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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT BioTrade Ingredients and Cosmetics Andrew Jones Fair Venture Consulting andrew.jones@fairventure.com
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 2 BioTrade Ingredients for Cosmetics Background – Development, industry, supply chain, new ingredients Natural Ingredients for Cosmetics Market Growth Natural (function/benefit) Ethical Innovation Differentiation BioTrade ingredients Smart Sourcing Native Biodiversity Regulatory New Ingredients Existing Ingredients Collaboration
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 3 BioTrade Ingredients Ingredients identified by local and international companies and local and internationalist specialists Screened for suitability Exchange of information, in both directions, “push and pull”
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 4 Native Biodiversity Current Situation Products not known or less well known Some further advanced with documentation Others - more research and development and documentation needed Differentiation with BioTrade verification Existing and new ingredients for cosmetics
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 5 BioTrade Ingredients Range of ingredients: Vegetable oils Essential oils Other plant extracts – fruits, vegetables Formulation opportunities/needs Regulatory requirements
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 6 Natural Colours Genipa americana extract Derived from Genipa americana A fruit from the Amazon Traditionally used as temporary tattoo by indigenous people in Amazon Also used in food products
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 7 Genipa americana Active compound is Genipin Reported to have anti-inflammatory properties Also found in Gardenia extracts Colours obtained range from Blue to Black Water soluble Available in UK as temporary tattoo product EU Cosmetics Directive and Colours
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 8 Sacha Inchi Oil Vegetable oil extracted from Plukenetia volubilis Becoming known in Europe Raw material availability BioTrade
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 9 Bolivia Cupuassu Butter Known in Europe for use in cosmetics Supplied by communities in Bolivian Amazon Differentiation with BioTrade?
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 10 Colombia Jacaranda caucana (“Guandalay”) Native plant, wild collected, from Colombia Traditional use is anti-bacterial Available as spray dried or liquid extract Possible use as natural preservative or for blemished skin?? Formulation requirements Regulatory requirements
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 11 Colombia Petiveria alliacea (Anamu) Native plant, wild collected, from Colombia Traditional use is anti-inflammatory Available all year round Available as spray dried or liquid extract Possible use as soothing ingredient?? Formulation requirements Regulatory requirements
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UNITED NATIONS CONFERENCE ON TRADE AND DEVELOPMENT 11 May 2007 | 12 Uganda Ugandan Shea Butter A variety of the well known Butyrospermum parkii (West Africa) Softer texture compared to shea butter from West Africa Extracted in Uganda Existing ingredient for cosmetics with a degree of novelty
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