1. Haircoloring Special Effects
Cosmetology:
Haircoloring Special Effects
Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

2. “Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure
“Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. The fearful are caught as often as the bold”
Helen Keller

3. Objectives
Demonstrate special effects haircoloring techniques; cap, foil and balayage
Understand special problems encountered in haircoloring
List safety precautions in haircoloring
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
Now that you have a good grasp of color theory, the law of color, and the various basic haircoloring procedures, it is time to explore the special effects and problems in haircoloring that may require corrective coloring procedures. Since every haircoloring service is unique, you must carefully analyze the hair and consult with the client about his/her needs. We have stressed the importance of strand and patch testing before any haircoloring service. However, even after you have become extremely skilled and experienced, you will still occasionally encounter a haircolor problem. As we have learned, these problems can result from a variety of reasons including the client’s hair structure, hair condition, prior treatments, and so forth. Most problems can be resolved or corrected. Remain calm and call on the underlying judgments and techniques that you have developed in your training and experience.
Any technique of partial lightening is known as special effects highlighting. You will be adapting placement of lightened strands and colors in the hair to fit current styles and trends. As you perform special effects haircoloring you will see that light colors advance toward the eye, appearing larger and making detail more visible. On the other hand, contrasting dark colors will cause the area of the style to recede, appear smaller, and make styling details less visible.
This is one area of cosmetology where you can really develop your creativity. You will try tone on tone, reverse highlighting, dimensional coloring, scrunching, and other techniques we will learn in this lesson.

4. Highlighting Some strands lighter Illusion of depth Does not contrast
Details more visible
SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLORING: Any technique that involves partially lightening or coloring the hair is known as special effects haircoloring.
HIGHLIGHTING
Coloring some strands lighter than natural color.
Adds a variety of lighter shades and illusion of depth.
Does not contrast strongly with natural color usually.
Lighter colors advance to the eye to appear larger. Details become more visible.

5. Reverse Highlighting Low lighting Some strands darker
Dark areas recede
REVERSE HIGHLIGHTING: Also called low lighting.
• Coloring some strands darker than natural.
• Dark areas recede and appear smaller; details become less visible.

6. Cap Techniques Lightener or high-lift color Rinsed and shampooed
Towel-blotted and conditioned
Toned if desired
METHODS OF HIGHLIGHTING
CAP TECHNIQUE: Involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook. See Figure The number of strands pulled through cap determines the degree of highlighting achieved.
Lightener or high-lift color is used.
Lightener is rinsed and then shampooed from hair.
Hair is towel-blotted and conditioned.
Lightened hair is toned if desired. See Figures and

7. Foil Techniques Sliced or weaved Placed on foil or plastic wrap
Apply lightener or color
Sections sealed
FOIL TECHNIQUE
Strands are sliced or weaved out of a section. Placing foil in hair takes practice and discipline. Slicing involves taking a narrow 1/8" section of hair by making a straight part at scalp, positioning hair over foil and applying lightener or color. Weaving involves picking up selected strands of hair with a zigzag motion of comb and applying lightener or color only to those strands. See Figures and
Weaved sections are placed on foil or plastic wrap.
Lightener or color is applied.
Weaved sections are sealed in the wrap.

8. Foil Patterns Face-frame Half-head Three-quarter head Full-head
FOIL PATTERNS: The many patterns used with foil include face-frame, half-head, three-quarter head, and full-head, which all produce different highlights in different portions of head.

9. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
Waterproof cape
Towel
Foil
Gloves
Plastic clips
Bowl/brushes
Tail comb
Applicator brush
Lightener
Record card
Applicator bottle
SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLORING WITH FOIL PROCEDURE
IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES
Waterproof cape, towel, foil, gloves, plastic clips, bowl/brushes, tail comb, applicator brush, lightener, record card, applicator bottle.

10. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
Do patch test
Do client consultation
Remove and store jewelry
Drape client
Shampoo, towel dry
Do strand test
PREPARATION
Perform preliminary patch test 24 hours before service. Proceed only if test is negative.
Perform client consultation.
Ask client to remove jewelry and store in a safe place.
Drape client for haircoloring service.
Shampoo and towel-dry hair.
Perform strand test; record results on client record card.

11. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
Slice hair at crown area
Brush on lightener
Fold foil
Use comb to crease
Clip foil
PROCEDURE
With a tail comb, take a slice of hair at the lower crown area of head and place a piece of foil under the slice of hair.
Holding hair taut, brush on lightener, from upper edge of foil to hair ends.
Fold foil in half until ends meet.
Fold right side of foil in halfway, using comb to crease it. Then fold left side of foil in halfway.
Clip foil upward.

12. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
Clip hair up
Continue down back center
Release the clipped up foils
Divide into 2 sections
Apply lightener
Take a 3/4" subsection in between foils. Clip this hair up and out of the way.
Continue working down back center of head until section is complete.
Once section is complete, release the clipped-up foils.
Working around head into side area, divide into two smaller sections.
Working down side, bring fine slices of hair into foil and apply lightener to hair. Clip up foil.

13. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
Move to other side
Move to top
Apply lightener
Continue to front
Process according to strand test
Move to other side of head and complete matching sections.
Move to top of head. Take a fine slice of hair off top of a large section, place on foil, and apply lightener.
Part out a larger section, and then take a fine slice from top of this section, place it on the foil, and apply lightener.
Continue toward front until last foil is placed.
Allow lightener to process according to strand test. Check foils to determine if desired lightness has been achieved.

14. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements
Remove foils, shampoo, rinse
Apply glaze
Work into hair; process
Rinse, shampoo, condition
Style as desired
Remove foils one at a time at shampoo area. Rinse hair immediately to prevent color from affecting untreated hair.
Apply haircolor glaze to hair from base to ends.
Work glaze into hair to make sure it is completely saturated. Process up to 20 minutes.
Rinse hair; shampoo and condition.
Style hair as desired.

15. Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Cleanup and Sanitation
Perform cleanup and sanitation
Rinse and disinfect
Record results
CLEAN UP
1. Perform cleanup and sanitation.
2. Rinse plastic bottles, bowls, and brushes and disinfect.
3. Record results on client record card and file it.

16. Balayage Lightener applied Subtle effects
BALAYAGE OR FREE-FORM TECHNIQUE: This procedure involves painting a lightener (usually powder off the scalp) directly onto clean, styled hair.
Lightener is applied with tint brush or tail comb from base to ends around head. See Figure
Effects are subtle and used to draw attention to hair surface. See Figure

17. Toning Nonoxidative toner Traditional semipermanent Demipermanent
TONING OVERHIGHLIGHTED AND DIMENSIONALLY COLORED HAIR
If hair is decolorized to the desired level, use of a toner may not be necessary.
If a cool tonality is desired, a toner will be required to cancel out undesirable yellow contributing pigment. It is important to consider the varying degrees of porosity and difference in pigmentation from strand to strand.
Avoid affecting untreated hair by:
Using a nonoxidative toner containing no ammonia and requiring no developer. This type of color produces no lift and is gentle on the scalp and hair.
Using traditional semipermanent color to deposit color without lift.
Using demipermanent or long-lasting semipermanent haircolor as a no-lift deposit-only color; will not cause additional lightening and is longer lasting than temporary or traditional semipermanent colors.

18. Highlighting Shampoo Tints
Used when:
Slight change desired
Hair processes rapidly
Highlight natural color in single application
HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOO TINTS: Prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo.
HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOO TINTS: Prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo.
Used when a slight change is desired.
Used when client’s hair processes very rapidly.
Highlight natural color in a single application. A patch test is required 24 hours prior to application.

19. Highlighting Shampoo Shampoo and hydrogen peroxide
Natural haircolor slightly lightened
No patch test required
HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOOS: Prepared by combining shampoo and hydrogen peroxide. Natural haircolor is slightly lightened. No patch test is required. Follow manufacturer’s directions.

20. Special Problems Gray hair Yellow discoloration
SPECIAL PROBLEMS IN HAIRCOLOR AND CORRECTIVE COLORING: Each service is unique and should be preceded by a complete client consultation. Strand tests should be used to ensure more satisfactory results. However, occasionally challenges do occur in haircolor. Let’s take a look at a few you might encounter.
GRAY HAIR: CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS
Gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough. See Figures and
YELLOW DISCOLORATION CAUSES
Smoking
Medication
Sun exposure
Some styling aids, lighteners, and haircolor removers will help remove yellow discoloration. Undesired yellow can often be overpowered by the artificial pigments deposited by violet-based colors of an equal or darker level than the yellow.

21. Special Problems Formulating for gray hair FORMULATING FOR GRAY HAIR
Level 8 or lighter may not give complete coverage of gray because of the low concentration of dye found in lighter colors.
Level 7 and darker can be used to create pastel and blond tones. Will provide better coverage.
For 80% to 100% natural gray, the blond range is generally more flattering than a darker shade. Warm or cool tones may be chosen based on the client’s skin tone, eye color, and personal preference.
When coloring salt and pepper hair to darker, color on color will make a darker color. Use a shade lighter than the naturally dark hair.

22. Presoftening Mix according to manufacturer’s directions
Apply to resistant area
Process at room temperature
Remove color
Apply desired level of color
PRESOFTENING: Gray hair can be highly resistant and requires presoftening to allow proper penetration of color. It is a double-application service. It is applied, processed, and removed. Then tint is applied.
Mix product according to manufacturer’s directions.
Apply with brush or bottle in most resistant areas first.
Process at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes.
Wipe color gently with cloth or paper towel to remove.
Apply desired level and tone of color to achieve desired results. Follow established procedures for color application.

23. Rules for Effective Color Correction
Do not panic
Determine true problem
Determine cause of problem
Develop solution
One step at a time
Never guarantee exact results
Do strand test
RULES FOR EFFECTIVE COLOR CORRECTION
Do not panic.
Determine the true problem.
Determine the cause of problem.
Develop a solution.
Take one step at a time.
Never guarantee exact results.
Always strand test for accuracy.

24. Damaged Hair Characteristics
Rough texture
Overporous condition
Brittle and dry
Susceptible to breakage
No elasticity
Spongy and matted
Color fades
DAMAGED HAIR CHARACTERISTICS
Rough texture
Overporous condition
Brittle and dry to touch
Susceptible to breakage
No elasticity
Spongy and matted when wet
Color fades or absorbs too rapidly.

25. Damaged Hair Treatments
Penetrating conditioner
Finishing rinse
Postpone further chemicals
Between service conditioning
Recommend retail products
DAMAGED HAIR TREATMENTS
Use penetrating conditioner. Purpose is to deposit protein, oils, and moisture-rich ingredients.
Normalize pH with a finishing rinse. This is done after chemical services to restore cuticle’s protective capacity.
Postpone further chemical services.
Perform between-service conditioning.
Recommend retail products for home maintenance.

26. Fillers Conditioner fillers Color fillers
FILLERS: Specialized preparations designed to help equalize porosity and deposit base color in one application. There are two types.
Conditioner fillers. Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair. Can be applied in separate procedure or immediately before color application.
Color fillers. Used to equalize porosity and deposit color in one application. No-lift deposit-only haircolor products are commonly used.

27. Color Filler Advantages
Deposits color to faded ends
Helps hair hold color
Prevents streaking
Prevents off-color results
More uniform, natural looking in a tint
More uniform when tinting hair back to natural color
COLOR FILLER ADVANTAGES
Deposits color to faded ends.
Helps hair hold color.
Prevents streaking and dull appearance.
Prevents off-color results.
Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint.
Produces more uniform color when coloring hair back to its natural color.

28. Selecting Correct Filler
Replace missing primary color
Apply directly to hair or mix with haircolor
SELECTING CORRECT COLOR FILLER
Select to replace missing primary color in the formulation. All three primaries (red, blue, and yellow) must be present for natural-looking hair color.
May be applied directly to hair or mixed with haircolor and applied to damaged ends.

29. Tips for Red Warm, coppery reds use red-orange base
Hot, fiery reds use red-violet or true red
Use no-lift deposit-only to refresh
If gray is present, add natural color
Refresh with soap cap
FADING REDS: Fading is common with color-treated red hair.
TIPS FOR REDS
Create warm, coppery reds by using a red-orange base color.
Create hot, fiery reds by using a red-violet or true red color.
After permanent color, use a no-lift deposit-only color to refresh.
If gray is present, add ½ oz to 1 oz of a natural color
Refresh reds with a soap cap to brighten haircolor.
A soap cap is equal parts of shampoo and the remaining color formula.

30. Tips for Brunettes Avoid orange, brassy tones Cover gray
Highlight deep or caramel color
TIPS FOR BRUNETTES
Avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, by using a cool blue base.
Avoid brassy tones by not lightening more than two levels above the natural color.
Add 1 oz of a natural color to cover gray in brunette.
Natural highlights in brunette should be deep or caramel color.

31. Tips for Blonds Brown to blond Covering gray hair Double process
High-lift blonds
Lowlights
TIPS FOR BLONDS
When lightening brown to blond, remember there may be underlying unwanted warm tones.
When covering gray hair with a blond color use a level 7 or darker.
Double processing is best way to get light pale blond.
If high-lift blond, lift only five levels, the results can be too warm or brassy.
If highlights become too blond, lowlights can be foiled into hair for a more natural color.

32. Common Haircolor Solutions
Green cast
Overall haircolor too light
Overall haircolor too dark
Restoring blond to natural color
COMMON HAIRCOLOR SOLUTIONS
Green cast. If hair has a buildup of minerals, purify the hair with a product designed to remove the buildup. Apply a no-lift deposit-only color to neutralize any unwanted color.
Overall haircolor is too light. Correct by applying a no lift deposit only color that is one to two levels darker than the previous formula.
Overall color is too dark. Determine how much color needs to be removed. Use haircolor remover.
Restoring blond to natural color. Soften new growth with level 6 violet base and 20 volume.
Apply to scalp area and process; rinse.
Apply no-lift deposit-only glaze with 1 oz of level 8 light natural blond and 1 oz of level 9 red-orange. Do not apply to scalp area. Process 20 minutes, rinse, and towel-dry.
Mix no-lift deposit-only glaze with 2 oz of a level 6 natural blond; apply color from scalp to ends; process up to 20 minutes, checking every 5 minutes.
Reevaluate on next visit.

33. Haircolor Safety Precautions
Administer patch test
Do not apply if abrasions are present
Do not apply over metallic tint
Do not brush hair before service
Read and follow manufacturer’s directions
HAIRCOLORING SAFETY: There are several factors and procedures you should keep in mind when providing haircoloring services that will help ensure quality results and your client’s safety.
PRECAUTIONS
Administer patch test. At least 24 hours before aniline derivative tint; only proceed if negative.
Do not apply if abrasions are present.
Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
Do not brush hair before service.
Read and follow all manufacturer’s directions.

34. Haircolor Safety Precautions
Sanitize tools and implements
Drape properly
Do strand test
Use bottle or bowl for mixing
Do not mix until ready to use; discard left over tint
Use sanitized applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels.
Drape properly.
Perform strand test. This will alert you for correct color, breakage, and/or discoloration.
Use bottle or bowl for mixing tint. Use either glass or plastic bowl.
Do not mix until ready to use. Discard leftover tint.

35. Haircolor Safety Precautions
Wear protective gloves
Don’t let color get in eyes
Do not overlap during retouch
Use mild shampoo
Wash hands
Wear protective gloves.
Don’t let color get in eyes.
Do not overlap during retouch.
Use mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip color.
Always wash hands before and after serving each client.

36. Summary and Review
What are the 3 most commonly used methods for highlighting?
What are fillers, and for what purpose are they used?
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
The world of professional haircolor offers both unlimited challenges and significant financial returns to the professional cosmetologist. Once you’ve mastered the theory and law of color as well as all the procedures and techniques used in haircoloring, you may choose to specialize as a colorist. Remember that all color begins with three primary colors: red, yellow, and blue. When any two primaries are mixed equally, a secondary color is created. All three primaries must be present to create brown. Violet is created from mixing red and blue; green is created from mixing yellow and blue; and orange is created by mixing red and yellow.
There are several categories of haircolor including temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent. As a professional cosmetologist, you will be able to analyze the level of natural haircolor as well as the level of the color desired. As in all professional cosmetological services, a thorough hair and scalp analysis must be completed in addition to a thorough client consultation prior to any haircolor service. When using any color that is aniline derivative, a patch test must be complete at least 24 hours prior to the service. All consultation and test results are recorded on the client record card. Results of each color service are also maintained on file on the client’s record card. Proper draping is essential to protect the client’s skin and clothing. Frequent strand testing is recommended to ensure quality results.
In today’s lesson we learned about the special effects and procedures used for highlighting hair. In special effects as well as corrective hair color procedures, it’s important to remember such factors as porosity, foundation color, percentage and location of unpigmented hair, condition of hair, and desired results.
Let’s review.
What are three most commonly used methods for highlighting?
ANSWER: The methods are cap, foil, and balayage, or free-form techniques.
What are fillers, and for what purpose are they used?
ANSWER: Fillers are preparations designed to help equalize porosity and deposit a base color in one application. Conditioner fillers are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair. Color fillers are used when there is doubt as to whether the color result will be an even shade.

37. Summary and Review
List at least 10 safety precautions to follow during haircolor process
List at least 10 safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process.
ANSWER:
Give a patch test 24 hours before any application of aniline derivative. Apply a tint only if the patch test is negative.
Do not apply tint if abrasions are present.
Do not apply tint if a metallic or compound tint is present.
Do not brush the hair before applying color.
Always read and follow all of the manufacturer’s directions.
Use sanitized applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels.
Protect your client’s clothing with proper draping.
Perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or discoloration.
Use an applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing the tint.
Do not mix tint before you are ready to use it; discard leftover tint.
Wear gloves to protect your hands.
Do not permit the color to come in contact with the client’s eyes.
Do not overlap during a tint retouch.
Use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip the color.
Always wash hands before and after serving a client.

38. another unit of study toward program completion
Congratulations!
You’ve just completed
another unit of study toward program completion