1. Surfing Conditions SeasonsSeasons Three main factors influencing surfing conditions:Three main factors influencing surfing conditions: –swell direction –currents and tides –winds WavesWaves BottomsBottoms Beach typesBeach types PollutionPollution Surf reports (phone and online)Surf reports (phone and online)

2. Surfing Conditions: Seasons Conditions in CaliforniaConditions in California Winter brings larger waves (often from the north and west)Winter brings larger waves (often from the north and west) Winter brings colder water (low 50’s)Winter brings colder water (low 50’s) Summer brings smaller, less frequent waves (often from the south)Summer brings smaller, less frequent waves (often from the south) Summer brings warmer water (up to 70˚ F)Summer brings warmer water (up to 70˚ F)

3. Surfing Conditions: Swell Direction North Swell West Swell South Swell

4. Surfing Conditions: Swell Direction North Swell: generated by storms in the North Pacific during the winter (December through February). Average size 3-6 feet, but can reach 10-15 feet (powerful).North Swell: generated by storms in the North Pacific during the winter (December through February). Average size 3-6 feet, but can reach 10-15 feet (powerful). West Swell: originates from storms in the Western Pacific and is common during fall and spring. Average size 3-6 feet. Often mixed with other swells (southwest).West Swell: originates from storms in the Western Pacific and is common during fall and spring. Average size 3-6 feet. Often mixed with other swells (southwest). South Swell: generated by storms in the South Pacific during the summer (May through September). Average size 3-6 feet but may reach 8-15 feet. The Wedge in Newport Beach reaches up to 20 feet on largest south swells.South Swell: generated by storms in the South Pacific during the summer (May through September). Average size 3-6 feet but may reach 8-15 feet. The Wedge in Newport Beach reaches up to 20 feet on largest south swells.

5. Surfing Conditions: Currents and Tides The moon’s gravitational pull on the earth creates a bulge in the ocean, causing a high tide on the near side of the earth and on the opposite side of the earth.The moon’s gravitational pull on the earth creates a bulge in the ocean, causing a high tide on the near side of the earth and on the opposite side of the earth. The sun’s gravitational pull creates a lesser bulge in the ocean, which can contribute to or detract from the moon’s pull.The sun’s gravitational pull creates a lesser bulge in the ocean, which can contribute to or detract from the moon’s pull. High (flow) and low (ebb) tides in California fluctuate about 4-5 feet.High (flow) and low (ebb) tides in California fluctuate about 4-5 feet. In California, we have two high and two low tides (semidiurnal) in a 24-hour period.In California, we have two high and two low tides (semidiurnal) in a 24-hour period. In general, higher tides create easier-breaking waves while lower tides create faster, tubing waves (preferred).In general, higher tides create easier-breaking waves while lower tides create faster, tubing waves (preferred).

6. Surfing Conditions: Wind In general, wind is bad for surfing, creating choppy, blown-out conditions.In general, wind is bad for surfing, creating choppy, blown-out conditions. In California, early morning is the best time to surf because the ocean’s surface is glassy and smooth.In California, early morning is the best time to surf because the ocean’s surface is glassy and smooth. In California, wind usually picks up by late morning, 11:00 a.m. or so.In California, wind usually picks up by late morning, 11:00 a.m. or so. Occasionally, the wind dies late in the day, creating “evening glass off.”Occasionally, the wind dies late in the day, creating “evening glass off.”

7. Surfing Conditions: Wind Direction Sidewind moves north or south Onshore wind moves east Offshore wind moves west

8. Surfing Conditions: Wind One beneficial wind exists: Santa Ana wind (offshore).One beneficial wind exists: Santa Ana wind (offshore). Santa Ana wind is a warm, desert wind unique to southern California.Santa Ana wind is a warm, desert wind unique to southern California. Santa Ana winds produce hollow, fast waves and occur most often in the summer.Santa Ana winds produce hollow, fast waves and occur most often in the summer.

9. Surfing Conditions: Waves Anatomy of a wave: crest (top), trough (bottom), face (front), peak (highest point), shoulder (side)Anatomy of a wave: crest (top), trough (bottom), face (front), peak (highest point), shoulder (side)

10. Surfing Conditions: Measuring Waves Waves are officially measured in feet from crest to trough.Waves are officially measured in feet from crest to trough. However, surfers like to underestimate wave height or measure by back of the wave; i.e., they might call a 6-foot wave a 4-foot wave.However, surfers like to underestimate wave height or measure by back of the wave; i.e., they might call a 6-foot wave a 4-foot wave. Surfers also often measure according to body-height: shoulder- high, head-high, double overhead.Surfers also often measure according to body-height: shoulder- high, head-high, double overhead.

11. Surfing Conditions: Bottoms Three main types exist: sand, rock, and coral.Three main types exist: sand, rock, and coral. Sand is best for beginners and most common in California.Sand is best for beginners and most common in California. Rock exists at several great breaks in southern California: Rincon, Malibu, Trestles, San Onofre, etc. Booties help surfers negotiate through rocks.Rock exists at several great breaks in southern California: Rincon, Malibu, Trestles, San Onofre, etc. Booties help surfers negotiate through rocks. Coral exists in Hawaii and other places, creating sharp and dangerous bottom.Coral exists in Hawaii and other places, creating sharp and dangerous bottom.

12. Surfing Conditions: Beach Types Three main beach types exist.Three main beach types exist. Beach break: waves break on a sandy beach like Mondos (best for beginners)Beach break: waves break on a sandy beach like Mondos (best for beginners) Point break: waves break onto a rocky point like Rincon (creates a long ride with the right swell)Point break: waves break onto a rocky point like Rincon (creates a long ride with the right swell) Reef break: waves break on a rock bed or coral reef as on many beaches in Hawaii (often creating the best and most dangerous conditions)Reef break: waves break on a rock bed or coral reef as on many beaches in Hawaii (often creating the best and most dangerous conditions)

13. Surfing Conditions: Pollution Ocean water quality is determined by many factors and fluctuates but is good most of the time in California.Ocean water quality is determined by many factors and fluctuates but is good most of the time in California. Some surfers avoid the ocean for a few days following rain because of the city filth washed into the ocean and the ensuing bacterial pollution.Some surfers avoid the ocean for a few days following rain because of the city filth washed into the ocean and the ensuing bacterial pollution.bacterial pollutionbacterial pollution Heal the Bay provides a weekly report card by beach and educates the public about environmental issues involving beaches.Heal the Bay provides a weekly report card by beach and educates the public about environmental issues involving beaches.Heal the BayHeal the Bay Surfrider Foundation provides water-quality reports by beach.Surfrider Foundation provides water-quality reports by beach.Surfrider FoundationSurfrider Foundation

14. Surfing Conditions: Reports Phone Reports: many city lifeguards provide a daily surf report by phonePhone Reports: many city lifeguards provide a daily surf report by phone –Newport Beach (949) 673-3371 –Huntington Beach (714) 536-9303 –San Clemente (949) 492-1011 Online Reports: several websites provide daily surf reports on the InternetOnline Reports: several websites provide daily surf reports on the Internet –Surfline Surfline –Wavewatch Wavewatch –Wetsand Wetsand

15. Surfing Conditions: Resources The Encyclopedia of Surfing by Matt WarshawThe Encyclopedia of Surfing by Matt Warshaw Surfing California by Bank WrightSurfing California by Bank Wright The WetSand WaveCast® Guide to Surf Forecasting by Nathan Todd CoolThe WetSand WaveCast® Guide to Surf Forecasting by Nathan Todd Cool

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