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Published byMartha Perry Modified over 9 years ago
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HIGH TUNNEL/COLD FRAME GARDENING Extending the growing season Kevin Heaton Utah State University Extension Kane and Garfield Counties...if it can be done in Panguitch... it will work anywhere!!!!
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Why High Tunnel/Cold Frame Gardening Available Tunnel Options Tunnel Research and Demonstrations
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Why High Tunnel/Cold Frame Gardening Utah’s cool, short growing seasons Earliness offers price premiums Improved climate management Season extension expands production window Expanded opportunities for different crops
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Some of the benefits Can cost as little as $0.50 per square foot Covered with a single layer of plastic Tall enough to walk-in Size: 14-30 feet wide 30-96 feet long Grow in ground beds Erected on skids Passively ventilated Generally not heated Tunnels in tunnels give more protection Production during fall, winter, early spring Shaded in summer Protect plants from wind and rain
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How does it work? The original “greenhouse effect”
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Tunnel Options Floating Row Covers Low Tunnels High Tunnels –Hoop House –High Sided –Double Skinned
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High Tunnels
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Planning and Construction Good sunlight Wind Breaks –Height, Density, Orientation, Length Avoid shadows –E-W = 20 ft –N-S= 5 ft Water source Site Selection Wind Directions Soil Issues Water Quality Access to other operations and buildings
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Rib, Hoop, Arch, Bow End Wall Hip Board Side Wall Baseboard Purlin, Ridgepole
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Construction Issues Structural framing for support Type/shape influences strength –Metal/PVC ribs –Spacing of ribs Covering Materials –Plastic –Shade cloth –Other End walls - Access and Ventilation Removable sections in summer Fixed/roll-up walls Fixed walls – winter Roll-up walls - Vent
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Tomatoes – Aug 4, 2005 Squash – July 6, 2005
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Winter Greens - USU
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Potential Issues Snow Loads
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Wind Damage - Kansas
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Wind Damage--Logan
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Panguitch Cold Frame Demonstration
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The Plan Planted Feb 20, 2006 and Mar 4, 2006 –Lettuce, Mesclun, Turnips, Peas, Carrots, Broccoli and Cabbage. –Twelve 55 gallon barrels filled with water –First harvest (thinning): March 27 Plant May 15-20 –Warm Season Crops Plant Oct 1-15 –Cool Season Crops
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Average Temperatures Average Minimum –Outside 11 ° F –Inside 24 ° F –Difference 13 ° F Average Maximum –Outside 63 ° F –Inside 98 ° F –Difference 36 ° F –Highest Maximum Inside 120 ° F
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At what temperature do plants freeze? Cool Season “Very Hardy” –Peas, Cabbage, Broccoli, Onions, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips and Spinach –Germination 35-40° F, Survive 20 ° F Cool Season “Semi Hardy” –Beets, Carrots, Cauliflower, Parsley, Potatoes, and Swiss Chard –Germination 40-45 ° F, Survive 25 ° F
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At what temperature do plants freeze? (cont.) Warm Season “Tender” –Beans, Celery, Corn, Cucumbers, and Summer Squash –Germination 50-55 ° F, Survive 28-32 ° F Warm Season “Very Tender” –Cantaloupe, Egg Plant, Pepper, Pumpkin, Winter Squash, Tomato, and Watermelon –Germination 60 ° F, Survives 32 ° F
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Temperature Data – Lowest Difference DateMin-OutMin-InDifference Mar 1517.219.11.9 Mar 2628324 Feb 21-5.14.1 Feb 2256 Mar 426.833.66.8
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Temperature Data – Lowest indoor DateMin-OutMin-InDifference Mar 13-14.11529.1 Mar 14-81624 Mar 1517.219.11.9 Mar 164.52217.5 Mar 2312.222.610.4
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Mar 13 – Min Temp 15 ° F
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March 28, 2006
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April 5, 2006
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Warm Season Plants 2006
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2007 Planted January 27, 2007 –Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, Peas, Carrots and Cilantro –First harvest: March 18, 2007 Planted Feb 17, 2007 –Radish, Turnips, Peas, Lettuce, Cilantro and Broccoli May 15-20 –Warm Season Crops Plant September 1st –Cool Season Crops
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Soil Temp Min/Max
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Soil vs Water Temperatures
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Air Temperature
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March 27, 2007
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March 29, 2009
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2013
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Spinach--Planted 12/24/13 Planted inside the 2 nd house Planted inside the 3 rd house w/frost blanket
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Carrots – Planted 12/24/13 Planted inside the 2 nd house Planted inside the 3rd house w/frost blanket
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The end!!!
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