vermicomposting: Master Training for city Volunteers

Name: vermicomposting: Master Training for city Volunteers
Uploaded: 2017-07-05T23:40:25+00:00
Duration: PTM28S15
Channel: Abel Perry
Description: vermicomposting: Master Training for city Volunteers

vermicomposting: Master Training for city Volunteers
by Sally L. Benjamin Volunteer Master Composter Tumbleweed Books, LLC

Vermicomposting: Master Training
What are Vermiculture & Vermicomposting? These terms are often used interchangeably Vermiculture literally means “worm growing” Vermicomposting means “composting with worms”

How does Vermicomposting Work? By giving worms what they need: Space = a worm bin Moist bedding = dampened paper strips or dead leaves Food = food scraps, paper and other organic wastes Worms make nutrient-rich, natural fertilizer and soil conditioner, called vermicompost Also called Worm Compost, Vermicast, Worm Castings, Worm Humus or Worm Manure (Really, vermicompost is mostly worm poop!) Worms also make … more worms!

Why does the City of Columbia Promote Vermicomposting? The City promotes all composting because it reduces the waste in landfills Food wastes, paper and other organic wastes go into compost, rather than the City landfill This reduces for handling and transporting costs It saves landfill space, preserving valuable land for other uses It also helps protect the environment Vermicomposting is a great compost method that anyone can do

Why does the City of Columbia Promote Vermicomposting? SOURCE: Turning food waste into energy: University of Missouri research furthers effort to get more from leftovers, University of Missouri Extension, May 10, Photo Credit: Roger Meissen/MU Cooperative Media Group

Why Vermicompost? To turn wastes into useful fertilizer for feeding indoor plants, gardens, etc. It is easy & efficient: It takes far less space to compost It can happen in apartments, school rooms or homes It is a year round option for organic waste recycling Other composting methods need warm weather and space Vermicomposting can happen all year round indoors Vermicomposting is educational (and FUN!)

Vermicomposting systems have 3 Basic Parts: #1 The Worms #2 The Organic Matter Bedding Food #3 The Storage Area Location Bin

Part #1 – The Worms Red Wigglers (Eisenia fetida) Feed in the upper organic and litter layers of soil (termed epigeic by scientists) They are the most common type of composting worm Night crawlers (Lumbricus rubellus) Feed by pulling organic material and litter from upper layers into their burrows deep in the soil (termed anecic) Both worm types are important for enriching soil

Part #1 – The Worms Red Wigglers (Eisenia fetida) Best worms for composting Happy in high population densities in worm bins Eat up to half of their weight in organic matter per day Adapted to survive temperature fluctuations Invasive in forested areas Native to North America, but not to all regions Don’t release them in the forested Northeast Share extra worms rather than free or kill them

Part #1 – The Worms: Where to get Red Wigglers? Buy online Prices should be around $20 per pound Shipments may be delayed due to temperature Buy at bait shops Easily available More expensive (they sell by the worm not the pound) From other composters or at worm exchanges Red wigglers numbers double in 90 days once established So, vermicomposters will have excess worms to share

Part #2 – The Bedding Bedding must hold moisture, but retain air spaces that worms need Bedding materials can include: Newspaper strips Paper strips (not glossy) Dead leaves from deciduous trees (not pine needles or fresh leaves)

Part #2 – The Food Food to Use: Cloth and paper A variety of raw vegetables, plant trimmings and fruit scraps Egg shells, tea bags, coffee grounds, etc.

Part #2 – The Food Avoid: Meat, dairy, and oily foods that may go rancid Too much citrus (orange, lemon and lime peels) that can make the environment acidic Smelly veggies like onions and broccoli Cooked foods are usually too oily Too much salt is bad for worms

Part #2 – The Food NO

Part #3 – The Storage Area (Location) Must be secure – safe from toddlers, pets and pests Must be worm friendly - Worms need moisture, air, food, darkness, and warm (not hot) temperatures Good air circulation (but not cold or drafty) Dark Fairly stable temperatures from 55 to 77 degrees F. Should be convenient – a place where the bin is easy to use (near the kitchen sink or in the laundry room)

Part #3 – The Worm Bin Should be shallow rather than deep A good size is a 5- to 10- gallon bin Approximately 24"X18"X8" Compost worms like to live in the top 6" of soil. Rinse out the container before using Make holes in the lid, sides and bottom for air circulation Cover the bin with a loose fitting lid that provides darkness but also allows air into the bin

Part #3 – The Worm Bin: Buy or Build? Buying a Commercial Worm Bin Sold online and at garden stores Use sets of trays or cans (next slide) Easy to use and work well Can be expensive (more than $100) Worms are established in one bin and, when this bin is full, an empty bin is stacked on it

Part #3 – The Worm Bin: Buy or Build? Save money & make a worm bin A plastic worm bin is easy to make Nest two tubs: Drill holes in the lid, sides and bottom of one tub Place it inside a second tub This allows drainage and air circulation

Setting up the Worm Bin Bedding It should be non toxic, fluffy material It should hold moisture and allow air to circulate Use shredded paper (not glossy or magazines), composted animal manure (not dog or cat), shredded decaying leaves, burlap, or peat moss in any combination Crushed eggshells provide both roughage and calcium for the worms, and reduce acidity in the bin

Setting up the Worm Bin The amount of bedding depends on the size of box The bedding should fill 2/3 of the bin A 2’X2’ box needs between 4 to 6 lbs of dry bedding A 2’X3’ bin needs 9 to 14 lbs of dry bedding Wet the bedding Put it in a bucket of water Squeeze handfuls of bedding until no more water tickles out Add two handfuls of soil to supply roughage for the worms

Setting up the Worm Bin Bedding layers in a worm bin From top to bottom burlap/feed bag, dry straw, cornmeal, compost, dry grass and shredded newspaper

Setting up the Worm Bin Cover bedding with moistened cardboard Provides darkness Holds moisture Prevents fruit flies

Adding the Worms Weigh the worms! The number of worms in a worm bin determines the proper rate and amount food Worms eat up to half their weight daily 1 pound (lb.) (or 1000) of worms uses ½ lb. of food/day This equals 3 to 4 lbs./week A person generates about 1 lb. of food waste a week A family of 4 can support 1 lb. of worms A single person can support ¼ lb. of worms (250 worms)

Adding the Worms Place the worms on top of the bedding Worms will burrow into the bedding Shining a light source on the bedding will help identify any dead or dying worms Unhealthy and dying worms will not burrow as quickly (or at all) These should be removed from the bin

Adding the Food Break food scraps and any egg shells into small bits The smaller the pieces the faster the worms can eat them Fast eating leaves less time for problems Try to add equal amounts of “greens” and “browns” Green foods: Vegetable and fruit scraps, bread, pasta, coffee grounds and filters, teabags, dead plant matter from houseplants Brown foods: Paper, junk mail, paper egg cartons, cardboard, dry leaves

Harvest Vermicompost After 3-5 months the bin is full of compost (and very little bedding) It is time to separate the worms and harvest their compost Failure to do so is unhealthy for the worms For 2 weeks, add no new food to the bin Push all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin Remove any large pieces of undecomposed food or newspaper Worm food not fed during this period can be frozen for use later (but thaw it to room temperature before feeding)

Harvest Vermicompost Replenish the bedding and provide food only in the freshly bedded half Encourage worm migration by covering only the new side of the bin Allow the old side to dry out Over the next 2-3 weeks, the worms will move over to the side seeking food and moisture This leaves worm-free compost behind Remove the compost and replace it with fresh bedding

Benefits of Vermicomposting – Soil Amendments Worm compost contains worm castings and humus It can be used outside or inside the home Work it into soil outside before planting Add it to potting soil for houseplants It can also be used as a top or side dressing to feed plants periodically throughout the season Compared to topsoil, worm castings have: 5 times the available Nitrogen 7 times the available Potash 0.5 times the available Calcium

Benefits of Vermicomposting – Compost Tea Worm castings are great for making compost tea Worms digest using bacteria These beneficial microorganisms make up an ‘inoculant’ for compost tea Worm castings also contain humic acid, a good food source for compost tea Learn more about compost tea by checking out online resources Handouts include a recipe for compost tea

Problems to Avoid Fruit Flies – these flies are not dangerous but are a nuisance indoors Odor Problem – the worm bin should have an earthly but not unpleasant odor Worm Death & Escape – keep an eye on the worm bin to ensure healthy, happy composters

Fruit Fly Control Bury food Avoid rotting food in worm bin Fruit fly larvae are often present on rotten food Don’t overfeed - Food that sits too long in the bin attracts flies Cut food scraps into small pieces Worms eat small pieces more quickly This limits the chance fruit flies will hatch and emerge

Fruit Fly Control Keep bedding moist, but not too wet Too much moisture encourages fruit flies Stinky anaerobic bacteria grow if it is too wet Feed worms a varied diet Loosely cover the top of the worm bin contents with plastic to keep fruit flies in (out) Limit citrus fruits

Fruit Fly Cures Remove rotten food from the bin Fruit flies often lay eggs on rotting food Create a fruit fly trap Put a bowl of apple cider vinegar with a drop of dish detergent near the bin to attract and kill flies Change liquid regularly to keep it potent Tape or staple flypaper strips on the inside of the bin lid, and/or hang a strip near the bin

Fruit Fly Cures Sprinkle lime in the bin to neutralize acidity Cover bin contents Use a sheet of newspaper Change sheet regularly Flies will cluster on the newspaper

Fruit Fly Cures Take bin outside leave uncovered for up to 4 hours to air out the bin out of direct sunlight If uncontrolled, harvest the worms and start a new bin from scratch, using what you have learned from your past experience to create a better bin

Odor Cures Either the bin is too wet Add more dry bedding Stop adding any water or ‘wet’ foods (such as melons) Or the bin does not get enough air Anaerobic bacteria (which thrive without air) create odor Aerate the bin by adding fresh bedding mixing bin contents daily

Odor Cures Some foods are naturally smelly Simply remove any food that smells bad Onions and broccoli create unpleasant ‘sulfur’ smells when they decompose Avoid these foods in bin Noncompostables become rancid Don’t feed meat, bones, dairy and oily products to worms These grow rancid when decomposing If worms don’t eat them quickly enough they create odors

Worm Death & Escape Cures If population drops, or worms try to escape, the bin is: Too wet (worms may be drowning) Too dry (worms may be dehydrating) Gets too little air (worms may be suffocating) Do worms get enough food? After worms devour all of the food and bedding, they eat their own castings This poisons them Hungry worms will also try to escape, seeking food Is the bin exposed to extreme temperatures?

Worm Death & Escape Dead worms decompose rather quickly. Monitor carefully to prevent worm death If worms die or try to escape, check: Do worms get enough food? After worms eat all food and bedding, they eat their own castings which poisons them Before this happens it is TIME TO HARVEST The bin is exposed to extreme temperatures Temperatures from 55 to 77 degrees F are ideal

Worm Predators Centipedes Centipedes feed on worm eggs and young worms They don’t present a serious threat Red Mites Red Mites attack and kill worms by sucking them dry Mites indicate the pH of the bin may be too acidic Ants Eliminate by increasing the moisture content of the bin Deny access by creating a “worm bin island” set the bin in a water-filled container ants don’t swim

Harmless Worm Neighbors Springtails & Pill bugs Brown or white mites Put a melon rind in the bin Mites move onto it in large numbers Rinse off the mites (and repeat) Potworms – compete for food They flock to a slice milk soaked bread Lift the bread and worms out of the bin

Common Soil Critters

Vermicomposting PDFs

Sources History of Composting and Vermiculture Indoor Composting with Worms Troubleshooting Worm Bins Worm Composting Basics What to Feed Worms in A Worm Bin Cheap and Easy Worm Bin! NC State Vermicomposting Victory Seeds Red Worm Composting Worm Exchanges How Vermicomposting Works Vermicomposting How to Make Aerated Compost Tea Field Manual for Describing Terrestrial Ecosystems

Photo Credits City of Columbia, Missouri, Public Works Department. mulch.php Turning food waste into energy: University of Missouri research furthers effort to get more from leftovers, University of Missouri Extension, May 10, Photo Credit: Roger Meissen/MU Cooperative Media Group. City looks to expand composting program: Three producers contribute so far. Photo credit: Ryan Henriksen b3-5903ceb908b1.html Indoor Composting: Making a Worm Bin. February 20, 2012, MyLittleVeggieGarden Winter Composting Tips – Outdoors & Inside, Claire Vannette, December 21, Luther brings vermicomposting to residence halls, January 22, It’s Easy Being Green: The Art of Vermicomposting, Center for American Progress, January 19, vermicomposting/

Photo Credits Vermicomposting, Ministry of Agriculture, Barbados. the-badmc-extension-department&catid=137:-barbados-agricultural-development-and-marketing-corporation- badmc&Itemid=99 Composting Basics For Beginners, By Shirley Bovshow, Great Lakes Worm Watch: Forest Ecology and Worms. Composting with Redworms, Composting, Campus Sustainability Initiative, Brandeis University. Worm Factory 360 WF360B Worm Composter, by Worm Factory. living/detailpages/wormfactory/wormfact-360-whatsincluded-lg.jpg Composting IV: Harvesting your compost, Wish upon a Chef. harvesting-your-compost.html Major Kinds of Soil Fauna. Organic Horizons and Layer, In Field Manual for Describing Terrestrial Ecosystems, British Columbia Ministry of Lands and Parks, Ministry of Forests,

Resources Life of An Apartment Garden – Create Your Own Eden – Composting in Schools – Earthworm Composting – NRS/USDA Tidbits for teachers and students - Vermicomposting - Vermicomposting & Earthworm Q&A Vermicomposting Curricula - Vermicomposting Leader's Guide: A 5th Grade School Enrichment Curriculum - Worm Away Your Cafeteria Food Scraps! - scraps.pdf Worm Bin Troubleshooting - Worms Can Recycle Your Garbage - revised-2012.pdf How to Make Aerated Compost Tea - zebz1307zsie.aspx?PageId=1#axzz37HgNQt8H

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