1. Legend Swimwear Factory Limited
Product Evaluation
Dr. M.Y. Leung

2. Content (2 hours) Introduction of Product Evaluation
Scope of Product evaluation
Specifications of Swimwear Fabrics
Fabric testing
Fabric Construction
Physical Properties
Colorfastness Properties

3. Scope of Evaluation Matching Pattern Labeling checking
Performance Testing
Scope of Evaluation
Product Inspection
Matching Pattern
Workmanship checking
Blind-stitched hem

4. Performance Quality of Textile Products

5. Performance Tests for Swimwear?? What suggestion for Care Label??

6. Swimwear fabrics
Knits specializing on stretchable & functional knits

7. Swimwear Fabrics
Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out print, puff print
Exit
Back to Overall

8. Stretch woven fabrics with Embroidery
Products
Stretch woven fabrics with Embroidery
Exit
Back to Overall

9. Care-label for Swimwear
Wash in warm water (40°C)
Do not bleach
Do not iron
Do not dry-clean/ No dry-clean
Do not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dry

10. Specification and Standard
Throughout the world there are numerous organizations to develop standard test methods and regulations to control the performance quality of textile.
Uniformity of standards are with a growing need.
International standards to alleviate some of the problems faced by manufacturers that export or import from foreign manufacturers are necessary.

11. Sources of Standards National Standards International Standards
Product
Spec
Company Standard
National Standards
International Standards

12. International Standards
International Used Standards:
The International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
British Standards (BS)
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS)
European Committee for Standardization (CEN)

13. What are the specifications for Swimwear?
Are there any difference between swimwear and other knitted and woven fabrics?
What make the difference?

14. Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
Characteristics
Requirement
Knitted
Woven
Breaking strength ASTM D5034
Bursting strength ASTM D 3787 (bursting attachment)
Yarn slippage, 6mm (separation) ASTM D 434
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424
Dimensional Change AATCC 135
Pressing and finishing
After 5 launderings (shrinkage > 3%)-
testing stretch
Growth ASTM D 2594
Colourfastness
Burnt Gas Fumes – 2 cycles AATCC 23
Shade change from original fabric
Shade change after 1 laundering -
222N
2% max
3% max
Class 4
111N (25 lbf)
89N (20lbf)
6.7 N (1.5lbf)
1% max (pre-finished)
2% max (post-finished)

15. Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
Characteristics
Requirement
Knitted
Woven
Colourfastness
Laundering: colour change AATCC 61
staining
Crocking: Dry AATCC 116
Wet
Perspiration: Shade Change AATCC 15
Staining
Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc) AATCC 16
Water: Chlorinated
Fabric Appearance AATCC 124, AATCC 96
Flammability FFA Part 1610
Class 4
Class 3
DP 3.5
Pass

16. Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM D 3996)
Characteristics
Requirement
Test
Bursting strength (Ball bursting)
Dimensional Change
Laundering
Non-stretch
Stretch
Wet relaxation or growth
Dry relaxation or growth
Colourfastness
Burnt Gas Fumes – 1 cycles
- Shade change from original fabric and after 1
laundering cycle
Sodium Hypochlorite bleach
Non-chlorine bleach
Shade change
Staining
ASTM D 3787
AATCC 135
AATCC 23
AATCC 188
AATCC 172
AATCC 61
30 lbf (133N)
5% max
7.5% max
10% max
Class 4
Class 3

17. Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
Characteristics
Requirement
Test
Colourfastness
Crocking: Dry
Wet
Perspiration: Shade Change
Staining
Sea water: Shade Change
Ozone: Shade change
Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc)
Flammability FFA Part 1610
AATCC 8 (solid)/ AATCC 116 (print)
AATCC 15
AATCC 106
AATCC 129
AATCC 16
Class 4
Class 3
Pass

18. Buyer’s Specification for Knitted Swimwear
Characteristics
Test
Requirement
Mass per square meter
Force & Elongation
Dimensional Change (Drying tumble)
Colourfastness
Nitrogen Oxide
Artificial Light
Washing at 40°C
Water
Sea water
Chlorinated water
Perspiration
Dry Rubbing
Wet Rubbing
Fibre Composition
ISO 3801
ISO 5077
BS 4294
ISO 105G/01
ISO 105B/02
ISO 105C06
ISO 105E01
ISO 105E02
ISO 105E03
ISO 105E04
ISO 105X12
ISO 1833
±3%
±10%
4/5 4

19. What are the different between testing swimwear/fabrics and commercial apparel fabrics?

20. Fabric with Stretch Most fabrics used for swimwear are elastic
By insertion of Spandex/ Lycra etc.
All elastic yarns are covered with a layers of fibres/ filaments
Two ways of covering: air-jet and wrapping

21. Fabric Analysis Standard Conditions: Pre-conditioned:
Stored the specimen in chamber with
Temperature < 50°C
Relative humidity: 10 to 25 %
Conditioned:
BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%
ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%
What types of tests are required to carry out in controlled condition?

22. Fabric Analysis Standard Conditions: Pre-conditioned: Conditioned:
BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%
ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%
What types of tests are required to carry out in controlled condition?

23. Tensile Strength For fabric with stretch < 11%
To obtain the breaking load and elongation at break of a textile fabric
Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L 1096, ISO :99)
Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L 1096, ISO )
clamp
200 mm
3 inches
Grab Test Strip Test
clamp

24. Load and Elongation Curve
Tensile Strength
Load and Elongation Curve

25. Tearing Strength
Tearing strength refers to the force required to break a group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) together by tearing off the fabric.
There are various types of tearing depends on application.

26. Tearing Strength Elmendorf
Only for warp-direction of warp knit and woven
ASTM D
JIS L 1096
Tongue Tear
Single rip
ASTM D

27. Elmendorf Tearing Strength
Criteria:
The tearing strength must be within 80% of the centre capacity.
What happen if the tearing load is at the 95% of the max loading?
Release the weight to tear off the fabric

28. Bursting Strength (most common for knitted fabrics)
Bursting is radial or multi-directional breaking strength.
There are two types of bursting strength: ball bursting and hydraulic bursting.
Multi-directional force from a steel ball is push up the fabric held in flat until rupture.
Multi-directional force from pressure of an inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric until rupture.

29. Bursting Strength

30. Bursting Strength Diaphragm bursting
For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch > 20%
ISO :99/BS 4768, ASTM D
Ballistic ball bursting
For high strength fabric or high stretch fabric
ASTM D

31. Bursting Strength Radial extension Hydraulic diaphragm bursting
Bursting pressure
= P(f+d) - P(d)

32. Fabric Stretch Stretched the fabric in defined load/ length
Keep the stretched fabric for defined time
Measure the change of L L

33. Fabric Stretch and Growth
Stretch = (L2 – L1) x 100% L1
L2: extended length under load
L1: original length L2 L1

34. Fabric Stretch and Growth
Growth = (L3 – L1) x 100% L1
L3: extended length after released
L1: original length L3 L1

35. Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home Laundering

36. Dimensional Stability
Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a textile product can be a significant factor in its acceptance by consumers.
Terminology:
“Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a number of process that textiles may undergo to remove soil and stains and to restore the appearance of the items.
Two most common refurbishing methods are “laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.

37. Dimensional Stability
Refurbishing
A) Laundering
It is based on the use of water as a solvent
Water is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stains
Detergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaning
B) Dry-cleaning
It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils and stains, such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeup
Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do not swell significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.

38. Dimensional Stability
Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to resist a change in its dimensions.
A fabric or garment may exhibit shrinkage or growth under conditions of refurbishing.
Items are especially affected by the moisture and heat used in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming and pressing.
There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur when textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.

39. What are the causes of Dimensional Instability?
Relaxation Shrinkage:
Results of relaxation of stress of fabric
Progressive Shrinkage
Dimensional change that continues through successive washing
Growth
Shrinks in length results grow in width
Yarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkage
It occurs in thermoplastic fibres.
Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move more randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the length

40. Relaxation Shrinkage
Dry state: Yarns are stretched and temporarily set.
Release of strains
Energy released
Irreversible
Need several washings to min & stable energy level.

41. Causes of stretching (Woven)
Warping
Weaving
Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.

42. Causes of Extension (Knitted)
Take-down tension of the knitting m/c
Sewing or spreading of the knitted goods

43. Fibre Level: Progressive
Progressive Shrinkage
Fibre Swelling
Fibre movement within the textile structure
What causes progressive
shrinkage more serious?
Alkaline medium
Higher temperature
Greater freedom of movement.

44. How does fibre swelling would lead to fabric shrinkage?
Fibre swelling Yarn swelling
Balance of force
If so, how to solve the problem of shrinkage due to fibre swelling?

45. Contraction of Yarn Decrease in length of yarn
Normally by heat/ high temperature
Synthetic filament is most sensitive
How to reduce the shrinkage situation?

46. Dimensional Stability
Shrinkage Measurement
BS 5807/ BS 4923
AATCC 135 (fabric)
AATCC 61 (garment)
Report on 1st and last washes
Benchmarks the length of 50cm or 25cm apart for both warp and weft directions
Measure the dimension of products after treatment
Shrinkage % = Original - after wash x 100%
Original length
Growth is positive
Shrinkage is negative

47. Dimensional Instability Results Interpretation
For apparel products, the required maximum shrinkage or growth usually are dependent on types of products.
For woven fabrics: usually maximum shrinkage after laundering is 2.0 to 3.0%
For knitted fabrics: allowance for shrinkage is higher, usually 5.0%
For stretch fabric: allowance for shrinkage will be higher.

48. Colorfastness AATCC Definition of Colorfastness
Resistance of a material to any change in any of its color characteristics,
Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, or both
after exposure to any environment

49. Color Loss during daily uses
Frosting
Bleeding
Fading
Yellowing
Crocking
Color leaves the surface of fabric due to abrasion. (Detaches)
Migration of color from wet fabric into water and then to others.
Lightening of color due to loss or breakdown of dye.
The change of color base to a very yellow version of a color.
Transfer of a color to another surface through rubbing

50. Bleeding piping 50

51. Color loss in drycleaning51

52. Frosting 52

53. Light fading 53

54. Evaluation of Color change/ Staining (Visual Assessment)
Gray Scale for Color Change
Gray Scale for Staining
Chromatic Scale
Blue Wool Standard (Light Fastness)

55. Gray Scale for Color Change
Nine steps of color difference by stationary pairs of gray chips
Half step rating
5 indicates no difference (two gray chips with same color)
1 indicates extreme difference
Neutral gray = 12 ±1%

56. Evaluation & Report Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:
Gray Scale for Colour Change
Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cm
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE *
GRAY SCALE 5
No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5
4.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5 4
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4
3.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4 3
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3
2.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3 2
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2
1.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2 1
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1
* 5 = no colour difference
1 = highest degree of colour difference
Fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test
Original fabric colour

57. Gray Scale for Staining
Nine pairs of white and gray color chips.
Half step rating
5 indicates no difference (2 white chips)
1 indicates extreme difference
Rating is based on the color difference of the gradually increase darkness gray chip and the white chip

58. Evaluation & Report 2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Original colour of multifiber test fabric
Multifiber test fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test

59. Multi-fibre Fabric Warp: Filament Dacron 55 Weft: multi-fibre fabric
Acetate
Cotton
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
Wool

60. Evaluation & Report 2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to Perspiration
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale
Multifiber Test Fabric
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE
GRAY SCALE 5
Negligible or no color transfer
4.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 4
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 3
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 2
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 1
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

61. Visual Assessment Method
Light Sources:
Daylight D-65 (North Sky light)
White fluorescent/ UV
Viewing angle:
Specimen is 45° from horizontal
Viewing perpendicular to the specimen

62. Color fastness to Laundering
Sewn the specimen to a white cotton fabric/ multi-fibre fabric
Wash using the LaunderOmeter
Assessment:
Color change (Grey scale for color change)
Staining (Grey scale for staining)

63. Colorfastness to Laundering
LaunderOmeter

64. Wash Test ISO 105-C06 Test no. Temp. °C pH Liquor 4g/l detergent Cl %
Sodium perborate
No. of steel balls single 30 mins
No. of steel balls multiple
45 mins A1 40
150 10 A2 1 B1 50 B2 C1 60
10.5 25 C2 D1 70
100 D2 D3
0.015 E1 95 E2

65. Color Fastness to Crocking
Rub the fabric with a white cotton fabric
10 cycles in 10 seconds
Dry rubbing
Wet rubbing
Assessment on mainly on staining

66. Colorfastness to Perspiration/ Water/ Sea Water
It is designed to determine the colour fastness of textiles to perspiration, water, sea water.
BS 1006, BS EN 20105, ISO 105, AATCC 15
Perspirometer

67. Procedures
Soak test 6 X 6 cm specimen in the perspiration solution for 30 ±2min.
2) Pass specimen through wringer
Weight specimen. Should be 2.25 ±.05 times the original dry weight.

68. Procedures
4) Place assembled multi-fiber fabric & specimen on a glass plate.
5) Place the plates in the perspiration tester to provide uniform contact between the multi-fiber & fabric sample under a standard load. Then, secure the pressure plate
Heat loaded specimen into oven at 38ºC for 6hr
Place in conditioned atmosphere overnight (21ºC, 65% RH).

69. Evaluation & Report Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:
Gray Scale for Colour Change
Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cm
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE *
GRAY SCALE 5
No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5
4.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5 4
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4
3.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4 3
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3
2.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3 2
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2
1.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2 1
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1
* 5 = no colour difference
1 = highest degree of colour difference
Fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test
Original fabric colour

70. Evaluation & Report 2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Original colour of multifiber test fabric
Multifiber test fabric colour after colourfastness perspiration test

71. Evaluation & Report 2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to Perspiration
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale
Multifiber Test Fabric
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE
GRAY SCALE 5
Negligible or no color transfer
4.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 4
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 3
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 2
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining. 1
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.

72. Color fastness to Light
Using the Blue Wool standard for assessment
By grade
ISO 105 B02
BS 1006 D01
By fading unit
AATCC 16E

73. Assessment for Light Fastness
Measurement of Colorfastness to light for AATCC standard is measured the fading units.
Specimen = grayscale G4, ? Step of bluewool it is? L2 L3 L4 L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 4 ?

74. Assessment for Light Fastness
Before exposure to the Xenon light source, the light source is required to be checked by the Blue Wool Standard
Standard hours, specimen = Grayscale ? Step
10 to 40 hours ?

75. Flammability standards for normal wearing apparel
Class 1: Normal flammability (suitable for clothing).
Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or more for non-raised fibre fabrics
Flame spread is 7.0 seconds or more for raised fibre fabrics.
Class 2: Intermediate flammability.
Flame spread is from 4 to 7 seconds and the base fabric ignites or fuses.
Class 3: Rapid and intense burning (unsuitable for clothing).
Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or less for non-raised fibre fabrics
Flame spread is less than 4.0 seconds for raised fibre fabrics.

76. Flammability Test (45°)
Time required for the flame to proceed up to a distance of 5 in (127 mm) is recorded.
The automatic timer can be stopped by breaking the stop cord at 5 inches length from the starting position.
Cotton string
45°
Fire source
Timer

77. END
Product Evaluation