1. Today’s Tune “This is the Sea” by The Waterboys

2. Next Midterm Monday, May 16, 2011, 1:00 ¥ Here in Gilfillan Auditorium, closed book ¥ Same format as Test 1 ¥ Bring #2 pencil ¥ Study Guide POSTED on main class web site: http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/103syl.html http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/103syl.html

3. Transformation of Wind-Driven Deep-water Waves

4. Transformation of Wind-Driven Shallow-water Waves

5. Photography by Clark Little

14. Tsunamis ¥ Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. –open ocean: short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods -- 400-500 mph!!! –shallow water: their length shortens and their height increases dramatically.

15. Global Wave Propagation After 2004 Sumatra Event Titov, V., A.B. Rabinovich, H.O. Mojfeld, R.E. Thomson, and F.I. Gonzalez, The global reach of the 26 December 2004 Sumatra tsunami, Science, 309 (5743), 2045-2048, 2005.

17. Oregon Coastal Atlas Tsunami Hazard Information http://www.coastalatlas.net or http://bit.ly/FG8rz

18. Tsunami from slumping

19. Driscoll et al., Geology, 28(5):407-410 North Carolina Example

20. Back to Wind-Driven Scenarios: Storm Surges ¥ extremely high water levels due to –Low pressure system - big storms ¥ persistent onshore winds ¥ rise in sea level

21. Hurricanes! (W. Atlantic) Cyclones! (W. Pacific)

22. NASA Advanced Microwave Scanning Radar Hurricane Katrina, Saturday, Aug 27, 2005

23. NASA PPT Radar, Visible Infrared Scanner, Tropical Microwave Imager GOES satellite L Accumulation of water driven shoreward by storm winds: Elevated sea level at shore Hurricane Katrina, Sunday, Aug 28, 2005

24. ESRI.com New Orleans, Wednesday, Aug 31, 2005

25. OSU Wave Tank

26. Back to 1998 El Niño “The Perfect Storm” Condition Black in Hawaii

27. Other Types of Progressive Waves ¥ There is one other notable type of progressive waves. –Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines.

28. Internal Waves ¥ Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. –They occur when water masses slip over one another. –They have very long periods and very large heights.

29. Advection Along Internal Waves

30. Standing Waves ¥ Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. ¥ Standing waves (seiches)… –Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. –Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin.

31. Node = Fixed Point Antinode = maximum displacement

32. Summary ¥ Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. ¥ The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. ¥ Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. ¥ A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water!

33. Summary (Cont.) ¥ As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. ¥ The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore.