1. Facials
Chapter 23 – 12’

2. Good skin Makes a big difference in the way skin looks
Makes a difference in the way a person feels about their appearance

3. Introduction Oily skin Dry skin Aging skin Cleaner Healthier Look
Feel more moist & supple
Aging skin
Look smoother
Firmer
Less wrinkled

4. Serve as an oasis in a busy day
Leaving client feeling refreshed
Boost a person’s self-esteem and confidence
Change the way a person “faces” the world
Valuable service for clients who have skin problems which cause anxiety
“Focus on” page 710

5. Skin Analysis and Consultation
Skin analysis determines
Skin type
Condition of skin
Type of treatment needed
Consultation - Ask client questions
Health
History
Advise on home care products and treatments

6. Contraindication
A condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures or products to prevent undesirable or negative side effects

8. Health screening form page 711 – 712 Focus on page 713
Caution box page 713
Health screening form page 711 – 712
List of information page 715
Focus on page 713
List of contraindications page 714
Caution box page 715
Contraindications Grid/Table 23-1 page 714

9. Treatment Records Observations Contraindications
Secured filing cabinet
Each visit
treatments
observations
purchases

10. Analysis Procedure Carefully read health screening form
Discuss any questions
Client change into smock and remove jewelry – lock in safe place
Cosmetologist/esthetician remove own jewelry
Drape client

11. Recline into chair
Cleanse the face
Cover eyes
Look under magnifying lamp

12. Determining Skin Type Skin type - determined by how oily or dry
Hereditary
Cannot be permanently changed with treatments
Skin conditions – characteristics of the skin associated with a particular skin type

13. Look for presence or absence of visible pores
Amount sebum produced determines size of pores
Hereditary
Obvious pores – oily
Lack of visible pores - dry

14. Skin Types Alipidic – “lack of lipids”
Dry skin
Does not produce enough sebum to prevent evaporation of cell moisture
Dehydration indicates lack of moisture
Flaky or dry looking
Small fine lines and wrinkles
Any skin type
Feel itchy or tight

15. Open comedones (blackheads)
Oily skin
Produces too much sebum
Large pores
Open comedones (blackheads)
Mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell build up
Closed comedones
Small bumps beneath skin surface
Solidified sebum and dead cell buildup
Table 23 – 2 page 716

16. Difference between open & closed comedones
Size of follicle opening
Ostium
Open comedone has large ostium
Closed comedone has small ostium

17. Acne Pimples in oily areas Disorder – follicle becomes clogged
Infection of the follicle with redness and inflammation
Caution box – page 717

18. Acne bacteria anaerobic – cannot survive in the presence of oxygen
Survive from breaking down sebum into fatty acids
Acne papules – red pimples that do not have a pus head
Pustules – pimples with a pus head
Pus – fluid made up of dead white blood cells

20. Analysis of the Skin Conditions are generally treatable Dehydration
Flaky areas
Skin wrinkles easily on the surface
Lack of care
Improper or overdrying skin care products
Sun exposure

21. Treat by Using hydrators Alipidic skin – treatments heavier in texture
Oilier skin – treatments are lighter weight

22. Hyperpigmentation Dark blotches of color
Sun exposure or hormone imbalances
Mild exfoliation
Home care products
Daily use of sunscreen
Avoidance of sun exposure

23. Sensitive skin Thin, red-pink color Turn red easily Easily inflamed
Avoid strong cleansers
Fragranced products
Strong exfoliants

24. Treat with gentle products & treatments
Rosacea – chronic hereditary disorder indicated by constant or frequent blushing
Dilated capillaries present – telangiectasis or couperose
Considered a medical disorder - dermatologist
Treat with gentle products & treatments
Avoid treatments that release heat or stimulate the skin

25. Aging skin Loss of elasticity
Skin tends to sag around eyes and jawline
Treatments hydrate and exfoliate

26. Sun-damaged skin Chronically & frequently exposed over lifetime
Many areas of hyperpigmentation
Wrinkled areas, sagging skin – damage to elastic fibers
Looks older

27. Skin Care Products Cleansing Products 2 types:
To clean the skin surface and remove makeup
2 types:
Milks
Foaming

28. Face wash – detergent type foaming cleanser
Neutral or slightly acidic pH
Foaming action of bar soap
Rinses off completely – leaving skin feeling fresh, but slightly tight

29. Oily – combination oily skin type
Cuts excessive amounts of oil
For acne-prone skin – an antimicrobial agent is used to kill bacteria
Danger of face wash is that it can over dry the skin

30. Cleansing Lotion Formulated to remove makeup and soil
Water-based emulsion

31. Cleansing Milks Non-foaming Dry and sensitive skin
Must be removed with water (sponge, cloth etc,)

32. Foaming Cleansers Contain surfactants (detergents)
Combination and oiler skin types
Used quickly/easily in shower
Some have antibacterial ingredients

33. Toners Astringents Fresheners Rebalance pH
Ingredients to help soothe or hydrate
May contain and exfoliants to remove dead cell buildup
Stronger products
Higher alcohol content
Used for oilier type skin
Alcohol-free –sprayed onto face

34. Exfoliants Removal of dead cells from skin
Skin appears smoother and clearer
Help clear skin of clogged pores
Improve appearance of:
Wrinkles
Aging
Hyperpigmentation

35. Cosmetologists – remove dead cells from Stratum Corneum
Dermatologists/Surgeons – deeper, surgical-level- peels
Caution Box page 719

36. Mechanical exfoliants – products used to physically remove dead cell buildup
Gommages - roll-off masks – peeling creams that are rubbed off
Microdermabrasion scrubs- contain aluminum oxide crystals, with other granular scrubs (mechanical exfoliants)

37. Chemical Exfoliants
Contain chemicals the loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) – gentle naturally occurring acids that remove dead cell by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement between cells

38. As dead cells are removed over time:
Wrinkles appear less deep
Skin discoloration may fade
Clogged pores are loosened and reduced
New clogs are prevented
Skin is smoother
More hydrated

39. AHA Peels
20% – 30% of AHA
Client must use a 10% AHA product at home for at least 2 weeks before salon peel!
AND using daily facial sunscreen products

40. Enzyme Peels Keratolytic enzymes Protein-dissolving agents
Dissolve the keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin
Made from plant-extracted enzymes from papaya or pineapples or beef by-products

41. 2 Types of Enzyme Peels
Cream-type enzyme peels (gommage) – contain papaya
Applied – dried – rolled off skin
Powdered enzyme peel – mixed with water – applied – removed with towels
Does not dry the skin
Used with a steamer

42. Proper Exfoliation may improve skin’s appearance
Reduces clogged pores and skin oiliness
Promotes skin smoothness
Increases moisture content & hydration
Reduces hyperpigmentation
Decreases uneven skin color
Eliminates/softens wrinkles and fine lines
Increases elasticity

43. Proper exfoliation speeds up cell turnover
Allows for deeper penetration of treatment creams & serums
Makeup applies more evenly
Caution boxes page 720

44. Moisturizers
Products that help increase moisture content of skin surface
Help diminish fine lines & wrinkles
Mixtures
Humectants/hydrators
Water-binding agents – ingredients that attract water
Emollients – oily/fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin

45. Moisturizers – oily skin
Lotion form
Less emollients
Moisturizers – dry skin
Heavier cream
More emollients
Sensitive skin – soothing agents
Aging skin – AHA
Sunscreen

46. Cautions boxes – page 721

47. Sunscreens & Day Protection Products
Shielding skin from sun exposure is the most important habit to benefit the skin
Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin cancers and prematurely ages the skin

48. Use daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreen – protects against UVA & UVB
SPF of 15 or higher
SPF measures how long someone can be exposed to the sun without burning

49. Combination skin – lotions
Oily skin – fluids
Dry skin - creams

50. Night treatments More intense Design to treat specific skin problems
Heavier than day use products
Higher levels of conditioning ingredients

51. Serums Concentrated products
Contain higher concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate skin and treat various conditions
Home use
Applied under moisturizer/sunscreen
Ampules – individual doses sealed in a vial

52. Massage Creams Lubricants to make the skin slippery during massage
Contain oils or petrolatum
Thoroughly remove during a facial – prevents other products from penetrating
Biggest benefit of massage is that it increases product absorption – increases conditioning effect of treatment products

53. Masks Masques Concentrated treatment products
Composed of minerals clays
Moisturizing agents
Skin softeners
Aromatherapy oils
Botanical extracts

54. Other ingredients to cleanse
Exfoliate
Tighten
Tone
Hydrate
Nourish

55. Clay-based masks Oil-absorbing cleansing masks
Have an exfoliating & astringent effects
Oily & combination skin
Makes large pores temporarily appear smaller
soothing
Antibacterial ingredients

56. Cream masks Contain oils, emollients & humectants
Strong moisturizing effect
Dry skin

57. Gel masks Sensitive or dehydrated skin Do not dry hard
Contain hydrators & soothing agents
Help plump surface cells
Makes the skin look more supple & hydrated

58. Alginate masks Seaweed based Powder form mixed with water or serums
Dry to a rubberized texture
Treatment Cream – facilitates change in skin’s appearance
Or serum applied under mask
Mask forms a seal that helps skin’s absorption of serum or treatment cream
Used only in salons

59. Paraffin Wax Masks Melted at little more than body temperature
Cools to a candle-like texture
Applied over treatment cream & gauze
Eye pads may be applied to prevent wax from getting on eyebrows & lashes

60. Modelage masks Special crystals of gypsum – a plaster-like ingredient
Used with a treatment cream and gauze
Mixed with cold water
Apply ¼’ thick layer
hardens

61. Chemical reaction occurs
Gradual increase to temperature of 105º
Gradually cools down
Setting time about 20 minutes
Follow mfg. directions

62. Heat increases blood circulation
Beneficial for dry, mature skin – looks dull & lifeless
Do not use on sensitive, capillary problems, oily skin, blemishes
Can be heavy on face
Do not apply on lower neck
Never use on clients with claustrophobia

63. Use of Gauze Thin open-meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton
Holds ingredients onto face & keep from sticking to hairs on face

64. Client Consultation Designate a quiet area
Write down all necessary information
Bulleted list pages
Record
Date
Type of service and/or treatment performed
Products used
Purchased products

65. Recommend services and products to benefit client
Client will be disappointed in no recommendations given
They will go elsewhere
Best results achieved if home care regime is followed
Perform a thorough analysis of client’s skin

66. Facial Massage Massage- FYI Box page 577 Focus on – page 726
Manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain.
FYI Box page 577
Focus on – page 726

67. Wrists and fingers flexible Palms firm and warm
Massage requires:
Basic knowledge of anatomy and physiology
Firm sure touch
Flexible hands
Quiet temperament
Self-control
Keep hands soft
File and shape nails
Wrists and fingers flexible
Palms firm and warm

68. Basic Massage Manipulations
Each manipulation applied in a certain way to achieve a certain end (result)
Impact of treatment:
Amount of pressure
Direction of movement
Duration of manipulation
Focus 0n & FYI – page 726

69. Massaging incorrectly
Direction of movement
Insertion to the origin
Insertion
Portion of the muscle at the more moveable attachment
Origin
Portion of the muscle at the fixed attachment
Massaging incorrectly
Loss of resiliency
Sagging of skin and muscles

70. Effleurage Light continuous stroking movement
Fingers – digital – small surfaces
Palms – palmar – large surfaces
Slow rhythmic
No pressure
Every massage begin and end
Soothing and relaxing effects

71. Used on:
Forehead
face
Scalp
Back
Shoulder
Neck
Chest
Arms
Hands

72. Hold hand loosely
Keep wrists and fingers flexible
Curve fingers slightly
Cushions of fingers touching skin

73. Petrissage Kneading movement Lifting, squeezing and pressing tissue
Light, firm pressure
Deeper stimulation to muscles, nerves and glands
Improves circulation

74. Limited to back, shoulders, and arms
Used on cheeks/jawline with light pinching movements
Pressure light but firm
Movements must by rhythmic – never jerky

75. Fulling
Tissue grasped firmly
Lifted
Spread out

76. Friction Deep rubbing movement
Apply pressure with fingers/palm while moving over an underlying structure
Significant benefit
circulation
Glandular activity
Scalp, arms, hands – heavier movements
Face and neck – lighter circular movements

77. Chucking Rolling Wringing Grasping flesh firmly in one hand
Move hand up and down along bone
Rolling
Pressing and twisting tissues in a fast back and forth movement
Wringing
Hands placed on both sides of arm/leg
Working downward
Twisting motion against bones in the opposite direction

78. Tapotement/Percussion
Short quick tapping, slapping and hacking movements
Most stimulating
Applied with care and discretion
Tone muscles
Impart a healthy glow to area being massaged

79. Facial Slapping Light digital tapping
Fingers must be flexible to create an even force over treated area
Slapping
Wrists flexible
Light, firm, rapid slapping
One hand follows the other
Lift flesh slightly

80. Hacking and slapping used on:
Chopping movements
Edges of hands
Move alternately in fast, light, firm movements
Hacking and slapping used on:
Back, shoulders, arms, legs

81. Vibration Rapid shaking of the body part
Balls of fingers pressed firmly on point of application
Rapid muscular contraction
Highly relaxing
Applied over nerves and end of massage
Stimulate blood circulation
Increase muscle tone

82. Physiological Effects of Massage
Thorough knowledge of structures involved
Muscles
Nerves
Connective tissue
Blood vessels
FYI - page 728

83. Every muscle has a motor point
Point on the skin over the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of the muscle
Location of motor points varies from person to person
Differences in body structure

86. Relaxation is achieved
Light, firm, slow rhythmic movements or
Very slow, light hand vibrations over motor points for a short time or
Pause briefly over motor points

87. Massage applied directly or indirectly influences the structures and functions of the body
Immediate effects are first noticed on the skin

88. Area being treated shows increased:
Circulation
Secretion
Nutrition
Excretion
Benefits
List page 729

89. Frequency of massage depends:
Condition of skin or scalp
Age of the client
Condition being treated
General rule
Weekly massage
Accompanied by proper home care

90. Facial Manipulations Even tempo/rhythm - relaxation
Do not remove hands from area being treated
Feather off
Feather back on
State Regulatory Alert - page 732

91. Facial Treatments Enjoyable and relaxing service
Restful, stimulating experience
Regular facials
Noticeable improvement in skin tone
Texture
Appearance

92. Preservative Corrective Maintains health of skin
Correct skin conditions

93. Treatments: Increase circulation Activate glandular activity
Relax nerves
Maintain muscle tone
Strengthen weak muscle tissues

94. Guidelines for facial treatments
Page 737
Inspect skin - Page 738
Analysis determines:
What products to use
Areas needing special attention
How much pressure to use
What equipment to use

95. Special Problems Dry Skin Oily Skin
Insufficient flow of sebum
Infra-red ray lights – (3 - 5 minutes)
Milia - whiteheads
Oily Skin
Comedones – blackheads - hardened masses of sebum formed in ducts of sebaceous glands

96. Special notes for acne-prone skin
Disorder of the sebaceous glands
Medical treatment
Work with doctor/dermatologist
Wear gloves – contains infectious matter

97. Acne medical care
Follow physician’s instructions for type and frequency of facials
Help with extraction treatments
Assist in choosing proper home care products and make-up
Help client understand how to coordinate with home skin care program

98. Environmental factors Aggravated by:
Hereditary
Environmental factors
Aggravated by:
Emotional stress
Faulty diet

99. Diet for Acne Foods high in: - tend to worsen condition Recommended:
Fat
Starches
sugars
Recommended:
Well balanced diet
Drinking plenty of water
Healthful personal hygiene

100. Special Notes for Acne-Prone Skin
Unresponsive or severe cases – medical attention
Work with dermatologist
Proper home care products and makeup
Coordinate medications home care program
Topical medications - sensitive skin more reactive

101. Consultation and Home Care
Most important factor in successful skin care program
Explain proper home care after first treatment
Focus –On pp. 739

102. Procedures Basic facial – 741 - 745 Dry Skin – 746 – 747
Caution box page 594
Dry Skin – 746 – 747
Service tip – pp. 747

103. Acne prone skin – pages 751 - 752
Oily skin
Pages
Caution Box & Service Tips - 750
Acne prone skin – pages

104. Aromatherapy
Therapeutic use of plant aromas for beauty and health treatment
Improves efficacy of many skin care preparations

105. Benefits a person’s
physical
Emotional
Mental
Spiritual well-being

106. Cinnamon candle in winter – warm cozy
Use oils lightly – tend to be overpowering
Caution box page 740