1. FUNDAMENTALS OF HAIR CUTTING

2. PRINICPLES What is the definition of a principle?
A PRINCIPLE is a fundamental law or assumption about how something works.
Ex: Rules to a game

3. There are 6 principles in hair cutting:
Perspective
Dimension
Distribution of Weight
Elevation
Over-Direction
Body Position
Lets explore each one in depth

4. 1. PERSPECTIVE
Perspective is a technique of drawing a representation of something on a flat surface, so that it appears to have depth and distance.
There are 2 perspective:
Vertical
Horizontal

5. VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL PERSPECTIVE
Consists of the profile, facial features, front, sides and back of the head.
Used to check for balance and symmetry and how high to lift the hair
HORIZONTAL:
Aerial view: shows the shape of the hair cut when all the hair is lifted straight out from the head.
Referred to as a “bird’s eye view”

6. 2. DIMENSION Refers to the properties of an object in terms of Height
Width
Depth
Looking at an object with both vertical and horizontal perspective.
Vertical perspective = height = elevation

7. Horizontal perspective = width = over-direction
Depth = Length of hair
Can be short, medium and long

8. 3. DISTRIBUTION OF WEIGHT
Weight can be distributed upward or downward depending on your elevation.
Weight can also be distributed forward or backward depending on over-direction
Characteristics of hair such as (i) texture and (ii) density of the hair could also effect the distribution of weight.

9. 4. ELEVATION
Elevation is the lifting of hair from its natural fall or position on the head.
Elevation = Distribution of weight upward or downward = Technique
There are 3 techniques:
One Length
Graduation
Layers

10. One Length This technique uses 0 degree or minimal elevation
keeps maximum weight at the bottom of the hair (perimeter).
All lengths finish at the same plane

11. Graduation This technique uses 1°- 89° of elevation builds weight
Hair is longer toward the top with shorter pieces at the bottom.

12. Layers This technique uses 90° and above elevation
removes weight with shorter pieces at the top and longer at the bottom

13. 5. OVER-DIRECTION Over-direction
the moving of the hair from its natural fall
distributing weight side to side as well as forward and backward.
Shape is viewed from a birds eye view.
Over-direction = Distributing Weight Froward or Backward or Evenly = Shape
Distance = Length
There are 3 shapes: Round, Triangular and Square

14. Round This shape is shorter in the front and longer in the back.
Weight is distributed backward
Over-directing the hair forward from its natural position.
Hair cut begins at the front of the head

15. Triangle This shape is longer in the front and shorter in the back
Weight is distributed forward
Over-directing the hair backward from its natural position
Hair cut begins at the back

16. Square This shape appears to have even lengths on all sides
Weight is distributed evenly
Over-directing the hair both forward and backward from its natural position.
Hair cut begins at the flatter parts of the head (sides, back or top)

17. 6. BODY POSITION Upper body Arm and hands
Elevation which controls technique
Elevation = Technique = Upper Body Position
Lower body
Where and how you stand as well as move around the guest.
Controlled by your feet.
How you are using your upper and lower body when cutting hair and moving around the head.
Over-direction = Shape = Lower body position

18. Upper Body Positions
Finger angle: This should mirror your sub-section angle
Cutting Below the Finger: Used for control when cutting a one length below the shoulder. Low elevation

19. Cutting Over the Fingers: Used for greater control when elevating hair in the upper portion of the head.

20. Tension: Amount of pressure used when holding or stretching the hair.
Palm to Palm: For control when working on the lower half of the head. Used with graduation , layering and shorter lengths
Tension: Amount of pressure used when holding or stretching the hair.

21. Lower Body Position First Position
Straight with your feet hip width apart
knees should be slightly bent and your weight centered.
Shoulders should be relaxed and away from your ears.
Stand with the section you are working on in front of you

22. The Lunge Position
Lower your body while keeping your back straight
Lower your perspective to observe the cutting line
Used with one length above the shoulder
Non dominant leg in front with a slight bend at the knee; dominant leg thrust backward with foot turned out slightly
Weight is distributed evenly between both legs

23. Crossover One:
Stand on a diagonal with feet slightly wider than shoulder width apart
Your upper body will be straight
Shoulders should be relaxed and away from your ears
Best position to cut will be to shift your weight to your non-dominant leg bending your knee.

24. Crossover Two:
Shift your non dominate leg across your body so that it is in front of your dominate leg
Stand on a diagonal
Adjust the foot on your dominant leg so that you are balanced, and your weight is distributed evenly

25. The Step:
Maintain consistency on either side of the head
This position is primarily used with longer lengths
One foot remains stationary while the other steps out

26. Distribution of Weight Upward or Downward
How the PRINCIPLES all related
Vertical Perspective =
Technique
Height
Distribution of Weight Upward or Downward
Elevation
Upper Body Position

27. Horizontal Perspective Distribution of Weight Forward or Backward
How the PRINCIPLES all related
Horizontal Perspective =
Shape
Width
Distribution of Weight Forward or Backward
Over-direction
Lower Body Position