1. 1889 the first manufactured fiber was shown at the Paris Exhibition
FASH 15 textiles
the fiber manufacturing process
1889 the first manufactured fiber was shown at the Paris Exhibition
1910 rayon
1924 acetate
1939 nylon—synthetic

2. the fiber manufacturing process
manufactured fiber—any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber
generic names—refers to family of manufactured or synthetic fibers with similar chemical composition
trade names—companies’ names for fibers used for promotion & marketing
two types of manufactured fibers—
regenerated
synthetic
impact has far exceeded original predictions—caused tremendous changes in the way people live

3. the fiber manufacturing process

4. fiber spinning raw material is: natural product—cellulose or protein
synthetic polymer
dissolved in liquid chemicals and made into a spinning solution (dope)
all manufactured-fiber spinning processes are based on these 3 steps:
preparing a viscous dope or melt
forcing or extruding dope or melt through opening in spinneret to form a fiber
solidifying the fiber by coagulation, evaporation or cooling

5. fiber spinning

6. fiber spinning

7. fiber spinning

8. fiber modifications
there are 5 general ways that a fiber modification can be made:
the size and shape of the spinneret can be changed to produce fibers of different sizes and shapes
the fiber’s molecular structure and crystallinity can be changed to enhance fiber durability
other compounds can be added to the polymer or dope to enhance fiber performance
the spinning process can be modified to alter fiber characteristics
in a more complex modification, two polymers can be combined as separate entities within a single fiber or yarn

9. fiber modifications—spinneret
changing fiber size is a common modification—simplest way is changing size of spinneret opening
macrofiber: denier greater than 1.0
microfiber: denier less than 1.0
ultrafine fibers: less than 0.3 dpf
nanofibers: fibers with cross sections measuring less than 1,000 nanometers (human hair 80,000 nm)
macro & microfibers currently used in apparel and interior applications
nanofibers used in protective apparel, safety harnesses & technical/medical filtration

10. fiber modifications—fiber shape
changing cross-sectional shape is easiest way to alter a fiber’s mechanical & aesthetic properties—usually by changing shape of spinneret hole
many shapes possible: flat, trilobal, quadrilobal, pentalobal, triskelion, cruciform, cloverleaf, Y, T
trilobal widely used in nylon & polyester—beautiful silklike hand, sheen & color, subtle opacity, soil-hiding capacity, bulk without weight, wicking, crush resistance, & good textured crimp
multilobal fibers improve hydrophilic, wicking and moisture management properties

11. fiber modifications—molecular structure
manufacturers can change molecular structure for specific end uses:
high-tenacity fibers—modification of polymer to increase polymerization
low-piling fibers—slightly reduced molecular weight of polymer chains
binder staple—when mixture is heated, bonds regular fibers together
low-elongation—changing the balance of tenacity and extension (useful in blends)
shape memory fibers—designed to conform to specific shape when specific stimuli (heat, light, etc…) are activated

12. fiber modifications—additives
delustering:
titanium oxide—a white pigment—is added to spinning solution before fiber is extruded; particles of pigment absorb light…weakens fiber
solution dyeing:
addition of colored pigments
or dyes to spinning solution;
provides color permanence;
cost more per pound
than other fibers

13. fiber modifications—additives
whiteners & brighteners:
added to spinning solution to make fibers look whiter & resist yellowing; reflect more blue light & masks yellowing
cross-dyeable fibers:
incorporates dye-accepting chemicals into molecular structure
antistatic fibers:
fiber is made wettable by adding an antistatic compound to the fiber-polymer raw material

14. fiber modifications—additives
sunlight-resistant fibers:
nitrogenous compounds added to dope to stabilize reaction between UV light and fiber or dye; carefully selected for specific fiber-dye combination
flame-resistant fibers:
produced by changing polymer structure or by adding flame-retardant compounds to spinning solution

15. fiber modifications—additives
antibacterial fibers:
chemical compounds that kill or discourage growth of bacteria and other microbes are incorporated in spinning solution prior to extrusion or during spinning
may require frequent washing to remove microbial debris and allow additive to work on living microbes

16. fiber modifications—complex
fiber modifications that provide comfort and improve human performance are important in today’s industry
more efficient materials produce lighter-weight, more comfortable products
manage moisture
wick perspiration away from skin
provide warmth or insulation
decrease friction & increase speed
protect from wind, rain or snow

17. environmental concerns & sustainability
use only a small fraction of the by-products of the production of gasoline and fuel oils
fibers like nylon, polyester & olefin produced from natural gases or butadiene (by-product of refining crude oil)
significant efforts have been made by fiber producers to minimize negative environmental aspects of fiber production:
government regulations
concern for safety
economic necessity of reducing costs
public image concerns

18. environmental concerns & sustainability
natural degrading of fiber?
with current landfill practices, natural fibers do not even degrade on their own
recycling of synthetic fibers very important to industry—polyester produced from preconsumer and postconsumer waste include a range of products from underwear to carpeting
“100% recyclable products” will be taken back by manufacturer and recycled when disposed of by consumer

19. manufactured fiber consumption
in 1928 manufactured fibers accounted for 5% of fiber consumption in the U.S…
now
64% world textile consumption
83% U.S. textile consumption
consumers continue to value natural fibers, but in many end uses manufactured fibers are clearly superior

20. manufactured vs. natural fibers
manufactured fibers provide performance options not possible with natural fibers
incredibly versatile and modified to meet wide range of performance expectations
can be produced quickly in the quantity and quality needed to meet market demand