1. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. The Complete Spa Book for Massage Therapists AROMATHERAPY LESSON L-11.0

2. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. SPA THOUGHT “The nose is a fantastically sensitive instrument, and the world of essential oils is a fantastically rich one to explore.” Nick James, owner Body Bliss

3. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. AROMATHERAPY The use of essential oils processed from flowers, peel of fruits, leaves, grasses, needles, stems, wood, and roots through topical application, inhalation, and, rarely, ingestion to affect mood and improve health, beauty, and well-being

4. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. DEVELOPMENT OF AROMATHERAPY Ancient Chinese, Persians, and Indians used aromatic plants. Ancient Egyptians incorporated plant extracts (cedar) to embalm mummies. Egyptians used oils as perfumes.

5. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. KEY FIGURES IN AROMATHERAPY Dioscorides Avicenna Paracelsus René-Maurice Gattefossé Jean Valnet Madame Marguerite Maury Robert B. Tisserand

6. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. DIOSCORIDES First-century Greek –physician –pharmacologist –botanist Five-volume work, De Materia Medica –described medicinal uses of 500 plants –remained authoritative herb book for centuries

7. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. AVICENNA 11th-century Persian –physician –scholar –philosopher Invented an advanced distillation method –incorporated coiled pipe –allowed steam to cool more efficiently

8. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. PARACELSUS Medieval physician and alchemist Used plants as medicine Coined term “essence” to describe vital elements in nature Among first to say illness result of outside agents rather than imbalance of “humors”

9. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. RENÉ-MAURICE GATTEFOSSÉ Early 20th-century French chemist Focused on perfumery at first Had an accident in lab –changed focus to healing properties of herbs Coined the term “aromatherapy” in 1928 1937 book, Gattefossé’s Aromatherapy

10. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. JEAN VALNET Frenchman Used essential oils to treat injured soldiers during World War II Wrote The Practice of Aromatherapy

11. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. MADAME MARGUERITE MAURY Austrian biochemist Prescribed essential oils as remedies First to suggest essential oils for massage Recognized that oils absorb through skin Her book The Secret of Life and Youth popularized aromatherapy.

12. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. ROBERT B. TISSERAND Englishman 1977 – wrote The Art of Aromatherapy –first aromatherapy book in English language Introduced thousands of people, including massage therapists, to aromatherapy

13. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. FRENCH VS. BRITISH MODEL Gattefossé father of French model –more medical –intensive use of full-strength oils –used by European physicians today British model based on Marguerite Maury –more spa-like, used in North American spas –diluted oils for massage & other treatments

14. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. ESSENTIAL OILS The heart of aromatherapy “Essential” does not mean “important” but rather “inner quality” or “essence.” More like alcohols than oils

15. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. SOURCING ESSENTIAL OILS 2 primary methods –cultivation –wildcrafting Cultivation big business –international center in Grasse, France known as the perfume capital of the world 27 tons of jasmine annually

16. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. PROCESSING ESSENTIAL OILS Three main processing techniques used to create essential oils are: –distillation –extraction –cold pressing

17. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. PARTS OF PLANTS USED Part of PlantEssential OilPopular Processing Methods Berriesallspice, juniper carbon dioxide extraction steam distillation Seedsanise, celery, cumin, nutmeg oil carbon dioxide extraction steam distillation Barkcassia, sassafrassolvent extraction Woodcamphor, cedar, rosewood, sandalwood, agarwood water distillation hydrodiffusion Rhizomegingercarbon dioxide extraction Leaves basil, bay leaf, sage, eucalyptus, lemongrass, melaleuca, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rosemary, spearmint, tea tree, thyme, wintergreen water and steam distillation Resinfrankincense, myrrh solvent extraction steam distillation Flowers chamomile, clary sage, clove, geranium, hyssop, jasmine, lavender, marjoram, orange, rose, ylang- ylang steam distillation solvent extraction Peelbergamot, grapefruit, orange, tangerinecold pressing Rootvalerian steam distillation hydrodiffusion

18. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. TESTING PURITY OF ESSENTIAL OILS Thin-layer chromatography Infrared analysis Gas chromatography/mass spectrometer

19. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. Most popular method Steam passes over plant material. Oils evaporate. Condenser chills steam. Forms a combination of water & oils STEAM DISTILLATION

20. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. Watery part left after steam distillation Contains plant’s water-soluble aroma Also called “floral water” or “herbal water” Used as cooling spray or wash Contains some benefits of essential oils Used full strength on body & in nebulizers Not simple solutions (oils diluted in water) HYDROSOLS

21. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. WATER DISTILLATION Oldest method of distillation Also called hydrodistillation Plant matter fully submerged in water Mixture boiled Produces steam w/ aromatic compounds Appropriate for spices, wood, roots, nuts

22. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. WATER & STEAM DISTILLATION Water boiled beneath plants above Steam passes through plant matter. Releases aromatic compounds Steam condenses. Separated into hydrosol & essential oil

23. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. Plant material soaked in oil Then heated & strained Creates a type of infused oil or extract Contains some of the aromatic compounds Different strength & consistency than essential oil Can be strained & used as a massage oil MACERATION

24. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. Material washed with solvent (hexane) Solvent filtered, leaves waxy “concrete” “Concrete” warmed w/ ethanol This alcohol solution frozen & cold-filtered Leaves concentrated oil called “absolute” By-product “floral wax” for candles, lotions SOLVENT EXTRACTION

25. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. CARBON DIOXIDE EXTRACTION Carbon dioxide compressed to liquid/gas –called a supercritical fluid Secondary processing separates waxes CO 2 evaporates – leaves no residues Almost all plant’s compounds preserved 2 kinds of CO 2 extracts –“totals” contain all oily components of plant –“selects” are redistilled – only aromatic oils left

26. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. HYDRODIFFUSION Also called percolation Steam sprayed through plant material Steam condenses & cools. Essential oils & hydrosol separated Plant material below the steam source Heats more evenly / extraction quicker Appropriate for wood & root oils

27. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. COLD PRESSING Also referred to as “expression” Used exclusively on citrus fruits Oils released by scoring or zesting peels Efficient way to create quality citrus oils Cold-pressed oils volatile – do not last long Need to be used within months

28. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. POPULAR ESSENTIAL OILS USED IN SPAS Some benefits of the oils in Table 11–2 : –uplifting, calming, healing, antibacterial, balancing, pain reducer, decongestant, & circulation-enhancer Keep out of direct sunlight. Tightly capped, dark-colored bottles Store in a cool, dry place.

29. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. BLENDING ESSENTIAL OILS Some essential oils pre-blended in carrier oil Customization – oils blended each treatment Add essential oils by drop for correct dilution. 12–15 drops per ounce of carrier oil Approximately 100–120 drops for 8 ounces

30. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. NEAT OILS VS. DILUTED OILS General rule –do not apply essential oils “neat” –neat = undiluted May be used neat in diffuser for inhalation Neat on aromatherapy wrap points okay Start diluted and work up to 2% essential oil. On small areas, more tension – less diluted

31. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. CHILDREN & OLDER PEOPLE 1/3 strength for children under 12 The younger the child the more diluted the oils Older people, delicate skin–½ strength Inhaling oils safe in all cases Prolonged inhalation can cause headaches.

32. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. “NOTES” blends all elements effectively Synergy

33. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. EFFECTS OF AROMATHERAPY Effects created by essential oils fall into two main categories: –emotional –physiological

34. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. EMOTIONAL EFFECTS Created through inhalation Smell has direct connection to emotions. Same area of brain for smell & memory –limbic system Aromas engender or enhance moods: –stimulating, uplifting, calming, soothing, relaxing, grounding, balancing, and centering

35. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. PHYSIOLOGICAL EFFECTS Created through absorption of oils through skin, membranes, & digestive tract –diuretic –moistening –analgesic –antibacterial –antimicrobial –antiseptic –anti-viral –anti-inflammatory –antispasmodic –astringent –diuretic –decongesting –detoxifying

36. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. OLFACTORY SYSTEM Molecules breathed into olfactory epithelia Contains tiny hair-like cilia –ends of neurons protruding from limbic system –deepest memory recesses of the brain

37. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. OLFACTORY BULB Impulses go through bulb to limbic system. Sits above epithelia Humans – 10–20 million olfactory receptors 300–400 types of receptors Mice have 1,000 types. Dogs have over 200 million receptors. Dogs’ sensitivity 100  greater than human

38. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. LIMBIC SYSTEM Controls basic functions –heart rate, blood pressure, breathing, memory, stress level, & hormone balance Associated with –hormonal system for pain reduction, sexual stimulation, & relaxation Profound effects on mood, state of mind

39. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. AROMATHERAPY STUDIES Dr. Tiffany Field, Touch Research Institute Documented thousands of clinical studies 30+ studies on effects of aromatherapy

40. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. AROMATHERAPY CONTRAINDICATIONS Nutmeg, parsley seed, & star anise contain myristicin – can cause complications Certain oils considered toxic – mugwort, pennyroyal, sage, sassafras, & wormwood Just a few drops needed – better to be cautious & use smaller amounts

41. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. SPECIFIC CONTRAINDICATIONS No peppermint/spearmint for heart disease Consult physician for epilepsy, skin cancer, kidney disease, or liver conditions. Asthmatics should avoid essential oils. Essential oils in eyes – flush thoroughly Only taken internally w/ medical supervision Not a replacement for proper health care

42. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. PHOTOSENSITIVITY Several citrus peel varieties Cause heightened sensitivity to sunlight Called photosensitizers Bergamot most widely cited Grapefruit, orange, Neroli, & other citrus Do not apply if going in sun within 6 hours. Application of sunblock provides safety.

43. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. SENSITIZATION The process of the body developing an allergic reaction when exposed to certain essential oils An immune system response in reaction to foreign molecules called haptens

44. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. SENSITIZATION Use caution with skin conditions. Avoid rashes and skin breakouts. If irritation develops, discontinue use. Oils processed through body 4–6 hours If irritation persists, seek medical attention. May be caused by old or improperly stored oil Carrier oils also cause allergic reactions.

45. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. PREGNANCY Avoid toxic oils and emmenagogues. –emmenagogues promote menstruation chamomile, clary sage, ginger, jasmine, juniper, marjoram, myrrh, rose, rosemary, & peppermint Rule out aromatherapy in the first trimester. Some spas offer diluted aromatherapy. When in doubt, obtain physician’s approval.

46. © Copyright 2010 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. CHILDREN & INFANTS Keep out of reach of children and infants. Use strongly diluted oils. –1 drop in bath –2 drops per ounce of carrier oil Inhaling essential oils found in spas is fine. Smaller bodies, more diluted oils Avoid peppermint and eucalyptus oils.