1. Principles of Hair Design
Chapter 14
2012edition
Principles of Hair Design

2. Design is:
* foundation of all artistic applications
Designers have a strong visual eye
*design the best hairstyle for your client

3. Analyze the entire person
* elements and principles of design
* enhance positive features
* minimize negative ones
Develop artistic skill and judgment

4. Bestfashions.blogspot.com
Celebhairstyles.wordpress.com

5. Trendynewhairstyles.blogspot.com

6. Philosophy of Design
See the end result before beginning
Inspiration comes from:
* movies, TV, magazines…
* sparks the creative process
Best source
* found in nature

7. Hairstyle from an earlier time
* inspire you
Follows fashion trends
*create the total look

8. Decide:
* tools and techniques needed to achieve design
-cutting shears, flat irons, perm, color, etc
develop or practice a technique

9. Be open to change
*creative process
-exciting and satisfying
Develop a visual understanding
* styles work best
-face shapes
-body types

10. Train your eye
Review these pages over and over
Best teacher
* time
* trial-and-error process
* experience

11. Strong design foundation
* great stylist
* creative juices
* beyond the basics
* take calculated risks
“safe” = “dull”

12. “cookie cutter” stylist
* everyone gets the same haircut or design
Explore new possibilities
* customizing your design -individual needs and lifestyle
Think out of the box

13. Matriz.com
thestar.com

14. Great hairstylists:
* find inspiration everywhere
* keeping an eye out for what is new
* dedicate themselves to their continuing education
Have your eyes and mind always open to learning

15. Elements of Hair Design
Five basic elements of design
Line
Form
Space
Texture
Color

16. Line
Defines form and space
Creates
* shape
* design
*movement
Eye follows
* straight or curved

17. Horizontal lines
* width
* same direction
* constant distance apart

18. Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com
Hairstyle-blog.com

19. Vertical lines * length and height * appear longer * narrower
Bestwomenstyle.com
hairfinder.com

20. Diagonal lines
* between
-horizontal vertical lines
Emphasize
*minimize facial features
Creates interest

21. Hubpages.com
Nowchic.com

22. Just-for-mom.kaboose.com
Zimbio.com

23. Curved lines
* soften a design
Full circle
* part of a circle
Horizontally, vertically, or diagonally
Repeating in opposite directions create a wave

24. Latesthairstyle.net
Latest-hairstyles.com
Beauty.about.com

25. Designing with Lines
Created by type of line, direction, or combination
Single lines
* one length hairstyles
* lowest maintenance

26. Toniandguy.com.au

27. Parallel lines
* repeating lines
* straight or curved
* more interest
Finger wave
* curved parallel lines

28.                                     
Blacknews.com
Mirror.co.uk
Healthytextures.typepad.com

29. Contrasting lines
* horizontal and vertical lines -meeting at a 90 degree angle
Creates a hard edge
Strong look

30. z.about.com
Hypnoticsalon.com

31. Transitional lines * curved lines * blend and soften - horizontal
- vertical lines
Haircutshairstyles.com
Hairstyles53.com

32. Form
General outline of the hairstyle
Three-dimensional
* length
* width
* depth
Volume

33. Silhouette
* overall design
* client will respond to first
In proportion
* shape of the head and face
* length and width of the neck
* shoulder line

34. Lifeandtrend.com
Fashionhaircuts.blogspot.com
Short-hairstyles-pictures.blogspot.com

35. Space
Area the hairstyle occupies
Every angle
* keep in mind
- forms being created
- spaces as well
Curls, waves, straight hair, or any combination

36. Hairstyles.hairboutique.com
Modelbride.com
Romance-fire.com

37. Design Texture
Wave patterns
Described as
* straight
* wavy
* curly
* extremely curly

38. Straight hair reflects light
* single line haircut
Wavy hair
* combed into horizontal lines
Curly and extremely curly
* do not reflect much light
* coarse to the touch

39. * larger form than straight or wavy hair
Curly hair
* larger form than straight or wavy hair
Beauty.abut.com
Diylusional.livejournal.com

40. Creating Design texture with Styling Tools
* temporary
* heat or wet
Curling iron or hot rollers
* wave or curl

41. Setssalon.ca
amozon.com
Appliance.com
Bridalwave.tv
Hair-style-magazine.cm

42. Rollers/pin curls/finger waves *temporary textured pattern changes
Curly hair
* straightened
Crimping irons
* interesting zigzags
Rollers/pin curls/finger waves
*temporary textured pattern changes
Blisssalonstore.com

43. Hairs.com
Hairs.com
jouez.blogspot.com
Madhatta.buzznet.com
Hubpages.com

44. Changing Design Texture With Chemicals
Permanent
* until new hair grows in
Curly hair
* straightened
Straight hair
*curled with permanent waves

45. Tips for Designing with Wave Patterns Many wave pattern combinations
* overly busy look
* multitextured
-less appropriate
for professionals
Community.livejournal.com
Popgloss.com

46. Smooth wave patterns
* accent the face
Use to narrow a round head shape
*** make smaller
Curly wave patterns
* attention away from the face
* soften square or rectangular features

47. Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
Easycurls.com
Beauty.about.com
Community.livejournal.com

48. Color
Important role in hair design
* visually
* psychologically
* appear larger or smaller
* defines texture and line
* ties design elements together

49. z.about.com
Yourhaircolorideas.com
Hairbrained.wordpress.com

50. Dimension with Color
Light and warm
* illusion of volume
Dark and cool
* recede or move in toward the head * illusion of less volume
Illusion of dimension
*lighter and warmer colors alternate with darker and cooler colors

51. Withintheblackcommunity.blogspot.com
Short-hair-style.com
Profile.myspace.com

52. Lines with Color
Eye is drawn to the lightest color
* light color to draw a line in a hairstyle
* direction you want the eye to travel
A single line of color
*bold, dramatic accent

53. Music.kpopshare.com
Profile.myspace.com
Thecuttingchair.com
Naturallycurlyhair.com

54. Color Selection
Tone compatible with the skin
Gold tone in skin
* warm hair colors in hair
Natural tones
* two or more colors
* similar tones
* within two levels of each other

55. Strong contrast is attention grabbing
Trendy and can carry off a bold look
Flickr.com
Fotolia.com

56. Principles Of Hair Design
Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony
*basis of hair design
Understanding these principles
* more confidence
* creating styles that are pleasing to the eye

57. Proportion
Comparative relationship
* one thing to another
Very small chin/very wide forehead
*not in proportion
A well-chosen hairstyle
*illusion of better proportion

58. Body proportion
Essential
* client’s body shape and size
Challenges
* hair form too small
* too large
Large hips or broad shoulders
* more volume

59. Naturallycurly.com
Cury-hair-styles-magazine.com

60. Large hair
* out of proportion on a petite woman
Hair should not:
* be wider than the center of the shoulders

61. Beyond center of shoulder
G-ecx.images.amazon.com
Cute-hair-cuts.blogspot.com

62. Balance
Equal or appropriate proportions
*create symmetry
Height to width
Symmetrical or asymmetrical
Dissatisfied
*style is out of balance

63. Measure symmetry
* divide the face
* four equal parts
Style
* pleasing to the eye
* in correct balance

64. Symmetrical balance
Imaginary line
* through the center of the face
* two halves
-mirror image of one another
Both sides same distance
same length
same volume

65. Zimbio.com
Bridal-hair-styles.com
Kaboodle.com
Pro.corbis.com

66. Asymmetrical balance
Imaginary halves
*equal visual weight
*appear equal but positioned unevenly
Opposite sides * different lengths
* different volume
Can be horizontal or diagonal

67. Hji.co.uk
hairextensiions,.network.com
Hairstylescut.com

68. Fast rhythm-tight curls
Recurrent patttern
Fast rhythm-tight curls
Slow rhythm-larger shaping/long waves
Fashiontribes.typepad.com
Stylebell.files.wordpress.com

69. Emphasis
Draws the eye first
*rest of the design
Create interest:
* Wave patterns * Color
* Change in form * Ornamentation

70. Easy-hairstyles.com
Beautytwist.com
Brides.com
Hairstyles53.com

71. * easy for the eye to follow Multiple points *decrease in size
Choose
* want to emphasize
Design simple
* easy for the eye to follow
Multiple points
*decrease in size
-importance
Remember, less is more
Hubpages.com

72. Harmony
Creation of unity
* most important principle
* holds all of the elements of the design together
* a form with interesting lines
* pleasing color

73. * combination of color and textures
* balance and rhythm -strengthen the design
Never too busy

74. In proportion
* facial and body structure
* area of emphasis
Facial features
* analyzed
* strengths and weaknesses

75. *** Most important point in this chapter!!!
Your job
* accentuate a client’s best features
*downplay features that do not add to the person’s appearance

76. Artistic and suitable hairstyle *physical characteristics
Shape of the head
* front * profile * back
Features (perfect and imperfect)
Body posture

77. Influence of Hair Type on Hairstyle
* major consideration
Two characteristics:
* wave pattern
* hair texture

78. Considerations:
* natural wave patterns
* texture
* density
choosing a style

79. Fine, straight hair
* hugs the head shape
* no body or volume
* styling aids or chemical services

80. Salonbliss.com
Lovehair.blogspot.com
Bellasugar.com

81. Straight, medium hair
* more versatility
* responds well to blow-drying
* good amount of movement

82. Antonshairstudio.com
Celebrityhairstyle.blogspot.com

83. * slightly wider silhouette *use flat brushes
Straight, coarse hair
* hard to curl
* more volume
* slightly wider silhouette
*use flat brushes
Bellaonline.com
Hairstyle-blog.com

84. * thermal styling
* flat brush
* blow-dryer/round brush
-too “poofy”
* chemical services may take a little longer

85. Wavy, fine hair * appear fuller - appropriate haircut - style
* layering
- fuller
Lovehair.blogspot.com
Haircutsfashion.com

86. * responds
- blow-drying
- chemical services
* can be fragile
* diffused
-fuller appearance

87. Wavy, medium hair * most versatility * easily straightened
* diffused
* easily straightened
- blow-drying
Hairthursday.com

88. Wavy, coarse hair
* silhouette can get very wide
* unruly if not shaped properly
* flattering shape
-easy to maintain
* soft perm for wash–and-wear curly style
*chemical relaxer

89. 43things.com
Beauty.about.com
Todaystylist.com

90. Curly, fine hair * separates * revealing scalp * mild relaxers
* color services
*blowdrying
not effective
in humid environment
Naturallycurly.com
Marieclaire.com

91. Curly, medium hair * wide silhouette *natural -soft romantic look
Healthyhairplus.com
Hairthursday.com

92. * wide silhouette
- proportion to body shape
* shaping
- weight line
* responds
- relaxers
- color

93. Curly, coarse hair * heavy styling products *shrinks when dry
-appears much shorter
Hairthursday.com

94. Very curly, fine hair
* most flattering shape
- determined first
- ease of styling
* best if cut short

95. Haircutsfashion.com
Awonderfuleverything.com

96. -extremely voluminous * chemical services * pressing * may be fragile
* left long
- wide
-extremely voluminous
* chemical services
* pressing
* may be fragile
Delush.com

97. Extremely curly, medium hair
* silhouette
- very wide
-looks wider rather than longer
* chemical relaxers
* hair pressing

98. * natural state - close to the head - ease of styling
- low maintenance
Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com

99. Extremely curly, coarse hair * extremely wide * chemical relaxing
* often too thick
- ponytail
* easy care hair
- short, cropped layers
Enotalone.com

100. Facial types
Facial shape
* position and prominence
* facial bones
Determine
* hair off of the face
* observe

101. * Triangle (pear-shaped) * Inverted triangle (heart-shaped) * Diamond
Seven basic facial shapes:
* Oval
* Round
* Square
* Oblong
* Triangle (pear-shaped)
* Inverted triangle (heart-shaped)
* Diamond
Hair completely off the face, observe

102. - most flattering design * create the illusion ~ oval-shaped face
* recognize each
- style the hair
- most flattering design
* create the illusion
~ oval-shaped face
*** “perfect shaped face” and can wear any hairstyle

103. Divide the face into three zones:
* forehead to eyebrows
* eyebrows to end of nose
* end of nose to bottom of chin

104. Add:
1/3
1/3
1/3

105. * basis for modifying all other facial types
Oval Facial Type
* basis for modifying all other facial types
Shapeyourstyle.com

106. Facial contour
* about 1 ½ times longer
- width across the brow
* forehead is slightly wider
- chin

107. ~ length and shape of nose ~ profile
* any hairstyle
- considerations
~ eyeglasses
~ length and shape of nose
~ profile
Shapeyourstyle.com

108. Celebrity examples:
Jewel
Cameron Diaz
Elle MacPherson
Julia Roberts
Sharon Stone

109. Round Facial Type Facial contour: * round hairline * round chin line
* wide face
Hairstyles-blog.com

110. * height or volume on top * closeness or no volume at the sides
Objective:
* illusion of length
* slimmer
Styling choice:
* height or volume on top
* closeness or no volume at the sides
Shapeyourstyle.com

111. Celebrity examples:
Kate Winslet
Drew Barrymore
Christina Ricci
Catherine Zeta-Jones

112. Square Facial Type
Facial Contour:
* wide at temples
* narrow at middle third of face
* squared off at jaw
Objective:
* offset or round out square features

113. Styling choice:
* soften the hair
- temples and jaw
* close to the head
* create volume
- temple and jaw
- width at the ear

114. Celebrity examples: Sandra Bullock Demi Moore Holly Marie Combs
Kristin Scott Thomas
Blog.fashionwindows.com
Shapeyourstyle.com

115. Triangular (pear-shaped) Facial Type
Facial contour:
* narrow forehead
* wide jaw
* wide chin line
Objective:
* illusion of width
- forehead

116. * hide narrowness of forehead
Styling choices:
* volume at the temples
* height at top
* hide narrowness of forehead
- bangs
(soft fringe)
Styletips101.com

117. Celebrity example: Kathy Ireland Hairdohairstyles.com
Rottentomatoes.com

118. Oblong Facial Type
Facial contour:
* long, narrow face
* hollow cheeks
Objective:
* make face appear
- shorter
- wider

119. Styling choice:
* keep close to top of head
- no volume
* volume to sides
- illusion of width
* hair not long
* chin length

120. Celebrity examples: Kirstie Alley Ron Pearlman Liv Tyler
Stephanie Seymour

121. Babble.com

122. Diamond Facial Type
Facial contour:
* narrow forehead
* extreme width through cheekbones
* narrow chin

123. Objective:
* reduce width across the cheekbone line
Styling choice:
* fullness
- jawline
- forehead

124. * close to head at cheekbone - create oval appearance
Hairstyles-blog.com
Beautynewsla.com

125. Celebrity example: Nicole Kidman
Celebrity example:
Nicole Kidman

126. Inverted Triangle Facial Type
(Heart shape)
Facial contour:
* wide forehead
* narrow chin line

127. Hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com
Teamsugar.com

128. Objective:
* decrease width
- forehead
* increase width
- lower part of the face

129. Styling choice:
* close to the head
* no volume
* bangs

130. *increase width - middle third - at cheekbone - near the ears
* widest at the jaw
-neck area
Hairdos411.

131. Celebrity examples:
Michelle Pfeiffer
Jennifer Love Hewitt
Ashley Judd

132. Profiles:
* outline of the face
- head
- figure seen in a side view
Straight profile
* considered ideal
- not convex or concave)
* all hairstyles are flattering

133. Inmagine.com

134. * receding forehead and chin - curls or bangs over the forehead
Convex profile
* receding forehead and chin
- curls or bangs over the forehead
- close to the head at nape
- move hair forward in the chin area
Sciforums.com

135. Concave profile
* prominent (sticks out) forehead and chin
* others recede inward
* softly style at the nape
- upward movement
- no hair on forehead

136. Straight face/prominent nose
Concave
Suddenlysenior.com

137. Special Considerations
* apply design principles
- balance facial structural challenges
* divide face
- three sections
- do analysis

138. Top Third of the Face
Wide forehead:
* hair over the sides of the forehead
Narrow forehead:
* direct the hair away from the forehead
* lighter highlights at temple - creates illusion of width

139. Receding forehead:
* bangs over the forehead - volume
Large forehead:
* bangs with little or no volume

140. The Middle Third of the Face
Close-set eyes:
* on long, narrow faces
* hair back away from the temples
* diagonal part

141. - corner of the eyes - illusion of width
* some height
* lightening
- corner of the eyes - illusion of width
Madisonmag.com
Hair-style-magazine.com

142. Wide-set eyes:
* round or square faces
* higher half bang
- length in the face
* illusion of the face being larger (longer)

143. - slightly darker at the sides
* eyes
- more proportional
* hair
- slightly darker at the sides
Memefirst.com
Zimbio.com

144. - off centered styles - attract the eye away from the nose
Crooked nose:
* asymmetrical
- off centered styles - attract the eye away from the nose
*symmetrical (remove “A”in book)
- accentuates face is not even

145. Boston.com
Flickr.com

146. * keep hair away from the face
Wide, flat nose:
* keep hair away from the face
* center part
- elongate and narrow the nose

147. Long, narrow nose:
Stay away from…
* hair tapered close to the head
* height on top
* middle part
* hair directed toward the face

148. * style hair away from face - illusion wider facial features
Do…
* style hair away from face - illusion wider facial features
Rocketrend.wordpress.com

149. * hair swept off the face * off the forehead - length to the nose
Small nose:
* hair swept off the face
* off the forehead
- length to the nose
Bordeglobal.com

150. * hair forward at forehead - softness around the face
Prominent nose:
* hair forward at forehead
- softness around the face
Starpulse.com

151. Lower Third of the Face Round jaw: * straight lines at jaw Square jaw:
* curved lines at jaw
Zimbio.com
Shapeyourstyle.com

152. Long jaw:
* hair full
* fall below the jaw
Gamespot.com

153. * hair forward in the chin area Small chin: * hair up and away
Receding chin:
* hair forward in the chin area
Small chin:
* hair up and away
- chin line
Sciforums.com
Pulpcouture.livejournal.com

154. - longer or shorter than chin *avoid drawing attention
Large chin:
* hair
- longer or shorter than chin
*avoid drawing attention
Cambridgeprivatehospital.co.uk

155. Head shape
* not all are round
* feel head shape
- choosing hairstyle
* design the style
- volume in areas, flat and small
- reduce volume for large or prominent areas

156. *** Pay close attention to head shape when performing:
Add to side bar:
*buzz cuts
*French twists

157. Styling for People Who Wear Glasses
* arm of the glasses
- push the hair at the ear
- cause it to stick out
* short haircuts
- little length around the ear
- cut the hair above the ear

158. * best to use the natural part * challenging
Hair Parts:
* focal point
* eye is drawn
* best to use the natural part
* challenging
- working against a natural part
*** often a trend/not always appropriate…
Thehairstyler.com

159. Parts for the Bangs (Fringe) Bangs: * triangular section
- begins at the apex
- highest point of the head
- ends at the front corners
Hairdohairstyles.com

160. Triangular part
* basic parting for fringe sections
Diagonal part
* height
- round or square faces
* width
- long, thin faces

161. Thecreativestudio.com
Dailymail.co.uk

162. Curved part
* receding hairline
* high forehead

163. Style parts:
* highlight facial features
Center parts are classic
* oval faces
* avoid
- prominent noses
*** less flattering features

164. Is this a good part for Sarah? Why or why not?
Uk.fashion.popsugar.com

165. * thin hair appear fuller
Side Parts
* develop height on top
* thin hair appear fuller
Hair-craft.co.uk

166. Diagonal * illusion of width - height Zigzag * dramatic effect
Short-hair-style.com
Flickr.com

167. Designing for Men
* all design principles and elements work for men
* all hair lengths are acceptable
* recommend styles
- flattering
- appropriate
~ lifestyle-career-hair type

168. Cool-mens-hairstyle.blogspot.com
123 hairstyles.com
Professinalhaircare.blogspot.com

169. Menshairstylesonline.com
Hairresources.com
hairstyleshaircuts.info

170. ***now men are
* “metrosexuals”
* care for themselves better than ever
* growing market
* impeccable skills
- excellent customer service
*key to successfully (lucratively)
- providing services to this client base

171. Choosing Facial Hair Design
*mustaches, beards, sideburns
* camouflage facial flaws
* no prominent chin
- neatly trimmed full beard
and mustache
*wide face/full cheeks
- close-trimmed beard/mustache

172. Menshair.about.com
Teen.aol.com
Lasfashionistas.blogspot.com

173. Menshair.about.com

174. Balding
* closely trimmed hair
* closely trimmed beard and mustache
Sideburns, mustaches, beards
* dictated by current trends/fashions
* well-groomed and flattering