2. Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 1.4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 1.4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 1.4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 1.4 Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 1.4 12.1 Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program Chemical Texturizing Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program

3. STRUCTURE OF HAIR CUTICLE A tough outer layer of hair surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage. The cuticle consists of seven or more overlapping layers. Alkaline solutions soften and swell the hair, raising the cuticle and allowing the solution to penetrate into the cortex.

4. CORTEX This middle layer is a major component of hair. Polypeptide chains are connected by end bonds, and crosslinked by side bonds that form fibers and structure of hair. Breaking the side bonds of the cortex makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern. All physical and chemical actions take place in the cortex.

5. PEPTIDE BONDS (END BONDS) Peptide bonds join amino acids together, forming long chains called polypeptide chains. These chains are long, coiled, complex proteins made up of many different amino acids linked together like beads. Peptide bonds should not be broken; this could cause the polypeptide chains to come apart and dramatically weaken the hair, causing breakage.

6. SIDE BONDS The cortex—is made up of millions of polypeptide chains Crosslinked by three types of side or cross bonds –Disulfide bonds –Salt bonds –Hydrogen bonds

7. Formed between two cysteine amino acids Located on neighboring polypeptide chains Join cysteine sulfur atoms from two different polypeptide chains to form cystine (oxidized form of cysteine) DISULFIDE BONDS

8. Stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds. Weaker than peptide bonds. Cannot be broken by heat or water. Account for about one third of hair’s overall strength. Chemical and physical changes in disulfide bonds are what make chemical texture services possible.

9. SALT BONDS Side or cross bonds Relatively weak and result from an attraction between opposite electrical charges Easily broken by changes in pH Re-form when pH returns to normal Weaker than disulfide bonds, but due to quantity, account for about one third of hair’s strength

10. HYDROGEN BONDS Relatively weak and result from an attraction between opposite electrical charges Easily broken by water Re-forms as the hair dries or cools Individually weak but their quantity accounts for about one third of hair’s total strength

11. Hair before processing The disulfide (chemical) bonds give hair its strength and firmness. These bonds must be broken down to allow the perming process to occur. CHEMICAL ACTION ON HAIR POLYPEPTIDECHAINSPOLYPEPTIDECHAINS DISULFIDE BONDS

12. Waving lotion breaks the disulfide bonds and softens hair. The hair is then molded to the shape of the rod. PROCESSING

13. When the hair has assumed the new desired shape of the rod, the broken disulfide bonds must be chemically rebonded with the neutralizer. NEUTRALIZING

14. Its function is to permanently establish new curl shape. If hair is not properly neutralized, it will relax within a few shampoos. It is composed of a small percent of H ² O ² at an acidic pH. Procedures vary by product; always follow directions carefully. THE CHEMISTRY OF NEUTRALIZER

15. CONSULTATION GUIDELINES  Introduce self; greet client by name  Ask open-ended questions  Review photos with client  Ask about past texture services  Ask about current style; discuss changes that will occur  Evaluate condition, texture, and wave pattern of the hair  Fill out client consultation card CLIENT CONSULTATION

16. CLIENT RECORD Include a complete hair analysis. Record previous problems or adverse reactions. Record service details: –Record type of product used –Type and size of perm rods used –Wrapping technique used –Processing time –Results Update records with each service.

17. CLIENT RELEASE FORM Should be signed prior to a service May or may not release school or salon from responsibility Indicates that the client knew there was a possibility of damage to hair

18. HAIR AND SCALP ANALYSIS Look for cuts, scratches, or open sores; do not proceed with service if skin abrasions or a scalp disease is present. Hair is the fastest growing appendage of the human body. Hair is affected by diet, exercise, medications, and stress. The five most important factors in hair analysis are –texture. –density. –porosity. –elasticity. –growth direction.

19.  Hair texture describes the diameter of a single strand of hair, and is classified as fine, medium, or coarse  Coarse hair usually requires more processing time; may be resistant; more difficult to penetrate.  Medium hair is most common; considered normal and does not pose special problems.  Fine hair is fragile; easier to process and more susceptible to damage; hair will process faster and more easily than medium or coarse hair. HAIR TEXTURE

20. TEXTURE CourseMedium Fine

21. DENSITY Density refers to the number of hairs per square inch on the head. By assessing density, you will determine the size of the partings to be used. Thick hair requires small partings. Thin hair can use slightly larger partings.

22. FOUR TYPES OF POROSITY Resistant—cuticle lays close to hair shaft; absorbs waving lotion slowly; requires longer processing time and stronger solution. Good porosity—cuticle slightly raised from shaft; absorbs moisture and/or chemicals in average time. Porous hair—made porous by treatments; absorbs lotion quickly; requires shortest processing time; use a lower pH solution. Overly-porous hair—damaged, dry, brittle, fragile; reconditioning or cutting required before perming. You may use a prewrap lotion to even porosity.

23.  Tight compact cuticle  Hair lays flat on shaft RESISTANT HAIR

24.  Cuticle slightly raised  Normal hair  Can absorb moisture in average time GOOD POROSITY

25.  Use a lower PH solution.  Proceed with caution. EXTREME POROSITY

26.  Hair is  dry.  brittle.  fragile.  Until hair is cut, do not perm. DAMAGED, OVERPROCESSED HAIR

27. POROSITY TEST Hold end of hair; slide fingers down on hair toward scalp. If hair is smooth and cuticle is dense, the hair will be resistant and will not easily absorb perm solution. If you feel slight roughness, cuticle is open and hair is porous.

28. HAIR ELASTICITY Is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to normal shape without breaking Indicates the strength of the side bonds Determines the hair’s ability to hold a curl Classified as: –Normal—can stretch up to 50% of its length and return without breaking –Low—does not return to its original shape when stretched

29. DIRECTION OF HAIR GROWTH Direction of hair growth causes hair streams, whorls, and cowlicks that influence finished styles, and should be considered when selecting the base direction and waving pattern for a permanent wave.

30. PERMANENT WAVING A Two-Step Process Physical change—the act of wrapping sections of hair around a perm rod Chemical change—caused by the permanent waving solution and the neutralizer

31. THE PERM WRAP Size, shape, and type of curl are determined by the type of rod used for wrapping. Perm solution softens the hair to conform to the shape of the rod used. Tension produces the curl; too much tension can cause breakage. Keep hair wet and wrap with uniform, even tension.

32. SECTIONING Panels – Size, shape, and direction of panels vary based on type of wrapping pattern. Base sections – Panels are divided into subsections called base sections. – Size of base section is determined by the length and width of the rod.

33. BASE CONTROL Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section Is determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped

34. ON-BASE PLACEMENT Hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section. Rod is positioned on its base section.

35. HALF-OFF-BASE PLACEMENT Hair is wrapped at a 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to its base section. Rod is positioned half off its base section. This positioning minimizes stress and tension on the hair.

36. OFF-BASE PLACEMENT Hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section. Rod is positioned completely off its base section. Creates least amount of volume and curl pattern that begins away from the scalp.

37. BASE DIRECTION Refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head –Horizontally –Vertically –Diagonally Also refers to the directional pattern in which hair is wrapped –Backward –Forward –To one side Wrapping against the natural growth pattern causes excess stress that may damage or break the hair.

38. WRAPPING TECHNIQUES Croquignole wrapping—The hair strands are wrapped from ends to the scalp in overlapping layers. The curl is tighter on the ends and gets larger nearer the scalp. Spiral wrapping—Hair is wound from ends to the scalp with most rods. The angle at which the hair is wrapped causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod. This technique causes a uniform curl from scalp to ends. Croquignole Spiral

39. ROD TYPES Concave rods Straight rods Long and short rods, and the contours of the head

40. SOFT BENDER RODS Are about 12 inches long Have uniform diameter along entire length Have soft foam with a stiff inner wire Can be used with a croquignole or spiral wrapping technique

41. CIRCLE TOOL OR LOOP ROD Are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter Are ideal for wrapping extremely long hair Form a circle when fastened together

42. END PAPERS They are also known as end wraps. They are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping. Papers should extend beyond ends of hair to prevent “fishhooks.” Double flat wrap uses end papers, one placed under and one over hair strand; both papers extend past hair ends. Double flat wrap

43. END PAPERS Single flat wrap uses one end paper placed over top of strand of hair being wrapped. Bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over hair ends like an envelope. This eliminates excess paper, and can be used with short rods or with very short lengths of hair. Bookend wrap Single flat wrap

44. CHEMISTRY OF PERM WAVING

45. REDUCTION Waving solution softens and swells the hair. This raises the cuticle and permits solution to penetrate cortex. Once in the cortex, solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. In permanent waving, the reaction is a result of the addition of hydrogen. Hair saturated with alkaline solution with a pH of 9.5 for five minutes The same hair saturated with acid- balanced pH of 7.5 for five minutes

46. REDUCTION Disulfide bonds join a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a second sulfur atom on a neighboring polypeptide chain. Solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond. Sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the solution, breaking their attachment to each other. Once broken, polypeptide chains are able to be reshaped into new curls.

47. REDUCING AGENTS Thio compounds are commonly referred to as Thio. Thioglycolic acid is the most common thio. –It is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. –It provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction in permanent waving solutions. Strength of solutions is determined by the concentration of thio. –Stronger solutions have a higher concentration of thio with a greater number of hydrogen atoms. –The greater the hydrogen atoms available, the more disulfide bonds are broken.

48. REDUCING AGENTS Thioglycolic acid does not swell hair or penetrate the cortex. – The manufacturer has to add an alkalizing agent. – When ammonia is added, a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate is formed (which is alkaline). Ammonium thioglycolate is t he main active ingredient in alkaline perms. Perm pH – Second factor in overall strength of permanent waving solution. – Coarse hair with strong, resistant cuticle layer may need additional swelling and penetration. – The pH of solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer.

49. TYPES OF PERMANENT WAVES Alkaline Waves or Cold Waves – First developed in 1941 using ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) – Known as cold waves because they process at room temperature – Usually have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 pH scale of various perms

50. TRUE ACID WAVES Were introduced in early 1970s. Usually have a pH of 4.5 to 7.0. Require heat for processing. Main active ingredient—glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG), which is acid and has a low pH. Acid waves process more slowly and do not produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves. – They have a pH below 7.0. – A pH of 5.0 is neutral for hair because pH is calculated on a logarithmic scale; a pH of 7.0 is 100 times more alkaline than the pH of hair; therefore, acid waves can swell the hair.

51. ACID-BALANCED WAVES AND COMPONENTS Most of these have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2, which means they are not true acid waves. Modern acid waves are acid- balanced, and process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. Components –Permanent waving solution –Activator –CAUTION: Adding activator to neutralizer by accident will cause a violent chemical reaction that can cause injury, especially to eyes. –Neutralizer

52. EXOTHERMIC WAVES AND COMPONENTS These create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing. Waving solution contains thio. Activator contains an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide). – Mixing oxidizer with solution causes a rapid release of heat and an increase of temperature of the solution. – Heat increases the rate of the chemical reaction and reduces the processing time.

53. ENDOTHERMIC WAVES These are activated by an outside heat source. Usually a conventional hood dryer is used. These will not process properly at room temperature.

54. AMMONIA-FREE PERMS Main ingredient does not evaporate as readily as ammonia. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and monoethanolamine (MEA) are examples of alkanolamines that are used as substitutes for ammonia. Odor is reduced but damage can still occur.

55. THIO-FREE WAVES These use a reducing agent other than ammonium thioglycolate such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, which are thio compounds. At high concentration, the reducing agents in thio-free waves can be as damaging as thio.

56. LOW-pH WAVES Not very popular Weak and do not provide a firm curl Usually marketed as body waves Sulfate, sulfite, and bisulfite alternatives to ammonium thioglycolate

57. SELECTING THE RIGHT TYPE OF PERM It is important to select the right type of perm for each client. Every client has hair with its own distinct texture and condition. Individual needs must be addressed. Choose the type of perm best suited to your client’s hair type, condition, and desired results.

58. PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING Most processing takes place in the first 5 to 10 minutes. Additional time allows polypeptide chains to shift to new configuration.

59. PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING OVERPROCESSED HAIR This does not necessarily mean extremely curly. If too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl. Hair at scalp is usually stronger than ends, so overprocessed hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends. UNDERPROCESSED HAIR If too few disulfide bonds are broken, hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not hold the desired curl. Hair at scalp is usually not as curly as the ends. More processing will make it curlier.

60. PERMANENT WAVING NEUTRALIZATION This is the process of stopping the action of a waving solution and hardening hair in its new form. It deactivates any waving lotion remaining in hair. It rebuilds the disulfide bonds into their new shape. Neutralizers are oxidizers. The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide. Concentrations vary between 5 volume and 10 volume.

61. STAGE ONE OF NEUTRALIZING The first function is deactivation of waving solution that remains in hair after rinsing. Rinse hair for five full minutes. Towel-blot each rod thoroughly several times using dry towels. If directed, apply a preneutralizing conditioner. – This is an acidic liquid protein conditioner. – Follow manufacturers’ directions for use.

62. STAGE TWO OF NEUTRALIZING Solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to sulfur atoms. Neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra hydrogen atoms. Hydrogen atoms attract to oxygen in neutralizer, release bond with sulfur atoms, and join with oxygen. Each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to rebuild disulfide bond and make one molecule of water. Water is removed in final rinse. Disulfide bonds form in their new curled position.

63. NEW DISULFIDE PAIRS Neutralizer removes extra hydrogen atoms. Each sulfur atom forms a bond with a nearby sulfur atom. Strength of newly formed disulfide bond pairs holds the hair in its new shape.

64. POST-PERM HAIR CARE A properly neutralized perm is stable, and a waiting period before shampooing is not necessary. Shampoo with a mild, acid-balanced shampoo; this should not cause excessive relaxation or damage to the hair or scalp. Modern day demipermanent, deposit- only haircolors can be used safely on freshly permed, properly neutralized hair.

65. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Protect client’s clothing. Do not give service if client is allergic to products. Discard unused products. Do not dilute or add ingredients. Keep solution away from eyes and skin. Always follow manufacturers’ directions. Wear gloves while applying solutions. Replace wet cotton or towels. Examine scalp prior to service. Do not perm excessively damaged or broken hair. Do not perm hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxers. Perform test for metallic salts. Apply protective barrier cream around hairline and ears.

66. METALLIC SALTS Are not compatible with permanent waving solutions Leave a coating on the hair May cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage Are common in men’s haircolors sold for home use Usually found in restorers and progressive haircolors that darken hair gradually with repeated applications

67. TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS Use glass or plastic bowl. Mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia. Immerse 20 strands or more of hair in solution for 30 minutes. If metallic salts are not present, hair will lighten slightly and you may proceed with service. If metallic salts are present, hair will lighten rapidly, the solution will get hot and give off an unpleasant odor and do not proceed with service.

68. SUMMARY Hair structure has a significant impact on the physical and chemical actions that occur in permanent waving. Proper hair and scalp analysis, as well as a client consultation, must be completed before a perm service. Hair condition, texture, length, porosity, and elasticity will effect the rod size and product you choose. Depending on the client’s desired results, you will choose one of many products and wrapping patterns.

69. PERMANENT WAVING PROCEDURES

70. PERMANENT WAVE PROCEDURES Basic wrapping methods can be combined to create a wide variety of specialized perm wraps. This will provide an unlimited number of styling options.

71. BASIC PERM WRAP This is also known as a straight set wrap. All rods within a panel move in the same direction. All rods are positioned on equal-size bases. All base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.

72. CURVATURE PERM WRAP The movement curves within sectioned-out panels. Partings and bases radiate to follow the curvature of the head. Wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped sections in curvature areas.

73. BRICKLAY PERM WRAP This is similar to the actual technique of bricklaying. Base sections are offset by rows; this is done to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair. Use different starting points when wrapping.

74. WEAVE WRAP Uses zigzag partings to divide base areas Can be used in whole or in part throughout head Is effective for blending between perm rods Can be used with various base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm rods Figure 15-41

75. PIGGYBACK WRAP This is also called a double tool wrap. Two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other.

76. SPIRAL PERM WRAP Hair is held at an angle that causes it to spiral along the length of the rod. Layers may partially overlap as they go along. Longer, thicker hair will benefit from this effect. Conventional rods, bendable soft foam rods, and circle rods can be used.

77. PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS These are beneficial because they help to predict the results of the perm; also results from the product used and from the rod size and wrapping technique. Perform a preliminary test curl if hair is damaged or outcome is uncertain. Make sure you adhere to the correct processing time for optimal curl development.

78. PARTIAL PERMS These perms use the same techniques and wrapping patterns as those used with other perms. To make a smooth transition from rolled section to unrolled section, use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section. Applying waving lotion to unrolled hair may straighten it or make it difficult to style. To protect unrolled hair, apply a protective barrier cream to unrolled section before applying waving lotion.

79. PERMS FOR MEN Male clients also look for added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide. Perms help thin hair look fuller. Perms make straight or coarse hair more manageable. Perms control stubborn cowlicks. Perm techniques for men and women are essentially the same.

80. SUMMARY We have established that a perm will probably be your most frequently requested chemical service. –Hair and scalp analysis is essential for successful results in permanent waving. –Rod selection is based on hair length and hair texture. –Wrapping pattern will be determined by the desired style. –The perm procedure involves waving lotion to break down the side bonds. –Neutralizer rehardens hair into its new curly shape. –Follow all safety precautions when working with chemicals. –Always put the safety and comfort of your client first and foremost in your work.

81. CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS

82. CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight or less curly form. The chemical process is very similar although the results are opposite from permanent waving hair. The chemistry of thio relaxers and permanent waving is exactly the same. All relaxing and permanent waving services change the shape of the hair by breaking disulfide bonds.

83. TWO MOST COMMON TYPES Ammonium thioglycolate –Also known as thio relaxers Sodium hydroxide –Also called hydroxide relaxers

84. CHARACTERISTICS Highly alkaline; can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly. Most use same ingredients as depilatories.

85. EXTREMELY CURLY HAIR This type of hair exists in all races. All races can have hair with different degrees of curliness. This hair grows in long twisted spirals or coils. Cross-sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness. The hair is irregular in diameter along a single strand. Twists of extremely curly hair are the weakest, and that’s where hair will usually break.

86. THIO RELAXERS These usually have a pH above 10. Main ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate. These usually have a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than used in permanent waving. These are thicker, with a higher viscosity that is more suitable for application as a relaxer. They break disulfide bonds and soften hair. After enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new shape and relaxer is rinsed from hair.

87. THIO NEUTRALIZATION The neutralizer is an oxidizing agent—usually hydrogen peroxide. The reaction rebuilds disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer.

88. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient.  Sodium hydroxide  Potassium hydroxide  Lithium hydroxide  Guanidine hydroxide All types of hydroxide relaxers have strong alkalis that can swell hair up to twice its normal diameter

89. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS These are not compatible with thio relaxers. They have a pH of 13.0 or more. Because each step in the pH scale is a tenfold change in concentration, a pH of 13.0 is 100 million times more alkaline than a pH of 5.0.

90. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond and convert it to a lanthionine bond by a process called lanthionization. – Disulfide bonds contain two sulfur atoms. – Lanthionine bonds contain one sulfur atom. Disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be re-formed.

91. HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION This process does not involve oxidation. Deactivation occurs by using an acid- balanced shampoo or a normalizing lotion. CAUTION: Hair that has been treated with hydroxide relaxers is unfit for thio relaxers or soft curl permanents.

92. TYPES OF HYDROXIDE RELAXERS

93. METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS These are ionic compounds formed by a metal that is combined with oxygen and hydrogen. Metal hydroxide relaxers include: –Sodium hydroxide relaxers commonly called lye relaxers or caustic soda; this is the most common type of hair relaxer. It’s the same chemical as used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories. –Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, which are often advertised as “no mix-no lye” relaxers. They are not “lye,” but their chemistry and performance is identical.

94. GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE RELAXERS Are advertised and sold as “no lye” relaxers Hydroxide the active ingredient Require two components that must be mixed Straighten hair completely Irritate scalp less than hydroxide relaxers Recommended for sensitive scalps Sold over the counter Reduce scalp irritation Do not reduce hair damage Swell hair more than other hydroxide relaxers and are also more drying

95. LOW pH RELAXERS Sulfites and bisulfites are sometimes used as low-pH hair relaxers. The most commonly used are ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite. They are compatible with thio relaxers. They are not compatible with hydroxide relaxers. They do not completely straighten extremely curly hair. Low pH relaxers are intended for use on color- treated hair.

96. BASE AND NO-BASE RELAXERS BASE RELAXERS These require application of a base cream. A base cream is an oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing. NO-BASE RELAXERS Protective base is not required. These contain a base cream that melts at body temperature. Protective base cream may be applied around ears and hairline.

97. RELAXER STRENGTHS Available in Three Strengths Mild—for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair Regular—intended for normal hair texture Super—used on extremely curly, coarse hair

98. CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING PROCEDURES

99. HYDROXIDE RELAXER Many steps for both thio and hydroxide relaxers are the same. All hydroxide relaxers follow the same procedure, but different application methods are used for virgin and retouch relaxers.

100. VIRGIN RELAXER This application is used only for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services. Product is applied ¼ to ½ an inch from scalp up to the porous ends. To avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, do not apply relaxer to scalp hair or ends until last few minutes of processing.

101. RETOUCH RELAXER This application is used for hair that has had previous chemical texture services. Application starts ¼ to ½ inch away from scalp and includes new growth only. To avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, do not apply relaxer to the scalp until the last few minutes of processing. Normalizing solution is a conditioner with an acidic pH that conditions the hair and restores the natural pH after rinsing out the.relaxer and prior to shampooing.

102. PERIODIC STRAND TESTING This test indicates when hair is sufficiently relaxed. After relaxer is applied, stretch strands to see how fast natural curls are being removed. If strand remains smooth, it’s sufficiently relaxed. If curl returns, continue processing.

103. THIO RELAXER PROCEDURES Application steps are the same for hydroxide relaxers except that the neutralization procedure is different. Relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or back of rattail comb.

104. SOFT CURL PERMANENT Soft curl permanents do not straighten hair. They make existing curl larger and looser. This is also called a Jheri curl. A combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent is wrapped on large rods. Soft curl perms use ammonium thioglycolate and oxidation neutralizers.

105. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation. Examine the scalp for abrasions. Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services. Have client sign release statement. Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair previously treated with thio relaxer and vice versa. Do not chemically relax hair treated with a metallic dye. Do not relax overly damaged hair. Do not shampoo the client prior to a hydroxide relaxer service. Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation.

106. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wear gloves during the relaxer application. Protect the client’s eyes. Do not allow chemical relaxers to contact client’s ears, scalp, or skin. Perform periodic strand tests. Avoid scratching scalp with comb or fingernails. Do not allow application of a relaxer retouch to overlap onto previously relaxed hair. Never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair.

107. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Do not attempt to remove more than 80 percent of the natural curl. Thoroughly rinse chemical relaxer from the hair. Use a normalizing lotion to restore hair to natural pH. Use neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator to guarantee that hair and scalp have been restored to normal acidic pH. Use a conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing out tangles. Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair.

108. SUMMARY One of the best ways to control the texture of your client’s extremely curly hair is through the use of chemical relaxers. Sodium hydroxide is used most often in hair relaxing. Thorough hair and scalp examination is critical before giving any type of chemical service; it will also help you to determine the type of product and strength of product to be used. A strand test will guide you in how long the product should be left on the hair.

109. SUMMARY Follow manufacturers’ directions. The speed attained in applying relaxer is very important in the service. Extensive practice using mock products will help you gain speed of application. It is important to review, remember, and practice all the safety precautions identified for these services. Remember never to relax the hair more than 80 percent.