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Rice: Cooking Steaming method Absorption method Boiling method
The correct ratio of rice to water is critical, so always measure carefully according to recipe or package instructions. But if you are using an extra wide pot or are doubling a recipe, the amount of water you need may vary. Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford’s truly outstanding book, “Seductions of Rice,” outlines three basic methods, which are described here. ABSORPTION METHOD This is probably familiar to most people. You measure rice. You measure water and put it in a pot. Bring water to boil, add rice, cover, simmer until cooked. How it works is that you are at first cooking the rice IN the water, but as it is absorbed, the rice is steamed by the water that is still there. Most rice does well with this method. BOILING METHOD You bring a large pot of water to a boil. You add rice and cook like pasta. You drain the rice in a sieve, rinse with water to stop cooking and serve. This method works well with high to medium-level amylose rice like basmati and Arborio, but it does not do well with low amylose rice, such as Japanese rice. STEAMING We may think of the absorption method as steaming, but true steamed rice never comes in contact with the water. It is cooked by the steam generated by water boiling below it. In Asian cooking, sticky or glutinous rice ia always steamed, either in a special cone-shaped steaming basket over a pot of water or in a bamboo steamer that is lined with cloth. This method is designed for sticky rice, which must first be soaked. Boiling method
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Rice: Cooking Variations
Baked Brown Rice Stirring risotto while it cooks There are other ways to cook rice that use one of these three methods to one extent or another. Some variations of the absorption method: --You can actually bake rice in the oven. Bring water to boil, place rice and hot water in baking dish, cover tightly and bake until water is absorbed. --Pilafs and risottos are also variations of absorption. With a pilaf, you toast dry rice in some fat in a pan, then add your liquid, cover and cook. With risotto, you toast dry rice in a pan with fat, then slowly add warm liquid (usually broth), all the while stirring so as the rice absorbs liquid and releases starch, it thickens the mixture. You keep adding liquid and stirring until the rice is cooked. Both pilafs and risottos have other aromatics and ingredients to flavor and add texture. Rice Pilaf
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Rice: Rice cooker 1955 Toshiba rice cooker debut in Japan
1960 Rice cooker now can keep rice warm 1988 Induction heat (IH) rice cooker goes on market 1979 Computer-controlled cooker > fuzzy logic According to a 2008 New York Times articles, millions of Asians have never really cooked a pot of rice in their life. No wonder they have never burned one. Yet they eat 200 pounds of rice a year, compared to 25 paltry pounds we Americans put away. The reason? Rice cookers. There is an electric rice cooker in just about every Asian household, assuming there is electricity. The first commercial rice cooker went on the market in the 1950s in Japan, a time when Japanese housewives were working more outside the home. By 1960, a rice cooker was on the market that would keep rice warm for hours. Restaurants really benefitted, being able to keep rice on hand for customers. Rice cookers use the absorption method we talked about earlier. Here is how a rice cooker works, and I’m reading from the “How Stuff Works” web site; “Water and rice sit inside the cooking pan while it's inserted into the rice cooker's shell. The pan's weight depresses the thermal-sensing device, and the heating plate quickly brings the water to a boil. The sensing device is a small, spring-loaded thermometer that gauges the temperature of the pan's contents. It's set into the bottom of the rice cooker's main body. Simple rice cookers usually warm their contents by transferring heat from the heating plate to the cooking pan, and the type of metal used can improve that transfer. Some metals -- copper and aluminum for example -- are highly conductive. In other words, they transfer their heat easily. A wide range of materials can be used for the cooking pan, and each type may affect the overall time it takes to cook the food. The process for cooking the rice is simple. Water boils at 212 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius), and once it reaches a steady boil, it won't get hotter. As long as there is water in the pan, the temperature should be stable. Once the rice absorbs all the water in the pan, the temperature will start to rise. The rice cooker senses this change and will either switch off or switch to a warming cycle. At this point, the rice has finished cooking and entered the resting stage.” By the late 1980s, induction heat rice cookers using a magnetic field made rice cooking more precise and dependable. Around the same time, computer technology was developing that allowed machines to be more human, gauging what to do based on what is going on in the environment. A fuzzy logic rice cooker has a microchip that will adjust heat and warming based on temperature and moisture content of the rice. The latest models have all sorts of settings that will either make you happy or crazy, depending on your comfort level with technology. Both the IH and fuzzy logic models are expensive. A basic rice cooker can be had for less than $50. A fuzzy logic rice cooker can go for up to $200. Rice cookers don’t cook rice faster, they simply cook them more consistently and reliably, without burning. You can also use them for other grains: oats, couscous, barley, millet, quinoa.
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Rice: Washing/Soaking
Washing gets rid of excess starch Rinsing relaxes rice, and is required for some varieties Enriched rice often tells consumers not to rinse—your choice Most Asians will rinse or wash their rice in several changes of water before cooking. Before modern milling techniques, this was a good idea to get rid of any dirt or dust that remained after threshing. Rinsing these days is done mostly to get rid of excess starch on the rice so it’s not so sticky. By law, white rices are enriched with powdered vitamins and will carry a warning against rinsing on the package, since this washes away those added nutrients. Many rice afficionados feel that since The Amerincan diet is varied and healthy enough, we won’t suffer by losing those nutrients. But if you feel strongly about it, don’t rinse. Cooked properly, your rice will still be delicious. Soaking rice for 30 minutes or up to 8 hours allows the grains to absorb water, which will shorten the cooking time, but more importantly, it relaxes the grains to insure they don’t break during cooking and makes them more tender. Soaking is especially important for brown rice, basmati and sticky or glutinous rices, which actually require soaking before cooking so they will cook completely. Whether you wash or rinse, it’s always a good idea to strain the water completely in fine sieve so you can measure the proper amount of water to rice. It is less important for arborio rice used for risotto, where you want that extra starch for thickening. Parboiled or precooked rice do not require rinsing or soaking. Many recipes will tell you to wash rice in several changes of water until the water runs clear.
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Rice: Gelatinization Temperature
Starch > Absorbs liquid GT varies among types of rice Rices with high GT benefit from soaking Rice benefits from minutes of rest When is rice done cooking? If you want to get scientific about it, it’s when most of the starches have gelatinized, or when the starches absorb water, start to swell and give up their crystalline structure. And there Is not turning back. The temperature of the water at this point in the process is called the gelatinization temperature (GT), and it varies among different rice types, with a range of 130 degrees Fahrenheit to 175 degrees F. The higher the GT, the longer it takes the rice to cook. High amylose/long grain rices such as basmati have a fairly high GT, so the water has to be hotter before the starches start to swell. After cooking, all rices will have a better texture if you let them rest, covered, for about minutes so that the gelatinzed starches can firm up a little.
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Rice: Chinese Chinese Black Rice Juk or congee: Rice porridge
Basic rice in eaten among Chinese living in North America is a long or medium grain rice that is neither dry and separate like basmati nor sticky like Japanese. Some Chinese like a jasmine style rice. Sometimes, as you see in this picutre, there is not a lot of information about rice sold in Chinese markets. It’s just basic long grain rice. Plain cooked rice in Mandarin is called fan. A common way to eat rice is making a rice porridge called juk or congee. Chinese Black RICE is grown in Northern China. IT is an unmilled medium-grain rice. The color is from the black-purple bran – the kernels underneath are white. For an unmilled rice, it cooks fairly quickly. It is marketed here as Chinese Forbidden Black Rice. Use it for desserts, savory dishes. The Chinese sometimes use this rice for congee, or rice porridge. It has an assertive flavor and is very soft when cooked. Juk or congee: Rice porridge Fan: Plain rice rice
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Rice: Japanese Gohan: plain white rice Genmai: brown rice Gohan Omochi
Japanese rice is medium to short grain japonica rice. Before cooking, the grains are glassy, with some patches of white. When cooked, it is firm. Japanese rice does not need a lot of water. Plain cooked polished rice is called gohan, which means “honorable food.” Brown rice is called genmai. There is also a short-grain Japanese sticky or sweet rice called mochi gome. It is used mostly for making desserts. Japan does not export its rice, so all Japanese-style sold here is domestically grown. Brands include Nishiki, CalRose, Matsu and Kohuho Rose. Sushi rice is made with Japanese rice, then flavored with rice vinegar and sugar. Traditionally, the Japanese cooked their gohan in an okama, a large metal pot with round, curvy bottom, placed on an open fire. Now just about everyone uses a rice cooker. Rice has lots of other culinary applications in Japan. Omochi are small cakes made with pounded Japanese sticky rice. They are grilled and added to soups or wrapped in nori seaweed. Rice flour is used for pastries. Koji is a fermented rice culture that is used to make sake (rice wine). It is also added to soybeans to make miso (fermented soybean paste used to flavor soup broths). Rice bran oil is a specialty oil made in Japan as well as China and India, countries where rice bran is a big by product of the rice industry. You can use rice bran oil for cooking. It has a fairly high smoke point, so it is good for sauteeing and frying foods. Gohan
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Rice: Indian/Pakistan
Idli rice for idlis (with sambar) Basmati rice and biryani Indian and Pakistani rice culture has deep roots that stretch far and wide, both in its history and culinary applications. There are several hundred varieties of rice in India, but the main type best known here is basmati, which means “Queen of Fragrance.” Basmati is a long grain indica varietey grown in the Himalayan foothills of northern India and Pakistan. It is also considered an aromatic rice as it gives off a wonderful aroma while cooking. Basmati expands during cooking by length, becoming very, very long. There are some basmati rices that will cook to nearly an inch long, almost like pasta or spaghetti. Basmati is also very dry and fluffy when it cooks, not sticky. You should be able to see the grains separately. Dhera Dun is a growing region that is well esteemed. If you find a rice labeled Dehra Dun, it is high quality. Patna rice from West Bengal also has a good reputation. In India the best basmatis are aged for up to 10 years before milling, which improves the flavor and fluffiness when cooked. Mor typical is a basmati aged for 6 to 12 months. Basmati rice is easy to find in the Indian section of grocery stores. For more varieties, go to an Indian market, where you will also find White and Brown basmati rice is grown in the U.S. under the Texmati brand, and in California under the Calmati brand. Basmati is the basis of so many classic Indian dishes, including biryani. Different grades of rice are also used for idli, steamed dumplings made with ground, fermented rice and dahl (lentils) and served with an onion sambar (see photo upper right hand corner). Indians also have aval or poha, parboiled rice that is flattened and dried into flakes of different sizes. It is extremely easy and quick to work with. You add a little water to poha and then throw it in the pan with other cooking vegetables, such as potatoes and onions. Aval upma is rice flakes cooked with onions, chilis and coconut and is a traditional breakfast. Aval (Poha), then made inot aval upma
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Kalijira (Gobindavog)
Rice: Indian (cont) Here are a few more rices you might find at your local Indian/Pakistani market: (or, if you are lucky, in the International section of your local supermarket): Gobindavog or Kalijira rice from Bengladesh is a small, medium grain polished rice, like a miniature basmati. It is called the prince of rice, as well as Baby Basmati. Use plain or for pilafs and puddings. IT cooks up tender and had a delicate aroma. Rosematta is a parboiled red rice from Southern India with plump, long grains. Raw, it has a pinkish amber. As it cooks, there is a dark foam that rises, you can skim that off. Th cooked rice tastes a little earthy, like kidney beans, and has more white with some red flecks. Bhutanese Red Rice is a semi-milled, medium grain japonica variety from Bhutan, just west of Assam in the Himalayas. It does have a lovely pink color when cooked, from the bran. IT cooks faster than brown rice but not as fast as polished rice. Kalijira (Gobindavog) Rose Matta Bhutanese Red
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Aromatic Thai Jasmine Rice
Rice: Thai Aromatic Thai Jasmine Rice Thailand is huge rice producer and rice exporter, and is known for its high quality rices, most famously, the aromatic long-grain jasmine rice, which is a low-amylose indica rice (like basmati) that cooks up tender and just a little bit clingier than basmati. Jasmine rice is translucent before cooking. It benefits from washing and rinsing but you don’t need to soak it beforehand. Jasmine rice is most often cooked via the absorption method, but you can also steam it, as Thais sometimes do, in baskets, as they do with sticky rice. Thai sticky rice is the main rice of Northern and Northeastern Thailand. It is not your typical low-amylose sticky rice in that it is long grain. You will sometimes see the label as sweet or glutinous rice. But its starch is unique, and this sticky rice sticks together, but not to your hands, which is why Thai diners use it so gracefully to pick up savory foods served in bowls or on platters in the center of the table. The flavor is sweet and some say, grainy. Thai sticky rice definitely needs washing, and more importantly, soaking in water for a good long time, overnight even. If you are short on time, soak it in warm water instead of cool and you will get good results. Some people put a little bit of leftover sticky rice into the soaking bowl with new rice to add more flavor. The Thai way of preparing it is to steam it in a special basket, covered, making sure the rice never comes in contact with the water. Both Thai Jasmine and Sticky rices are being grown in the U.S. Thai sticky rice
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Thai black rice pudding
Rice: Thai Thai red rice Both Thai Jasmine and Thai sticky rices have sister strains which are gaining popularity among rice connoisseurs here in the U.S. Thai red rice is a rice that grows wild among jasmine fields, and is also a long grain rice.. IN other rice growing countries where a similar phenomenon happens (ie a wild red variety sprouts up in the fields with the main variety ) it is considered a nuisance. But now it is prized as a novelty rice. The red color is from the bran of the rice, which is left unmilled. Red rice is brittle and breaks easily during milling, which is why it is left unpolished. It is tasty and helathy. It is very similar to Himalayan red rice. It is a slender rice, so it requires less water to cook. However, it will take more time than polished Jasmine. Thai red rice is sometimes also labeled as cargo rice. Thai black rice is a long-grain, unmillled sticky rice that cooks up to a most astonishing purple-black hue. It is a gorgeous rice. Sometimes it is marketed as Forbidden rice. Because the bran is left on, the grains don’t stick together after cooking. I know this contradicts what we know about sticky rices, but it’s true. In Thai cooking, black rice is often mixed and cooked with Thai sticky rice so you get the best of both worlds: gorgeous color and stickiness. Black rice is used stricly for Thai desserts such as puddings, but there is no reason why you can’t serve it with savory dishes here. Thai black rice pudding Thai black rice
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Rice: Italian Arborio Carnaroli Vialone Nano Risotto
The world of rice is astounding. There are dozens of types around the globe. Here we will talk about a couple dozen, how they are used and where you can find them Italy’s Po River Valley west of Milan has been a rice producing region since the 15th century. Likely rice came to Italy via the Spanish. The rice grown here is medium and short grain japonicas. ARBORIO: Best known Italian rice, medium to short grain, used for risotto. Superfino arborio indicates the highest grate. It is named for the town of Arborio in the Po Valley region of N. Italy, where it is grown. CARNAROLI: Medium grain Italian rice is considered the best kind to use for risotto. It is more expensive and has higher amylose content, so it stays firmer in cooking. VIALONE NANO: Premium risotto rice. Grains are shorter and fatter than Carnaroli. All three of these rices are available at Italian markets or upscale markets or via mail order. They are the classic rice used for risotto, a creamy rice dish that welcomes all kinds of ingredients: fish, vegetables, meat, sausage. Risotto is made by slowly adding broth to the rice and stiring constantly. Leftover risotto is great for arancini, or fried rice balls. Risotto
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Rices: Spanish Valencia Paella Bomba
The Moors first brought rice to Spain, where it now grows in the Valencia region. Back in the 18th century, Spanish authorities tried to stop rice cultivation for fear that rice fields were a breeding ground for malaria mosquitos. People had become attached to their rice, however, and continued to grow rice. Like Italy, medium and short grain japonica varieties are favored. Spain’s classic rice dish is paella, a rustic, add-antyhing you have around kind of dish that is traditionally cooked outside over an open fire in a large, shallow pan called a paella pan. It is a showcase for another prized Spanish ingredient: Saffron, a spice from the crocus flower. IT had either rabbit, sausage, or seafood. BOMBA is the premium, medium-grade rice from Spain used for this dish. The grains are large. This rice is pricy and hard to find. VALENCIA rice is a medium or short grain rice that is similar to arborio. It works great for paella. But you can substitute risotto rices for paella recipes. Paella
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Rices: Turkish/Egyptian
Egyptian Calomino rice and kusheri, a classic lentil-rice stew Both Turkey and Egypt have been cultivating medium grain japonicas for centuries. Here are two varieties to take note of. I have TURKISH BALDO RICE is the foundation for Turkish pilaf, which in turn is fashioned into myriad classic Turkish dishes. It is a small grain rice. If you can’t find it, I’ve read Turkish cooking blogs suggest Japanese-style sushi or nishiki rice. I have occasionally spotted baldo rice in a Turkish-owned Halal market in Rochester. Otherwise, there are many online retailers that sell it. Egyptian Camolino rice grons along the Nile River delta. It Dishes using rice include kusheri, a tomato-infused rice and lentils dish; rice-stuffed vegetables and grape leaves (dolmades), rice-stuffed pigeon, very common throughout the Mediterranean, and Turkish classics: Baldo rice and pilav with eggplant
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(Persian rice and noodles)
Rices: Persia Reshteh Polo (Persian rice and noodles) Chelo with tahdig The rice cuisines of Central Asia and Persia often get overlooked, as there has been very little work done to translate their cooking to English speakers. In Iran, for example, the way to cook rice seems complicated to our ears, but it really isn’t. Yet the results of chelo, which is everyday rice in Irao, is wonderful. The classic accompanimnent are kebabs and yogurt sauce. Iranian rice is not sold in the U.S., but a good long-grain, high-amylose rise like basmati will work fine. You soak the rice in water, boil it like pasta until it is only partially cooked. After draining, you return it to the pot, but first you line the pot with butter or oil, them maybe a little yogurt or egg (a protein binder), and another layer of starchy food – perhaps bread, potatoes or rice. Then the partially cooked rice goes on top, the lid is coverd, and you cook for another half hour or so until a wonderful crust forms on the bottom and the rice had finsihed cooking. You invert the chelo on a platter so the crispy tahdig is on top. It is delicious. Polo is another preparation style where other ingredients are cooked along with the rice, similar to pilaf. ttp://checkitoutavesta.blogspot.com
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Louisiana Popcorn Rice
Rice: North America The Della Rices Louisiana Popcorn Rice Louisiana Pecan Rice As we talked about earlier, South Carolina and Georgia had a rice industry from colonial times until the late 19th century. The rice, Carolina Gold, was sought after not only here, but on the other side of the Atlantic. The rice is a long grain with delicate flavor, with grains that stay distinct and fluffy when cooked. Carolina rice set the standard for rice in the U.S., and cooking it plain, with just a little oil and salt, Carolina rice has been grown in the big rice states, and is making a comeback in South Carolina as a specialty crop. Carolina Gold Rice belongs in a sub grouping of American rices called Della rices, long grain aromatic rices that cook up light and fluffy Louisiana Pecan Rice or wild pecan rice from Louisiana gives off a nutty aroma --- like pecans --- while cooking. It is available as a brown rice and parboiled through online retailers. Louisiana Popcorn Rice tastes like, you got it, buttery popcorn. Louisiana has incorporated rice into is Cajun cooking with dishes such as gumbo (okra stew) served over rice, jambalaya (a mixture of rice, seafood, sausage) and dirty rice (Chicken gizzards and livers cooked with rice). Carolina Gold Rice
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Designer rices by Lundberg Bros. in California
Rice: North America The Lundberg Brothers of California’s Sacramento Valley have been in the rice farming business since the 1930s. The company grows a variety of foreign rices that make a home here in the U.S., including a white and brown jasmine, white and brown basmati, California sushi rice, arborio and long grain rices and brown rices. It has also developed its own designer rices. Wehani is one of them, derived from a basmati type seed. The long grain aromatic red-colored rice is unmilled and has a chewy texture texture and nutty flavor. The red color is from the bran. Some rices have red-hued bran instead of brow, which is what we are used to seeing. Black Japonica is a Lundberg blend of a red medium-grain rice and a black short-grain japonica type rice. Like Wehani, it is unmilled, so cooking time is longer. The grains split open during cooking to reveal their white insides. The texture is chewy, like wheat berries. Designer rices by Lundberg Bros. in California
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Spring rolls wrapped in banh trang rice papers
Rice: Other Foods Rice flour (regular/mochi) Pastries/desserts Noodles Banh trang Wagashi Just as with other grains, rice can be used for many other foods besides rice. FLOUR: It can be ground into flour, both brown rice flour and white rice flour. Mochi, or sweet rice flour, is made with a glutinous (waxy) rice, and is ideal for pastries. Above is a Japanese cake called wagashi that is made with rice flour, sugar and water. You mix the dough, steam it partially so it will hold a form, then mold the cakes into a pattern> Here it is leaves. The cakes are then steamed once more. NOODLES: Once you have flour, you can make rice noodles. Wide, flat rice noodles are the base for Vietnamese pho, a beef-noodle soup with a rich beef broth. RICE PAPER WRAPPERS Vietnamese spring and summer rolls are wrapped in banh trang, translucent rice papers with tapioca flour that are dried in thin sheets. You soak them in warm water for a minute or so to make them supple, then use them to wrap lettuce, shrimp and noodles and other fillings. Spring rolls are fried. Summer rolls are served cold, without frying. Both are served with some kind of dipping sauce, maybe rice vinegar, fish sauce, chiles and a little sugar. Pho Spring rolls wrapped in banh trang rice papers
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Rice: Other foods (cont)
Rice vinegar Wine: Shaoxing, Mirin Puffed rice: Muri Hon-Mirin Japanese rice vinegar Rice vinegar is made and used prolifically in China, Japan and Korea. The traditional method for making it called for treating cooked rice and water with yeast, fermenting the sugar in the grain, which then produced alcohol that was aged into vinegar via bacteria. The result was a very complex, rich vinegar. It is difficult to find rice vinegars made this way anymore. The more common, modern production method uses rice wine lees (the by product of rice wine production) and alcohol. Japanese rice vinegars tend to be more mild and sweet than Chinese vinegars. In fact, Chinese rice vinegars can be white, black (made with black glutinous rice) and red (from the yeast). Chinese vinegars are very intesting. If you can find one, try it. The Japanese mix rice vinegar with sugar and mix it with rice that is used for sushi. American vingars are much stronger than Asian vinegars. If you have to substitute, I would recommend apple cider vinegar, and cut the amount in half. Rice is also used for a variety of alcoholic beverages: Japanese sake, beer, Korean soju (a strong, sweet liquor) For culinary uses, the Chinese Shaoxing wine is a key aromatic ingredient. It is a blend of glutinous rice, rice millet, yeast and spring waters. It has a high alcohol content (about 18 percent) and the good stuff is aged for about 10 years. It is usually drunk warm. It is also used proflicially in cooking, with a few sprinkles finishing off stir frys, more for braised dishes. Unfortunately, what is most prevalent in Asian markets and grocery stores, is the cooking wine equivalent of Shaoxing, which is heavily salted and pretty yucky stuff. You are probably better off subsituting a good sherry. Japanese Mirin is a sweet sake that is also used in small amounts in salad dressings, soups and stir-fries or over deep-fried foods. It is what make teriyaki dishes glazed. Hon-mirin is naturally brewed, while AJI-MIRIN has corn syrup and other additives. If possible, choose hon-mirin. PUFFED RICE. If you think puffed rice has only been around as long as Rice Krispies, you haven’t yet heard about muri, which is how Indians refer to this common form of rice. Puffed rice used to be made by putting unhulled rice in a big pan with hot sand. Therice grains would explode out of the husks due to the buidling pressure of the steam from the moisture inside the rice kernel (kind of like popcorn). Indians use muri or puffed rice in a very popular snack food (chaat) called behl puri, pictured above. Shaoxing wine Puffed rice, also called muri, mumura or mumra Behl puri made with muri
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Rice: Buying/Storing/Cooking
Buy from retailer that turns over quickly Cool, dry, dark place, airtight containers Polished rices last indefinitely. Brown rices not as long. Read package instructions First, buy from a store that knows its rices and turns them over quickly. Some supermarkets would fall into this category, but frankly, my personal preference is to shop at Asian or Middle Eastern markets whose staff and customers really know the stuff. Polished rice keeps for a long time. It may dry out over time, but it will keep, so keep that in mind if you are contemplating a 20 pound bag. Store it in a cool, dry, DARK place (so it won’t fade in color), and of course, keep it in airtight containers. Brown rices have oil, so they will go rancid, but they are not as perishable as whole grain flours. I like to use my brown rices within a few months of purchase. We have talked about general cooking guidelines for different varieties, but for specifics, read package instruction for washing, soaking cooking directions and also very importanly, the proper ratio of rice to water. You may need to adjust water, depending on the size of your cooking pot. It’s a big, nice world of rice out there. Try something different and enjoy! Have a rice day!
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