1. 2.01
Fabric Construction

2. Turning Yarn into Fabric
Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.
Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric.
Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric.
Show example of selvage edge in relation to ward and weft

3. Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)
Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns or threads in a woven fabric.
Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest “give” or stretch in the fabric.
Use example to show grain and bias.

4. Weaving
Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn.
Examples: Chiffon, seersucker, taffeta
A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass.
Example: oxford cloth
Plain weave
Use magnifying glass to examine examples of weaves.

5. Weaving
Twill weave: A weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns beginning one warp yarn back on each new row.
Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface.
Examples: denim, gabardine
Twill weave

6. Weaving
Satin weave: A weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats.
Examples: sateen, satin
Satin weave

7. Weaving Other weaves Pile weave—corduroy, velvet
Dobby—dotted swiss, pique
Jacquard—brocade, damask
Leno—fabrics with an open, lacy appearance

8. Weaving Assignment
Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate:
plain weave
twill weave
satin weave
On the back of each weave:
list the advantages
list disadvantages
3 examples of weave
Describe weaving assignment.

9. Knit Fabrics Stretchy Don’t really ravel, but can “run”
Flat Knitting – lies flat on the table
Circular knitting – t-shirts with no seams, socks

10. Weft Knit Hand knitting is “weft knit” Stretches in both directions
Rib knit (for cuffs and collars)
Jersey knit
Interlock (t-shirt)
Double knit

11. Warp Knit Made with several yarns Usually run-resistant
Tricot (lingerie)
Raschel for lacey look
Milanese (obsolete)

12. Non Wovens Often disposable Felt - crafts Lace Leather – Interfacing
pig and cow
Interfacing

13. Fabric Finishes

14. Fiber dyeing
natural fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns. Allows for colorful yarns; (solution dyeing for manufactured)

15. Yarn Dyeing yarns are dyed before weaving
(used for plaids, checks, stripes)

16. Piece Dyeing
fabric is woven or knitted and then dyed

17. Garment Dyeing
fabric is cut and sewn in to the finished product, then dyed

18. Printing designs onto fabric
Roller printing: one plate for each color of the design (raised and low areas for color or no color)

19. Screen printing
mesh fabric is stretched over a frame, design is “burned” onto the fabric, colors are pressed through the mesh onto the fabric (large designs are best)

20. Rotary Screen Printing
combines screen and roller;
faster than screen
cheaper than rollers

21. Heat Transfer Printing
printed onto paper first, then heat set onto the fabric
(think t-shirts on the spot)

22. Digital Printing: computer designed; ink jet printer traces back and forth like a paper printer;
good for custom designing;
expensive