1. You will learn about: Matter pH Scale Chemistry of Cosmetics

2. Why Chemistry?
The professional cosmetologist needs to understand the chemicals he/she works with in order to:
- safely perform chemical services requested by clients,
- teach clients how to care for their hair following chemical services,
- and, sell products to their clients.

3. Elements that make up hair
# Element Symbol Form
6 Carbon C Solid
8 Oxygen O Gas
1 Hydrogen H Gas
7 Nitrogen N Gas
16 Sulfur S Solid

4. Chemical Bonds
Atoms combine chemically to create compounds that eventually create protein of hair.

5. Amino Acids Compounds of C,O,H,N 22 Common amino acids
Join together in chains to make proteins

6. Protein Hair is made up of protein called keratin
Hair is 97% keratin and 3% trace minerals
Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids.

7. Hydrogen Bond Unlike charges attract.
Makes up about 35% of hairs strength.
Individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair.
How it Works:
The hydrogen atom in one molecule is attracted to an atom of another molecule that has many negative electrons.

8. Salt Bonds This bond is a result of the attraction of unlike charges.
Also broken by water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair.
How it Works:
Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping.

9. How Hydrogen and Salt Bonds are Broken by Water
Water molecules can easily break hydrogen and salt bonds when the water molecules move in between the bonds. When the water molecules are not present the hydrogen and bonds come back together.
H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H
Hydrogen Bonds broken by water molecules

10. Disulfide Bonds
Sulfur containing side bond - Most important to a Cosmetologist.
A chemical bond that forms between protein structures; sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains to form disulfide bonds.
Much stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds.
Not broken by heat or water. Only a chemical change.
Example – permanent wave

11. End Bonds (Peptide Bonds)
Backbone of all protein molecules
Links the amino acid protein chains together end to end.
Do not disturb the end bond, this could destroy the protein structure.
If broken, protein chains separate into small fragments, or revert to groups of amino acids that no longer have the characteristics of hair.
RESULT – VERY DAMAGED HAIR!

12. Side Bonds Link the long spiraling protein chains together.
Made up of hydrogen, salt and disulfide and Van der Waal’s forces.
Label the Bonds
Van der Waal’s

13. Hair Shaft

14. Cuticle Layer

15. Close Look at the Cuticle Layer

16. The pH Scale
In this section you will learn what the pH scale is and it’s values associated with water, acids and alkalines.
Conditioners & Shampoo
Hair relaxers
Soap
Hair

17. Potential Hydrogen Abbreviation – pH
Measures whether substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

18. Water-Based Solutions
pH measures amount of acid or alkali only in a water based solution.
Only solutions containing water or solutions that can be dissolved in water can be acid or alkaline in value.
Most products used in salon have water listed as main ingredient.

19. More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions
Acid
More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions

20. Acid 0 – 6.99 on pH scale Skin and hair acid-balanced at 4.5 – 5.5
Ex. Lemons and Conditioners

21. Neutral
Equal number of hydrogen and hydroxide ions.
7.0
Ex. Water

22. Alkaline
More negative hydroxide ions than hydrogen ions.

23. Alkaline
7.01 – 14 on pH scale
Ex. Amonia and Hair
Relaxer

24. pH Scale
Unit of measurement – determines if substance is acid, neutral or alkaline.
Ranges from 0 – 14
7 is Neutral

25. 0 – 6.99
Acid range (orange)
More positive hydrogen ions

26.
Alkaline range (purple)
More negative hydroxide ions

27. Acid Balanced pH is in the same range as skin and hair 4.5 – 5.5
Ex. Acid Balanced Shampoo

28. Emulsions 2 or more non-mixable substances united by a binder (gum).
Example: oil in water (perms)
Example: water in oil (cold cream)

29. Soaps
Mixtures of fat and oil converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified.

30. Shampoo Cleans the scalp and hair
Removes all foreign debris without adversely affecting scalp and hair.

31. How Shampoo Works
A push pull action is caused by a surface active agent causing the oil to “roll up” into droplets that are lifted and rinsed away.

32. Has water loving and oil loving ends.
Surfactant
Surface active agent
Has water loving and oil loving ends.
Surfactant Molecule
Oil Loving
Water Loving

33. The tail of the shampoo molecule is attracted to oil and dirt

34. Shampoo causes oil to roll up into small globules

35. During rinsing, the heads of the shampoo molecules attach to water molecules and cause debris to roll off.

36. Thorough rinsing washes away debris & excess shampoo.

37. The Role of Water Universal solvent Neutral pH Hard water = minerals
Hard to lather
Soft water preferred (allows lather)

38. WHAT WE JUST READ HEAD TO HEAD CHALLENGE

39. Types of Shampoos

40. All Purpose Low Alkaline Low surfactants Mild, does not strip color
Example: Redken Clear Moisture

41. Plain Usually strong High alkaline Not for chemically treated hair
Follow with acid rinse
Ex: Baby shampoo
Doesn’t burn eyes because it’s high in alkaline and so are eyes.

42. Soapless Shampoo Able to lather without harsh alkaline ingredient
Works in soft and hard water

43. Acid - Balanced Made to have same pH as the skin and hair
Will not strip color

44. Medicated Often must have prescription
Designed to treat scalp and hair problems

45. Clarifying
Removes residue
Such as product build-up.

46. Anti-Dandruff Control dandruff
Massage scalp vigorously and rinse thoroughly

47. Liquid Dry Used when client can’t receive normal shampoo
Works with wigs
Evaporates from hair
Very drying

48. Powder Dry For bedridden clients
Orris root powder absorbs oil and dirt as product is brushed through the hair.
Don’t use prior to chemical service.

49. Conditioning
Contain animal, vegetable or mineral additives that enter cortex or coat cuticle.
Improve strength and porosity.

50. Color
Contain temporary color molecules that stick to outer cuticle of hair.

51. For Thinning Hair Gentle Lighter molecular weight
Provides healthy environment for hair growth.

52. Rinses and Conditioners

53. Rinses and Conditioners give hair the appearance of Shine and Luster

54. Porosity - Amount of moisture in the hair.
Hair Porosity is the ability of the hair to retain & absorb moisture, determined by how raised or compact the cuticle layers are.

55. Porosity Test

56. How easily a comb passes through the hair.
Manageability
How easily a comb passes through the hair.

57. Elasticity
The hairs ability to stretch and return to its natural shape without breaking.

58. Types of Rinses

59. Vinegar and Lemon Rinse
Acid rinses
Remove soap scum
Counteract alkalinity.

60. Cream Rinse
Soften
Add luster
Only slightly acidic

61. Control dandruff and minor scalp conditions.
Medicated Rinse
Control dandruff and minor scalp conditions.

62. Conditioners

63. Instant Conditioner Coat the hair shaft Restore moisture and oils
Do NOT penetrate into the cortex
Not for fine limp hair

64. Normalizing Contain vegetable protein
Acidic pH causes cuticle to close after chemical services.

65. Body-Building Required for fine, limp hair Deposits protein
Can use prior to chemical services

66. Moisturizing Humectants bind and hold moisture in the hair.
Avoid use for several days following perm (may go limp)

67. Customized
Formulated to meet special needs
Ex. Moisture and color

68. Shampoo Web

70. What We Just Read Head to Head Challenge