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Fabric construction Types of Fabrics
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Fabric Construction The Three Basic Types of Fabric: WOVEN KNIT
NON-WOVEN The yarns are then made into fabric, they are either woven or knit together,or the fibers are matted together and glued.
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Woven Fabrics Made on a loom Harnesses Shuttle
Hold the Warp or lengthwise yarns during weaving Go up and down and determine the weaving pattern Shuttle Holds the weft or crosswise yarn during weaving. Shuttles are thrown back and forth in between rows of lengthwise yarns
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Hand Weaving
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Power Loom
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Woven Fabrics Made on a loom Lengthwise yarns are vertical (WARP)
Lengthwise yarns are stronger Go up and down on your body Crosswise yarns are horizontal (WEFT) Go across your body Woven Fabrics have different types of weaves.
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Three Basic Types of Woven Fabrics Are:
Plain Twill Satin Woven Fabrics have different types of weaves.
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Plain Weave It is called a “PLAIN WEAVE” because it is the most simple type of weave. The first yarn will go over one and then under one. The second yarn will do exactly the opposite. The third one, will repeat the first and the forth one will repeat the second. The first type is plain weave. Characteristics Fairly strong Easy to sew Examples Shirts Dresses
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Plain Weave
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Twill Weave The “TWILL WEAVE” is designed for STRENGTH & DURABILITY.
The first yarn will go over Two and then under two of the lengthwise yarns. The second yarn will rotate one over and then repeat the same pattern. The third one rotate one over again, and then repeat the same pattern When it is finished, you will see the illusion of a diagonal appearance. 3rd is Twill Weave Characteristics Fairly strong Wrinkle resistant Hides Soil Examples Denim Gabardine
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Twill Weave
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Satin Weave The “SATIN WEAVE” is designed to create a shine on the surface of the fabric. To get a shine there must be two things happening. 1. The type of fiber must be made of a fiber that can shine. 2. The way it is woven will enhance the shine capability This style of weave is called a “Random Weave” because there is no order to the weave of the crosswise yarns. Next is Satin Weave Characteristics Snags Less Durable Wrinkles Shows Stains Hard to Sew With Examples Dressy Blouse Fancy Dresses
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Satin Weave
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Knits are made of interlocking loops
Characteristics of knit fabrics Stretches Resilient (which means returns to original shape Wrinkle Resistant The next way fabric is created is by knitting. .Characteristics .stretches .returns to original shape .wrinkle resistant .Examples .T shirt .Active wear Knit has 2 different types though.
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The “Knit Side” shows the face of the fabric
“Purl Side” shows the back of it. The next way fabric is created is by knitting. .Characteristics .stretches .returns to original shape .wrinkle resistant .Examples .T shirt .Active wear Knit has 2 different types though.
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Knits: -Single Knit /Jersey-
Has a front (KNIT SIDE) and back (PURL SIDE). The edge will curl when you stretch it. It is the only one that the front and back look different. The next way fabric is created is by knitting. .Characteristics .stretches .returns to original shape .wrinkle resistant .Examples .T shirt .Active wear Knit has 2 different types though.
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Knits: -Double- Two layers of jersey made back to back.
Looks the same on both sides. The edge does not curl. The next way fabric is created is by knitting. .Characteristics .stretches .returns to original shape .wrinkle resistant .Examples .T shirt .Active wear Knit has 2 different types though.
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Knits –Ribbed- It has an ultra-stretch Looks the same on both sides.
You will see ridges in between the knit rows. It has an ultra-stretch The next way fabric is created is by knitting. .Characteristics .stretches .returns to original shape .wrinkle resistant .Examples .T shirt .Active wear Knit has 2 different types though.
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Non Woven Fabric is made by gluing fibers together. Characteristics:
It does not have “GRAIN” It has No resilience. If you stretch it does not return to its original shape Requires special sewing techniques Typically Used for Crafts & Décor items Then the last type of fabric is non woven. This is where the fibers are matted together and glued. .Characteristics .no grain .no stretch or give .requires special sewing techniques .
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NonWoven Felt Felt EXAMPLES & Felt Crafts
– Felt is a fabric that is used mostly for crafts. - It has very little stability or resilience. - It usually comes in brilliant colors. Here are some examples of Non Wovens. Examples .interfacing .diapers (pictured) .hospital gowns (pictured) and sheets .cleaning cloths .felt (pictured) Felt & Felt Crafts
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NonWoven Interfacing -Interfacing is used to stabilize fabrics and change the body. In some places on a garment may need more stiffness, strength or heavier drape. On this Jacket Interfacing is used in the collar, the lapel and the cuffs to help them be more functional. Here are some examples of Non Wovens. Examples .interfacing .diapers (pictured) .hospital gowns (pictured) and sheets .cleaning cloths .felt (pictured)
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NonWoven Dryer Sheet - A dryer sheet is made from the same material as the interfacing. The difference is that the dryer sheet has fabric softener applied to it. The fabric Softener will melt in the dryer heat and go into the laundry. Here are some examples of Non Wovens. Examples .interfacing .diapers (pictured) .hospital gowns (pictured) and sheets .cleaning cloths .felt (pictured)
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NonWoven Batting -Batting is used on the inside of a quilt or wall hanging. This is the part of the blankets that makes the blanket heavier and warmer than just two pieces of fabric together. Here are some examples of Non Wovens. Examples .interfacing .diapers (pictured) .hospital gowns (pictured) and sheets .cleaning cloths .felt (pictured)
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NonWoven Diapers -Diapers are a great use of non wovens. And they help keep children dry. The non woven fibers are used on disposable diapers to hold the diaper together from the outside Here are some examples of Non Wovens. Examples .interfacing .diapers (pictured) .hospital gowns (pictured) and sheets .cleaning cloths .felt (pictured)
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Fabric Characteristics
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Fabric Characteristics
Selvage Edge: The uncut edges that do not fray Follows the lengthwise direction of the fabric Cut/Raw Edge: This is the edge that is cut and will fray Lengthwise Grain: Also called the “Warp Yarns/Threads” These are the longest yarns in the fabric Crosswise Grain: Also called the “Weft Yarns/Threads” These yarns go from Selvage to Selvage
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Fabric Characteristics
Selvage Edge
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Fabric Characteristics
Straight of Grain: Refers to the lengthwise direction of the fabric… True-Bias: Refers to the diagonal Direction on the fabric…
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Fabric Characteristics
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Important Information you need to know about Fabric
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How are “woven” fabrics made?
Woven Fabrics are made on a “Loom”
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How are “knit” fabrics made?
A yarn that is looped together to create a solid piece of fabric with a stretch
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How are “non-woven” fabrics made?
Random fibers that are glued together. There is not a straight of grain on “non-woven” fabrics. “Non-woven” fabrics are not durable because of the way they are made.
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What is the “selvage edge” ? is the un-cut edge that doesn’t fray…
… and follows the “lengthwise grain” of the fabric.
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What does it mean to work with the “true-bias” ?
Cutting the fabric at a 45* degree, diagonal angle
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Fabric that does not normally stretch, will stretch on the “bias”
What are some unique characteristics when working with fabric on the “bias” ? Fabric that does not normally stretch, will stretch on the “bias”
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What are some unique characteristics when working with fabric on the “bias” ?
Fabric cut on the “bias” can change the direction of a print Fabric cut on the “bias” changes the way the fabric drapes the body
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What does it mean for fabric to be “On Grain” ?
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Why is important to cut out your fabric “on grain” ?
Fabric cut “off grain” will make the seams hang crooked
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How is “lengthwise grain” related to “selvage edge” ?
The “lengthwise grain” follows the same direction as the “selvage edge”
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Fibers & FABRICS QUIZ www.ucutips.org/~hhutchings
Go to the following website. Take the fibers & fabrics quiz. Click on the link below. When it directs you to the website, hit the refresh button. Or you can open Internet Explorer and type this web address into your browser. You need to make sure to enter your first and last name and click the button that says “login and start” Your results will be sent to Mrs. Hutchings address. When you are finished with the quiz, ask Mrs. Hutchings for your fabric swatches so you can attach them to your packet. Last, You need to get the Quiz Fabrics From Mrs. Hutchings!
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