1. Chapter 9 Waves Instructor: Dr. George A. Maul gmaul@fit.edu / X 7453
OCN 5401
Chapter 9
Waves
Instructor: Dr. George A. Maul
/ X 7453

2. Largest wave at sea ever observed
Wave Terminology
spilling
plunging
collapsing
surging
Breaker types
Largest wave at sea ever observed

3. Wind Waves

4. Wave Spectrum Wind speed Wind duration Internal waves, SAR
Scatterometer waves
Capillary waves

5. Hurricane wind-wave generation
Wave Height Nomogram
Hurricane wind-wave generation

6. Wave Information – the Pilot Chart
Probability of waves exceeding 8 feet

7. Global Waveheight from Satellite Altimetry

8. Shallow water wave equations
and
surfbeat

9. where the hyperbolic tangent
Linear wave celerity CWAVE
where the hyperbolic tangent
Hyperbolic functions

10. Deepwater to Shallow water (Z>L/2) (Z<L/20)

11. Orbital Motion in Waves h

12. Wave Energy & Refraction
Energy per unit area

13. Distribution of wave power, kW/m
Power from Ocean Waves
𝑃 𝑤𝑎𝑣𝑒 = 𝐸 𝑤𝑎𝑣𝑒 ∙ 𝑐 𝑔𝑟𝑜𝑢𝑝
Distribution of wave power, kW/m

14. Wave Diffraction
Slit (d) must be wider than incident wave’s wavelength L.
𝐼= 𝐼 0 𝑠𝑖𝑛𝑐 2 ( 𝜋𝑑 𝐿 sinθ)

15. Littoral Currents
Rip Current

16. Capillary Waves
Surface tension ( ) restoring force

17. Stokes Waves and Drift

18. Ocean surface current RADAR

19. Inverted Barometer Effect
∆ 𝜂 𝐼𝐵𝐸 = Δ𝑝 𝜌𝑔
Δ 𝜂 𝐼𝐵𝐸 ≅ 𝑐𝑚 𝑚𝑏 ≈ 𝑓𝑜𝑜𝑡 𝑖𝑛 𝐻𝑔

20. Storm Surge ∆ 𝜂 𝑠𝑠 ≅ 𝜌 𝑎𝑖𝑟 𝐶 𝐷 𝑣 𝑎𝑖𝑟 2 𝜌 𝑤𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑔𝐻 ∆𝑥
∆ 𝜂 𝑠𝑠 ≅ 𝜌 𝑎𝑖𝑟 𝐶 𝐷 𝑣 𝑎𝑖𝑟 2 𝜌 𝑤𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑔𝐻 ∆𝑥
Type equation here.

21. Standing Waves ℓ
Period T=L/C
𝑇= 2ℓ 𝑛 𝑔𝐻
n=1,2,3…

22. Seiche

23. Quarter Wave Seiche
n=2
n=1 ℓ
Bay of Fundy Tides: 𝑇= 4ℓ 𝑔𝐻 ℓ = 111 km; H = 10 m; T=12.4h
Resonant with the M2 lunar tide

24. Photograph by Irene Watts, Cape Cod, MA; 2011
Sea and Swell
Directional Spectrum
Photograph by Irene Watts, Cape Cod, MA; 2011
Waves at sea

25. 1755 Lisbon Tsunami travel times

26. Kelvin Waves

27. Rossby Waves

28. Internal Waves

29. Rogue Waves

30. OCN 5401
Chapter 9
Questions?