1. HAIRCUTTING 1 * 2 * 3 Techniques * Shapes * Execution
Haircutting when done properly is an art form that can transform your guests’ hair into a masterpiece of design. You can express your creativity and individuality through your work as no two guests are alike. We will be covering all variables of haircutting, from execution, techniques, tools shapes & body positioning. With practice and focus you can become a master in the art of haircutting.

2. Terminology Front Perimeter - Front hairline
Back Perimeter - Back hairline
Side Perimeter - Side hairline
Crown - Area at the top of the head
Nape - Area in the lower back of the head
Parietal Ridge - Forms the sides and the top of the head, the ridge is the area at the top of the bone
Recession - Area on the side of the hairline that recedes towards the back
Elevation - Hair lifted off of the base (up or down)
Overdirection - any section of the hair that is moved horizontally or vertically away from its original base
Weight - the heaviest part of the hair cut. Weight creates shape or form in the hair cut.
Sections - Divisions of a hair made before cutting
Subsections - divides the sections into manageable amount of hair for the purpose of control
Partings - the line used to establish a section 2

3. Women’s Haircutting Techniques
Blunt/One Length
Heaviest Form (What)
Elevation: 0 Degrees (How)
PURPOSE: Build/Create Strong Perimeter Lines (Why)
Lines Used to Create: Diagonal, Horizontal
Graduation
Builds Weight (What)
Elevation: 1 – 89 Degrees (How)
PURPOSE: Used to Build Foundation Within a Haircut (Why)
Lines Used to Create: Diagonal, Horizontal, Vertical
***Note: Graduation is primarily placed occipital bone down; but can move up the head.
Layers
Removes Weight (What)
Elevation: 90 – 180 Degrees (How)
PURPOSE: Creates Movement
All 3 of your basic haircutting techniques are achieved through ELEVATION!!!!!!!
Mastering your basics while in school should be your main focus. By mastering these skills you will be able to move onto advanced haircutting techniques. MASTERING YOUR BASICS, WHERE TO PLACE THEM & WHY IS KEY.

4. BLUNT HAIRCUT
Blunt lines included in this style were utilized in the exterior and the fringe.

5. GRADUATED HAIRCUT
This style has a visual build up of weight (graduation) in Panels 1 & 2. Length is introduced into Panel 2 and then Panel 3. The graduation placed in Panel 1 is “supporting” the rest of the haircut to give it a stacked look.

6. LAYERED HAIRCUT
Layers were placed in this cut to create movement.

7. R * E * V * I * E * W “What” it does…. “Why” do we do it?
Blunt Technique – Will produce the heaviest form.
Graduated Technique – Will produce a visual build up of weight.
Layered Technique – Will remove weight.
“Why” do we do it?
Blunt Technique – To Build Strong Exterior/Interior Lines
Graduated Technique – To Build a Foundation in your Haircut
Layered Technique – To create movement.

8. PANELS
PANELS by definition are used for control and design in haircutting. In school you learn how to “Section & Sub-Section” hair in order to keep the hair in an orderly fashion.
Panels will be utilized in advanced haircutting and will teach you the art of creativity and how to build a haircut with “Foundation/Shape/Design”
There are primarily 3 Panels to every haircut; however some may have more than 3 depending on the complexity of the haircut.
PANEL 1 – The “Outline” of your haircut. This is where your perimeter is created. You can utilize all cutting techniques in this Panel.
PANEL 2 – The “Shape” of your haircut. This is where your shape and the majority of your weight is placed in the haircut. You use this panel to flatten or enhance your shape. All techniques are utilized in this Panel.
PANEL 3 – The “Design/Free Range” of your haircut. This is the creative part of your haircut comes from. Connection or Disconnection can occur and techniques vary. Primarily the Blunt and Layered techniques are used in this Panel.

9. SHAPES
Along with every haircutting there is a shape. Some examples are:
Square
Round
Concave
Asymmetrical
Convex

10. SQUARE Shapes
Square Exterior/Interior
Square Exterior

11. ROUND Shapes Short Round Layers Long Round Layers
Short Round Layers – Notice how the haircut follows the round of the head.
Long Round Layers – Layers fall evenly and are flowing the same throughout the head. Basically created for movement.
Long Round Layers

12. CONCAVE Shapes Concave Graduation Concave One Length
Concave shapes preserve length in the nape area in order to connect hair that becomes longer as you progress up the head shape.
Concave One Length

13. ASYMMETRICAL Shapes Long Blunt Short Graduated
Asymmetrical shapes are longer on one side. This imbalance can be placed in the back and the front or just in the front per your design objective.
Short Graduated

14. CONVEX Shapes
Convex shapes take the length out of the nape area and are achieved through either Vertical or Diagonal Graduated techniques.

15. “HOW” Do You Do It? MASTER HAIRCUTTING EXECUTE TECHNIQUES & SHAPES
Achieved By: Elevation Overdirection Design Lines Partings

16. HOW TO EXAMPLES*********
Round Long Layers
Technique: Layers
Shape: Round
Achieved Thru: Pie Sections / Follow Round of Head
Concave Layers
Shape: Concave
Achieved Thru: Overdirection / Elevation 180
Long Layers
Shape: Square
Achieved Thru: Elevation 180

17. NOW YOU DO IT!!!!!!
For the haircuts listed below list the technique & shape that would be executed to achieve this look:
Inverted Bob

18. Continue...
Classic Bob 18

19. Continue...
Pixie Cut 19

20. Continue...
Wedge 20

21. ANSWERS Inverted Bob Classic Bob Pixie Cut Wedge
Technique: Graduation/Layers
Shape: Concave Achieved Through Diagonal Lines
Classic Bob
Technique: Blunt
Shape: Square Achieved Through Horizontal Lines
Pixie Cut
Technique: Layers
Shape: Round Achieved Through Following Round of Head
Wedge
Technique: Graduation
Shape: Convex Achieved Through Diagonal Partings

22. TOOLS & BODY POSITION
There are various tools that are used during haircutting, in which each perform a different function:
Shear – Creates strong shapes, clean lines & facets.
Razor – Softer effects that destructs shapes and creates texture.
Thinning Shears – Used to blend lines, create texture & remove weight.
Clippers – Used to create close tapers and haircuts that are closer to the head.
Edgers – Used to clean up hairlines and detail work.
Cutting Comb – Teeth spacing varies with density of hair. Proper selection is essential for adequate tension.

23. HAIR DESIGN LINES Horizontal Vertical Diagonal Curved Heaviest Form
Creates Square Shapes
Vertical
Lightest Form
Used for Graduated & Layered Techniques
Diagonal
Used for Blending
Creates Concave & Asymmetrical Shapes
Curved
Used to Create Circular & Parabolic Shapes
Design Lines are required in order to achieve shapes in haircutting. They are a vital part of be a successful stylist and must be properly executed with the haircutting techniques.

24. PARADIGM SHIFT
A paradigm shift has occurred here today and you will begin your journey to become a “master” stylist……
Focus & Master The Basic Techniques
Practice & Apply Principles At School
Become a Master Stylist