1. Ocean Waves

2. Ocean storm –”sea”

3. Ship in a Storm

4. Rogue Wave

5. “Beach”

6. Wave Characteristics Wave length (L) Wave height (H) Wave period (T)
Wave speed: C = L/T

7. Global Wind Speed Global Wave Height
Do you see a correlation, a connection?

8. Wind is the main source of most waves Stronger winds = bigger waves
When might you expect to see some really big waves?

9. Breakers

10. Wave Transformation

11. Wave Transformation
1. Waves break on the shore because they run out of room and all of their energy crashes in.

12. “Big Wave” Most ocean waves are caused by wind.
Your Turn…..answer the questions in your notes

13. Types of Breakers
3. The type of breaker (wave) depends on the slope of the shoreline.
Plunging waves break when the shoreline slope is moderate
Spilling waves break when the shoreline slope is gentle
Surging Waves break when the shoreline slope is steep

14. Spillers
Crashing wave where there is a gentle slope.

15. Plungers
Crashing wave where there is a moderate slope.

16. Surging Breakers
Crashing wave where there is a very steep slope.

17. 4. Coastal Terminology
Accretion: A gradual deposition by water of mud, sand to form dry land.
Erosion: Natural action of waves and current over a long period of time, sand is moved/transported.
Avulsion: A sudden & rapid change in shoreline

18. Coastline Features
Erosion Accretion
How are they different?

19. Wave action continuously changes the shape of the shoreline
6. A Long shore current hits the shore at an angle and sand is moved.
This is why the water carries you up or down the shoreline when you are at the beach.

20. Longshore Currents

21. Longshore current

22. Summer & Winter Profile

23. Changing Beach Profiles

24. Let’s compare and contrast…
Why does the East Coast and West Coast have different sized waves?

25. Coastal Development

26. Storm Generated Waves

27. Wave Erosion

28. Coastal Features

29. Coastal Features

30. Sea Arch

31. Sea Stacks

32. Sand Dunes

33. Tidal Bulges How does the moon stay in Earth’s orbit?
How does the gravitational pull affect our ocean tides?

34. How many high tides are on Earth at any time? How many low tides?

35. Neap Tide

36. Spring Tide

37. Spring & Neap Tides