1. ©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved
Cosmetology: Layered and Men’s Clipper Cutting
Milady
Standard
Cosmetology
©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved

2. “Of all the attitudes we can acquire, surely the attitude of gratitude is the most important and by far the most life-changing”
Zig Ziglar

3. Objectives
Demonstrate mastery of the uniform layered (90-degree) haircut
Demonstrate mastery of the long layers (180 degree) haircut
Understand men’s clipper cutting
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
The third basic haircut is the layered haircut created with uniform layers. All the hair is elevated to 90 degrees and cut at the same length. Your guide for this haircut is an interior traveling guideline. An interior guideline is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter. The resulting shape will appear soft and rounded, with no built-up weight or corners. The perimeter of the hair will fall softly, because of the vertical sections on the interior that reduce weight.
In today’s lesson we will go over the procedure for completing a precision uniform layer haircut.

4. Haircutting Materials
Towels
Shampoo cape
Shampoo and conditioner
Cutting cape
Wide-tooth comb
Cutting and styling comb
4 Sectioning clips
Haircutting shears
Water spray bottle
Neck strip
IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS
Towels
Shampoo cape
Shampoo and conditioner
Cutting cape
Wide-tooth comb
Cutting or styling comb
Four sectioning clips
Haircutting shears
Water spray bottle
Neck strip

5. Haircutting Preparation
Client consultation and hair analysis
Drape for shampooing
Shampoo and condition hair
Towel-dry hair
Escort client back to chair
Drape for haircut
PREPARATION
Client consultation and hair analysis.
Drape for shampooing.
Shampoo and condition hair, if conditioner is needed.
Towel-dry hair.
Escort client back to chair and drape for haircut.

6. Tips for Layered Haircuts
Cut interior first
Don’t cut thin hair too short
Don’t cut coarse hair shorter than 3”
Don’t cut top layers too short
Slide cut to connect top to lengths
TIPS FOR LAYERED HAIRCUTS
Cut the interior first. Then go back to the perimeter edges and cut stronger lines, cut out around the ears, or texturize where needed.
Don’t cut thin hair too short. It can expose the scalp.
Don’t cut coarse hair shorter than 3 inches. Coarse hair needs length to hold it down.
Don’t cut top layers too short. When working on longer layered shapes, in which you want to maintain thickness at the bottom, keep top sections longer. Cutting top layers too short will take too much hair away from the rest of the haircut, and may leave you with a collapsed shape that is stringy at the bottom.
Use slide cutting to connect top sections to the lengths. If client has long hair past the shoulder blades, this will maintain maximum length and weight at the perimeter of the haircut.

7. Uniform Layers Haircut

8. Uniform Layers Procedure
Section guideline
Establish guideline
Cut guide section
PROCEDURE: NOTE: Hand out LP 14.3, H - 1 and ask students to follow along on the procedure sheet as you go through the steps. Then ask them to put down the handout while you demonstrate the procedure. After the demonstration, have students return the demonstration.
The layered haircut is created with UNIFORM LAYERS. All the hair is elevated to 90 degrees and cut at the same length. Your guide for this haircut is an interior traveling guideline. An interior guideline is inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter. The resulting shape will appear soft and rounded with no built-up weight or corners. The perimeter of the hair will fall softly, because of the vertical sections on the interior that reduce weight.
Section guideline. To create the guideline, take two partings ½" apart, creating a section that runs from the front hairline to the bottom of the nape. Comb all other hair out of the way.
Establish guideline. Beginning at the crown, comb the section straight out from the head, keeping your fingers parallel to the head form, and cut to the desired length. Continue working forward to the front hairline, making sure to stand to the side of the client.
Cut guide section. Continue cutting the guideline from the crown to the nape, rounding off any corners as you go along and making sure that your fingers are parallel to the head form.

9. Uniform Layers Procedure
Separate sides from back
Right side
Cut to back of ear
Cross-check back area
Separate sides from back. To maintain control and consistency while working through the haircut, separate the sides from the back by parting the hair from the apex to the back of the ear. Work through the back areas first. The parting pattern will be wedge-shaped, where each section begins at the same point in the crown and is slightly wider at the bottom of the nape
Right side. Work through the right side first. Take a vertical parting that begins at the crown and connects with the guideline, creating a vertical section that ends at the hairline. Keep the sections small to maintain control.
Beginning at the crown section that ends at the hairline. Keep the sections small to maintain control. Beginning at the crown and using the previously cut guideline, comb the new section to the guide, and elevate the hair straight out from the head, with no overdirection. Cut the line by keeping your fingers parallel to the head and matching the guide, working from top to bottom.
Cut to back of ear. Continue working with a traveling guideline to the back of the ear. Repeat on the left side. When working on the left side of the back, shift your body positions so that the tips of your shears are pointing down and the fingers holding the section are pointing up. By shifting your body position you will be able to control the section. In essence you are reversing the body position you used when you cut the right side of the back.
Cross-check back area. Take horizontal sections and elevate the hair at 90 degrees from the head. As you are checking, you should see a line that runs parallel to the shape of the head.

10. Uniform Layers Procedure
Section top
Cut top
Cross-check top
Move to right side
Cross-check side sections
Comb hair down
Section top. Section off the top area by taking a parting that begins at the recession area and ends at the crown, just above the parietal ridge on both sides. Clip the sides out of the way.
Cut top. Cut the top area using vertical partings. Using the previously cut center section as a guideline, connect to the crown, holding each section straight up at 90 degrees from the head form. Make sure you do not overdirect the hair.
Cross-check top. Use horizontal partings and elevate the hair 90 degrees from the head form.
Move to the right side. Work from the back of the ear toward the face, using vertical sections, and connect to the previous section at the back of the ear and the top. Comb the hair straight out from the head form at 90 degrees, removing any corners as you go. Repeat on the left side, shifting body position so that the tips of your shears are pointing down and the fingers holding the section are pointing up.
Cross-check side sections. Use horizontal partings and comb the hair straight out at 90 degrees.
Comb hair down. Notice the soft perimeter and rounded head shape.

11. Finished Uniform Layer Haircut

12. Long Layered Haircut Gather haircutting supplies
Perform standard haircutting preparation
A fourth basic haircut is the long layered haircut. Here you will be using increased layering, which features a layered effect with progressively longer layers. Your guide for the haircut is an interior guide, beginning at the top of the head. All the remaining hair will be elevated up (180 degrees) to match the guide. This technique gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts. The resulting shape will have shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter. Let’s take a look again at Figure a found in your textbook which depicts a long layered haircut.

13. Long Layers Haircut Procedure
Part hair in 5 sections
Begin at crown with 2” subsections
Work to front of top section
Continue cutting
Do left front section
PROCEDURE: NOTE: Hand out LP 14.2, H - 2 and ask students to follow along on the procedure sheet as you go through the steps. Then ask them to put down the handout while you demonstrate the procedure. After the demonstration, have students return the demonstration.
Part the hair into five cutting sections.
Begin at top of the crown by taking a 2" subsection across the head. Comb straight up from the head form and cut straight across.
Work to the front of the top section by taking a second 2" subsection. Direct the first subsection (guideline) to the second one and cut to the same length.
Continue, using the previously cut subsection as your guideline to cut a new 2" subsection throughout the top section.
On the left front section, using 2" horizontal subsections, comb the hair straight up and match to the previously cut hair (guideline) in the top section. Continue working down the side, using 2" subsections until the hair no longer reaches the guide.

14. Long Layers Haircut Procedure
Repeat on right side
Do left rear section
Work from top to bottom
Repeat on the right side.
At the top of the left rear section, using 2" horizontal subsections, comb the hair straight up from the head form, matching the length to the top section (guideline) and cut straight across.
Continue, using 2" horizontal subsections and working from top to bottom until the hair no longer reaches the guideline.
Repeat on the right side until the hair has all been cut or no longer reaches the guideline.

15. Finished Long Layered Cut

16. Clipper Uses Remove hair completely, without guards
Remove hair from 1/8” to 1” with guards
Taper hairlines
CLIPPERS, EDGERS, AND TRIMMERS
CLIPPERS: Electric devices that cut hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth. The blade action is faster than the eye can see. Mainly used for shorter haircuts. Can be used to create tapers.
CLIPPER USES
To remove hair completely. Without length guard. Useful for cleaning up necklines and around ears.
To taper hairlines from short lengths into longer lengths without length guard. Used in the clipper-over-comb technique.
With length guards. These are attachments that fit over the blade plate and vary in size from 1/8 inch to 1 inch.

17. Tools for Clipper Cutting
Clippers
Length guard attachments
Haircutting shears
Thinning shears
Combs
TOOLS FOR CLIPPER CUTTING
Clippers. Come in different sizes and shapes. Used with or without attachments. Edgers, also called trimmers, are usually cordless and mainly used to clean necklines and around ears. Clean after each use with a clipper brush. Disinfect the detachable blade and heel after each use as well. Follow the manufacturer’s directions.
Length guard attachments. Allow you to cut all the hair evenly to that exact length. They range from 1.8 inch to 1 inch wide and can be used in different combinations to create different lengths.
Haircutting shears. Used mainly for removing length and detailing the haircut.
Thinning shears. Called blending or tapering shears. Great for removing excess bulk and for blending one area with another.
Combs. In regular cutting, the wider-spaced teeth are geared for combing and cutting, while finger-spaced teeth are used for detailing as well as shears-over-comb and clipper-over-comb techniques. Classic barbering comb is often used at nape, sides, and around ears. Allows you to cut hair very short and close to head. The wide-toothed comb is used when cutting thicker and longer lengths, where detailing is not required.

18. Clipper-Over-Comb Technique
Stand in front of section
Place comb
Hold comb stationary
Stop to cut section
CLIPPER-OVER-COMB TECHNIQUE
Stand directly in front of section. Area you are cutting should be at eye level.
Comb positioning. Place comb, teeth first, into hairline, and turn comb so that teeth are angled slightly away from head. Always work against growth patterns to ensure lifting hair away from the head and cutting evenly.
Hold comb stationary. Cut length against comb, moving clippers from right to left. (If left-handed, you will move clippers left to right.)
Stop to cut section. Movements should be fluid. After cutting, remove comb from hair and begin motion again, using previously cut section as guide. Continue working up head toward weight or length.

19. Cutting with Attachments
Start with ¼” at nape and sides
Switch to 2” in parietal area
CLIPPER CUTTING WITH ATTACHMENTS: Using length guard is a quick and easy way to create short haircuts. Use 1/4 inch in nape and sides. Switch to 2 inch guide as you reach the parietal area. This produces more length in the parietal area and a more square shape.

20. Tips for Clipper Cutting
Work against natural growth pattern
Work with small sections
Comb angle determines cutting angle
TIPS FOR CLIPPER CUTTING
Work against natural growth pattern.
Work with small sections. No more than 3 inches wide.
Angle of comb determines the cutting angle when using the clipper-over-comb technique.

21. Edgers and Trimmers Edgers around ears Edgers at neckline
EDGERS AND TRIMMERS: These are smaller sized clippers.
Edgers around ears. When cutting a clean line around ears, use both hands to hold the edger sideways. Using just the outer edge on the skin, arc the edger up and around the ear. As you reach the area behind the ear, use the comb to hold the hair in place and continue with the arcing motion.
Edgers at neckline. Clean up hair on the neck that grows below the design line. Edgers also help create more defined lines at the perimeter.
TRIMMING FACIAL HAIR: Clippers and edgers can be used to trim beards and mustaches as well. The technique is similar to shears/clippers-over-comb. When removing length, use comb to control the hair and always cut against the comb. You can also use the length guard attachments to trim a beard to the desired length. Facial hair is very coarse and may dull your haircutting shears.
Ear hair. Check if client has excess hair in the ears and ask if he’d like it removed. If so, carefully snip away the hair with the shears using extreme caution.

22. Men’s Basic Clipper Cut
Horseshoe parting
Cut nape area
MEN’S BASIC CLIPPER CUT: NOTE: Hand out LP 14.2, H - 3 and have students follow along on the procedure sheet as you go through the steps. When you begin your practical demonstration, ask the students to put down the handout because following along during the demonstration will be distracting. Upon completion of the demonstration, have the students return the demonstration by performing the cut either on a mannequin or a model.
PROCEDURE
Horseshoe parting. Make a horseshoe parting about 2" below the apex of the head, beginning and ending at the front hairline. Comb the hair above the part forward.
Cut nape area. Starting in nape area, place the haircutting comb against scalp, teeth up. Angle comb against scalp from zero to 45 degrees, allowing for the natural contour of the head. Cut the hair that extends through the teeth of the comb.

23. Men’s Basic Clipper Cut
Cut back
Blend lengths
Cut sides
Establish crown guide
Cut back. Repeat step 2 as you move up back of head. Blend lengths over the curve of the head by cross-cutting horizontally, from side to side. Shape back center area first, from nape to parietal ridge. Then, still using the clipper-over-comb technique, cut both sides of the back, from ear to ear.
Blend lengths. Carefully blend lengths over the curve of the head by cross-cutting.
Cut sides. Using a small number attachment on the clipper, cut up each side from the sideburn to the parietal ridge. The hair lengths will be very close to the scalp. If client wants longer sides, the weight on the top should not overpower the sides; it should blend. If sides are very short, the top should be cut shorter to blend.
Establish crown guide. Measure distance between eyebrows and natural hairline to establish an appropriate guideline for length in crown area.

24. Men’s Basic Clipper Cut
Cut guide
Shape ear area
Cut guide. Cut a narrow guideline at crown end of horseshoe parting. Determine the length by the forehead measurement. Beginning at crown end, cut top area with clipper to the exact length of initial crown guideline. As you move toward forehead, pull hair back toward guideline in order to increase length at forehead.
Shape ear area. Using clipper and attachment, shorten and shape hair around ears and sideburns. Continue to cut hair until shape of head and length of hair are in harmony. To blend or outline the perimeter of haircut, you may use a clipper or trimmer.

25. Finished Clipper Cut

26. Cleanup and Sanitation
Disinfect implements
Sanitize workstation
Sanitize hands
CLEANUP AND SANITATION
Disinfect implements. Disinfect all shears, combs, and brushes used during the haircut by immersing in a hospital-level disinfectant.
Sanitize workstation. Make sure it is clean and neat for your next client.
Sanitize hands. Wash your hands with soap and warm water.

27. Summary and Review Describe the shears-over-comb technique
Haircutting is a skill requiring imagination and many hours of practice. You must remember that once something is cut off, you cannot put it back — you must wait until it grows. Therefore, it is important that you begin slowly by working on mannequins to build your confidence. Practice holding the various cutting implements until you are comfortable. Begin observing people and pictures and try to visualize in your mind’s eye what type of elevation was used to create the style. Drills and timed repetitions will be essential to your skills development. Take pride in your work and shoot for perfection. Once your techniques and skills have achieved a high level of quality, you will begin to work on your speed.
As you continue in your training, you will learn the importance of taking into consideration the client’s head and face shape and features as well as his/her lifestyle and personal choices when selecting a haircut.
Let’s review.
Describe the shears-over-comb technique.
ANSWER: Hold the hair in place with the comb while you use the tips of the shears to remove the lengths. It is used to create very short tapers and allows you to cut from an extremely short length to longer lengths. In most cases, you start at the hairline and/or nape and work your way up to the longer lengths.

28. Summary and Review
Name 3 different texturizing techniques and the effects they create
Name three different texturizing techniques and the effects they create.
ANSWER: Point-cutting—a technique performed on the ends of the hair using the tips, or points of the shears. You are, in essence, creating “points” in the hair.
Notching — another version of point-cutting. It is more aggressive and creates a chunkier effect than point-cutting. It is done toward the ends. Can be accomplished on both wet and dry hair.
Free-hand notching — uses the tips of shears and simply snips out pieces of hair at random intervals.
Slithering or effilating — the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears; accomplished with a sliding movement of the shears, with the blade kept partially opened.
Slicing — a technique that removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair.
Carving — a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair.
Carving at the ends — adds texture and separation to the perimeter of a haircut.

29. Summary and Review
Explain disinfection and sanitation procedures that must be followed when performing a haircut
•Explain disinfection and sanitation procedures that must be followed when performing a haircut.
ANSWER:
Wash hands with soap and water before and after each service.
Sweep up cut hair and dispose of properly before proceeding with service.
Drape client properly.
Sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut. Place in disinfectant solution or by other approved methods.
Replace blade in razor before use with each client. Discard blades in puncture-proof container.
Maintain shears properly. Lubricate with a few drops of oil and wipe with a chamois or dry cloth regularly.
Sanitize workstation after each haircutting service.

30. one unit of study toward
Congratulations!
You’ve just completed
one unit of study toward
program completion!