1. Most Effective Types of Hair Dye and After-Care Treatments
Caitlin Boback and Kyla Semones
Cousino High School

2. Purpose
To find the best types of hair dyes and treatments in order to limit the damage exerted on hair when chemically processed
State purpose

3. Background – Hair Structure
This diagram shows the stucture of a single hair follicle. The hair follicle consits of three layers: cuticle, cortex, and medulla. Chemically processing hair only deals with the two outer ayers. The cuticle is the outermost layer. It has a scale like texture and acts as protection for the cortex. The cortex acts like an elastic coil. When hair is stretched, the cortex straigtens and eventually breaks. Proteins are located inside the cortex as well as pigment granuales which contain hair’s natural color

4. Treatments Hair dyes After-care treatments Ammonia-free Ammonia-based
Coconut oil and egg yolk
Store bought deep conditioner

5. How Hair Dye Works
Ammonia (alkaline) swells the hair cuticle by raising the pH level
In ammonia-free dye, monoethanolamine (MEA) is used
Ammonia and ammonia free dye act very similarly. After being mixed with hyrogen perxide, the first job of the hair dye is to swell the cuticle so the dye molecules can enter. This is done by rasing the naturally acidic pH of hair with the use of alkaline chemicals, which have a higher pH, making the hair follicle more basic. The ammonia dye uses ammonia for this job. It raises the pH and separates the scaales of the cuticle. The same happens in an ammonia free dye, but a much less harsh chemical is used calles MEA. MEA is also alkaline, but its pH is not as high as ammonia, so it does not separate the scales of the cuticle as much as ammonia soes.

6. How Hair Dye Works Dye is mixed with hydrogen peroxide
Molecules enter the cortex through raised cuticle
Ammonia-free
Ammonia
Like I said before, the hair dye is mixed with hyrogen peroxide right before being applied to the hair. It is important to apply right away or else the dye and the hyrogen peroxide will react before they enter the cortex. The difference between the ammonia and ammonia free dyes is the amount of product that gets inside the cortex. In an ammonia dye, most of the molecules get to enter the cortex throught the large gaps in the cuticle. But in the ammonia free dye, not as many molecules can fit throught the tiny gaps in the cuticle. This causes ammonia free dye to be less vibrant in color.

7. How Hair Dye Works Hydrogen peroxide breaks down
Peroxide breaks the bonds of pre-existing color
Oxygen bonds to and oxidizes the colorless molecules of the hair dye
Oxidized molecules swell and become colored due to reaction

8. After-care Treatments
Necessary after chemically processing hair
Product bonds to the scales of the cuticle and neutralizes the pH level
Water based products
The swelling of the cuticle so the hair dye can enter the cortex takes a large toll on the air follicle. As shown in this picture, a healthy cuticle looks like the bottom picture, and a damaged cuticle looks like the top.

9. Problem Statement
Which types of hair dyes and reconditioning treatments are best for hair health?
Kyla

10. Hypothesis Least damaging hair dye Most effective treatment
Ammonia-free
Most effective treatment
Coconut oil and egg yolk
Caitlin

11. Materials After-Care Treatments Hair Dyes Force Sensor
Some of the materials we used… Force Sensor, Hair dyes, after-care treatments
Force Sensor

12. Procedure Collect and measure hair samples
Dye hair samples with ammonia or ammonia-free hair dye
Treat samples with a deep conditioner or an oil and egg yolk treatment
Let dry overnight
First step is control
Let dry overnugth so evaporation occurs

13. Procedure Hair samples were split into groups Ammonia Ammonia free
Untreated (control)

14. Procedure
Kyla

15. Procedure
Max:
Explain Max and graph

16. Data Measured Tensile Strength (Newtons) Diameter of hair (mm)
Force Sensor
Diameter of hair (mm)
Caliper
Diameter was kept consistent becauase we did not want that to play a role in tensile strength

17. Data Analysis Two-sample t-test Ammonia vs. Ammonia free
Deep conditioner vs. Oil and egg on ammonia
Deep conditioner vs. Oil and egg on ammonia-free
We did three different two-same t-tests. One comparing the ammonia and ammonia free hair dyes. One comparing blah blah blah one comparing blah blah blah.

18. Data Analysis Assumptions Normal distributions Simple random samples
Independent groups
In order for the tests to be considered statistically accurate they must meet these three assumptions. First, each group has to be normal, because they each have 30 trials they can be considered normally distrubuted. Next, the trials must be randomized, we did this using the ti-nspire. Finally, the groups must be independent in the experiment.

19. Ammonia vs. Ammonia-Free
Ho : x 1 = x 2 Ha: x 1 < x 2

20. Ammonia vs. Ammonia-Free
P-value = Null hypothesis rejected
The resulting p-value was approximately 0. Since this is lower than the alpha value of 0.05, the null hypothesis was rejected. This means there is statistical evidence that the ammonia-free hair dye caused less damage to the hair. The p value graph shows that there is virtually no chance of getting these results again if the null hypothesis were true.

21. Ammonia: Deep Conditioner vs. Oil
Ho : x 1 = x 2 Ha: x 1 < x 2
The null hypothesis for the second two sample t test states that the mean tensile strength of the hair treated with the deep conditioner is equal to the mean tensile strength of the hair treated with the oil. The alternative hypothesis states that the mean tensile strength of the hair treated with the deep conditioner is less than the mean tensile strength of the hair treated with the oil.

22. Ammonia: Deep Conditioner vs. Oil
P-value = Null hypothesis rejected
The resulting p value was which was less than the alpha value of .05 this means the null hypothesis was rejected. There is evidence that the oil and egg treatment generated a higher tensile strength than the deep conditioner.

23. Ammonia-Free: Deep Conditioner vs. Oil
Ho : x 1 = x 2
Ha: x 1 < x 2

24. Ammonia-Free: Deep Conditioner vs. Oil
P-value = Fail to reject null hypothesis
The resulting p value is which is larger than the alpha value of 0.05 which fils to reject the null hypothesis. This means that there is no evidence that suggests that the oil was better at strengthening the hair compared to the deep conditioner. The p value graph shows the chance of getting these results again if the null were true, and as you can see it is a fairly large chance

25. Conclusion Least damaging hair dye Most effective treatment
Ammonia-free hair dye
Most effective treatment
Coconut oil and egg yolk
Treatments were equally effective on ammonia free dyed hair

26. Conclusion
Ammonia-free hair dye does not open the cuticle as much as ammonia
This allows less protein and moisture loss when compared
Ammonia-free hair dye does not work as well, but causes less damage
Ammonia free hair dye is less damaging to hair because the alkaline chemical used (MEA) is less harsh and does not raise the pH level of the hair as much as the ammonia dye does. This means the scales of the cuticle do not separate as much. Which means less moisture and proteins can escape through cuticle. Although ammonia free dye causes significantly less damage, it also does not color as well as ammonia dye as explained in the earlier animation. Since the ammonia-free dyed hair had less damage, the treatments had less work to do, therreofre they were equally effecive. However, there was not as much evaporation to occur since the scales were so close, but if measured a couple days later, then the oil would most likely have a hgiher tensile strength

27. Conclusion The main ingredient in commercial products is water
Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid
High affinity for proteins
Low molecular weight allows for easy access into cortex
Egg yolk easily bonds to cuticle scales and seals them

28. Related Research Richard Beyak US Food and Drug Administration
Commercial after-care treatments
US Food and Drug Administration
Hair dyes
Some experiments that were similar to ours included the research of Richard Beyak and the US Drug and Food Administation . Beyak tested multiple commercial after care treatments using a process very similar to ours. He found that after care treatments that did not have a high percentage of water were more effective at repairing the hair and increasing tensile strength. This is similar to our findings because the store bought deep conditioner had a very high percentage of water, and it was not as effective as the oil and egg treatment. The US food and drug admin tested hair dyes for safety purposes and found that permanent hair dye containing ammonia was very damaging and in some cases even caused hair loss. This is similar to the results we found because the ammonia hair dye was found to be very damaging.

29. Application Ammonia hair dye in salons Costs
Odd combination of egg and oil

30. Flaws Binder clip Water temperature Hair dye
A few flaws were observed during the experiments. First, the best way to attach the hair to the force sensor was by using a binder clip, but the clip was often times very unreliable, causing the hair to slip through sometimes making us unsure if the hair broke or if it just slipped through. Next the water temperature when washing the dye out of the hair was not always the same temperature, so this could have caused more or less damage onto the hair. Another flaw was sometimes leaving the hair dye in for a couple minutes longer than normal. Although the results were consistent, it is important to note.

31. Future Research Different humidity levels Different hair care products
Leave in conditioners
Moisturizing shampoos
Different hair types

32. Recap Ammonia-free hair dye causes less damage to hair
Coconut oil and egg yolk is more effective

33. Acknowledgments Mrs. Hilliard Mrs. Gravel Mr. McMillan
Colleen O’Connell

34. Works Cited
Beyak, Richard. "Elasticity and Tensile Properties of Human Hair." Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1968): P Web. 22 Sept < p00626.pdf>.
Breeling, James. "Hair Color: Biology, Mythology and Chemistry." Hair Foundation. The Hair Foundation, 21 May Web. 23 Sept < color.htm>.
C.F. Meyer, and G.s. Kass. "Tensile Properties of Human Hair." Cosmetic Chemists 20 (1969): Print.

35. Works Cited
Devash, Meirav. "Time for a Little Damage Control" Women's Health Apr. 2010: 110. Academic OneFile. Web. 23 Sept < 7CA &v=2.1&u=lom_accessmich&it=r&p=AONE&s w=w&authCount=1>.
Harrison, S. "Hair Colouring, Permanent Styling and Hair Structure." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 3-4 (2003): Wiley Online Library. 9 July Web. 22 Sept < x/abstract>.

36. Works Cited
Helmenstine, Anne Marie. "Hair Color Chemistry." About Education. About, 18 Aug Web. 22 Sept < 203a.htm>.
Murphy, Pat. "What Is Hair, Anyway?" Exploratorium 25 June Print. < tml>
Personal Interview
"Tensile Testing of Hair." Instron. Illinois Tool Works Inc. Web. 23 Sept < ting_Hair.aspx?ref=

37. Questions?