1. Haircolor vs Hair Color
Chapter 19

2. A hair colorist needs to become an expert in:
______________ natural hair color
_____________ or ______________ gray
___________________ natural hair color
Depositing color on previously colored hair (_______________)
Depositing color on hair that has been lightened (corrective)
Creating ___________________

3. Why do people color their hair?
Cover or blend gray
Enhance existing haircolor
Create a fashion statement of self- expression
Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure such as sun or chlorine
Accentuate a particular haircut

4. Hair facts
The ____________ of the client’s hair ______________________________ determined _____________________________
The hair structure effects the quality and ultimate success of haircolor service
Some haircolor products may cause a dramatic change in the structure of the hair, while others cause little change or can help repair
You must know how the products will effect the hair in order to make the best choice for your client

5. Hair structure: TEXTURE & how it effects haircolor
Melanin granules in __________ are grouped more tightly, so the hair _________________________________ _________________________________
_____________ texture hair has an _______________________ to haircolor
______________ hair has a larger diameter and ______________________

6. Hair structure: Density & how it effects haircolor
Density must be taken into account when applying haircolor to ensure proper coverage
Density also ___________________ the quantity of color or _________________________________ _________________________________

7. Hair structure: Porosity & how it effects haircolor
Porous hair ______________________________________ ______________________________________
______________________________________ and it is difficult for the moisture of chemicals to penetrate and may require a __________________________________
Average porosity should take an average amount of processing time and produce the best results
_____________________ means that the hair is overly porous and ______________________________________ __________ – requires preconditioning or use of a filler

8. Porosity Test
Take a strand of sever hairs, hold the strand securely with one hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp
If the hair feels smooth it has low porosity
If the hair feels slightly rough it is average
If the hair feels rough is has high porosity

9. Hair color _________________________________
Learning to identify a client’s natural hair color is the _______________________ to becoming a good colorist

10. Hair color & Haircolor Are based on a _____________________
Some manufacturers go as high as 12, however if you are talking about hair color it will always be based on 1-10

11. Melanin All hair has _____________ Eumelanin and Pheomelanin.
Eumelanin is ______________________
Pheomelanin is ____________________

12. Contributing Pigment Is also called the ____________________
It lies under the natural hair color and must be taken into consideration when you select a haircolor
When you lighten hair you _________________________________ _________________________________

13. Level system
_________________________________ _________________________________
Level is the _________________________________
Color names may vary from manufacturer to manufacture however the degree of lightness and darkness in each level will remain the same

14. Tone
_________________________________ _________________________________
Tones are described as warm or cool
_________________________________
Warm tones = gold, copper, auburn, burnt orange
Cool tones= platinum, ash, drab, blue

15. How to read a haircolor box
The number is the level 1-10
The letters mean:
n= __________________
r = red
rb = red brown
rv = _________________
ro = redorange
a= __________________
p = pearl / platinum
g = gold
k or c = kopper/copper
b= beige
gn = goldneutal
#’s 11 & 12 are always considered high lift series and act more like bleach or hair lightener with some of the benefits of haircolor
Many times boxes now say 6.66 or 6.1 (the .1 = a or ash & the .6 = r or red)

16. To determine natural level and tone
Take a ½ in square section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp – allowing light to pass through
Using a _________________________, select the swatch that matches the section of hair, place it up against the hair, you are trying to determine______________________________ ______________________________________
Move the swatch along the hair strand to determine the natural level

17. Base color Is the _________________________________
Example: a haircolor with a violet base color will deliver cool results and help minimize unwanted yellow tones / or a red-orange base will create the bright warm results that some clients are looking for

18. Law of color Primary colors: __________________________
These colors can not be achieved from mixing any other colors
Secondary colors:
____________________________
These colors are achieved by mixing___________________ colors together in_____________ parts

19. Law of color continued Tertiary colors
Redorange – redviolet – yelloworange – yellowgreen – bluegreen – blueviolet
These are created by ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________
Complimentary colors ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________
example: Red + Green = Brown (Neutral)

20. Types of Haircolor 2 categories: _______________________ Nonoxidative:
___________________________________
Oxidative:
Lighteners have a unique chemical property and falls into its own category

21. Temporary haircolor Used to neutralize an unwanted tone
______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________
Only _________________________________
Color rinses, color mousses or gel, hair mascara, spray on color, color enhancing shampoos

22. Semipermanent
_________________________________ _________________________________
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________
Lasts _________________________________ _________________________________
It is ______________________________
_________________________________

23. Demipermanent AKA ________________________________
____________________________________
Many use alkalizing agents other than traditional ammonia however that does not necessary make them any less damaging
Great for ______________________________________ ______________________________________
______________________________________
Color correction or _______________________

24. Permanent
_________________________________ _________________________________
They are more alkaline than deposit only
Used to cover gray hair w/ 20vol developer

25. Natural & metallic haircolors
_________________________________
They coat the hairshaft
Shade ranges are limited
If this client was to come to the salon they would be upset to find out that out _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________

26. Hydrogen peroxide ___________________________
________________________________________
Is an oxidizing agent – that supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color
____________________________________________ of hydrogen peroxide
__________ the volume – ____________ lift, ____________ the volume – ___________ lift
__________________ is used with permanent haircolor to ________________________

27. Lighteners
Lighten hair _________________________________ _________________________________
___________________________ with lightener, __________________________
Oxidation occurs within the cortex of the hair
Used to create a light blond shade that is not achievable with permanent haircolor

28. Decolorizing process ______________________________________
The amount of change depends on:
1- _____________________________________
2- _____________________________________
3 – ____________________________________
Allows the colorist to create the exact degree of contributing pigment needed for the final result
Lightening ______________________________________ ______________________________________

29. CAUTION
Lightening dark hair to a very pale blond is ______________________________________
________________________________ usually will _________________________________ and will stretch without returning to its original length
When the hair is dry is feels brittle and harsh
This type of hair often suffers breakage and has difficulty accepting a toner properly

30. Toners
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________

31. Consultation
Is the __________________________ of the haircoloring service
Hold the consultation in an area with proper lighting
If possible the walls should be a neutral color
Allow at least 15 minutes
Have a client fill out a client information card and release statement
Ask leading questions:
are you looking for a temporary or permanent change?
do you want color all over or just a few highlights?
do you see yourself as conservative or dramatic?

32. Consultation Continued
Recommend at least two different color options
Review the procedure, application technique, cost of service, and follow-up maintenance
Be honest, let the client know what you can do today and how many visits it will take to achieve the final results
Fill out the client’s record card with detailed notes
Avoid negative words – bleached, frosted, roots

33. CAUTION _________________________________
In the consultation determine if the client is taking any medication
Usually medications for diabetes, high blood pressure, and thyroid problems will affect the outcome of color and most chemical services

34. Selecting Haircolor
There are four basic questions that must always be asked when formulating a haircolor:
______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________

35. Selecting haircolor
Always remember to _________________________________ _________________________________
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________
The volume of hydrogen peroxide mixed with the haircolor product will also influence the lift and deposit

36. Mixing permanent colors
Method of mixing is determined by the type of application that you are using as well as the consistency of the product
Applicator bottle – should be large enough to hold both color and developer with enough airspace to shake the bottle and blend the mixture thoroughly
Brush and Bowl – use a ___________________ mixing bowl, measure in developer, add color and use applicator brush to stir the mixture until blended

37. Color developer ratio
1:1 means for every one part of developer you use one part color
2:1 means for every two parts of developer your use one part color
2:1 is usually only used for high lift color, and should never be used for gray coverage

38. Patch test _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________ _____________________________________________
Mix a small amount of the color to be used and _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ , leave undisturbed for 24 – 48 hours. If there is no swelling or redness then the test is negative a your can proceed with the haircoloring service

39. CAUTION
____________________ dermatitis or_________________ is the build up of chemicals in the operators system _________________________________ and repeatedly being exposed to chemicals throughout the day

40. Strand Test
Once you have created a formula try it first on a small strand of hair
This test _________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________

41. Hair color application - Temporary
Drape client
Shampoo and towel dry hair
Put on gloves
Use an applicator bottle
Apply color and work around the entire head
Blend color with comb
DO NOT rinse hair
Towel blot and proceed with styling

42. Single process Lightens and deposits color in a single application
Examples are virgin application and retouch application
As the hair grows in you will need to retouch the new growth to avoid a two toned effect
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________

43. Single Process – _____Application
Virgin application is __________________________ the area _____________________________________________ ____________________________________________, usually the temples or hairline
Section the hair into quadrants
Lift a _________ subsection and apply color to the mid- shaft area stay _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________
Go back an apply color to the scalp
Pull the color through the ends of the hair
After checking results, shampoo with warm water
Remove any stains around the hairline
Condition
Towel dry and style

44. Single Process – _____________application
Section hair into quadrants
______________________________________ ______________________________________
Complete all four sides and set timer for manf. Suggested processing time
Prepare a no-lift deposit only glaze formula to be applied mid shaft to ends
______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________
Check results
Shampoo, condition, and style

45. Double process haircolor
_____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________
_____________________________________________ _____________________________________________
Because the lightening action and the deposit of color are independent of each other, _____________________________________________
During the prelightening you can create a perfect foundation for a longer –lasting color that will be true to tone
The prelightener is applied in the same manner as a regular hair lightening treatment, shampooed, and then the demipermanent color is applied from scalp to ends

46. Lighteners 3 forms: _______________________________
________________________ are considered ___________________________________
______________ is considered ______________________________ lightener
Cream and oil are the most popular because they are easy to apply and are mild on the hair
Cream and oil can also be used to professionally lighten dark facial or body hair

47. Cream lighteners features and benefits:
agents give some protection to the hair and scalp
Thickeners give more control during application process
Because cream lighteners do not run or drip overlapping is prevented during retouching services

48. Powder lighteners: _________________ Stronger than cream
Can cause scalp irritation and should not be applied directly to the scalp
______________________________________ _____________________________________
________________________________
Most powder lighteners ______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________

49. Processing time for lightening is affected by the following:
The darker the natural hair color, the more melanin it has , the longer it takes to lighten
Amount of time needed is influenced by porosity
Tone influences time to lighten natural hair, the greater the % of red the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate shades of pale blond
Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the level and the tone of the hair
_____________________________________________ _____________________________________________

50. CAUTION
Powder lighteners are used exclusively for off the scalp applications
This means never directly on the scalp, can be used on the shaft, ends, in foils, in film, baliage, or with a highlighting cap
Heat used with lighteners causes the cuticle to crack and break, therefore extreme caution must be used

51. Lightener retouch Mixture is only applied to new growth
_________________________________ _________________________________
_________________________________

52. Lightening virgin hair application
Divide the hair into four quadrants
Place cotton in all four sections to protect the scalp
Apply lightener ___________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________
Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parting to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair
Complete all four sections in this manner __________________________________
Add more lightener if necessary
Do NOT comb the lightener through the hair
Keep the lightener moist during development
Take a strand test
Once desired level is reached apply the lightener to the scalp
Then apply to the porous ends
Rinse thoroughly with warm water
Shampoo gently – hair is fragile
Condition hair
Tone if necessary

53. Toners
_________________________________ _________________________________
Your speed and accuracy are both important factors in the application and will determine whether you get good color results

54. Special effects haircoloring
_________________________________ ________________________________
_______________ – coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades
_________________________________ – technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color

55. 3 basic methods of highlighting:
Cap
Foil / Film
Baliage or free form technique

56. Cap highlighting
Previously referred to as________________________________ _________________________________
Pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook
Number of strands pulled through will determine the noticeable results

57. Foil technique (Film, Paper)
______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________
Placing foils is an art and takes much practice and discipline
Slicing is taking a 1/8 inch parting by making a straight part at the scalp
Weaving is selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb

58. Baliage Also spelled Balyage
_________________________________ _________________________________
The lightener is applied with an applicator brush or a tail comb from the scalp to the ends around the head
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________

59. Color correction
The use of a toner may be used to cancel out any undesirable yellow contributing pigment
A toner could but not always add a slight amount of lift or “bump” to the natural hair surrounding the prelightened hair – to avoid this use a color that does not require a developer

60. Highlighting shampoo
_________________________________ _________________________________
They cause the natural color to be lifted slightly

61. Gray hair challenges & solutions
Gray hair can turn orange if the lightener used is not processed long enough
_________________________________ from smoking, medication, sun exposure, and some styling products – this can often ______________________________________ ______________________________________
Gray hair accepts the level of color that is applied except when the level is 8 or higher because there is a low concentration of dye found in the higher numbers

62. Gray hair challenges and solutions
Use 20 volume developer
_________________________________
_________________________________ _________________________________
High lift blond is not designed for gray coverage
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________

63. Rules for effective color correction:
Do not panic – remain calm
Determine the nature of the problem
Determine what caused the problem
Develop a solution
Always take one step at a time
Never guarantee an exact result
Always strand test for accuracy

64. Damaged hair
Hair is damaged when it has one ore more of the following characteristics:
1- rough texture
2- overporous condition
3- brittle and dry to the touch
4 – susceptible to breakage
5- becomes spongy and matted when wet
6 – color fades too quickly or grabs too dark

65. Tips for dealing with damaged hair:
Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein, oils and moisture-rich ingredients
Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH with an acidic finishing rinse, this will restore the ability of the cuticle to protect the internal hair
Postpone any further chemical services until the hair is reconditioned
Schedule the client for between-service conditionings
Recommend retail products for use at home to prepare for the next service

66. Fillers _________________________________
_________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________
Two type of fillers: _________________________________ _________________________________
Help hair to accept color evenly

67. Selecting the correct color filler
______________________________________ ______________________________________
To correct an unwanted haircolor, always use the primary or secondary color that is missing in the hair
Example: orange blond hair can be corrected to a natural blond by adding the missing primary color blue, blue cancels orange
A primary color always cancels a secondary color and a secondary color always cancels a primary color

68. Tips for redheads Fading is a common problem with redheads
It is important to recommend the proper at home products for redheads
To create warm coppery reds use a red orange base color
To create hot fiery reds use red-violet or a true red color
Always use a no-lift deposit only color to refresh the shaft and ends
______________________________________ ______________________________________ ______________________________________

69. Tips for Brunettes
To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color always use a cool blue base
To avoid brassy tones do not lighten more than two levels above the natural tone
Add 1oz of a neutral color to cover gray in a brunette
Natural highlights should be deep or caramel color – blond is too much contrast with brunette, it does not look natural and requires frequent touch-ups

70. Tips for blonds Is popular, profitable and find
When _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________
When covering gray hair use a level 7 or darker for best coverage
_____________________________________________ _____________________________________________
If a high light blond that only lifts 5 levels is used on a level 4 and below the result will be warm and brassy
If highlights become too blond or all one color, lowlights or deeper strands needed to be foiled in to create a more natural look

71. Common haircolor solutions
Green cast – _________________________________ ________________________________ up in pipes, attaches itself to blond hair, can be washed away with a clarifying shampoo or mineral remover (it is not chlorine that causes this)
Green cast – in a brunette, color formulation was incorrect and used a green based color. Tone with a gold, copper or neutral to cast out green tone

72. Overall hair color is too light
To correct apply a no-lift deposit only hair color two shades darker than the previous formula

73. Overall color is too dark
Determine how much color needs to be removed
_________________________________
Process for 10 minutes and check
These are specially formulated to remove oxidative tints from the hair
Wash and tone to new desired color

74. Restoring hair to natural hair color
____________________________________
When dealing with a blond – first soften the new growth with a level 6 violet base color with 20 volume for 30 minutes, rinse, apply a no lift glaze with 1 oz of level 8 light natural blond and 1oz of level 9 red-orange, do not apply to scalp but rest of head, process for 20 minutes, rinse, then mix a no lift glaze with 2 oz of level 6 neutral apply for 20 minutes checking every 5, rinse, shampoo, condition, and style

75. Safety precautions ________________________________________________
Do not apply haircolor if abrasions are present
Do not apply haircolor if a metallic hair color is present
Do not brush the hair prior to applying color
_________________________________________________
Use sanitized applicator bottle, brushes, combs, and towels
Protect your client’s clothing
Perform a strand test
Do not mix color until you are ready to use it
Discard all left overs
Wear gloves
Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch
Use a shampoo made for chemically treated hair
Always wash hands before and after each client