1. Chapter 29
Light Cured Gels

2. Learning Objectives
Explain when you would use a one-color or two-color method for applying UV or LED gels.
List the different types of light cured gels used in current systems.
Identify the supplies needed for light cured gel application.
Determine when to use light cured gels on your client.
List the four guidelines that will assist you in choosing the proper light cured gel technology for your client.
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3. Learning Objectives (continued)
Discuss the differences between light cured lamps and bulbs.
Identify the advantages of using light cured gel polish.
Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail enhancements.
Explain how to correctly remove hard light cured gels.
Identify the correct way to remove soft light cured gels.
WHY STUDY LIGHT CURED GELS?
Clients may be interested in receiving light cured gel services.
An understanding of the chemistry of light cured gel products will allow you to choose the best system and products to use in your salon.
An understanding of how light cured gel nails are made, applied, and cured will allow you to create a safe and efficient salon service.
Clients often become loyal and steadfast when they receive excellent light cured gel nail services, maintenance, and removal. 3

4. Introduction Light cured gel
Also known as UV and LED gel
A type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed to a UV or LED light source
Light cured gel is an increasingly popular method for nail enhancement services.
INTRODUCTION
This chapter introduces light cured gel, also known as UV and LED gel.
This is a type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed to a UV or LED light source.
Light cured gel is an increasingly popular method for nail enhancement services. 4

5. LESSON ACTIVITY 1
Have students discuss their own experiences of light cured gel services. What do they know about it? How many students understand the procedure and the chemistry behind it? Have class discuss and write the main points on the board to reference later as you go through the chapter. 5

6. Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels
Oligomer – a short chain of monomer liquids that is often thick, sticky, and gel-like and that is not long enough to be considered a polymer.
Light cured gels rely on a special type of acrylate called a urethane acrylate, while newer light cured gel systems use urethane methacrylates.
A chemical within the product, called a photoinitiator initiates the polymerization reaction.
COMPREHEND THE CHEMISTRY OF LIGHT CURED GELS
These are nail enhancements based on light curing. An oligomer is a short chain of monomer liquids that is often thick, sticky, and gel-like and that is not long enough to be considered a polymer.
Traditionally, light cured gels rely on a special type of acrylate called a urethane acrylate, while newer light cured gel systems use urethane methacrylates. A chemical within the product, called a photoinitiator initiates the polymerization reaction. 6

7. Describe Light Cured Gels
The different light cured gels
Thin-viscosity gels
Medium-viscosity gels
Thick-viscosity gels
Building or sculpting gels.
The one-color method – one color of gel is applied over the entire surface of the nail
The two-color method – two colors of resin are used to overlay the nail
DESCRIBE LIGHT CURED GELS
The different light cured gels can be described as thin-viscosity gels, medium- viscosity gels, thick-viscosity gels, and building or sculpting gels. Remember that viscosity is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid and that viscosity affects how the fluid flows.
The one-color method is the method whereby one color of UV or LED gel is applied over the entire surface of the nail. This is for clients who wish to wear colored polish or UV or LED gel polish over the enhancement.
The two-color method is a method whereby two colors of resin are used to overlay the nail; usually pink and white are used, allowing for a French or American manicure finish in which lacquer is not needed.
See Procedure 29-1, One-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails Finishing with UV or LED Gel Polish, found on page 1002 of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
See Procedure 29-2 Two-Color Method UV or LED Gel on Tips or Natural Nails, found on page 1006 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 7

8. Types of Light Cured Gels
Bonding gels
Building gels
Self-leveling gels
Pigmented gels
Gel polish
Glossing gel
© hightowernrw/Shutterstock.com
TYPES OF LIGHT CURED GELS
Bonding gels are used to increase adhesion to the natural nail plate, similar to a monomer liquid and polymer powder primer.
Building gels include any thick-viscosity resin that allows the cosmetologist to build an arch and curve into the fingernail.
Self-leveling gels are thinner in consistency than building gels, allowing them to settle and level during application.
Pigmented gels can be building gels or self-leveling gels that include color pigment.
Gel polish is a very thin-viscosity gel that is usually pigmented and packaged in a pot or a polish bottle; it is used as an alternative to traditional nail lacquers.
Glossing gel, also known as sealing gel, finishing gel or shine gel, is used over the finished and filed gel application to create a high shine, in much the same way a top coat would be applied over colored nail polish.
Inhibition layer is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV or LED gel has cured. 8

9. Name the Supplies Required for Light Cured Gels
Light curing gel lamp
Application brush
Gel primer or bonding gel
Light cured gel
Nail forms
NAME THE SUPPLIES REQUIRED FOR LIGHT CURED GELS 
Light curing gel lamp: Choose a light curing gel lamp designed to produce the correct amount of UV or LED light needed to properly cure the gel nail enhancement products you use.
Application brush: Choose brushes with small, flat (or oval) bristles to hold and spread the light cured gels.
Gel primer or bonding gel: Primers and bonding gels are designed specifically to improve adhesion of UV and LED gels to the natural nail plate.
Light cured gel: This should include pigmented gel(s) for a one-color or two- color service.
Nail forms: Depending on the manufacturer recommendation, clear plastic forms are sometimes used to allow UV and LED radiation to penetrate from the underside for more complete curing of the free edge. 9

10. Name the Supplies Required for Light Cured Gels (continued)
Nail tips
Nail adhesive
Nail dehydrator
Abrasive files and buffers
Cleansing solution
Lint-free cleansing wipes
NAME THE SUPPLIES REQUIRED FOR LIGHT CURED GELS (continued)
Nail tips: It is important when using nail tips with UV or LED gel to size the tip so that the curve of the tip matches the curve of the nail.
Nail adhesive: There are many types of nail adhesives for securing nail tips to natural nails.
Nail dehydrator: This product removes surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate and help prevent lifting of the nail enhancements.
Abrasive files and buffers: Select a medium to fine abrasive buffer for natural nail preparation and smoothing the surface.
Cleansing solution: This product usually contains isopropanol and the may contain additional solvents. This solution can be used to cleanse the natural nail as well as to remove the sticky inhibition layer from the gel after curing.
Lint-free cleansing wipes: Lint-free wipes are used to cleanse the nail surface. 10

11. Storing Light Cured Gels
Be sure that lids are on tight and containers are upright to avoid leakage.
Gels should be stored in a dark, cool place to prolong the life of the product.
STORING LIGHT CURED GELS
Be sure that the lids are on tight and the containers are upright to avoid leakage.
Since light cured gels are light sensitive, meaning light can cure the product, gels should be stored in a dark, cool place to prolong the life of the product. 11

12. When to Use Light Cured Gels
Can be used anytime depending on the needs of your client.
As a professional, you should recommend the products that you feel will perform best for your clients.
WHEN TO USE LIGHT CURED GELS
These products can be used anytime depending on your client’s needs.
Questions to assist you and your client when to use light cured gels:
How easily would your client like the polish to be removed from the fingernail?
If the polish is to be removed away from the salon, perhaps a traditional polish should be used.
How long does the client desire the polish to last?
If the polish is meant to remain on the fingernail for two weeks, the best choice is a gel polish.
See Procedure 29-3, Sculpting Light Cured Gel Using Forms, found on page of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
See Procedure 29-5, Monomer Liquid and Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements, Finished with UV or LED Gel Polish, found on page 1015 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 12

13. Choose the Proper Light Cured Gel Technology
Flat fingernails – thicker building gel
Arched or curved fingernails – self-leveling gel
Frequent breaks – gel with fiberglass
CHOOSE THE PROPER LIGHT CURED GEL TECHNOLOGY
Guidelines to make the best choice:
If the client has flat fingernails, more building will need to be done to create an arch and curve. This building will be easiest when done with a thicker UV or LED building gel.
If the client has fingernails that have an arch or curve, then a self-leveling gel may be the best option.
If your client returns to the salon often with broken enhancements, then a gel that uses fiberglass may be the best product for the next service.
If a client is in search of manicure with long-lasting polish, a soak-off gel polish will be a great option. 13

14. Distinguish the Difference Between Light Cured Bulbs and Lamps
UV bulb – emits UV radiation
UV lamp – a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV bulbs
LED (light emitting diodes) – will cure LED gels.
LED lamp – a specialized electronic device that powers and controls LEDs.
Courtesy of Light Elegance Nail Products
DISTINGUISH THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LIGHT CURED BULBS AND LAMPS
A UV bulb emits UV radiation to cure UV gel nail enhancements.
A UV lamp is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV bulbs to cure UV gel nail enhancements.
LED (light emitting diodes) will cure LED gel nail enhancement products.
LED lamp is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls LEDs to cure LED gel nail enhancements.
Remember: Lamp wattage is the measure of how much electricity the bulbs consumes. As bulbs get older and are used often, they may not be as effective. Refer to your manufacturer’s directions for the life of the bulbs. 14

15. Specify the Advantages of Light Cured Gel Polish
Cure rather than dry
Do not imprint or smudge while lacquer is drying
Do not thicken over time
Last longer in the bottle
SPECIFY THE ADVANTAGES OF LIGHT CURED GEL POLISH
Wearing light cured gel polishes instead of traditional nail lacquers does offer great advantages; however, they are removed differently than traditional nail polish.
One advantage is that they do not dry, they cure; therefore, will not smudge. Light cured gels also do not thicken over time because the solvent does not evaporate; therefore, they last longer in the bottle. 15

16. Relate Nail Art to Light Cured Gels
Light cured gels can be a very lucrative nail art medium.
RELATE NAIL ART TO LIGHT CURED GELS
Light cured gels can be used to create beautiful nail enhancements and can also be a very lucrative nail art medium. 16

17. Perform Light Cured Gel Maintenance and Removal
Every two weeks
Use 180-grit abrasive file.
Remove oils for better adhesion.
File with a lighter touch than on ML/PP.
PERFORM LIGHT CURED GEL MAINTENANCE AND REMOVAL
Maintenance for light-cured gel enhancements must be performed every two weeks.
Gel Maintenance
Begin the maintenance using a medium-grit abrasive file (180-grit) to thin and shape the enhancement. Clean the nail with the manufacturer’s recommended cleanser or isopropanol (99 percent or better) and then proceed with the maintenance procedure.
See Procedure 29-4, Light Cured Gel Maintenance, found on page 1012 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 17

18. Light Cured Gel Removal
Hard (traditional) UV and LED gels – cannot be removed with acetone; must be filed off
Soft UV and LED gels – removed by soaking in acetone
LIGHT CURED GEL REMOVAL
Hard UV and LED gels, also known as traditional gels, cannot be removed with a solvent such as acetone. They need to be filed off the natural nail to be removed.
Soft UV and LED gels, also known as soakable gels, including gel polishes, are removed by soaking in acetone for approximately 5 to 15 minutes or product remover to soften them, allowing the cosmetologist to easily scrape off the loosened gel polish with a wooden stick.
See Procedure 29-6, Light Cured Gel Removal – Hard Gel, found on page of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
See Procedure 29-7, Light Cured Gel Removal – Soft or Soakable Gel Polishes, found on page 1018 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 18

19. Summary and Review
It is important to learn another procedure for applying beautiful and durable nail enhancements.
As a professional in the cosmetology field, it’s important to have a thorough understanding of and competent skill level in every nail enhancement procedure in order to properly consult with clients to choose the enhancement procedure that best suits their needs.
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
It is important to learn another procedure for applying beautiful and durable nail enhancements.
As a professional in the cosmetology field, it’s important to have a thorough understanding of and competent skill level in every nail enhancement procedure in order to properly consult with clients to choose the enhancement procedure that best suits their needs. 19

20. Chapter Review Questions
Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of light cured gels. 
When would you use a one-color method of applying light cured gels? When would you use a two-color method for applying light cured gels?
What are the different types of light cured gels found in current systems?
What supplies are needed for light cured gel application?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of light cured gels.
Answer: Light cured gel enhancements rely on ingredients from the family called acrylates. Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylate are the main ingredients used alone or in combination with urethane acrylates to create light cured gel nail enhancements. Light cured gel resins react when exposed to the UV or LED light source that is recommended for the gel. It takes the combination of resin, photoinitiator, and the proper curing bulb to cause the gel to cure completely.
2. When would you use a one-color method of applying light cured gels? When would you use a two-color method for applying light cured gels?
Answer: A one-color method is the method whereby one color of UV or LED gel is applied over the entire surface of the nail. This method is used for clients who wish to wear colored polish or UV or LED gel polish over the enhancement. The two-color method is used as an overlay on the nail and is usually pink and white to replicate a French or American manicure. 
3. What are the different types of light cured gels found in current systems?
Answer: The different types of gels are bonding gels, building gels, self-leveling gels, pigmented gels, gel polish, and glossing gel. 
4. What supplies are needed for light cured gel application?
Answer: The supplies needed for a light cured gel procedure are a light curing gel lamp, application brush, gel primer or bonding gel, light cured gel, nail forms, nail tips, nail adhesive, nail dehydrator, and abrasive files and buffers.
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21. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
When should you use light cured gels?
When should you use a building gel, a self-leveling gel, or a light cured gel that uses fiberglass?
What are the differences between light cured lamps and light cured bulbs?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
5. When should you use light cured gels?
Answer: Anytime; however, it is determined by your client’s needs.
6. When should you use a building gel, a self-leveling gel, or a light cured gel that uses fiberglass?
Answer: A building gel is used when the client has flat nails and an arch or curve needs to be created on the fingernail. A self-leveling gel enhances the thickness of the overlay while providing a smooth surface. A light cured gel that uses fiberglass would be good for a client who continually breaks their nails.
7. What are the differences between light cured lamps and light cured bulbs?
Answer:
A UV bulb, also known as UV light bulb, is a special bulb that emits UV radiation to cure UV gel nail enhancements. There are a number of bulbs that are used to cure light cured gels: 4-, 6-, 7-, 8-, and 9-watt bulbs.
A UV lamp, also known as UV light unit, is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV bulbs to cure UV gel nail enhancements.
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22. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
List the steps to use when applying one-color, light cured gel on tips or natural nails.
Describe how light cured gels are applied over forms.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
8. List the steps to use when applying one-color, light cured gel on tips or natural nails.
Answer: The procedure is as follows: Clean nails; apply cuticle remover to the nail plate; gently file or buff the nail plate; use a cleanser or a dehydrater; apply tips if desired; apply bonding gel if applicable; cure bonding gel; apply UV or LED gel; cure gel; repeat steps 8 and 9; apply a small bead of UV or LED gel to the apex to create an arch; cure gel; apply a layer of self-leveling gel if needed; remove inhibition layer; refine surface; remove dust.
9. Describe how light cured gels are applied over forms.
Answer: The procedure is as follows: Clean nails; apply cuticle remover and gently push back cuticles; buff nails; use a cleanser or a nail dehydrator; apply primer or bonding gel; cure gel; apply first coat of building or self-leveling gel over the nail and form; cure nail; apply a second layer of gel and cure; optional – apply a third layer of building or self leveling UV or LED gel over the entire enhancement and cure; remove form; remove inhibition layer; shape the free edge; apply another layer of UV or LED, if needed, over the entire enhancement; file, shape and buff; remove dust; apply the gloss UV or LED; cure the nail; remove inhibition layer; apply oil.
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23. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail enhancements.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
10. Describe how to maintain light cured gel nail enhancements.
Answer: The procedure is as follows:
Clean nails
Apply cuticle remover and gently push cuticles back
File nail play plate to reduce and shape the nail surface
Lightly buff the natural nail regrowth with a medium buffer
Remove dust
Use a cleanser/dehydrator
Apply primer or bonding gel
Cure the bonding gel
Apply UV or LED gel on the regrowth area.
Cure gel
Remove inhibition layer
File and buff nail
Apply the UV or LED gloss gel
Apply oil 23