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Published byKerry Washington Modified over 9 years ago
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Just Say “NO” to Your Auto Setting! MANUAL CAMERA SETTINGS
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CAMERA OVERVIEW/SET-UP/NAVIGATION MODE DIAL Auto – never again! M - manual A/Av – Aperture Priority S/Tv – Shutter Priority P – Program Scene modes (varies/camera brand/model) NAVIGATION PAD Up, down, left, right, centre (selection) VIEWFINDER Digital viewfinder uses battery life, use eyesight viewfinder MENU Quality > Settings > Creative PLAYBACK (PLAY BUTTON) DELETE (TRASH CAN) Avoid card formatting (you can lose primary and ‘hidden’ files)
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SD CARDS SD Cards store your photo files Inserted into the camera with a “push down” motion to insert/remove Can be deleted ON the camera or on the computer Can be locked (to avoid having someone delete/override your photos)
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BATTERIES Different brands/models of cameras require different batteries (newer cameras have batteries with a charge that lasts longer) Inserted into camera past the small lock; lock must be pushed aside to remove Batteries must be charged regularly to ensure you have full use during shooting studio time
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IMAGE QUALITY Click MENU > Red Icons (camera) – control the quality of the images you will make Image Quality - L Blue Icons (play button) – creative features, filters, and playback options Yellow Icons (wrench) – camera settings
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ACCURATE COLOUR (AKA. “WHITE BALANCE”) How the camera interprets colour generally, leave it on AWB unless you aren’t getting good results AWB – Auto Tungsten – bluish (bulb) Daylight – bright (sun) Shade – yellow/beige (house) Fluorescent – bluish-white (wide bulb) Flash – beige (lightening arrow) Cloudy – grey (cloud)
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BRIGHTNESS/EXPOSURE COMPENSATION Make simple adjustments to brightness without changing Aperture, ISO, Shutter, etc. The meter should ALWAYS be at 0 when exposure it is over exposed (too light), it will read as +1…+2…+3… When exposure it is under exposed (too dark), it will read as -1….-2….- 3…. Look for this icon…
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FOCUS ONE SHOT AF-S static subjects, focus will lock (beep), user has to refocus AI SERVIO AF-C moving subjects, focus doesn’t lock, camera tracks subject AI FOCUS AF-A camera alternates between both modes On subject
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EXPOSURE The amount of LIGHT needed to record an image Exposure varies according to three factors: 1) Shutter Speed motion 2) Aperture depth of field 3) ISO sensitivity to light
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SHUTTER SPEED & SHUTTER PRIORITY (TV) Shutter: Freeze motion VS blur motion How FAST or SLOW the camera shutter will open/close (like a curtain) Different speeds create different effects 1” – ½ - ¼ - 1/8 – 1/16 – 1/30 – 1/60 – 1/125 SLOWER (more light) FASTER (less light) 1” = 1 sec VS 1/125 = 1/125 th of a sec Shutter Priority (Tv) Camera shutter can be set and ISO & Aperture are automatically set with the shutter setting chosen Give total control of shutter without worrying about ISO & aperture
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SHUTTER SPEED & SHUTTER PRIORITY (TV) FAST (1/125 OR 1/500) MEDIUMSLOW (2” +)
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APERTURE & APERTURE PRIORITY(AV) & DEPTH OF FIELD The opening INSIDE your lens Can be made larger or smaller, depending on how much light you want to exposure your image Creates different creative results Measured in “f stops”
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APERTURE & APERTURE PRIORITY(AV) & DEPTH OF FIELD
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ISO Sensitivity to light AUTO ISO = will determine best option for you ISO 100 = less sensitive, darker, more natural light needed, clearer ISO 3200 = more sensitive, lighter, less natural light, grainy
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Scenario & ResultISO Fine detail100, 200, 400 Outdoors with good light100, 200, 400 Weak light, unstable800, 1600, 3200 Weal light, unstable, no need to freeze motion 100, 200, 400 Suggested default200 (or Auto ISO)
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FLASH/LIGHTING PROsCONs Provides light in dark settings Brightens subject/object Larger flash = softer, more balanced light External flash can be directed/moved Can be too bright Makes skin pale/white ish Causes red-eye Stock flash causes shadows External flash is heavy
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FOCAL LENGTH
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