1. Ocean Movements

2. Ocean Waves Essential Question Objectives How does ocean water work?
Identify parts of a wave
Explain the process that causes waves to break
Describe different ocean currents

3. Waves
A wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space.
As a wave passes, only energy moves forward, while the water molecules move around in circles and stay near their original position.
Waves are created by friction from wind.

4. Wave Characteristics

5. Wave Characteristics The crest is the high point of a wave.
The trough is the low point of a wave.
Wavelength is the horizontal distance between the crests or between the troughs of two waves.
Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough.
Half the distance of the wave height is called the amplitude of a wave.

6. Wave Height Depends on three factors: Wind Speed Wind Duration Fetch
Expanse of water wind blows across

7. Breakers
Waves lose energy and slow down as they reach the shore, due to friction with the beach
Incoming crests catch up to slower crests ahead
smaller crest-crest wavelength
Waves become higher, steeper, and unstable
The crests collapse forward

8. Wave Breaking

9. Ocean Currents Density Current Surface Current
Due to difference in temp. and salinity
Move slowly in deep ocean waters
Surface Current
Wind-driven
West to east due to prevailing westerlies

10. Upwelling Upwelling is the upward motion of ocean water
Water is cold because it originates from the bottom