1. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Data, Information and Tools for Effective Coastal Erosion Management James Sutherland HR Wallingford

2. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Data, Information and Tools for Effective Coastal Erosion Management We live in a data-rich age –If you can afford it There are many ways of collecting lots of data –From megabytes to terabytes Increased volumes of data do not necessarily help coastal management –Drowning in numbers

3. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Data, Information and Tools for Effective Coastal Erosion Management Purpose of this presentation: Review beach monitoring methods Review numerical modelling tools –Not necessarily useful for management Review data handling/display tools Explain role of coastal state indicators Provide monitoring guidance

4. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Monitoring methods Point measurements –Tell-tail scour monitor

5. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Monitoring methods Cross-shore profiles –Theodolite,Total station, –DGPS, –CRAB, WESP, –laser scanner, –Argus or other camera system, –X-band radar.

6. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Monitoring methods Map tidelines, Ortho-rectified aerial or satellite photos, Topographic lidar Bathymetric lidar Synthetic aperture radar –(side-looking airborne radar)

7. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Data management and display Modern systems capable of handling huge volumes of data through the data life-cycle Increasing importance of meta-data and international standards Measure once, use often Central data stores Use of GIS

8. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Numerical Models for Erosion Management

9. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Tools for Erosion Management Historical trend analysis –Often least-squares linear trend; –More sophisticated methods require more data of better quality –Prediction relies on continuation of historic trend

10. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Numerical Models for Erosion Management One-line models –Simple but robust –Used to model decades of shoreline positions Coastal profile models –Cross-shore erosion under storms –Poor at modelling beach recovery after storms –Used to model days to weeks

11. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Numerical Models for Erosion Management Coastal area models –Flows + waves + sediment transport + morphology –Model areas are 10 2 to 10 4 km 2 –Model simulates days to weeks –Extension to longer timescales through simplification

12. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Numerical Models for Erosion Management System models of morphology –SCAPE and ASMITA –Model simplified interactions between elements; –Simulations of 10 to 10 3 years –Limited spatial resolution Systems models of flooding –RASP and PAMS in UK, VNK in NL

13. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management COAST3D question How can we use models and data to assist coastal management? Most detailed process models do not answer questions at the time and space scales that are of interest to coastal managers One approach is to use Coastal State Indicators

14. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Coastal State Indicators “Coastal State Indicators for Coastal Erosion” –Tuesday, Session 18 ‘Coastal Erosion Indicators’, 16:30 – 16:45, Europa Auditorium

15. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Coastal State Indicators Coastal State Indicators are a “reduced set of parameters that can simply, adequately and quantitatively describe the dynamic-state and evolutionary trends of a coastal system.” –Jiménez and van Koningsveld, 2002 Indicators used in implementing a policy

16. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Frame of Reference

17. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Frame of Reference

18. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Coastal State Indicators Derived from analysis of system –Understanding state of system –Given a policy to implement –Chosen a means to implement the policy –Require thresholds –Adaptive management

19. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Coastal State Indicators

20. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Coastal State Indicators Dune strength, Barrier width, Backshore width, dune zone width, dune zone height Total barrier volume Momentary coastline, Beach width, Barrier crest position, Shoreline position, Coastal foundation, Shoreface volume, coastal slope

21. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Coastal State Indicators Are being regularly used at three pilot sites; Are appropriate for the users; Not just data –Require a policy –Require a threshold

22. Concepts and Science for Coastal Erosion Management Monitoring guidance Monitor for a purpose: –Understand system –Derive coastal state indicators –Measure coastal state indicators Different stages may require different data Establish ground controls and datum Set standards