1. Chapter 25
Manicuring

2. Learning Objectives Define scope of practice.
Describe the potential consequences if a nail technician works outside the state’s scope of practice.
Identify the four types of nail technology tools required to perform a manicure.
Explain the difference between multiuse (reusable) and single-use (disposable) implements.
(continues) 2

3. Learning Objectives (continued)
Name and describe the three-part procedure used in the performance of the basic manicure.
Explain why a consultation is important before a service in the salon.
List and describe the five basic nail shapes for women.
Describe the most popular nail shape for men.
(continues) 3

4. Learning Objectives (continued)
List the massage movements for performing a relaxing hand and arm massage.
Explain the differences between spa manicures and basic manicures.
Describe how aromatherapy is best used in manicuring services.
Explain the benefits of paraffin wax in manicuring.
WHY STUDY MANICURING?
The appearance of nails and hands has become a visual benchmark in our society in the assessment of a person both socially and professionally.
Fashion continuously changes, and a professional cosmetologist should always stay current to new trends in all facets of the beauty industry.
Some clients cannot, due to health constraints, maintain their own nails; some just prefer to have a knowledgeable professional perform this task for them.
Clients love the relaxation and pampering manicures provide. 4

5. Introduction
Once you have learned the fundamental techniques in this chapter, you will be officially on your way to providing clients with a professional manicure.
A manicure is a cosmetic treatment of the hands involving cutting, shaping, and often painting of the nails, removal of the cuticles, and softening of the skin.
Manicure and pedicure services are currently the fastest-growing services on salon and spa menus.
INTRODUCTION
Once you have learned the fundamental techniques in this chapter, you will be officially on your way to providing clients with a professional manicure.
A manicure is a cosmetic treatment of the hands involving cutting, shaping, and often painting of the nails, removal of the cuticles, and softening of the skin.
Manicure and pedicure services are currently the fastest-growing services on salon and spa menus. 5

6. LESSON ACTIVITY 1
Conduct a discussion among students by asking them if they have ever received a personal service from someone who had dirty fingernails. Perhaps it was a dentist, or optometrist, or food server. Have them discuss how it made them feel. Relate those feelings to the importance of having manicured hands in any line of work, especially as a nail technician. 6

7. Adhere to State Government Regulations
Scope of practice (SOP) – the list of services that you are legally allowed to perform in your specialty in your state.
If you perform services outside these regulations concerning allowable services, you may lose your license.
ADHERE TO STATE GOVERNMENT REGULATIONS
Understand the regulations that are designated by your state.
Know that if you perform services outside these regulations concerning allowable services, you may lose your license. Also, if damages to a client occur while performing an illegal service, you are fully liable, both professionally and personally.
Occupational Safety and Health Administration (commonly referred to as OSHA) also provides guidelines for protecting cosmetologists from chemicals that can affect your health. The main health issue a cosmetologist is prone to is hypersensitivity reactions. 7

8. Work with Nail Technology Tools
Equipment
Implements
Materials
Products
WORK WITH NAIL TECHNOLOGY TOOLS
There are four categories of nail technology tools. 8

9. Equipment Table and lamp Cosmetologist/client’s chairs Finger bowls
Disinfection container
Client arm cushion
Service cushion
Gauze/cotton wipe container
Courtesy of European Touch.
EQUIPMENT
These are permanent items used in cosmetology; they don’t have to be replaced.
Table: Usually includes one or more drawers and is 36 to 48 inches (90 to 120 cm) long and 16 to 21 inches (40 to 52 cm) wide.
Adjustable lamp: The lamp should be adjustable and have a 40- to 60-watt bulb.
Client/technician chair: The technician’s chair should be selected for ergonomics, comfort, durability, resistance to staining, and ease of cleaning. The client chair should be durable and comfortable.
Finger bowls: A finger bowl is used for soaking the client’s fingers in warm water to soften the skin and cuticle.
Disinfection container: It holds disinfection solution in order to immerse clean implements.
Client’s arm cushion: A cushion for the client’s arm.
Service cushion (optional): This should be placed between the client and technician for more comfort.
Gauze and cotton wipe container: Holds clean, absorbent cotton lint-free wipes, or gauze squares for use during the services.
(continues) 9

10. Equipment (continued)
Trash containers
Supply tray
Electric nail polish dryer
UV or LED light
Electric hand/foot mitts
Terry cloth mitts
Paraffin bath
Ventilation System
Courtesy of European Touch.
EQUIPMENT (continued)
Trash containers
Supply tray (optional): Holds professional nail products.
Electric nail polish dryer (optional): Shortens the time necessary for the client’s nail polish to dry.
UV or LED light (optional): These lamps cure or harden products that contain photoinitiators which are designed to be sensitive to the UVA wavelengths the bulbs emit.
Electric hand/foot mitts (optional): Warmth aids in the penetration of conditioning ingredients.
Terry cloth mitts (optional): Used over paraffin to hold in heat.
Paraffin bath (optional): Used for melting paraffin wax to moisturize the skin.
Ventilation system (optional): Products used when performing nail services may contain chemicals that can affect a worker's health. Exposure to nail dust and chemical odors and vapors can affect one's breathing and respiratory health. Proper ventilation should be used in the salon to protect nail technicians from becoming overexposed to vapors and dust. 10

11. Multiuse Implements Metal pusher Nail nipper Tweezers Nail clippers 11
Tools that can be cleaned or disposed of; reusable tools are generally stainless steel. Disposables are for single use only.
Metal pusher: Used to push back excess cuticle. Hold it like a pencil. Improper use can cause microscopic trauma or injury to the tissues, called microtrauma, which is tiny openings in the skin that can allow microbes to enter the skin.
Nail nipper: Used to trim away tags of dead skin. It is never used to trim away eponychium. Hold it in the palm with the blades facing the cuticle. Place the thumb on one handle and three fingers on the other with the index finger on the screw to the guide blade.
Tweezers: Used to lift small bits of debris from the nail plate or remove implements from disinfectant solution.
Nail clippers: Used to shorten nails to reduce filing time. They must be properly disinfected after each use. 11

12. Single-Use Implements
Brushes and applicators
Wooden pusher
Nail brush
Application brush
SINGLE-USE IMPLEMENTS
Disposable implements that are used once on a client and then discarded.
Brushes and applicators: If they cannot be properly cleaned and disinfected after each use, they must be disposed of unless self-disinfecting.
Wooden pusher: For loosening the cuticle; hold it like a pencil. When applying cosmetics, wrap a small piece of cotton around the end.
Nail brush: Used to clean and remove debris from nails and implements.
Application brush: Used to apply nail oils, nail polish, or nail treatments to a client’s nails. 12

13. Materials Gloves Dust mask Abrasive files and buffers
Two-way or three-way buffer
Single-use or terry cloth towels
Gauze, cotton, and pads
Plastic or metal spatulas
Courtesy of purespadirect.com
MATERIALS
Gloves: Personal protective equipment worn to protect the cosmetologist and the client.
Dust mask: Should be a high quality, properly fitted dust mask when transferring chemicals from one container to another or when buffing a nail.
Abrasive files and buffers: Used to shape the free edge of nails. The lower grit abrasives (less than 180 grit), are aggressive and will quickly reduce the thickness of any surface.
Medium grit abrasive (150 to 180 grit) are used to smooth and refine surfaces, and the 180 grit is used to shorten and shape natural nails.
Fine-grit abrasives are those with 240 or higher grit.
Two-way or three-way buffer: Used to buff the nails to a beautiful shine.
Single-use or terry cloth towels: Wash terry towels between clients. Dispose of paper towels.
Gauze, cotton, and pads: Primarily used to remove nail polish.
Plastic or metal spatulas: Used to remove products from containers. 13

14. Professional Nail Products
Soap
Polish remover
Nail creams, lotions, and oils
Cuticle removers
Nail bleach
Colored polish, enamel, lacquer, or varnish
Gel polish
Base coat
PROFESSIONAL NAIL PRODUCTS
Soap: Soap and warm water are used to clean the technician’s and client’s hands. Liquid soaps are recommended. NOTE: Ask students why. (Because bar soaps harbor bacteria and can become a breeding place for pathogens.)
Polish remover: Used to dissolve and remove nail polish; they contain solvents (acetone or ethyl acetate). Acetone is a colorless, inflammable liquid, miscible with water, alcohol, and ether, and has a sweetish odor or burning taste; it is used as a solvent.
Nail creams, lotions, and oils: These are designed to soften dry skin around nail plate and increase the flexibility of natural nails. Nail creams are barrier products because they contain ingredients designed to seal the surface of the skin around the nail and hold in the subdermal moisture in the skin. Nail oils are designed to absorb into the nail plate to increase flexibility and into the surrounding skin to soften and moisturize. Typically, oils have a longer lasting effect than creams.
Cuticle removers: These are designed to loosen and dissolve dead tissue from the nail plate for easy removal.
Nail bleach: Used to remove yellow surface discoloration or stains such as tobacco stains; they contain H2O2 or some other keratin bleaching agent. Use as directed.
Colored polish, enamel, lacquer, or varnish
Gel polish: Form of nail color that lasts 10 to 21 days is a high-demand salon service that addresses the constant smudging clients experience after a manicure.
Base coat: A colorless layer that improves the adhesion of polish; it also prevents staining of the natural nail plate.
(continues) 14

15. Professional Nail Products (continued)
Hardeners
Protein hardener; other types; dimethyl urea hardener
Top coat
Nail polish dryer products
Hand cream or lotion
Nail conditioners
Sunscreens
PROFESSIONAL NAIL PRODUCTS (continued)
Hardener: Used to improve surface hardness or durability of weak or thin nail plates. It helps prevent splitting or peeling of the nail plate.
Protein hardener: Combination of clear polish and protein; it cannot absorb into the nail plate.
Other types: They contain reinforcing fibers such as nylon. They cannot absorb into the nail plate.
Dimethyl urea hardeners: These add cross-links to the natural nail plate. They do not cause adverse skin reactions.
Top coat: Used over polish to prevent chipping and to add shine to the finished nail. The main ingredients are acrylic or cellulose-type film formers.
Nail polish dryer products: Accelerates drying of nail polish.
Hand cream or lotion: These add a finishing touch to the manicure. They soften and smooth the hands and help skin retain moisture.
Nail conditioners: Used to reduce brittleness of the nail plate and moisturize the surrounding skin. Use as directed.
Sunscreens: These protect skin from damage by UVA rays. 15

16. Necessary Components to Perform the Basic Manicure
The basic manicure is the foundation of all nail technology services 16

17. Three-Part Procedure Pre-service – cleaning tools, preparation
Service – step-by-step plan for service
Post-service – caring for client after procedure
THREE-PART PROCEDURE
Pre-service procedure: This is an organized plan for preparing tools, setting up the table, and greeting the client.
See Procedure 25-1, Pre-Service Procedure, found on page 880 of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
Service: Step-by-step procedure for service.
Post-service procedure: Organized plan for caring for the client after the service.
See Procedure 25-2, Post-Service Procedure, found on page 884 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 17

18. Hand Washing
Hand washing prevents the spread of communicable diseases.
Wash hands before and after each client.
Have clients wash hands before service.
Provide clean nail brushes.
Hand sanitizers do not replace hand washing.
HAND WASHING
The technician washes hands before and after each client.
The client must wash hands before the service. 18

19. The Manicure Consultation
Client intake form
Check client's nails and skin
Discuss client preferences, life style
THE MANICURE CONSULTATION
NOTE: Remind students that they can review the 9-Step Consultation Procedure in this chapter on page 868 in the Focus On box.
Use the information on the client intake form to guide you during the client consultation.
Client intake form: Keep the intake form close by throughout the procedure for reference. Look at the forms closely for important responses from the client, and then record your observations after the service on a service record card or in the salon software program at the end of the service.
Check client’s nails and skin: Always check the client’s nails and skin to make sure that they are healthy and that the service you are providing is appropriate.
Discuss client preferences, life style: Discuss the shape, color, and length of nails that your client prefers. Consider client’s lifestyle; such as hobbies, recreational activities, and type of work when determining the best nail shape and length. 19

20. Basic Nail Shapes for Women
Consider the shape of the hands, length of fingers, shape of the cuticle area, hobbies, recreational activities, and type of work the client does.
Square: Straight across with no rounding at the edges; length depends on the client’s preference.
Squoval: Has a square free end with corners rounded off; it extends slightly past fingertip.
Round: Should be slightly tapered and extend just a bit past fingertip; this is most common for males.
Oval: Conservative and attractive.
Pointed: Suited to thin hands with narrow nail beds; they are tapered somewhat longer than usual to enhance the slender appearance of the hand; they are weak and break easily. 20

21. Choosing a Nail Color Complement skin tone. Coordinate with clothing.
Allow client to choose.
CHOOSING A NAIL COLOR
Suggest a shade that compliments skin tone or coordinate with clothing for a special event.
Allow the client to make the final choice. 21

22. Applying Polish Base coat Two coats of polish color Top coat
Thin, even coats to create maximum smoothness and minimum drying time
APPLYING POLISH
This is best achieved with four coats: base coat, two coats of polish color, and a top coat.
Apply thin, even coats to create maximum smoothness and minimum drying time.
See Procedure 25-5, Polishing the Nails, found on page 893 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 22

23. How to Cater to a Man’s Manicure Service
Men’s nail shapes
Men’s massage
Men’s basic color: Clear
Marketing to men
HOW TO CATER TO A MAN'S MANICURE SERVICE
It is the same as a basic manicure except that colored polish is replaced with buffing the nails to a high shine. Also, use a citrus or spice scented hand cream versus a flowering scent.
Men’s nail shapes: Short and rounded is most popular.
Men’s massage: Use more firm finger movements on the palm and longer, firmer slides in effleurage movements.
Men’s basic color: Clear; use a base coat and quick-drying top coat.
Marketing to men: Describe the service and list the benefits. Distribute flyers at gyms and men’s stores. Sell gift certificates to female clients. Schedule a men’s night. 23

24. Complete a Hand and Arm Massage
Promotes blood circulation
Relaxes muscles
Relieves pain
Soothes and relaxes client
COMPLETE A HAND AND ARM MASSAGE
Massage is the manipulation of soft body tissues.
Benefits:
Promotes blood circulation
Relaxes muscles
Relieves pain
Soothes and relaxes client 24

25. General Movements Effleurage – gliding
Pétrissage or kneading – lifting, squeezing
Tapotement – rapid tapping
Vibration – trembling, shaking
Friction – pressing one layer over another
GENERAL MOVEMENTS
Effleurage: A succession of strokes made by gliding the hands over an area with varying degrees of pressure. This movement is used most frequently and should be perfected.
Pétrissage or kneading: Lifting, squeezing, and pressing tissue.
Tapotement: Rapid tapping or striking motion of the hands on the skin.
Vibration: Continuous trembling or shaking movement applied with the hands not breaking contact with the skin.
Friction: Various strokes that manipulate or press one layer of tissue over.
See Procedure 25-4, Hand and Arm Massage, found on page 890 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 25

26. State the Differences Between Spa Manicures and Basic Manicures
Require extensive knowledge of nail care and skin care
Usually include a relaxing massage and exfoliation
May include use of rose oils, paraffin dips, hand masks, and warm, moist towel applications
© bikeriderlondon/ Shutterstock.com
STATE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SPA MANICURES AND BASIC MANICURES
Spa manicures require extensive knowledge of nail care and skin care.
They usually include a relaxing massage and exfoliation.
They may incorporate the use of rose oils.
Additional techniques include paraffin dips, hand masks, and warm, moist towel applications. 26

27. Theme Manicures Contain products to support the theme.
Refreshments might be served to support the theme.
Examples:
Chocolate Wonder Manicure and Pedicure
Pumpkin Fall Festival Manicure and Pedicure
THEME MANICURES
These contain products to support the theme, from lotions to oils to masks.
Refreshments might even be served to support the theme.
Examples include: “Chocolate Wonder Manicure and Pedicure” or “Pumpkin Fall Festival Manicure and Pedicure.” 27

28. LESSON ACTIVITY 2
Put students into teams of three and have them brainstorm for 10 minutes about all the themes they can think of for nail care services. Reward the team with the most ideas at the end of the designated time. 28

29. Waterless Manicures Hands are not soaked in water.
Cuticles are softened with lotion and heated mitts.
WATERLESS MANICURES
Instead of soaking the hands in water, some nail technicians use lotion and heated mitts to soften the cuticles.
See Procedure 25-3, Performing a Basic Manicure, found on page 886 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 29

30. Indicate Why Aromatherapy Is Used During a Nail Service
Involves the use of highly concentrated non-oily and volatile essential oils.
Requires extensive study. Otherwise, only blended oils that are already mixed and tested should be used only as directed.
INDICATE WHY AROMATHERAPY IS USED DURING A NAIL SERVICE
Discovered by Professor Gattefosse, a French scientist, it involves the use of highly concentrated nonoily and volatile essential oils. The practice requires extensive study. Otherwise, only blended oils that are already mixed and tested should be used only as directed. 30

31. Summarize the Benefits of Paraffin Wax Treatments
Paraffin – petroleum-based product that has excellent sealing properties to retain moisture in the skin
Various types of applications
SUMMARIZE THE BENEFITS OF PARAFFIN WAX TREATMENTS
Paraffin wax treatments are designed to trap moisture in the skin while the heat causes skin pores to open and increases blood circulation. Various types of applications include applying to the hands directly, dip paraffin in cheesecloth or paper towel, spray paraffin, and Single-Use Commercial Gloves.
Plastic bag paraffin application: This method would be pouring the paraffin in plastic bags and wrapping each bag around the client’s hands or feet.
Cheesecloth or paper towel paraffin application: This is when cheesecloth or paper towel is dipped into paraffin and wrapped around the hands or feet.
Spray paraffin: In this method, a special machine with replaceable paraffin cartridges is used and sprayed onto the client’s hands or feet.
Single-use commercial gloves: These gloves come with paraffin lined inside the glove and are disposed of after use. 31

32. Outline Nail Art Options for Clients
French manicure
Color fading
Color blocking
Marbleizing
Other nail art
Nail art by Alisha Rimando Botero.
OUTLINE NAIL ART OPTIONS FOR CLIENTS
French manicure: This is where the nail bed is pink, peach, or beige and the tip is white or another color.
Color fading: This is when one color fades into another.
Color blocking: This is when a section of the nail is a different color.
Marbleizing: This is a swirled affect created when combining two or more colors.
Other nail art: You can use embellishments or 3-D applications to create a different type of art. 32

33. Nail Art 33 Nails by Massimiliano Braga.
Nail art by Alisha Rimando Botero.
Nail art by Alisha Rimando Botero. 33

34. Summary and Review
It is important to learn about nail equipment and supplies.
It is important to learn about nail services and the infection control that accompanies them.
If a student would like to continue their nail education, they can learn advanced techniques from their instructor, trade magazines and beauty shows.
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
It is important to learn about nail equipment and supplies.
It is important to learn about nail services and the infection control that accompanies them.
If a student would like to continue their nail education, they can learn advanced techniques from their instructor, trade magazines, and beauty shows. 34

35. Chapter Review Questions
Define scope of practice.
Name the four types of professional nail tools required to perform a manicure.
What is the difference between multiuse and single-use implements? 
What is the three-part procedure, and how is it used in the performance of the basic manicure?
Is a consultation necessary each time a client has a service in the salon? Why?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. Define scope of practice.
Answer: It is the list of services that you are legally allowed to perform in your specialty in your state. 
2. Name the four types of professional nail tools required to perform a manicure.
Answer: Metal pusher, nail nippers, tweezers, and nail clippers. 
3. What is the difference between multiuse and single-use implements?
Answer: Multiuse implements can be cleaned and disinfected; single-use implements are only used once and then discarded. 
4. What is the three-part procedure, and how is it used in the performance of the basic manicure?
Answer: The three-part procedure includes the pre-service, actual procedure, and the post-service. 
5. Is a consultation necessary each time a client has a service in the salon? Why?
Answer: Yes, because medical history or lifestyle could have changed which would reflect the varied use of the client’s hands and condition of nails.
(continues) 35

36. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
Name the basic nail shapes for women.
What is the most popular nail shape for men?
Which massage movement is most appropriate for a hand and arm massage? Why?
What is the difference between a basic manicure and a spa manicure?
How is aromatherapy used in manicuring services?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
6. Name the basic nail shapes for women.
Answer: Nail shapes for women include square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. 
7. What is the most popular nail shape for men?
Answer: Round nails seem to be the most popular shape for men. 
8. Which massage movement is most appropriate for a hand and arm massage? Why?
Answer: Effleurage is the most appropriate movement for a hand and arm massage because it is a succession of strokes that glide over the hand and arm that are very relaxing.
9. What is the difference between a basic manicure and a spa manicure?
Answer: A spa manicure includes more pampering than a basic manicure adding a longer, relaxing massage and some form of exfoliation.
10. How is aromatherapy used in manicuring services?
Answer: Essential oils are inhaled or applied to the skin and used to induce relaxation or invigoration.
(continues) 36

37. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
Explain the use and benefits of paraffin wax in manicuring.
What would be on the manicuring table if it were properly set up?
What are the steps in the post-service procedure?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
11. Explain the use and benefits of paraffin wax in manicuring.
Answer: Paraffin is applied to the skin to trap moisture in the skin while the heat causes skin pores to open to allow deeper penetration of lotions and oils used prior to application.
12. What would be on the manicuring table if it were properly set up?
Answer: The items that would be on the manicuring table would include a clean cloth, abrasives, buffers, trash receptacle, finger bowl, and nail brush.
13. What are the steps in the post-service procedure?
Answer: The steps during the post-service procedure include: discuss home care, have the client schedule his/her next appointment, collect payment, thank them for their business, and record their service information on the service record card and file it away. Afterward, you can prepare your table for your next client by removing everything off the table, and cleaning and disinfecting the implements and table.
(continues) 37

38. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
What are the steps in a basic manicure procedure?
How is nail polish applied properly?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
14. What are the steps in a basic manicure procedure?
Answer: The steps that are performed in a basic manicure include the following: remove polish, shape nails, soften the eponychium and the cuticle, clean nail surface, dry client’s hands, apply cuticle remover, loosen and remove cuticles, clip away loose skin, clean under the free edge, brush off debris, bleach nails (optional), bevel nails, buff nails (optional), apply nail oil, thoroughly cleanse the client’s hands, apply massage lotion or oil, remove traces of lotion or oil, apply polish
How is nail polish applied properly?
Answer: Polish should be applied ⅛ inch away from the cuticle area and it should start at the cuticle and brushed toward the free edge in an even stroke. 38