1. Lecture 13
Single Knit Machines (plain)

2. Main Products Single Jersey Pique Locast Honey comb Pique fleece
Two thread fleece
Feed stripes

3. Single Knit Machine Working
Single bed of needle
Only cylinders
Needles and sinkers
High speed
Wider width
Most common
Easy to handle

4. Double Knit Machines Cylinder and Dial Two bed of needles No sinker
Double side knitting

5. Sub types
Interlock
Rib
Double jersey (interchangeable)

6. Interlock Highly flexible fabric Can adopt any body shape
Used for under garments
Soft hand feel

7. Lecture 13 Knitting Accessories
Compressed air
Lubricants
Air conditioned
Yarn storage
Fabric Storage

8. Compressed Air
For
Cleaning
Oiling
Fluff removing

9. Parameters of Compressed Air
Cool
Dry
Required pressure
Required quantity

10. Sources
Compressors
Piston based
Screw Base

11. Cooling Process Refrigerator technology Cooling towers
Best is refrigerator technology

12. Lubricants
Main purpose is lubrication to reduce friction between parts of machines, particular between needles and cams

13. Parameters of Lubricants
High lubrication
Easy wash during wet processing
No smell
No stain
Normally called white oil
Supplied by all big companies
Some chemical manufacturers add some auxiliaries in it

14. Air Conditioning of the hall
Main objectives:
Low temperature to keep machines cool
Control of fluff
Healthy environment
Strength consistency of yarn
Smooth running of machines
Less wear and tear of machine
High speed of machines
Less breakage of needle and sinkers

15. Storage To avoid mixing Better look after
Less wastage in transportation
Easy to locate
Controlled inventory

16. Lect 14 Knitting Calculations

17. Lecture 15 Fleece Fabric A fabric made by sheep wool, soft warm
A fabric soft , warm bulky
Generally used to:
Protection from cold
Sweat absorption (sweat shirt)
Baby clothes

18. Fleece ---
A fabric knitted with two types of yarn. Fine yarn is on front side and course yarn on back side. In most of cases fine yarn is 100% cotton while course yarn is P/C 50:50
Normal combination and fiber ratio:
30/16, 20/10, 26/12 etc
PC/C, C/PC

19. Types of Fleece
Two thread fleece
Three Thread Fleece

20. Two thread Fleece Very rare
Was popular when three thread fleece were not common
Generally not liked due to impassion of course yarn on front side
Low quality product

21. Conti--- Made on single jersey machines
Maximum medium weight, since very course yarn difficult to use
Long loop is difficult

22. Cam Arrangement
On Fleece fabric.docthree needle track machine:

23. CHARACTERISTICS OF TWO THEAD FLEECE
Light to medium weight
Double impact on front side, particularly in case of different fibers
No good brushing possible due to short length of loop

24. Three Thread Fleece Made on fleece machines
High grammage is possible( 500 GSM)
High brushing due to long loop on back side
Maximum course yarn is possible ( up to 10 count) on back side
Very common in use
Fleece machine guage is 16 or 18

25. Yarn
C/PC
PC/C
30/16, 22/12/ 20/10

26. Cam Arrangement

27. Fiber Percentage Calculation Method Example: Front yarn 30s
100% cotton
Back yarn 16 s 50:50 P/C
Consumption ratio
Front Two kgs
Back one kg

28. Conti--- Total consumption three kgs Calculation:
front yarn 2 kgs 100 % cotton
Back yarn 1 kg ( ½ Kg polyester and ½ kg cotton
Total Cotton consumed =2.5 Kgs
Total polyester consumed ½ kg
Ratio: cotton= 2.5/3*100= 83.33%
Polyester= 0.53*100=16.66%
Such ratio is normally called 80:20 Fleece

29. Main characteristics of Three Thread Fleece
Highly absorbent
High weight is possible
Can use entirely different yarn on both sides( even dyed yarn)
Pattern is possible ( diagonal stripes etc)
Very common in use

30. Fleece problems and their remedies
Uneven loop – control yarn supply
Loop stretch– control cam tension
Needle line on front side
Wales thickness variation on front side due to fluff contamination between the needles, needs regular cleaning, more cleaning is required due to course yarn

31. C-- Poor brushing–due to high TPI yarn– use low TPI
Dyeing variation due to different percentage of yarn… calculate exact % by using Skelton test
Steak problem after dyeing due to heavy weight fabric--- use anti creasing agents in dyeing

32. C---
High shrinkage --- use compactor or tumble dryers

33. Other types of fleece
Sherpa fleece --- brushed and washed to get balls
Polar fleece ---- loops on both sides also brushed on both side

34. Loop knits
Terry fabric to knitted terry towel

35. Good luck, May Almighty bless you

36. Knitting Costing Objectives of the session:
To make participants familiar with the basic terms of costing
To create an understanding about the costing methods
To develop a skill to do costing in a
Knitting department

37. Basic Cost Terms and Concepts
Different Costs for Different Purposes
Fixed and Variable cost
Cost Drivers
Direct and Indirect Cost
Controlled and Uncontrolled cost
Direct material
Direct Labour

38. Continue… Manufacturing Overhead Indirect material Indirect labour
Other Manufacturing Cost
Service department
Overtime Premium
Idle Time
Conversion Cost

39. Cost Flow in a Manufacturing Company
Direct Material
Direct Labour
Manufacturing Overhead

40. Economic Characteristics of Cost
Opportunity Cost
Out of Pocket Cost
Sunk Cost
Differential Cost
Incremental Cost
Margin Cost
Average Cost

41. Cost and Benefit Information

42. Job Oriented Cost System
Product Costing

43. Types of Product Costing
Job-Order Costing System
Process Costing System

44. Activity Based Costing (ABC)
Stage One Overhead Costs are assigned to activities
Overhead Cost are assigned to production job

45. Knitting Cost
Process Cost
Job-Order Cost

46. Process Cost
Material
Labour

47. Material
Direct
Yarn
Lubricants
Machine Accessories
Needles
Energy

48. Continue…
Indirect
Engineering Department
Other Service department

49. Labour
Direct labour
Worker
Technical people
Managers Accounts

50. Indirect labour
Marketing people
Accounts People
Finance People
Others

51. Overhead
Administration
Financial Cost
Marketing Cost

52. Knitting Department
Costing is based on Process and as well as on Job Order
Process Based Costing
Knitting is main process

53. Continue… Material Main Cost is of yarn Yarn Consumption Yarn wastages
Yarn Running Properties
Yarn Package sizes

54. Continue… Other material Machine Accessories
Needle s--- Breakage depends upon yarn quality
Lubrication depends upon yarn quality

55. Labour Different Production for Different yarn and fabric qualities
Different production for different customers
Different Production in different seasons
Requirement of number of workers is different

56. One Practical Example Labour Cost Department of 20 machines Staff
One Knitting Manager and one assistant along with three shift in charges
Three Shift production
5000 kgs per day @ 145 per kg

57. Continue… Salary Bill KM 30000 Assistant 15000 Shift In charges 30000
Labour
Other Staff
Total

58. Material Consumption Yarn 5600 Kgs Yarn price 125 per kg
Needles 100 per day
Needles per six month
Sinker per six month
Machine oil 10 kg per day
Parts 200,000 per annum

59. Prices
Needles Rs. 35 per needle
Sinker Rs. 20 per needle
Oil Rs 120 per kg
Machine Price Rs. 2.5 million per machine
Depreciation 10 % straight
Financial cost 7.5 % per annum
Total project cost 85 Million

60. Calculate: Cost per kg with the current data Fixed and variable cost
Break Even point in Rs and in Kgs
Project pay back period
BE( pcs) F/P-V
BE $ F/1-V/P

61. Time Cost Concept
Per hour factory cost
Per month factory cost

62. Cost improvement strategy
Minimum fixed cost
Less wastage
High efficiency
Low idle time
Maximum utilisation of machines

63. Role of Knitting in Dimensional stability of Knitted Fabrics
Resistance to change in area

64. May be negative or positive
Change in the Area
May be negative
or positive

65. Textile Raw Material Spinning Knitting Wet Processing Stitching
Reason:
Textile Raw Material
Spinning
Knitting
Wet Processing
Stitching

66. Change Wanted? Unwanted? Wanted in case of bandages
Some time in fitted garments
Unwanted in case of garments

67. Can We Have Zero Shrinkage Garments
Yes…but with many ifs and buts
Normally Cannot
Have to live with tolerance

68. Tolerance Limits: Depends upon: Textile raw material Yarn Count
Knitting Structure

69. Mechanisms of Shrinkage
Swelling of fibers
If there is no swelling then there is no shrinkage ???????
Elongation of fibers
No elongation no shrinkage?????
Recoverable Elongation
High Recoverable Elongation no shrinkage ?????

70. Shrinkage Concept needs some clarification
--- due to swelling--- needs more lengthy path to travel
---kept in stretched form ---needs to be in natural form
---kept in pressed form ---needs to be in natural form

71. Other Factors--- ---space between loops and wales to move
---high tension during feeding --- residual
energy
---mixture of fine and course yarns

72. How knitting department can help in shrink controlling?
Yarn Twist
Yarn Tension
Knitting structure--- is not in the control of knitter, it depends upon designer
Proper combination of yarn count and machine guage
Uniform yarn feeder tension
Uniform and appropriate fabric take up tension

73. Total Productivity Management
What is productivity?
Doing more with less
Productivity is an approach, a mindset, and a way of thinking to do more with less

74. Why productivity? Increase output increase productivity
 Profit and productivity are synonymous
Cutting cost improve productivity
Profit today and tomorrow are possible
Partial productivity improvement is worthwhile
Productivity only applies to production

75. When Productivity?
v    High competition, survival is based upon the right balance between price quality and delivery
v    Manufacturing industry has been redistributed to include the third world.
v    The economic and social well being of people, and in turn the peace of the world, depends organisation of all kinds making effective use of the limited resources.
v    There is a huge need of funds for education, health and other services. It is the duty of the business organisations to mange their productivity more effectively to fulfil these needs.
The undesirable effects of inflation can be reduced by the efficient production

76. Conti…
Productivity becomes a crucial issue when there is a scarcity of resources.

77. TPM and Knitting Resource utilization Minimum wastage Maximum output
Invention in methods
Controlling and preventions
Improve contributing factors

78. Inputs in knitting Yarn Machines Machine spare parts
Machine accessories
Labour hours
Financial cost
Department per hour cost

79. Outputs:
Knitted fabric
Revenue from knitted fabric
Profit= Rev-cost

80. TMP CYCLE
Measure
Evaluate
Plan
Implement

81. How it is measured?
Documentation
Calculation
Monitoring

82. How it is evaluated? Compare With? Competitors Industry Sellers claims
Previous records

83. How to plan it? SWOT analysis Trend analysis By regression analysis
Think new ways
Involve every one
Group responsibility
Incentives
Celebrate the minor success
plot on graphs

84. Implement?
With full confidence of positive results

85. Achievements High production Low knitting faults
Low consumption of accessories
Low wear and tear cost
Less down time
In time deliveries
more profit
More employment

86. Benefits of High productivity
Only one way of survival

87. Quality control in knitting

88. Before Knitting
Yarn
Machine
Needles
Sinkers
Oil

89. Yarn
Before knitting
Count
Weight
Winding
Cone shapes
Packing

90. After Making samples Yarn variation Patta (Barrenness)
Thick and thin places
Dead cotton
Knots
Strength
Cotton color

91. Machine
Gauge
Working condition
Automation
Safety measures
Spare parts

92. Needles and sinkers
Quantity
Quality
Spare
Working conditions

93. Quality of knitted fabric
Knitting is a irreversible phenomenon
Checking can only intimate and no repair is possible
Only it can help in prevention

94. Checking Method 100% checking of knitted fabric Report is made
Report is presented to managers
Action is taken
Pass fail decisions are made

95. Point system Four point system is used, which is not useful
Rather checking should be on number of faults
Strong coordination is required between quality and production people