1. General Shop Safety Rules
Personal Safety
All students using the shop must work together to prevent accidents. The habits of care and caution developed through safe working practices will help protect you and others from accidents.
Obey rules and regulations
Dress right to work in the shop
Know what you are doing
Pay attention to what you are doing
When something is wrong tell the teacher
Respect the safety of others
Protect yourself from injury
Always keep your tools sharp and in good condition
Eye Protection

2. Chisels BEVEL Edged chisels are slightly undercut.
Easy to push into corners.
They are normally used for finishing dovetail joints.
FIRMER
Have a blade with a rectangular cross- section.
They are stronger and can be used for tougher/heavier work.
PARING
A longer, thinner chisel which can be pushed into long joints such as housing joints.
It is used for cleaning up the joint and to make it an accurate fit.

3. Never hold wood in your hands
Chisel Safe
Always clamp wood down
Never hold wood in your hands
Use as many clamps as needed to prevent wood from moving
Work with the grain when ever possible
Keep both hands behind the chisel
Use a rubber mallet only on chisels with metal tabs
Keep your tool sharp

4. Hand saws
Crosscut Saw
The crosscut saw has teeth that is specially designed to cut horizontally through wood. All western saws cut on the push stroke
Saw length: 21 to 27 inches
Teeth size: 8 to 12 per inch
The teeth of the crosscut saw cuts wood at a right angle toward the direction of the wood grain.
Rip Cut Saw
Used for cutting with the grain of the wood. The blades are pitched between 85 to 90 degrees. This type of saw is specially designed to make what is called a "rip cut."
Saw length: 23 to 27 inches
Teeth size: 5 ½ to 7 per inch

5. Back Saw
Saws that have smaller teeth; Length are shorter the typical saws. Have a metal backing rib to stabilize the blade.
Saw length: 7 to 15 inches
Teeth size: Varies per inch
Dovetail saw, tenon saw and the miter saw.
Coping Saw
Used to cut curves blade very thin. Break under tension
Saw length: 21 to 27 inches
Teeth size: 8 to 12 per inch
Specialty Saws
Japanese saw – cut on the pull stroke
Frame saws; (keyhole saw or compass saws); hack saw

6. SAWS SAFTEY
Handsaws
Select the right kind of saw for the job.
Clear the work area before you start to saw. Make sure that the material will not slip or fall.
The saw may jump out of the cut if you push too hard. When you start the cut, guide the saw blade with your hand. Begin by pulling the saw toward you. Move your hand away after the cut is started.
When you lay a saw down, put it where no one can brush against the teeth.
After you have finished with a saw, put it back where it belongs.
Keep your eyes on the saw teeth and the work. When you are nearing the end of a cut, ease up on the pressure stroke.
When completing a cut with a saw, ease up at the end.
Hacksaws
Select the right kind of hacksaw blade for the stock you want to cut.
Look at the frame and make sure that the blade is installed properly.
Hacksaw blades are made of hard steel. They will shatter if under high tension.

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8. Different types of Hammers
Claw Hammer The most popular hammer for general work, available with a wooden, fiberglass or steel handle. The most popular weights are (16 to 24oz).
Ball Pein Normally used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers are available from(4 oz up to 2 lb.)- (8oz 12oz) are the most suitable for general use. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash or Hickory.
Wooden Mallet Used to drive chisels or to tap wood joints together. Both the handle and head are wood, usually Beech.
Soft-faced Hammers Various types are available, with hard and soft rubber, plastic or copper faces.

9. Hammer rules
Select the right kind and size of hammer for the job.
Machined and tempered (hardened) tools should not be hit together.
Some operations require soft-faced mallets.
Always inspect the head. Make sure the hammer is safe.
To use; the head and handle of the hammer must not be damaged.
Make sure that the handle has no cracks or splinters. The head and
handle must be tight.
Make sure your hands and the hammer handle are dry.
Hammers are made of hardened metal. Do not hit one hammer with
another.
When you use a hammer, be sure you hold it near the end of the
handle.

10. Do not try this at home
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11. WOOD BLOCK PLANE: This type is old but is still used, due to the fact that they are lighter than steel planes and more comfortably for longer periods.
JACK PLANE: This is the steel equivalent of the wooden block plane. Common in shop classes and garage.
SMALL BLOCK PLANE: Used for light work such as producing 'chamfers'. Used for end grain.
SMOOTHING PLANE: A shorter version of the steel jack plane. It is used for general work such as smoothing short pieces of wood. It is lighter and smaller than the jack plane

12. Planes, Scrapers, and Burnishers Guidelines
Be certain your work is securely clamped when using planes, scrapers, and burnishers.
Inspect wood for exposed splinters before using the scrapers.
Plane irons are very sharp do not run fingers along edges.
Keep your knuckles away from sharp edges of the wood.
Use the appropriate plane for the work at hand.
Use Bench planes for stock removal, smoothing rough surfaces,
and fine finishing.
Use Jack Planes or longer planes for longer length planning (i.e. doors)
to produce a straight line.
Use block plane for end grain.
Always keep the blade sharp.
Lightly oil the working surfaces after use.
Rest the plane on its side when not in use.
Store the plane with its cutter retracted to avoid
premature edge wear.

13. Hand drills and bits
All work must be carefully secured on the drill press so that personal injury and
damage are avoided. Use a drill vise, C-clamp, or V-block whenever possible.
When drilling thin metal, back up the material with a block of wood and clamp
it securely.
ALWAYS BE AWARE of where your fingers are in relation to the drill bit
Bits get hot do not touch them after drilling
DO NOT USE bits that are dull, bent or damaged
DO NOT ATTEMPT to drill material that does not have a flat surface, unless a
suitable support is used
DO NOT USE locking button unless the drill is mounted in a drill press stand or
otherwise held stationary.
ALWAYS unplug the drill when attaching or changing bits or accessories
cordless drill
hand drill
Brace drill
power drill

14. Screwdrivers
 Select the right kind and size of screwdriver for the job.
 Make sure the blade is in good condition. Never grind or reshape the tip without permission from your teacher.
 Do not use a screwdriver in place of a chisel. Do not use a screwdriver for checking electrical circuits.
 If you are working around electrical equipment, use a screwdriver with a rubber or plastic (insulted) handle.
 Never use pliers on a screwdriver for added torque.
 Clamp small work to the bench or in a vise when driving screws. Never hold the work in your hand.
Wrenches
 Select a wrench big enough for the job. Never put a piece of pipe over the end of the wrench to get more leverage. If a wrench is too small, use a larger one.
 When you use an adjustable wrench, pull toward the movable jaw. This will keep the pressure against the solid jaw.
 Before you use a wrench, make sure the jaws fit tightly around the flats of the nut or bolt.
 Never leave a wrench attached to machinery that is on operation.
Files
 Select the right kind of file for the job.
 Never use a file without a handle. Make sure the handle is secure. Be careful of the tang.
 Keep the files clean. A clean file will resist slipping on the work.
 Files are made of hard metal, but they are also brittle. They might break if you use them in the wrong way. Do not bang them against anything or pry with them.

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