1. Dancing Around the Ring of Fire: Tensions with Tourism at Up Helly Aa in Lerwick, Shetland Dr Rebecca Finkel Queen Margaret University, Edinburgh rfinkel@qmu.ac.uk

2. Outline Research Methods Background of Shetland & Up Helly Aa Ethnographic observations Ethos of community festival Identifying tourist tensions 'Tourist gaze' (Urry, 2001)‏ Burn, burn, burn?

3. Research Methods Participant & Direct Observation (2007)‏ In-depth interviews with ex-Jarls & Volunteers Conversations with Lerwick residents Student 'gatekeeper' facilitated access

4. Geography Shetland lies across the 60th line of Latitude North with the capital Lerwick almost sitting in the centre of a triangle formed by connecting Aberdeen (Scotland), with Bergen (Norway) and Torshavn (Faroe Islands).

5. Background of Up Helly Aa Last Tuesday in January Only men participating in ritual activities First in 1878 – annually in 1889 Torch-lit processions --> Longship on fire --> Dancing at the halls

6. Festival linked to Shetland Identity Defining collective sense of self apart from mainland More Norwegian than Scottish (Callahan, 1998)‏ Reproduction & celebration of idea of heritage Generational and diasporic Reimagining future of festival and Shetland based on reconstructed past Every element has significance and meaning

7. Funding leads to autonomy Personal & private funding – local biz No council 'tick boxes' Feel can exclude outsiders and 'others' to preserve 'tradition' Tensions with Visit Shetland Tensions with 'official' marketing and media Increase in flights

9. Reeling around tourists Town Hall only Limited tickets Liminal spaces for locals only – tourists on periphery Limited accommodation Limited restaurants Limited retail options

10. Two-stepping with tourists Financial benefits Social benefits  Share heritage  Reconfirm identity Sustainability benefits Seasonality benefits Don't participate, so what's the harm?

11. Re-negotiation under 'tourist gaze' 'Authenticity' issues Denial – uncomfortable Embrace – commercial? Making a 'destination'  Cruise ships  Eco / outdoor tourism  Food tourism Resistance to standardisation and instrumental agendas

12. Questions?