2. Chapters 10

3.  A Wave is a disturbance that carries energy through matter or space.  In oceans, waves move through seawater.  Waves are the movement of energy, not matter.

4.  Crest – highest point of a wave  Trough – lowest point of a wave  Wave Height – vertical distance between the crest and the trough  Wavelength – horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs

5. Wavelength Wave Height Crest Trough Still Water Wave Parts

6.  When a wave passes through the ocean, individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.

8.  Long waves are called swells  Short waves are called chop

9.  Disturbing force  Extent of disturbing force  Resting force  wavelength

10.  Disturbing force ◦ Energy that causes waves  Wind, volcanic eruptions, landslides, etc.

11.  Free waves vs. forces waves ◦ Free waves form and propagate without further influence ◦ Forces waves are maintained by a disturbing force

12.  Restoring force ◦ Dominant force that that returns the water surface to flatness

13.  Deep water waves ◦ Waves moving through water deeper than half their wavelength  Shallow water waves ◦ Waves in water shallower than 1/20 their original wavelength  Transitional waves ◦ Waves travel through water deeper than 1/20 their original wavelength but shallower than half their original wavelength

15. Caused by:  Wind  Earthquakes  Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun.

16.  When wind blows across a body of water, friction causes the water to move along with the wind.  Wave Height depends on – ◦ Wind speed ◦ Fetch: Distance over which the wind blows ◦ Duration: Length of time the wind blows

17.  Swell- process of dispersion (wave separation) produces smooth undulation of ocean surface  Wave trains – progressing groups of swell with the same origin

19.  Fully developed sea ◦ Strong wind for over 3 days  Largest waves ◦ 1480 feet, Iceland ◦ 1913, Cape of Good Hope ◦ 2720, equatorial Atlantic

21.  Wave video Wave video

22.  Higher than the theoretical maximum

26.  When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses.  Called a breaker.  In this case, water does move forward and backward.

28.  Abrupt bulge of water driven ashore by tropical cyclone or frontal storm

29.  Storm surge video Storm surge video

30.  Rocking of a shallow water wave  Form of a standing wave that oscillates vertically with no forward movement

32.  Tsunamis were once called Tidal waves, but they have nothing to do with the tides.

33.  They are produced by earthquakes and other disturbances of ocean surface water.  Can also be caused by icebergs falling from glaciers and volcanic eruptions.  They’re also called seismic sea waves.

34.  They can have wavelengths of 150 miles.  They can travel at over 450 miles per hour!  A wave formed off of Alaska can reach Hawaii in only 5 hours.

35.  In the open ocean, a tsunami may only have a wave height of a few feet.  As the wave approaches shallow water, it builds to heights that can reach greater than 100 feet.

36.  The 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami was caused by an earthquake off the coast of Indonesia.  The earthquake was the 2 nd largest EVER recorded at a magnitude of 9.3  It was one of the deadliest natural disasters in recorded history. Indonesia, Sri Lanka, India, and Thailand were hardest hit.  229,866 people were lost, including 186,983 dead and 42,883 missing

38.  Japan was hit by an enormous earthquake on March 11, 2011, that triggered a deadly 23-foot tsunami.  Caused by 8.9 to 9.0 earthquake, which is the largest in Japan’s history.  15,839 deaths, 5,950 injured, and 3,642 people missing, as well as over 125,000 buildings damaged or destroyed.  About 26 hours after the earthquake, an explosion in reactor No. 1 at the Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Station caused one of the buildings to crumble to the ground. The cooling system at the reactor failed shortly after the earthquake.  Residents within a 20 km (12 mi) radius of the Fukushima I Nuclear Power Plant and a 10 km (6.2 mi) radius of the Fukushima II Nuclear Power Plant were evacuated.

43.  http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/news/features/ dec11/japan-tsunami-debris.html http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/news/features/ dec11/japan-tsunami-debris.html

44.  tsunami 101 tsunami 101  Footage 1 Footage 1  Footage 2 Footage 2

45.  Waves of Destruction…..

47.  The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide.  Caused by a giant wave.  One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about 12 hrs and 25 min.  Tidal range is the difference in ocean level between high-tide and low-tide

48.  Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: ◦ one directly under the moon ◦ another on the exact opposite side  As the Earth spins, the bulges follow the moon.

50.  Spring Tides ◦ Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up (full or new moon) ◦ High Tides are higher and Low Tides are lower than normal

52.  Neap Tides ◦ Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles (half moon) ◦ High Tides are lower and Low Tides are higher than normal