1. Memory Craft 8900QCP Service Manual

3. Top Cover Removal Machine Base Plate & Base Cover Removal Bed Cover Removal Belt Cover Removal Front Panel Removal Parts of the Front Panel Printed Circuit Board ‘A’ Removal Touch Panel Replacement Free Arm Cover Removal Automatic Thread Cutter Removal, Adjustments, and Installation Needle Plate Microswitch Free Arm Cover Installation DC Motor Removal & Installation Switching Power Supply Removal and Installation Tension Unit Adjustments Front Panel Installation Feed Dog Height Presser Bar Height & Angle Needle Bar Position (Front-to-Back) Needle Bar Position (Left-to-Right) Needle-to-Feed Timing Needle Bar Height Needle-to-Hook Timing Needle-to-Hook Clearance Hook Gear Backlash Needle Threader Plate Upper Feed Dog Timing (Part 1) Upper Feed Dog Timing (Part 2) Test & Self-check Modes LCD & LED’s Keys & Buttons Bobbin Winder Foot Lift Assist Lift Remote Cut Needle Plate Buttonhole Lever Feed Dog Drop Speed Control & Foot Controller Tension Unit Solenoid Phase State & Lower Shaft Sensor DC Motor Resetting Machine to Factory Defaults Feed Balance Adjustment Touch Panel Calibration Belt Cover Installation Bed Cover Installation Machine Base Plate & Base Cover Installation Top Cover Installation 1 2 3 4 5-6 7 8 9-10 11-12 13-16 17 18 19 20-21 22 23 24-26 27 28 29 30-31 32-33 34-35 36 37 38 39 40-41 42-61 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57-58 59-61 62 63 64 65 Table of Contents

5. Top Cover Removal 1. Put the handle down and lift up the top cover lid. Locate the large Phillip’s screw directly behind and to the left of the bobbin winder and the screw directly under the horizontal spool pin. Remove the screws completely and lay them inside the cover. 2. Lift up the handle and remove the small Phillip's head screw on the left side of the machine. 3. With the handle up, start to lift up on the left side of the top cover. As you lift up be careful of the clips that hold the top cover firmly to the front panel. Continue to lift up and bring the top cover towards the back, left-hand side of the machine to free it from the handle unit. 1

6. Machine Base Plate & Base Cover Removal 1. Slide the accessory box off of the machine by pulling it to the left. 2. Gently lay the machine on it’s back. Locate the four screws on the base plate. Remove them completely and pull the plate off towards you. 3. Remove the 4 small Phillip’s head screws that hold the machine base plate. In order to remove the plate without scratching it, lift the end of the machine up by grabbing the free arm. 2

7. Bed Cover Removal 1. Locate the two screws that hold the bed cover to the machine. Remove these 2 set screws. 2. Pull down on the end of the cover and very gently start to slide the bed cover to the left. Be careful how you pull it because there are wires underneath and you do not want to scratch or cut them. 3 1 2

8. Belt Cover Removal 1. Unplug the remote cut plug wires then loosen the 2 washer screws that hold the belt cover to the casting. 2. Carefully lift the machine back upright. Lift up on the handle and loosen the small washer screw directly under the handle on the right-hand side. 3. Remove the Phillip’s set screw directly under the hand wheel. 4. Carefully start to pull on the back of the belt cover to release the clips that hold it to the rear cover. As you start to release it from the top, work your way down to release the other 4 clips. 4

9. Front Panel Removal 1. Open the face plate on the left side of the machine and locate the small Phillip's head screw directly above the metal thread guide that is holding the front panel to the casting. Just loosen this screw. 2. At the upper right hand side of the front panel there is a Phillip's head screw that needs to be loosened. 3. Gently lay the machine down and loosen the two Phillip's head screws that hold the bottom of the panel to the casting. 4. Using a blunt-tipped screwdriver, gently push down on one of the open holes of the casting directly behind the upper shaft. This is where the front cover meets the rear cover. As you are pulling out on the right-hand side of the front panel, push down on these two openings. 5

10. Front Panel Removal 6 5. Unplug the 15 wires that plug into the ‘A’ board that holds the front panel to the machine. Always grab the wires as a group and pull straight outward. Never grab a single wire.

11. Parts of the Front Panel 1. Circuit Board ‘L2’ (Horizontal LED Light) 2. Slide Volume (Speed Control) 3. Circuit Board ‘L1’ (Horizontal LED Light) 4. Circuit Board ‘A’ 5. Circuit Board ‘F’: Thread Cutter Needle Up/Down Lockstitch Reverse Star/Stop 5 1 2 34 7

12. 1. Carefully hook your finger under the loop of the brown flexible cable and pull upwards. Do not grab the cream- colored connector, as this is soldered to the board. 2. Unplug the 4 sets of wires on the upper-right side of the board. 8 Printed Circuit Board ‘A’ Removal 3. Locate and remove the 4 set screws that hold the ‘A’ board to the front panel then remove the board.

13. 1. If the touch panel does not respond to touch, screen calibration does not hold, or the screen is scratched, remove the 6 set screws that hold the touch panel cover to the front panel. 2. Very carefully work your way around the edges of the touch panel sheet with your hand to release it from the panel. 9 Touch Panel Replacement 3. Attach 1/8” double-stick tape on the sides and top of the new touch panel sheet. 4. Carefully guide the new touch panel into position and lay it down into the cutouts. Firmly push on 3 sides to secure it in place.

14. 5. Place the touch panel cover into position and replace the 6 set screws. 6. Lay the ‘A’ board back into position and replace the 4 Phillip's head screws. Next, plug the 5 wires back into their connectors. 10 Touch Panel Replacement 7. Check to make sure the jog dial spins freely without any binds. If it doesn’t, loosen the screws that hold the ‘A’ board in place and adjust the position of the board, retighten the screws, and check the jog dial again.

15. Free Arm Cover Removal 1. Remove the presser foot, shank, and needle. Then, raise the presser bar to it’s highest position. 2. Since the needle plate is normally released by the bed cover, we need another way to remove it. Locate the pin with a spring & c-clip just to the left of the silver, feed cam fork on the bottom of the machine. 3. Using the butt-end of your screwdriver, firmly push the pin towards the top of the machine. This will release the needle plate from the machine. 11 4. Carefully remove the needle plate.

16. Free Arm Cover Removal 1. Remove both the silver, flat-head post on the inside of the free arm and the Phillip’s head washer screw on the end of the free arm. 2. Carefully pull the cover towards the end of the machine and then lift up. 3. If the cover does not want to release, lift up on the inside of the cover as you are pulling the cover towards the end of the machine. 12

17. Automatic Thread Cutter Removal, Adjustments, and Installation 13 1. In order to remove the thread cutter unit from the machine, remove the two large Phillip’s set screws on the end of the cutter. As you remove the screws, the thread cutter will want to fall, so make sure you hold it in your hand. The thread cutter will still be held to the machine by wires, so be careful not to pull it away. 2. To separate the thread cutter unit from the step motor, remove the 2 remaining, large Phillip’s set screws. As you remove the screws, silver supporting posts will fall from the unit. 3. Notice the step motor is still attached to the machine.

18. Automatic Thread Cutter Removal, Adjustments, and Installation 14 Screw for adjusting the plate 4. Pull the long extending blade all the way out and back in again ensuring it slides smoothly. Clean the thread cutter from lint and debris from both the top and underside of the cutter. Put one small drop of oil on the underside of the long extending blade. If the long extending blade continues to jam or not slide smoothly, loosen the small Phillip’s screw that holds the setting plate in place and move the plate so it is as close to the long blade as possible without it touching. 5. If the thread cutter has trouble cutting such as not cutting the top or bobbin thread or the thread is cutting too short or too long, loosen the small Phillip’s set screw that holds the small cutting blades in place. If you pivot the blades towards the back of the machine, it will cut the thread longer. If you pivot the blades towards the front of the machine, it will cut the thread shorter. These are very fine adjustments. 6. Be sure to clean the step motor gears thoroughly from thread & lint. Putting a small amount of lithium grease on the gears will help the cutter run smoother and quieter. Setting plate

19. Automatic Thread Cutter Removal, Adjustments, and Installation 15 7. If you continue to have issues with the thread cutter such as cutter errors, the thread cutter unit will need to be replaced. Remove the Phillip’s set screw and wire clip. 8. Follow the wires along the bottom of the machine and cut all of the zip ties that hold the wires to the machine then unplug the connector from the ‘A’ board. When reinstalling, carefully route the wires properly and tie them down in the correct spots with zip ties. 9. When reinstalling the thread cutter unit to the step motor, insert the screws into the holes of the cutter then insert the silver supporting posts onto the screws.

20. Automatic Thread Cutter Removal, Adjustments, and Installation 16 The black post must fit into the hole of the thread cutter 10. Align the thread cutter with the step motor. 11. When reattaching, the black post of the step motor must fit into the access hole of the thread cutter. Tighten the 2 screws. To ensure the thread cutter is properly together, push the long extending blade all of the way out then back in again. It should move smoothly and you should only feel the tension of the step motor. 12. Place the entire unit onto the machine and replace the two large Phillip’s set screws.

21. Needle Plate Microswitch 1. Reattach the needle plate by hooking the metal tabs under the springs that are attached to the thread cutter. 2. The top of the surface of the silver, microswitch bracket and bottom surface of the needle plate should be 11.5mm. If an adjustment needs to be made, loosen the two 2mm hex screws and move the bracket up or down accordingly. 3. Notice on both the zigzag and straight stitch needle plates are small, white tabs. The posts on these tabs are in different spots so it lets the machine know which needle plate is set on the machine. If the microswitch is not positioned properly, the machine will get a false reading and prompt you with an “attach needle plate” error, usually when it is sewing at its fastest speed. 11.5mm 17

22. Free Arm Cover Installation 1. Remove the needle plate. Reattach the free arm cover by setting it into position but 1/4” from the inside of the free arm. 2. Be sure to push down on the end of the cover. This will hook the clip to the underside of the thread cutter securing it in place. 3. While pushing down on the free arm cover, replace the large, silver, flat-head post and Phillip’s washer screw. 18 1/4“ gap

23. DC Motor Removal & Installation 1. Slide the motor belt off of the hand wheel. 2. Unplug the DC motor wire from the back of the ‘A’ board. It’s the plug with the wires wrapped in clear tubing. 3. Locate and remove the 2 Phillip's screws that hold the motor to the machine. Carefully remove the motor. 4. Replace the motor and motor belt. The motor belt should have 5mm deflection with about 200 grams of pressure while pushing in the middle of the belt. 5mm deflection 19

24. Switching Power Supply Removal and Installation 2. Loosen the Phillip's set screw that holds the plastic wire guide in place and remove the guide. 3. Unplug the wire towards the top of the power supply. 1. Remove the 3 Phillip's set screws that hold this unit to the machine. Once removed, the unit will slide outwards. You do not need to remove the rear cover to remove the power supply. 20

25. 4. After installing the new power supply, guide the wires behind the plastic wire guide. Be careful not to pinch the wires. 5. Set the guide into place. Before tightening the washer screw, lightly pull on the wires verifying they are not pinched. 6. Plug the wire back into the power supply and replace the 3 Phillip's set screws. 21 Switching Power Supply Removal and Installation

26. Tension Unit Adjustments 1. If there is no tension, check the thread tension release bracket. When the presser foot is down, the distance between the silver post and the black bracket that forces the discs open should be.80-1.0 mm. To make the adjustment, loosen the small Phillip’s set screw directly behind the c-clip and pivot the silver post left or right accordingly. 2. Reset the tension by turning the small, silver, flat-head screw on the side of the unit all of the way towards the plus (or counter-clockwise). Now set it by turning it clockwise 1 1/2 full rotations (or 16 ‘clicks’). You should see about 2 vertical lines on the small white gear. A new tension unit will already be set to factory specs. 22

27. Front Panel Installation 23 1. Align the front panel with the machine. Plug the 15 wires into the ‘A’ board. It’s best to start from the bottom and work your way up. Then, attach the front panel ensuring there are no gaps between the covers. 2. Tighten the Phillip’s set screw by the metal thread guide below the tension unit. 3. While lightly pushing in on the front panel, tighten the set screw directly in front of the handle on the right-hand side. 4. Gently lay the machine down and tighten the two Phillip's head screws that hold the bottom of the panel to the casting.

28. .8 -.9mm above the surface and level with the needle plate. Feed Dog Height 1. When the feed dogs are in their highest position, they should be parallel with the needle plate and.8 -.9mm above the surface of the plate. They should not be pointing upwards or downwards. 2. Using the feed dog height gauge, set the gauge with ‘A’ facing up. Rotate the hand wheel towards you. If the feed dogs are too low, they will not grab and move the gauge. 3. Now flip the gauge so side ‘B’ is facing up and rotate the hand wheel towards you. If the feed dogs are too high, they will grab and move the gauge. 4. If an adjustment needs to be made, locate the set screw towards the rear of the machine on the end of the free arm, directly above the thread cutter step motor. Loosen this washer screw. This step adjusts the rear section of the feed dogs. 24

29. Feed Dog Height 5. Turn this small adjusting screw clockwise to raise and counter- clockwise to lower the rear section of the feed dogs. Do not loosen the hexagon nut. Once the adjustment is made, tighten the locking set screw. 6. To adjust the front section of the feed dogs, locate and loosen the set screw set deep within the access hole. * This is a counter-threaded screw * 7. To make an adjustment, locate the small, empty-threaded access hole on the feed dog height plate. 8. Temporarily borrow a 2mm hex screw from the lower shaft bushing. This is a counter-threaded set screw. Turn it clockwise to loosen. Counter- threaded set screw Empty- threaded, 2mm hole 25

30. Feed Dog Height 9. Now, insert it into the empty-threaded hole. Turn it clockwise to raise and counter-clockwise to lower the front- section of the feed dogs. 10. Tighten the counter-threaded screw then replace the 2mm set screw back into the black bushing. 11. Recheck the height using the feed dog height gauge. Set the gauge with ‘A’ facing up. Rotate the hand wheel towards you. If the feed dogs are too low, they will not grab and move the gauge. 12. Now flip the gauge so side ‘B’ is facing up and rotate the hand wheel towards you. If the feed dogs are too high, they will grab and move the gauge. This is a counter-threaded set screw. Turn it counter-clockwise to tighten. 26

31. 6mm Gauge #860G001 1. Lower the feed dogs. Now, using the MC11000 step gauge, slide the gauge under the foot. The gauge should slide snuggly under the foot and not have any up or down ‘play’. 2. If an adjustment needs to be made, locate and loosen the 2mm set screw on the presser bar block. Grab the presser bar and move it up or down accordingly then lightly tighten the screw. Recheck using the gauge. 3. Before tightening the screw completely, check the angle of the presser foot. The foot should be aligned with the feed dogs. Presser Bar Height & Angle (6mm when the presser bar is in it’s normal, up position with the standard zigzag foot attached) 27

32. Needle Bar Position (Front-to-Back) 1. Remove the presser foot. Turn the hand wheel towards you to bring the needle within the needle plate hole. The needle should be directly in the middle of the hole. 2. If the needle is not centered, remove the presser foot pressure dial. 3. Locate and loosen the 2mm set screw that is holding the needle bar supporter in place. Now pivot the needle bar supporter towards the front or back to center it with the needle plate hole then tighten the screw. 28

33. Needle Bar Position (Left-to-Right) 1. Turn the machine on and select straight- stitch, center needle position. 2. Loosen the 1.5mm hex screw between the needle threader lever and the black, needle threader guide plate. Now turn the large, flat- head eccentric screw to align the needle within the center of the needle plate hole. Tighten the screw. 3. Turn the machine off then back on again. Select straight-stitch, center needle position and recheck the alignment. 29

34. Needle-to-Feed Timing 1. Loosen the Phillip's screw that holds the idler which provides tension on the timing belt. Push the idler out of the way. 2. Slide the timing belt off of the lower shaft gear. 3. Turn the hand wheel towards you so the tip of the needle is touching the surface of the needle plate. Never turn the hand wheel backwards. The needle should be going down in it’s sewing motion. 4. Turn the lower shaft towards you so the feed dogs are level with the top of the needle plate when going in their downward rotation. Never turn the gear backwards. The feed dogs should be going down in their sewing motion. 30

35. Needle-to-Feed Timing 7mm deflection 5. This picture shows the tip of the needle flush with the top of the needle plate and the feed dogs flush with the top of the needle plate when going in their downward (sewing motion) rotation. 6. While firmly holding the hand wheel in place with one hand, slide the timing belt onto the lower shaft with the other hand. 7. Place the idler back into position and tighten the screw. 8. While pushing on the middle of the belt, there should be about 7mm deflection. 31

36. Needle Bar Height 1. Turn the machine on and select straight-stitch, center needle position. Now remove the needle plate. 2. Attach the needle bar height gauge with the black post sticking out towards you. Be sure the gauge is all of the way up into the needle bar. 3. Insert the 9mm radial timing gauge. Make sure the tip of the hook is touching the flat spot of the gauge at all times. This is necessary for both proper timing checks and adjustments. 4. Turn the hand wheel towards you to bring the needle bar down. 32

37. Needle Bar Height 5. As you continue to turn the hand wheel towards you, the needle bar height gauge should lightly skim the top of the gauge. There should not be a gap between the gauges and the needle bar height gauge should not hit the radial gauge enough to shift the needle bar sideways. 6. If an adjustment needs to be made, locate and loosen the 2mm hex screw on the block that holds the needle bar in place. This is the larger of the two blocks on the needle bar. Raise or lower the needle bar accordingly. Do not turn the needle bar left or right. Recheck the adjustment. 33

38. Needle-to-Hook Timing 1. Remove the needle bar height gauge and install the needle-to-hook timing gauge. Make sure this timing needle gauge is fully inserted. 2. Make sure the tip of the hook touches the flat end of the gauge. This is necessary for both proper timing checks and adjustments. 3. Turn the hand wheel towards you to bring the needle bar down. 34

39. Needle-to-Hook Timing 4. When the needle is in its lowest position, it should touch the middle of the red line of the gauge. If the needle hits before or after the line on the gauge, an adjustment must be made. 5. Locate the two 2.5mm hexagon screws holding the timing gear to the lower shaft. 6. Using a 2.5mm hex screwdriver, loosen both screws. While holding the hand wheel, use your screwdriver as leverage to adjust hook timing and tighten the 1 screw. 7. Make sure the tip of the shuttle hook is touching the flat spot of the radial gauge and recheck timing. If the adjustment is correct, tighten the second hex screw on the timing gear. 35

40. Needle-to-Hook Clearance 1. With the machine off, push the needle bar to the left. Turn the hand wheel to bring the tip of the hook directly behind the needle. The distance between the back of the needle & the tip of the hook should be 0 - 0.05mm. 2. If an adjustment is needed, locate and loosen the 3 large Phillip's head screws on the hook base plate. 3. Push the plate closer or away from the needle to make the necessary adjustment. Tighten the 3 screws. 4. Recheck the distance after adjusting the plate in left, center, and right needle positions. You can use a flathead screwdriver push the needle and see if there is any deflection. 36

41. Hook Gear Backlash 1. Hold the hook race with your hand and wiggle it left & right. The hook race should have about.8mm of backlash, or ‘play’. Check it in 3 different spots by turning the hand wheel so the hook race turns 1/3 each time. 2. If an adjustment is needed, locate and loosen the 2mm hexagon set screw that holds the lower shaft eccentric bushing in place. 3. Using a small flathead screwdriver, move the bushing either upwards or downwards. Moving the bushing upwards will give the hook more backlash, or ‘play’, and downwards will give it less backlash. Lightly tighten the hex screw and recheck hook backlash. If the proper adjustment is made, tighten the screw. * Do not move the bushing or shaft left or right. 37

42. Needle Threader Plate 1. To remove the needle threader plate, first remove the needle and then pull down the threader. Push down on the threader plate to remove it. 2. To replace it, place the new threader plate under the threader shaft. Push up on the threader plate until it snaps into position. Now, insert a size 12 or 14 needle. 3. If the pin does not line up with the needle eye left-to-right, loosen the screw on the front of the threader plate. Move the threader plate to the left or right until the pin fits into the eye. Then tighten the screw. 4. To adjust the height of the threader pin, loosen the 1.5mm hexagon screw in the threader setting block. Raise or lower the block accordingly. Do not rotate the this block left or right when you make this adjustment. Tighten the screw. This is the smaller of the two blocks. 38

43. Upper Feed Dog Timing (Part 1) 1. Remove the needle and attach the standard dual feed foot. 2. Set the upper feed adjusting dial to 0. If you have the belt cover removed, turn the dial all way counter clockwise and then three ‘clicks’ clockwise. 3. Turn the machine on and select straight-stitch, center needle position. Lower the feed length to ‘0’ and hit the needle up/down button twice. Now, lower the feed dogs. 4. To make an adjustment, locate and loosen the two 2mm hexagon screws located near the hand wheel that holds the upper feed upper shaft unit in place. 39

44. Upper Feed Dog Timing (Part 1) 5. With the two hex screws loosened, you can now move the dual feed foot front-to-back freely. 6. Using step gauge #846-G01, check the clearance between the dual feed foot and the upper feed dog. The clearance should be 4mm. 7. With the gauge in place, tighten the two 2mm hex screws. * Do not over tighten the screws * 4mm Gauge #846-G01 40

45. Upper Feed Dog Timing (Part 2) 1. Insert the step gauge between dual feed linkage on the bottom, right-hand side of the machine. The gap between the two linkages should be 2.5mm. 2. If an adjustment needs to be made, locate and loosen the 2.5mm hex screw that holds the linkage in place. 3. Rotate your screwdriver up and down to provide more or less gap between the linkages. Insert the 2.5mm section of the step gauge. Now, rotate your screwdriver down so it is lightly snug against the gauge and tighten the screw. Gauge #846-G01 2.5mm 41

46. Test & Self-check Modes 1. While holding down the needle up/down and lockstitch buttons, turn the machine on. 2. Once you see “Factory Adjust” display on the screen, release the buttons. 3. Rotate the jog dial to scroll along the options and press the jog dial button to select it. 4. Select step #3 “Self-Check”. 42

47. Test & Self-check Modes (LCD & LED’s) 1. The first step in the self-check mode is the LCD & LED checks. The LCD display will flash from light to dark. The LCD display is built into the ‘A’ board. If there are black lines across the screen or if the screen does not flash replace the board. 2. The thread cutter, needle up/down, and start/stop buttons will also flash. The ‘F’ board directly behind these buttons has built-in LED’s. If one or more of these are not flashing, check the connections or replace the ‘F’ board. 3. Press the reverse button to proceed to the next step. 43

48. Test & Self-check Modes (Key & Buttons) 1. “Check keys” will now display on the screen. Press and hold any button and key excluding the reverse button to check if they are working correctly. 3. Press the reverse button to proceed to the next step. 44 2. For example, if you press and hold the elongate button, the screen will display “Elongate Key”. If any of the keys do not respond on the touch panel, check the connections or replace the touch panel unit. If any of the other buttons do not work, check the connections or replace the ‘F’ board.

49. Test & Self-check Modes (Bobbin Winder) 1. Next is the bobbin winder microswitch check. When the bobbin winder is pushed to the left, the screen will display “OFF”. 2. Push the bobbin winder to the right and you will see the white tab of the microswitch. When the bobbin winder is pushed to the left, the microswitch should be closed. If the display does not change from “OFF” to “ON”, locate and loosen the large Phillip’s set screw that holds the microswitch in place. Move the unit to the right accordingly then tighten the screw. 3. If an adjustment is made, push the bobbin winder to the left and to the right making sure the display changes from “ON” to “OFF”. 45

50. Test & Self-check Modes (Foot Lift) 1. When the presser bar is lowered all of the way, “Foot Lift” will display “DOWN”. 2. Lift the presser foot to it’s normal, up position. 3. The screen will change to “UP”. If it does not, an adjustment needs to be made. 4. Open the face plate and locate the microswitch unit with the 2 silver tabs. Make sure the silver tabs are attached to the switch. If they are, loosen the large Phillip’s screw and move the microswitch unit down accordingly then tighten the screw. 46 2 Silver tabsPhillip’s screw

51. Test & Self-check Modes (Assist Lift) 1. Lift the presser foot to it’s highest position. 2. “Assist Lift” will now change from “DOWN” to “UP”. “Foot Lift” will continue to say “UP”. 3. Open the face plate and locate the microswitch unit with the 2 silver tabs. Make sure the silver tabs are attached to the switch. If they are, loosen the large Phillip’s screw and move the microswitch unit down accordingly then tighten the screw. 47 2 Silver tabsPhillip’s screw

52. Test & Self-check Modes (Remote Cut) 1. If you have purchased the Remote Thread Cutting Switch Unit #858418008, connect it to the machine. 2. When the controller is pressed, the display will change from “OFF” to “ON” verifying the plug, connector, and controller are working properly. 3. If the screen does not change, locate the plug on the bottom, right-hand side of the machine. Verify the plug is correctly connected and plugged into the ‘A’ board. If it still does not work, the problem could either be the Remove Thread Cutting Switch or the ‘A’ board. 48

53. Test & Self-check Modes (Needle Plate) 1. Step #6 checks the needle plate micro switch. With the needle plate removed, the display will read “No Plate”. Attach the zigzag needle plate. The display will read “ZZ Plate”. 2. Now attach the straight stitch needle plate. The display will change to “Straight Plate”. 3. The top of the surface of the silver, microswitch bracket and bottom surface of the needle plate should be 11.5mm. If an adjustment needs to be made, loosen the two 2mm hex screws and move the bracket up or down accordingly. 49

54. Test & Self-check Modes (Buttonhole Lever) 1. When the buttonhole lever is all of the way up, the display should read “H”. 2. When the buttonhole lever is pulled all of the way down and not touched, it will highlight “L”. 3. When the lever is all of the way down and not touched, the slit in the shield plate should be as close to the middle of the sensor as possible. 4. If you need to make an adjustment, locate the 1.5mm hex screw sticking out of the lock washer. Turn the hex screw to align the slit of the black shield plate within the middle of the sensor. Do not loosen the lock washer. 50

55. Test & Self-check Modes (Feed Dog Drop) 1. When the feed dogs are up, the display will read “UP”. 2. When the feed dogs are down, the display will read “DOWN”. 3. On the bottom, lower-right corner of the machine is the feed dog drop lever and microswitch. As you lower the feed dogs, the lever should activate the switch. If the display does not change, loosen the Phillip’s screw and move the lever accordingly so it closes the switch. 4. Press the reverse button to proceed to the next step. 51

56. Test & Self-check Modes (Speed Control & Foot Controller) 1. This step checks the volume of the speed control and the foot controller. When the speed control is pushed all of the way to the left, “SpeedControl” will read around 5 and around 1023 when pushed to the right. 2. When the foot control is plugged in and not pressed, “FootControl” will read around 15 and around 835 when fully pressed. 3. Press the reverse button to proceed to the next step. 52

57. Test & Self-check Modes (Tension Unit Solenoid) 1. This step checks the tension unit solenoid. If you press the jog dial button, the screen will change from “OFF” to “ON” and the solenoid will activate. After 5 seconds, the solenoid will release. 2. Press the jog dial button to activate the tension unit solenoid. 3. Take a look at the solenoid. When activated, the solenoid will retract the plunger. If this does not work properly, when you cut the thread, the thread will abruptly pop out of the needle. If it does not work, check the connections or replace the tension unit. 53 4. Press the reverse button to proceed to the next step.

58. Test & Self-check Modes (Phase State & Lower Shaft Sensor) 54 4. Press the reverse button to proceed to the next step. 1. This checks both the zigzag & feed step motors as well as the lower shaft sensor. When the needle is in the up position, the screen will display “BM” for “Bight Motor” (zigzag). Press the jog dial button to calibrate the motor. 2. When the needle is in the down position, the screen will display “FM” for feed motor. Press the jog dial button to calibrate the feed step motor. 3. If the screen doesn’t change from “BM” to “FM” or “Angle” doesn’t change as you turn the hand wheel, locate the lower shaft sensor. Clean the sensor & shield plate as best as possible and make sure the shield plates aren’t hitting the sides of the sensors. Replace the sensor if necessary.

59. Test & Self-check Modes (DC Motor) 55 4. Press the reverse button to start over to step #1 (LCD & LED’s check) or turn the machine off. 1. DCM stands for DC Motor. This is a good test to make sure the motor is working properly. 2. Press the start/stop button. The machine will now run. 3. Slide the speed control to the left or right to make the motor run slower or faster. Listen for any possible noises such as grinding or vibration sounds coming from the motor itself.

60. Test & Self-check Modes (Resetting Machine to Factory Defaults) 56 1. While holding down the needle up/down and lockstitch buttons, turn the machine on. 2. Once you are in the test mode, scroll down to step #5 “Initialize EEPROM”. Press the jog dial button to select it. 3. Pressing the Enter key will reset the machine to factory defaults. The customer will lose all saved custom stitches and settings. 4. Press the jog dial button to reset the machine to factory-defaults.

61. Test & Self-check Modes (Feed Balance Adjustment) 57 1. While holding down the needle up/down and lockstitch buttons, turn the machine on. 2. Once you see “Factory Adjust” display on the screen, release the buttons. 3. Once you are in the test mode, scroll down to step #8 “88888888”. Press the jog dial button to select it. 4. With the machine threaded and ready to sew, press the start/stop button and let the machine sew out eight 8’s.

62. Test & Self-check Modes (Feed Balance Adjustment) 58 5. The correct distance between six of the 8’s should be 33 - 39mm. 6. Locate the 2mm hex screw on the feed adjusting bracket. Turn the screw clockwise to make the stitch longer or counter-clockwise to make the stitch shorter. Do not loosen the lock washer. 7. After each mechanical adjustment, press the right arrow “EDIT” key to recalibrate the feed step motor. Press the start/stop button to sew out the 8’s and verify the distance. 33-39mm 33mm 39mm

63. Test & Self-check Modes (Touch Screen Calibration) 59 1. While holding down the needle up/down and lockstitch buttons, turn the machine on. 2. Once you are in the test mode, scroll down to step #2 “TTP Coordinate”. 3. Press the jog dial button to select it. 4. Using the stylus, touch the center of the stitch width key.

64. Test & Self-check Modes (Touch Screen Calibration) 60 5. Press the center of the stitch length key. 6. Touch the center of the edit key. 7. Press the center of the crosshair. 8. Touch the center of the ‘D4’ key.

65. Test & Self-check Modes (Touch Screen Calibration) 61 9. Press the center of the 4th crosshair. 10. Once finished, the LCD will display “Push the Enter key to memorize it.” 11. Press the jog dial button to save the calibration. If you have issues with the screen not holding calibration, you may have to calibrate it up to 3 times in a row. If the screen continues to not work correctly, replace the touch panel sheet.

66. Belt Cover Installation 62 1. Align the belt cover with the machine and fit it into position. 2. Replace the long Phillip's head screw directly under the hand wheel. 3. Lift the handle up and tighten the small Phillip's head screw on the right hand side at the top of the belt cover. 4. Gently lay the machine down on it’s back. Reconnect the remote thread cutter plugs. Now, tighten the two Phillip's head screws that hold the bottom part of the belt cover to the casting.

67. Bed Cover Installation 63 2 1 1. Guide the bed cover into position. Be careful how you pull it because there are wires underneath and you do not want to scratch or cut them. 2. Replace the 2 set screws that hold the cover to the machine.

68. Machine Base Plate & Base Cover Installation 64 1. In order to replace the machine base plate without scratching it, lift the end of the machine up slightly by grabbing the free arm and fit it into position. Replace the 4 self-tapping set screws. 2. Reinstall the base cover and replace the 4 set screws. 3. Replace the accessory box.

69. Top Cover Installation 65 1. Lift the handle up and insert the top cover unit starting from the right-hand side and fit it into position. Lower the handle, lift up on the top cover lid, and push down on the front of the top cover to lock the tabs into the front cover. 2. Replace the 2 set screws that hold the front cover to the machine. The smaller of the 2 screws goes directly under the horizontal spool pin. 3. Lift up the handle and replace the small Phillip's head screw on the left side of the machine.