1. CLOSURES OR FASTENERS

2. Methods of fastening or closures used in the garment industry
Buttons and button holes
Zippers
Snaps
Hooks & eyes
Nylon touch & close fasteners
Miscellaneous

3. Buttons
Most buttons are both a decorative feature of the garment and functional closure.
But some buttons are strictly functional
Concealed button closures and buttons inside double breasted garments to help them hang smoothly
Some buttons are strictly decorative
Nonfunctional buttons at the wrists of most suits

4. Types of buttons
According to their structure and method of application buttons can be classified into following group
Sew through buttons
Shank buttons
Others

6. Plastic Metal Natural Composition of buttons Button size
The size of the button is measured in “lignes”, with 40 lignes equal to diameter of 1inch.
Ex 30ligne Diameter?
For irregular button, diameter measured at the widest place.

9. The number of buttons on a garment depends on the
Holding strength
Size of the button
Fit of the garment
Fashion trend
Button size for a particular garment is determined by
Number of units to be used in the style
Appearance desired
Some types of garments may use different sizes of same button type

10. Applying buttons
Two important factors
Button placement
Button attachment
A button should be positioned at

11. Button holes
Buttonholes while primarily functional but can also be decorative.
Whether decorative or functional they need to be smooth, even and secure.
A buttonhole should be long enough so the button can slip easily through the hole without strain or excessive wear.
Normally length of the buttonhole should be equal to the diameter of the button plus thickness of the button (if a button is of a round shape one).

12. Horizontal buttonholes tend to stay buttoned.
If the buttonhole is vertical, the button tends to slip out of the buttonhole when horizontal stress is applied.
In tight fitting clothing or areas under stress require horizontal buttonholes to keep the garment buttoned. (coats, jackets, neckbands, cuffs, pants plackets, waistbands)

13. Buttonholes should be spaced the same distance apart as the corresponding buttons (a) to avoid strain or bubbling between buttonholes (b).

15. Buttonhole types Thread buttonhole (worked) Bound buttonhole
Looped buttonhole
Slit buttonhole (in leather garments)
In-seam or slot (cannot withstand much stress as thread buttonholes)
Fused buttonhole

17. Worked button holes
Bound button holes

18. Bound button holes
Looped button holes
Piped button holes

19. ZIPPERS
Zippers are a fast, easy means of getting in and out of garments.
They have been widely used in ready-to-wear apparel. Because of their somewhat stiff nature, zippers are more appropriate than buttons for flat areas within garments.

20. Zippers are not well suited i some areas because the stiffness interferes with the intended drape of the fabric and results in zipper hump. Zipper hump is the term for a wavy zipper chain. It detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper.
Possible reasons for zipper humps
installation a zipper in a bias seam
stretching the fabric during application
zipper tape shrinkage
garment shrinkage
using a zipper in a fabric that is too soft to support a zipper ( zipper in lightweight knits)

21. Zippers may:
increase the size of an opening to allow the passage of objects
join or separate two ends or sides of a single garment
attach or detach a separable part of the garment to or from another.
decorate an item.

22. Components of a Zipper
Zipper Tape
Zipper chain
Zipper slider
Zipper teeth
Tab pull
Top and bottom stops (prevent the slider from leaving the chain at either end of the zipper)

23. 1 top tape extension
2 top stop
3 slider
4 tab pull
5 tape
6 chain width
7 bottom stop
8 bottom tape extension
9 single tape width
10 insertion pin
11 retainer box
12 reinforcement film

24. Zipper chain is the part of the zipper that interlocks when the zipper is closed.
A common problem associated with low quality zipper is ratching of zipper chain. This cannot be repaired once it occurs.

25. Zipper teeth
Separate-element zippers are made up of separate teeth. If a zipper teeth breaks off or pulls away from the tape, or if teeth somehow become unmeshed below the element the zipper no longer functions.
Continuous -element zippers or coil zippers are made by twisting a continuous strand of monofilament nylon spiral. Continuous-element zippers do not have sharp edges, so they do not snag fabric or scratch the skin as single element zippers sometimes do.

26. Zipper slider
The slider is the portion of the zipper that glides up and down the chain, engaging and disengaging the two halves of the chain. The slider of the zipper has a pull or tab for easy grasping.
Most zippers contain some sort of a locking mechanism within the slider which prevents the zipper from unzipping by itself.
Auto lock
Pin lock
Non lock

27. Zipper Size
The size of a zipper is denoted by the width of the zipper chain in millimeters.
For example, a size 7 zipper has a chain 7 millimeters wide. The larger the size of the zipper chain, the larger the number of the zipper.
Zipper Length
A zipper length is measured distance between top and bottom stops.

28. Zipper Types
The three main types of zippers are
(1) Conventional
(2) Separating, and
(3) Invisible

29. Conventional Zippers
A conventional zipper is by far the most common in ready-to-wear apparel. A conventional zipper has a visible chain; one end, or sometimes both ends, of the zipper remain attached when it is unzipped.
One end closed used in dress and trousers
Both ends closed pocket mouths, suit cases

31. Conventional zipper closed at one end
Conventional zipper closed at both ends
Two way zipper with opposite direction closed
Two way zipper with facing direction closed

32. Separating Zipper
Closed (forming fastening)
Opened completely
Invisible Zipper
Zipper is closed
Coil constructed

33. Snaps
A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair of interlocking discs commonly used in place of buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under one disc fits into a groove on the top of the other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snap fasteners are often used in children's clothing, as they are relatively easy for children to use.

34. Technically, snap fasteners are mechanical closures consisting of a closure unit and attaching unit.
There are two different types of snaps currently on the market
post-style
prong-style
A post-style snap has a shaft that requires a hole to penetrate the fabric. A prong-style snap has teeth that penetrate through the fabric.

35. Snaps can be used
On garments where there is little or no strain at the opening
Where smooth flat closure is required
In between buttons to prevent openings from gapping
Behind decorative buttons when there is no button

37. cap
socket
stud
post

38. Composition of snaps
Most snaps of either steel, brass or nickel are coated with nickel, zinc or enamel paint. Steel snaps should be properly finished to prevent rusting.
Plastic snaps are an alternative to metal snaps and come in both sewn on and mechanically attached styles. The major drawback of plastic snaps is that they are not durable as metal snaps. They melt in contact with hot iron and distort when dried in excessive heat.
Snap size
The appropriate snap size depends upon the weight of the fabric and the location and the intended job of the snap.

39. Snap tape
  Snap tape can be used to apply a series of snaps.
Advantages of snap tape is
snaps are evenly spaced
securely attached to the tape
easier to apply than attaching many snaps individually.
Snap tapes few disadvantages
colour choices are limited
set distance between the snaps on the tape limits design flexibility in snap placement.
Another problem is that the tape used to reinforce snaps may shrink during washing and this will result in distorting fabric and causing “snap hump”.

40. Some of the most common uses for prong-style snaps are
• Cardigans, shirts, vests • Lightweight jacket • Fleece garments • Children's wear • Home décor • Uniforms • Sleepwear

41. Post-style snaps are best used with densely woven or natural/synthetic fabrics. Some of the most common uses for post-style snaps are:
• Leather jackets • Heavy outer wear jackets • Denim jackets/jeans • Purses/bags • Boat covers

42. Hook & Eye
A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two parts, each sewn to their respective pieces of cloth, one with a small protruding blunt hook, and the other with a small loop (also known as the "eye" or "eyelet") protruding.
Hooks and eyes are hidden fasteners. They can be used to hold edges together.
Hooks and eyes are available in several sizes and colors to match different fabrics.

43. Composition
Hooks and eyes are usually made of same metals as snaps. Bra hooks for bra backs have two or more sets of eyes for each hook so the wearer can adjust the bra to different circumferences.
Uses
Most hook & eye use in stress point of the garment openings, such as at the wrist line or neckline. However they can be used to close the entire garment opening.

44. Hook and Eye

45. Nylon touch and close fasteners (VELCRO®)
This fastener consist of two strips which grip when press together by means of tine hooks on the one strip into tiny loops on the other strip.
This is concealed closure and can be used only in areas that lap. For comfort manufactures usually attach the hook portion of the tape to the under lap and the loop portion to the overlap.
These available in various widths and gripping strengths and holding power of the tape.
A disadvantage of hook & loop tape is that it adds considerable stiffness and bulk to the garment; it is incompatible with soft fabrics because its stiffness interferes with the drape of the garment.

46. Uses
Can be used instead of buttons. Snaps, or hooks and eyes
On garment details such as detachable collars, cuffs and trimmings
On lab coats and uniforms
On belts
On garments to facilitate ease in dressing
When rapid removal of garment is desired
On closures garments made for handicapped

48. Miscellaneous fastening
Frog
D-Rings An effective, adjustable closure. Require two rings to complete the closure.
Buckles Buckles of various types, materials, shapes and sizes are used as functional fasteners and as decorative details.
Cords or ties
Lacing
Elastics waistline of a shorts
Drawstrings

53. Factors governing the selection of fastening

54. Functional performance of findings and trims
Dimensional Stability
Shrinkage
Elongation and Elasticity
Appearance Retention
Abrasion Resistance
Colorfastness
Crocking
Heat Resistance
Comfort
Ease of Care
Safety
Strength
Resistance to Degradation