, and temperature, light, humidity and atmosphere are strictly controlled with electronic sensors and computerized controls.
Such costly equipment rules this out for most home gardeners.

51. Questions?