1. Glacier Travel Rob Jagnow

3. What makes glacier travel different from above-treeline travel?…

4. Crevasses!

6. Anatomy of a Glacier Moat Bergschrund Firn line Terminus Terminal moraine Medial Moraine Lateral Moraine

7. Gear Everything for above treeline travel, plus… Rope Harness Helmet Prusiks Anchors Slings Belay device Carabiners Wands

8. Roping Up

9. Route Finding Avoid Likely Crevasse Locations Avoid Potential Pendulum Falls (keep the rope perpendicular to crevasses) Wand you way Probe camp area Belay climbers in an out of camp

10. Oops!

11. Rescue Options Self Rescue Team Rescue

12. Self Rescue Drop Backpack (2-to-1 advantage) Prusik up rope

13. Team Rescue Set anchor –Snow picket –Fluke –Deadman –Bollard Self-belay to edge Check on climber Pad lip

14. Team Rescue Brute Force (Only with lots of haulers) Single Pulley (2-to-1 advantage) Z-Pulley (3-to-1 advantage) Other systems (x-to-1 advantage)

15. Single Pulley

16. Z-Pulley

20. End